Desertanimal

OK that’s all she wrote. She is complete. The rope hanks gave me a little trouble but just like everything else, they started to look a little better as I went. It’s been quite the journey. I started the build on November 28, 2024. So almost 7 months on her. I’m very happy how she turned out and now I need to build a case. The next build will by Cheerful from Syren. I purchased the last one. It arrived a couple of days ago. It’s been sitting in the shipyard, unopened acclimating to 8% humidity. HAHA Thanks for the likes and following along. I appreciate all the encouragement as it really helps to stay on task. Now on to the photos! Here is how it all began… Now, this is what we have. I’ve really enjoyed the kit. It’s no wonder so many people point to Vanguard as a top notch kit. I also could not have done it without following along what other builders have done. So thank you to all that post their build logs. They are troublesome at times but they sure do help us new guys. Thanks for following along and let me know what you think. Chris

Personally I wouldn’t get involved with mixing pigments. That can be a rabbit hole of epic proportions. “ Let’s add a little of this, oh too much. Let’s add this to tone down that color….” Then you make mud. Been there. Unless you are trying to match a specific historical color for accuracy and such, I would think you can find a consumer product that will meet your expectations. Danish oils have a myriad of colors. You could get adhesion problems later if you need to glue something that’s been oiled. Shellac is tried and true. There are shades and it’s compatible with anything and everything. You can top coat it, leave it. Buff it to a shine, steel wool it to a satin finish on and on and on. How dark are you trying to go? I need to go read the original question. Hahaha ok did that… You can shellac, light sand to remove fuzz then paint. Sanding sealer is a weird product. It’s sort of s made up name. As you’ve found it’s hard to pin down. Usually it is just a lacquer spray that can then be sanded and topcoat applied. (Just like if you buy simply lacquer spray!) You can paint over either one. Sanding sealer is usually a spray. Shellac is a better choice in my opinion. Chris

The only real way to find what looks good is to do some tests. In full size woodworking we’ll always have tests with and without sealer, toner, stain etc. all with various topcoats. If that’s what we’re trying. Though topcoats don’t change much. A golden shellac might look nice. Could give a warm color like wipe on poly can do. Chris

Daniel, the amount of research you do never ceases to amaze. The ship is looking great. Chris

I’ve been using the Syren machine for a few months now and it works great. You can check my latest build log of my alert. I’ve been using it pretty extensively. With that said I’m thinking of scratch building one because I would much rather have a motor on it. Chris

I’m really coming up to the end of the build. Time to work on the anchors. As many do, I also decided to make the tops from scrap pear cutoffs. Used the kit supplied black paper as the bands and fishing line for the nails. Then some WOP. The printed parts needed a little cleanup. Then paint and a little dry brushing. Now let’s scratch build some anchor buoys! One of the hard parts was getting the second one to match. Haha. Then some shrink tubing for bands. I didn’t shrink it. I glued it in place. Then the basket sort of thing around it. I served a bunch of .35mm line. Then glued and served 16 tiny eyes. Assembling these little things was a chore. I could have used another hand that had 6 fingers. I was a little disappointed when I coated them in very watered down matt medium and it darkened the ropes so it decreased the contrast and made that part a little harder to see. Still pretty happy as a first try. Put it all together with the rope loops and mounted it to the ratlines. Lashed the anchors and that part is done! So the only things left now are rope hanks and some touch up work. I’ve made a few hanks and we’ll just say I’m looking forward to more practice. Thanks for checking in! Chris

Still working on rigging. Just following along other builds at this point as I’m completely out of my element. Working on the backstays… I needed to remake the band for the bowsprit. This one is much stronger. Bowsprit stays(?) and catfalls… It seems that I have just been working along and have neglected to take many photos. I’ll need to slow down and remember to take more as we’re coming to the end. Still need to make anchors, maybe anchor buoys, rope hanks and touchups. Thanks for following along! Chris

Wonderful work. That is certainly a build to be proud of. Excellent! Chris

Get well soon! Had them. Had to have a lithotripsy to break one up, 6x9 mm. Felt like I’d gone 12 rounds with a mediocre boxer! Get lots of rest. Chris

Beautiful work. I’m sure the family will now proudly display her and have fond memories of their father. Chris

