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biltut

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Everything posted by biltut

  1. I agree with everything said about the quality and working abilities of Apple. Fortunately, I live in the middle of Apple orchard country and find it easy to obtain when the are pruning their trees. Then some wax and a few years of drying and you will have some nice apple at no charge. A little off subject, but also have had some good luck with dogwood which is fairly prevalent in my area.
  2. John, This may not be correct, but I always leave my deadeye lanyards not secured so I can tighten up later after some of the other rigging has messed it up. I always just leave it tight enough to not pull the other rigging askew and then use the shrouds to balance everything. The tension , of course , should be equal on all shrouds. I have had too many times when something has pulled one shroud off and I had to go back in and tighten the lanyard when I had already secured it and trimmed it. The ratlines really should not cause any sagging in the shrouds if tied properly. Good luck!
  3. I would never tackle rounding a mast or any other spar anyway other than by hand with a small plane, taking successively tapered sections by hand although I know many use the lathe practice successfully. As an owner of a number of different lathes, if I had it to do all over again, I would choose the Sherline, as you can add to this as your skills develop and they are a great company making a great product. Good luck with your search. Taig also makes a nice tool, a little less expensive and there are Unimat 3's available sometimes on E-Bay but usually over priced. I wouldn't consider any Unimat other than the 3 or the earlier SL.
  4. I realize I am late in mentioning this but have not been on the website for a couple of weeks due to a hospital visit. I like many others that have mentioned this above, have been a sucker for every saw produced looking for one with some degree of accuracy. Like everyone else has reiterated this have finally been solved with the Bryrnes Saw. I did however fail to see you mentioning the Preac which I used for many years prior to the production of the "Jim" Saw. This is a great little saw with a lot of capabilities. I have no idea how available they are now or how they are priced but sooner or later everything shows up on E-Bay and this is one great little saw. I still use mine to supplement the Brynes Saw. Just thought I should mention this.
  5. I would watch E-Bay for a used Starrett. I own a few of these and they very accurate. Probably run around the same price as the Tamiya Richmond has mentioned. Good luck I just hate the cheap ones being made now, as it seems none of them are centered
  6. Jack, This is a great product and appears to take up very little space. I do a lot of painting in my driveway and the west wind whips through there constantly. I will be shopping for one of these today. Thanks for bringing this to my attention.
  7. Welcome Rich, Another great book that I used to construct small boats for a whaling ship is To Build a Whaleboat: Historical Notes and a Modelmaker's Guide Hardcover by Erik Ronnberg. I think this is available on Amazon for less than $15.00, This is an excellent book by an excellent modelmaker. Good Luck!
  8. I will chime in with more positive comments on the Treenail cutter. I bought mine years ago and still use it. Checked their website again to see if replacement cutters were available and noticed they have discontinued the cutter and only limited replacement parts are available. As mentioned above it jams up and is difficult sometimes to clear but a quality product. When cutting treenails with it I find that boxwood is the best wood. In summary, I would not hesitate to purchase any of their products.
  9. Excellent advice from Chris, Never use CA on rigging anywhere except to treat the end of your rigging to stiffen it when you thread it through a block or other small hole. I built kits years ago using CA and it has since crumbled or destroyed many of the knots where I employed it. In those past years, it was recommended by many but it hadn't been time tested. Diluted PVA glue is perfect for the job and the clove hitches are very easy to do.
  10. John, 

     

    Was just looking through some posts and saw that one of your builds was the Dorothy.  I have always thought I would like to tackle that someday and have all of the books that I know of on the Dorothy but no plans.  Did you obtain a nice set of plans for this? 

     

    I am located in Roanoke but was very close to some of your members in the past, both of which are now gone.  Marvin Bryant and Tom Tragle.  Did you know these folks?

     

     

    Thanks,

    Bill

    1. Show previous comments  1 more
    2. biltut

      biltut

      John,

       

      I thought I sent you an e-mail regarding this after finding the reply this weekend but who knows? I may have failed to send it.  Marvin and Tom were both close friends and I used to visit with Marvin when he went to see his daugher at Radford College.  Tom was a great help to me in my early years of modelmaking encouraging me to build from scratch.

       

      I am impressed with your Dorothy and would love to have more info and pictures of your progress if available.  I would also be interested in copies of the plans.  I assume this was bread and butter construction.  I would gladly pay for any charges to reproduce the plans.  I have searched high and low for more info on this and have accumulated some of the publications but no success with any plans.  

       

      I hope this e-mail reaches you, I have no idea what happened to the last one I sent you.  I have been a member of this group for years but not much of a participant and I am lacking in some of the technical skills on this group.  Sorry for the long winded reply.

    3. John Cheevers

      John Cheevers

      Bill,

      I saw your email yesterday. I am about a week from finishing the model--delivery is Friday 7/19. The model hull is bread and butter and carved 35 years ago or so. The deck house is one piece of pine which I did as an experiment in shaping wood in 3 dimensions. the rest is standard scratch construction. All scratch except the ports, the prop, and the sheaves.

       

      I have a set of plans in 1/4"=1' scale which you are welcome to. 

      John

      087 a.jpg

    4. biltut

      biltut

      John,

       

      Thanks for the quick reply.  Didn't mean to badger you over this but couldn't find evidence of my last e-mail.  Get back to me when you have a few minutes and I will give you an address for the plans and any other info you have available.  Anxious to see the final results, looks like a retirement gift and should be very well appreciated.  

