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Greg Davis

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Posts posted by Greg Davis

  1. The starboard side is coming along nicely. The new file arrived and let me open the gunports to nearly their final diameter. At this point I attached the gunport wreaths, which are pressed from brass, after they had been chemically blackened. Once that was done, the second half-round molding / wale was added using the wreaths to space the work. Finally, the lower molding was glued leaving a 5mm gap to the one in the middle. 

    StarboardGunportsandHalfRoundsCompleted.jpg.d2128bab1dedb479754156f67c6a4937.jpg

    Just a note - the kit came with 6 pieces of half-round material for the moldings; two pieces were shorter than the others. The short ones are just long enough to be used for the lower molding / wale. I didn't see anything in the instructions pointing this out. I am glad I pulled all 6 pieces from the wood bundle and made the observation before accidentally using a long piece for the lower molding on this side. 

     

    Now to the port side where I have a bit of a problem - it seems that I was provided with 13 gunport wreaths; i.e. 1 short of the needed 14. I've sent an inquiry to Amati asking if they can send me a replacement. I'm not sure how long to wait for a response before having to solve the problem on my own. I'd certainly like all 14 to match exactly but I can see that there is a good possibility that I will need to fashion the missing one myself. 

  2. Jig is done and the main pontoon is ready for the addition of longitudinal stringers. I added a bunch of hooks that let me place rubber bands over the axial dowel. This keeps the hoops snugly in place / aligned on the jig. I've also waxed the top of each support where the stringers will be attached so that there is less of a chance of getting the structure stuck to the supports. I plan on installing the side stringers first. Because of how the supports were fashioned the stringers will lie on top of each support when being attached to the hoops. Once they are in place, the rubber bands will be removed and the pontoon will be turned 90 degrees so that the top and bottom stringers can be added. Slots have been milled into the bottom of the supports to allow for the stringers to slot into when the pontoon is turned. 

    PontoonReadyforStringers.jpg.ea72864fbfb5d9a8d71a3f732cc22450.jpg

    Time to mill some wood!

  3. I've remade hoop No. 16 to my satisfaction. I tried making shavings, but I didn't like the outcome too much. Then I took some of the 0.3mm material I had made previously and thinned it out even more with a spindle sander. I probably got it well below 0.2mm. At this thinness I was successful wrapping it in layers around the form. I also enlarged the holes in the forms that had been 1/8" to 1/4" - now all 16 hoops (with forms) fit nicely on the 1/4" diameter dowel. Here is a picture of hoops 15 and 16 sitting on the pontoon jig.

    Hoops15anbd16.jpg.1eed1201b89ce6c73313fe58f549bdac.jpg

    Just a little more work on the jig and I can start attaching the longitudinal stringers that hold all of the hoops together.

     

     

  4. I've attached the top half-round molding to each side of the hull. Gun port wreaths fit between this molding and a second molding. The instruction booklet shows the second molding being attached next. I've decided to open the gun ports and attach the wreaths before attaching the second molding. I feel that I will have a better chance of having these pieces line up if I work in this order. I could see how I could easily not leave enough space between moldings and not be able to get a wreath in place and/or leaving too much space and then having gaps between the wreaths and moldings.

     

    So here's a look with the 7 starboard gun ports being opened up. I drilled a 1/8th hole and then have been increasing the hole's diameter with round files. There is just a small amount of filing left to do on this side.

    StarboardGunPortsBeingOpened.jpg.9863cdf863334dbd263f605db9f633eb.jpg

  5. 19 hours ago, Jim Lad said:

    Nice to see that this interesting project is still going ahead.

