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marktiedens

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Everything posted by marktiedens

  1. Thanks Greg - Yes,Pete did send me a detailed description,but I opted to simplify it somewhat. I can always change it again later if I feel the need to. Mark
  2. Another small update - I decided to re-do the rudder chains. I removed the ropes attached to the rudder & used chains with rope pendants instead. It`s a simplified version,but I think it will do. Mark
  3. Update - after a bit of a break,I finally got the bowsprit pre-rigged with the necessary blocks & sprit topmast shrouds. Mark
  4. Hi Ken - nice progress. For some reason I can`t see the pictures in post #50. Anyone else able to see them? The pictures in post #51 look fine. Mark
  5. Can`t speak for holly or maple,but I bleached my walnut deck planks & they came out a nice light gray & didn`t seem to hurt the wood any. Mark
  6. Hi Mr.Pucko - you are off to a good start. I couldn`t help but notice the templates have the gun ports parallel to the frames. I am pretty sure they should be parallel to the planking & wales. If you look at a picture of the real ship in the museum you will see what I mean. I drew some lines on your picture to show you what I mean. It seems that none of the kit makers can get things right even though they have the real ship to look at. Just an observation. Mark
  7. Hi Ken - before gluing the middle gun deck in place I dry fitted all the upper decks at the stern & made sure the holes for the mizzen mast lined up. Then with the mizzen mast in place I made a step for it on the lower gun deck. You can either use long strips or individual blocks for the dummy guns,whichever is easier for you. Whichever way you go,make them plenty wide & tall to give you a lot of leeway for positioning the gun ports. My middle row of gun ports is a little too low,which made everything at the bow a little off. I would say the middle gun deck could then be glued in place. Refer to Pete`s info too - he may have different thoughts than me. Mark
  8. Hi Ken - welcome to the Royal William club. This is a challenging build,but from the looks of your past build you should do very well. If you run into any snags,don`t hesitate to contact Pete(piratepete007). He wrote the interpretive info on Euromodel`s web site & is very helpful - been a great help to me. Mark
  9. Thanks Greg,much appreciated.Thanks also for everyone looking in & hitting the like button. My rigging skills are not the greatest,so we`ll see how that goes. Mark
  10. Hi Scott - you are doing a fine job with this kit. I built it many years ago. One thing I noticed when I built mine was the bottom row of dummy gun barrels stuck out way too far. I didn`t notice it until they were all glued in place - I should have shortened them or got shorter gun barrels. You might want to test fit them & see what you think. Mark
  11. A small update - all the yards are now built. Next I will be adding the necessary blocks & ropes to the masts & yards before permanently mounting them to the ship. Mark
  12. Greg - no problem with the language differences. I have more problems with some of my fellow Americans who can`t write a coherent sentence. Thanks Keith. Mark
  13. Thanks for your hard work Pete. I am still finishing up the yard assemblies,so it won`t be too much longer before I start the actual rigging. Mark
  14. Thanks Greg - although the pictures don`t show it well,there is quite a difference (cheap camera,artificial lighting,poor camera skills,etc.,etc. Mark
  15. Well,after spending the better part of the day applying a wash to all those gold decorations,I think there is a real improvement to them. The first picture is before & the next three are after applying the wash. They actually look better in person than my cheapo camera shows. Mark
  16. Thanks everyone for your opinions & suggestions - I will be heading out to the local hobby shop shortly to get some of the Vallejo washes & see how it goes. I agree that the decorations are a bit too "fresh" looking & hard to see the details. Mark
  17. Keith - I am still tweaking things,so a black wash is not out of the question - it can be applied at any time. Pete - my reason for using gloss black is that glass is very reflective. I may tone it down with a coat of clear semi-gloss to see how that looks. Mark
  18. Well,I decided I didn`t like them either,so I pulled them off & painted the panes black. A ship in port with no sails set would probably not have the lanterns lit anyway. The liquid glass I used never did dry right & looked a bit foggy. Mark
  19. Hi Michael - the lantern glass is not painted. I painted the interior of the lanterns yellow with a touch of red to try & simulate a flame & filled the panes with liquid glass. what you see through the "glass" is the painted center of the lantern. Unfortunately,it did not turn out as I hoped it would. I may still try & do something with them,though. Mark
  20. Don & Greg - thanks very much! Also thanks to everyone looking in & hitting the like button. Mark
  21. Thanks Frank! It was a lot of work to fit all those castings,but I think it came out pretty good. It also helped that the castings are very nicely detailed. I must say,though,that it would not have turned out half as good without Pete`s (piratepete007) guidance. Mark
  22. A small update - decided I might as well mount the stern lanterns,so I made some side braces from some .8mm brass rod & glued them all in place. Next ,I cut & shaped all the stunsail yards. The stunsail irons were made from some brass & copper tubing & they were fitted on the stunsail yard with .8mm brass rod. I made caps for the end of the yard out of thin copper strip. They were attached at a 45 degree angle from the center of the yard I only have the fore topsail yard completed,so 3 more to go. The irons around the yard was made from black card stock. Mark
  23. Congratulations - & well deserved! Mark
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