       

      Bill

  11. I will second the comments above and add the suggestion to keep an extra bottle of thinner available while spraying to clean the brush between sprays, for instance when you stop for a few moments to rearrange your parts. Even for a couple minutes I will run a quick cleaning spray of thinner through to prevent gumming up. It doesn't take but a second or two for these fine needles to clog. Good Luck! The produce a beautiful finish.
  12. Yeah, the diameter varies with the cheaper drill bits and then when I get to checking it, I even find the 61-80 gauges seem to vary, again with the exception of Starrett. You are right it doesn't really affect our modeling needs but I guess I am just running out of patience as an "old guy" when tolerances even on the less expensive stuff were much closer. It certainly isn't just limited to tooling, you can't even buy a coat or pair of shoes without some discrepancy in the sizes. I guess my tolerance levels just need some adjusting .
  13. I have suffered through this problem for years. I acquired an excellent set made by the J. I. Morris Co. in the US many years ago and purchased extra taps to cover breakage. They only had the four sizes 00-90,0-80,1-72 and 2-56. Also had a Japanese set that was much smaller but have no idea where I got that set and haven't seen any of those available anywhere. I searched to see if Morris was still carrying them and they don't appear available on their website but a search disclosed the following: https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/morris-miniature-tap-die-set-481307855 This is like my set and these are very high quality. My suggestion would be to watch E-Bay as suggested in the above listing. All of this other stuff is about the equivalent of small numbered drill sizes and the chinese drill guages. You just can't count on the sizes of these drill bits unless you get the very high quality and the Starrett drill gauges seem to me to be the only accurate ones.
  14. I will second Bob's comments. The Dumont tweezers are beyond compare. You can keep them sharpened on a stone when necessary and every time I buy one of the cheaper versions I am always disappointed. They can be bought on ebay for fairly competitive prices. Bob Cleek also mentioned the Proportional Dividers with rack and pinion which are also available on ebay for very reasonable prices at times. I find myself reaching for these constantly to transfer dimensions for different plans which are not drawn to the same scale.
  15. Great Job!!!! Makes me ashamed of myself for buying one. May still go back and try to duplicate the beautiful machine you made.
  16. I will reaffirm comments made by John Allen and Mark. I have been building model ships for over 40 years and used CA glue exclusively on rigging for the first 25 years or so. The I began to see articles written by some of the professional model makers warning about the long term affects of using CA. Brittleness, shiny look and breaking. Over the years, I have many of these knots on previously built models that need repair. The only time I use CA on rigging is to straighten the ends when having problems getting the line through holes and when mounting difficult to reach eyebolts in various locations. I use diluted Hide Glue or diluted white glue as mentioned above on all rigging.
  17. I have to agree with Cliff Ward. The Cameron Drill Press is wonderful. I, too, have had mine for over 40 years and it is a great accurate machine. Coupled with the little x-y table you can do just about anything. I like mine so much that I picked up another on E-Bay last year for my second home and workshop. Once again as Cliff said it is not cheap but it will last a lifetime. The manual 164 is the one that I have. Didn't check the current price but watch E-Bay as they show up every now and then. http://cameronmicrodrillpress.com/product/cameron-series-164/
  18. Ben, Many thanks for posting this....was not aware that it is available. Just ordered one!
  19. Danny, Thanks for the quick reply. They certainly are more handsome than the black ones that are accompany the DRO's now. From the photos of the lathe it sure looks like you have a nicely set up shop. Are there any other pictures on the Forum of other areas of your workspace. Since I got the DRO I am thinking about building a small stand with a drawer in it for my lathe. And then I will probably want to do the same thing with my Mill. This kinda stuff gets out of control for me and is the main cause of my models taking so long to finish. I will start out with ideas of something simple, then it progresses to hand cut dovetails and so on. From the looks of what I have seen of your shop, you suffer from some of the same issues.
  20. MIKE/DANNY: I got the DRO set up on my mill and liked it so much I bought another unit without the display for my lathe. Danny you have a really neat set up on yours. Did the encoders come with the red handwheels when you bought yours, or did you fashion them somehow later. I really hated to give up my Adjustable-Zero red handwheels but the DRO comes with some generic looking black wheels.
  21. This Sherline DRO is on sale this month at Sherline for anyone that is interested. Usual disclaimer, no connection but just purchased one.
  22. Cliff, Not trying to answer for Druxey but I usually split the bamboo down to a smaller size with a scalpel or xacto and then begin to pull through the drawplate.
  23. Fellow Modelmakers, I am bringing this subject back to life for two reasons. First of all to thank Druxey for his original post of introduction to Mihail Kirsanov and his fine chisels as well as Vossiwulf for the pictures and review that he posted. Secondly, to let everyone know that these are available again for anyone interested. After reading the original posts, I contacted Michael and attempted to order a set of these only to find that he was out of town and would not be producing them until October of this year. By some stroke of luck, my feeble mind recalled this information and I contacted him in October and ordered a set. As previously noted by others, the order from Russia was painless, paid with PayPal and received the chisels within 16-20 days of shipping. I do not want to bore you folks with a reiteration of the past posts but these chisels are beautiful and far superior to anything I have seen offered anywhere else. I have seen pictures of his model work and he is also a fine modelmaker as you would expect. As mentioned before, there will be a learning curve on sharpening but Michael provides instructions for this by e-mail. Druxey has previously offered to provide his contact info if interested and I will do the same by PM. I would also remind you as stated in the previous e-mails that Mihail does not speak English so you will have to use some form of translation software. I found Google to be very easy to use.
  24. Derek, Take a look at the Articles Database section of this forum, under Materials and Tools. Phil Krol's Ropewalk is listed here. Very well written with a great deal of details. I built one of these years ago and it works beautifully. I used an old belt driven dental motor for power. These can be found on E-Bay at a reasonable price and most of them have the option to reverse the motor. If this interests you and I can be of any further help let me know.
  25. Bill, Always heard to stay away from tea, even diluted, will deteriorate over time. Mark mentioned this earlier in this thread.

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