     

    John

    John -

     

    Thanks for your interest! It will certainly get done, sometimes I just have a problem with jumping around on multiple projects at the same time. Some people call it multitasking, but it more likely lack of focus at times. I had built the Santos-Dumont 14bis (because it looked really interesting) as a winter break from milling wood and sanding frames for my L' Invention model. That was not to take a long time, but then I came upon pictures of the No. 18 Hydroplane and making a model of this machine has moved up high on the to do list. I believe that now I am going to be making fairly regular progress on the hydroplane model. It seems that I've figured out how to construct the pontoon and nacelles. I'm now thinking about how to do the metal work that connects these three parts. The metal work for the engine mount looks to be straightforward. Making a nice steering wheel will take some doing and I have a pretty good conjecture on how the steering would have been rigged. That then leaves the last big piece of work - the V16 Antoinette engine. I have two of the Model Airways Antoinette V8 engine kits that I plan to bash into a V16. From what I have been able to uncover, this is pretty much how the Antoinette V16 actually came about. So this is the basic plan of attack on the hydroplane and then back to L' Invention big time.

     

    Greg

     

    P.S. I may also be trying to finish a few other models that were started in the distant past concurrent with this project ... I hope I don't start anything else ... Is there a part of the MSW forum that helps people keep the number of projects manageable? :) 

  6. One more pic for today - a test fit of hoops in the jig. Here 13 of the 16 hoops have been slipped onto a 1/4" dowel. I'll be holding the dowel down using rubber bands at each hoop location when work is being done. As expected, tabs and/or another stabilization method will be necessary to keep the hoops squared to the jig.

    HoopTestFitinJig.jpg.2ef3969cd9d170ab689c60b86ebbbaa2.jpg

  7. Today I've made a good start on the building jig. I made up supports for hoops 1 - 15; I'll deal with one for hoop 16 after it is remade. The supports are made from 1/8" hardboard and are approximately 2" square. First I had made a number of 2" x 4" pieces with a center line along the 4" dimension. I used the midpoint of this line to mark the center of the pontoons axis. I drew semi-circles to match the outside diameters of the hoops using this mark - Two per blank. They were cut in half and then the semicircles were cut on a scroll saw. A little filing and the hoops fit in nicely. Finally the height of the supports were cut to 1 15/16" (measured from the bottom) so that the side stringers can rest on the supports when they are being attached. I need to mill a notch in the bottom of each semi-circle so that the top / bottom stringer will be accommodated for as the pontoon sits in the jig. I will also add a few tabs to insure the hoops stand perpendicular to the building board.

     

    HoopSupports.jpg.36ca8424d609129d352643d9660f78ca.jpg

  8. Finally got up the courage to part off all of the pontoon hoops. 15 out of 16 were successful. Hoop 16, the one with the smallest diameter, was a fail. It turned out that I had not been able to lay up the hoop material tight enough to form the solid hoop. I will need to remake that one using a different technique. I may try thin shavings as Craig suggested earlier. I drilled 1/4" holes in the center blanks for hoops 2 - 14. Numbers 1 and 15 have 1/8" holes, but I think I may be able to open them to 1/4" as well.

    Hoops.jpg.4763f75cf2cdf25dbff9e2e956638ec6.jpg

    Now that I have these hoops made, I can use their outside diameters to begin construction of the pontoon building jig. 

  9. I am now done smoothing the hull. In the previous post, I had smoothed the hull as best possible with paper as fine as 180 grit. I've now gone over the planking with 220 grit sandpaper - this is the finest that I will be using. Here's the starboard side again; not sure if there is any visual difference, but it is now glassy smooth to the touch.

    StarboardPlankingSmoothedEvenMore.jpg.500d6f24718bb0166877cd1a68fc0217.jpg

    One final picture at this stage of the planking from the bottom / aft looking forward.

    SecondPlankingSmoothedandFinished.jpg.7b6ab4fe210c60471cbefe0743af3201.jpg

    I believe the next step will be some painting. I no longer like the current interior red I had chosen. Now I'd like it to be a deeper darker shade. I also need to make some decisions on the amount of coloring that will be used on the exterior. I think that there will be some exterior paint, but not anywhere near the amount shown on the model as presented in the kit. In my mind the planking looks too nice to cover up with paint.