Moving right along we’re continuing with rigging and now it’s time to raise the gaff and the boom. I had to first make some seized blocks to hang stiff on. Again, these had to be served on the mast, not fun. Luckily I can tilt my vise and lean the ship over which helps. Here are the tackles for the gaff. And the boom.. I had to relocate the cleat on the boom. Time for the ratlines. First time for me and I’ve been putting them off long enough. I used a method I saw @mtbediz post on another log. That is to use two small boards and clamp the shrouds to keep them from moving. Worked pretty well for me. I will not be taking pictures against any graph paper anytime soon either. Made a traveler for the bowsprit. Again following @Thukydides log I decided to make the blocks for the spreadsail yard sheet the same way. Make some tiny eyelets and then bind them around the yard with rose lashings. Here are the pictures. Raised the squaresail yard and the topsail yard. Couldn’t bring myself to try the rose lashings up here. I don’t think I have the thread needed. It’s getting really tiny! Starting to get really crowded up here! I’m really still on the fence with rigging; I’m not sure if it was designed by the devil or if it’s fun. It’s not easy to do, added to the fact that I could have made things easier with more planning and it can be quite confusing. It sure does add a look to the model that can’t be beat though. And a final glamor shot of how she sits… She’s really starting to come together. Thank you all for checking out my log. Chris

Did you use anything to darken the seams? Chris

So to clarify and follow up a couple of things. First I stated I hadn’t heard back from them. It looks like my fat fingers typed my email wrong on the contact form. So that’s all on me. He has now contacted me through text as my phone was smart enough to put in my correct number on the contact form. Second it seems purely to be UPS charging these fees with no prior notification that you’ll be subject to these fees. Not good on UPS. The seller paid the fees so my products will be delivered for my expected price. Chris

As a follow up, I just tracked the shipment and now it says “the fees on this shipment have been paid”. There is a little information “i” that looks clickable for more info but it doesn’t click. Do for now it looks like there will be no additional charges. Still no reply from seller.

I’m not very versed in lasers but the main thing is the thickness of material. After you know that, you can look at machines that can cut it squarely. Underpowered machines will wander vertically in the cut. You may find machines that can cut the thickness of material you want to cut will be expensive. You might want to consider farming out the work, hopefully locally. That way you don’t have to maintain the machine. Just pick up you cut material from the guy that has the giant, fast machine you wouldn’t want to afford. Chris

She looks amazing. Beautiful work. Chris

I am not able to find a breakdown of the extra charges. I’ve also emailed the company but no reply yet.

I was unaware of those facts. Simply never gave a Canadian company a second thought. I’ll be using some printed blocks I’ve heard about 😉 for the next build. But I’m mid-build and need them to match. Chris

I placed an order last week at Dry Dock models for some blocks and things. They are in Canada, I’m in the US. I spent about $35. It was shipped UPS so I was just tracking it to see when I can expect it. There is a notice that there is a balance due. Click here to pay…. $61 in tariffs. That is a problem. 😡😡 Chris

I agree with Chris. Too tight that way.

The first planking is the dressed rehearsal for the second layer of planking. Once you are sufficiently adept at bending the planks fit the fit layer you will just fine tune that fit the second layer. You want the planks to sit in position without having to push or pull the hold them in position. Once the dry fit looks good use a few drops of medium CA glue and you’re off to the races!! I would say to look at several build logs to get what I mean. looking good! Chris

Thanks for the likes! Time to work on the backstays. Seems there are not only many ways to do it, there is no consensus on how it was done on Alert. So again I default to those who have gone before and did them as @Thukydides and @Blue Ensign, I had purchased some violin blocks but they were way too small. So I needed to make my own. I also needed to lash up some blocks with hooks and the circle thing. Is that called a thimble? And here is the result of the backstays. Next I made the mouses for the main stays. I guess I didn’t take a finished photo of them… Here is the tackles up front. I was really itching to play around with the anchor ropes. I got cable laid rope and it looks so cool I just couldn’t resist at least getting an idea of how I wanted it to lay. This isn’t the final position but I was getting ideas. Lashing these together was a chore with so much stuff in the way. Thanks for checking out my build. I appreciate all of you guys! Chris

Truly impressive work Keith! Nicely done.

Thanks to everyone still hanging on. Work has been slowly progressing. OK time to work on the shrouds. I used some bent paperclip wire to make a jig to hold the deadeyes at a consistent distance. Then I put a dab of CA at the bottom of the deadeye. Then I used a sewing machine needle to pull the tiny thread under the crossed ropes. I think I did it four times. Finish with a dab of CA then a quick wipe with a finger. Then pull the end up and finish the seizings. Then I tied on some shroud cleats from Syren. Looking at the photos now I’m thinking I should have spent some more time sanding them and giving them a little more roundness to their shape. I must have thought they looked good enough at the time. Then on to the tackles. These were a little fiddly to work through but I think the end result is very rewarding. It adds a great look to the boat. This is my first time doing them. I am pretty happy with how they look. I experimented with a few ways to tie them off. I looked at build logs and the Peterson book Rigging Period Ship Models. I completed one by itself. Once I was satisfied I did the rest all at the same time to keep them looking consistent. A few times it looked like a tangled mess, but it turned out ok. Slow and steady is always the answer for me, although sometime I forget the question… Thanks for checking out my build. I’d love to hear what you think! Next up is the conundrum of the backstays! Chris

This is exactly what I do. Of course I pretty much have zero humidity in the air.