  10. Completed the starboard planking this evening.

    StarboardPlankingFinished.jpg.b8759e09db5aa3376944165b63a36415.jpg

    Everything worked out well - same number of planks on each side!

    SecondPlankingCompleted.jpg.a6466ff2435006284f9ced6ae6476046.jpg 

    Hopefully there will be some nice weather coming this week so that I can sit outside and sand the planking smooth. I prefer to do the major sanding out of the house and with the wind at my back! I don't think it will take very long as I was able to lay the 1mm x 4mm x 80mm planks quite tight to the hull. I would have preferred for the material to be a little more uniform in color; however, the variation is much less noticeable to my eye than it is in the photographs.  

  11. On 3/29/2024 at 3:11 PM, Egilman said:

    Beautiful job on the original configuration of the 14-Bis... So many kits of this built, but no real research into what it actually was when first built...

     

    This has it all....

     

    VERY NICE!!!!!

    Thank you very much for the compliments and all the posts that you made thru the building, they really helped me think about how the project would unfold.

     

    For a machine with such a short 'life', it sure had quite a few configurations. I think that what came out of the build was the middle of the variants - the shortened propeller mount, but not the ailerons. It's certainly not a perfect piece of work and I hope others will see my modeling shortcomings and perhaps get closer to the 'perfect' miniature. Actually, it might make a really good scratch build project, short of the engine most of the build could be accomplished without a great deal of trouble just having the plans. On the other hand, I saw Model Expo selling the model for $99 recently which is not bad for anyone to give it a try!

  12. Today's main task was getting the tail support in place. I got the bamboo supports glued and tied in place. Took a little thinking on how I might clamp the lower ends together in preparation for the skid. Finally placed a washer over the two pieces to hold them in place. They were spot glued with CA. After it was dry, I cut a half round into the joint for the skid to sit in. The kit supplies brass wire for the skid. I think the brass wire is not stiff enough to hold the plane up nicely over time. So I have substituted piano wire for the piece. It is spot glued as of this picture. Next it will be wrapped, along with the lower portion of the bamboo, with thread. Once that is done, A small amount of rigging will be added to support the entire assembly.

     

    TailSkid.jpg.d1b6449369d0c6389b504a0c381813df.jpg

  13. 9 hours ago, George Ramey said:

    I've also had a fail at the fuel tank installation, so much that in repeated attempts I've broken the mounts a couple of times such that after repeated repairs they are to weak to support the tank. Just finished making replacement parts so I'll try your method of installation which makes more sense. Agree with your assessment of the mounts material; the thin plywood seems a poor choice. I'll miss your reports as you finish your model as you have saved me some pitfalls I might have fallen into. Got a display location yet? I've got to relocate my build to my kitchen table when I get to the wing installation as my workbench is too small and more suited to peanut and walnut scale aircraft.

    George -

     

    While plywood doesn't have as much grain problems as if they made them from basswood, they are still more fragile than I like. If the mounts break again, consider remaking them from some styrene. One of the problems I faced installing the mounts at first was that I failed to angle them in enough. But after playing with the brass straps, I think that getting the straps on first is the way to go. Did you notice that the kit supplied mounts have notches for the brass straps - but they seem to have been made on the top of the mounts instead of the bottom (where I think they should have been)?

    FuelTankMount.jpg.ac9899c20a37ac391533a43b8e8adc7d.jpg

    I've got the display down to two possible locations in my workroom - either on the wall behind my computer desk or hanging in one of the corners of the room. My wife says there is a corner of the family room that it could go in if I want!

     

    As soon as the wings were attached, the model got BIG. I am also having some issues with the final assembly because of that.

     

    If I happen to get done before you, feel free to continue to post questions. I'll be checking periodically. Otherwise, you can just message me via MSW.

     

    Greg

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