yvesvidal
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Everything posted by yvesvidal
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4) At this stage and since the Main Rail Heads are in place, we can finish the Forecastle with all its intricacies: You will notice that I fabricated a "scroll" with a piece of boxwood, connected that scroll to the tip of the main bracket and to the two main rails. The assembly is now very sturdy, decent and provides the "headrest" shape for the Figurehead, that we see on the original model. Yves
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3) It is time to worry about the Knightheads, securing the bowsprit. In the kit, these are placed on top of the gratings, which does not make any sense and is not at all realistic. The knightheads are part of the hull framing and must be strong to fulfill their role. I used a piece of cherry of 3 mm thick and glued it strongly to the bow assembly: This gives me more surface and and a good anchors to glue the knightheads. These are filed to accomodate the diameter and orientation of the bowsprit: I know they are still hanging in the air, but that is the best I could do with this kit. Et voila. I am feeling a lot better, now that this delicate assembly is behind me. Yves
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2) Second part of the bow assembly: the rails !!! I really suffered to come up with something decent. I think I partially succeeded in the following way: Above are the main rails, which are a continuation of the Main rail heads. These are carved by CAF Model and I have to say they did a very good job. First, we need to install the Heads after making sure that the entire head + rail fits correctly, all the way to the scroll. The section where the Head will be installed is shown below: The Head is then glued. For most of this delicate tasks, CA glues of various viscosity are your best friends. Then the main rail is glued only on the side of the Head (lower portion): This gives a tiny bit of flexibility to install the lower and middle rails as well as the head and cross beams. That is the really delicate part of the assembly. We do the same on the other side, which is a lot easier once we have a technique. The main rail is still "floating" near the scroll. Yves
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A few more progress on the bow. I have to say that this was probably one of the most delicate and difficult tasks of the entire kit. I am so happy that it is behind me.... And of course, the instructions are not really there to help you. I know CAF Model rates this kit as MASTER.... I am not a MASTER and thus I suffer a lot. Here is how I I did it: 1) first the assembly of the roundhouses. The kit calls for two pieces of plywood to be used for the curved walls. Nonsense ! Maybe in China they bend plywood in warm water, but on this side of the lake, it does not work. Instead I used the 0.5 mm x 8 mm planks and cut them in two or three pieces. They are then painted and glued to the front bulkhead: Yes, the holes are there....hard to see, but the excrement can be evacuated to the sea. After that, it is time to install all the ornamentation and trims: And some decals.... Below, I made a big mistake (I was trying to follow the CAF Model instructions and pictures): the lion and horse are installed way too low: These two decals should be pushed as much as possible to the top. They will be partially covered by the rails, later on.... Argh !!! One of many mistakes... Yves
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Now, you need to place that chain into warm grease and lubricate it. I still remember the screams of my mother, when my brother and I were using her pans to grease the chains of our mopeds, on the kitchen stove. 🙂 Yves
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Beautiful work. Very inspiring. Yves
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Very interesting design and technology for an XVIII century vessel. It must have taken some strong arms, to lift these keels up.... Chris, if you are looking for unusual ships to model, there is a guy on that French forum who is building the vessel (Le Louxor) that was used to carry the Egyptian Obelisk all the way to France: https://www.laroyale-modelisme.net/t28885-allege-le-louqsor-partie-1-scratch-1-50-de-jm-mai33 That would do a very unique vessel and could offer a fantastic diorama depicting the loading (or unloading) of the Obelisk. Yves
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Ras, you are on the right path. Replacing the plastic spokes on a model by insects pins (or what was provided in the kit) is the right thing to do for ultimate realism. It is a lot more work but the final result will be outstanding. Yves
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I have a question for the experts: The stove is usually crowned by an angled chimney stack, protruding on the forecastle. I am wondering about the orientation of that stack. I am assuming that since these large ships were traveling rear wind most of the times, it would make sense to point the egress side of the stack towards the bow. This way, the smoke would fly away and not stink up the ship. Is my reasoning correct? Yves
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I have done spokes and chains at the scale of 1/6th. I admire your patience and tenacity, despite the incredible tool that the Tamiya designers created for that purpose. Yves
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This is on the border of insanity.... I admire your patience Craig. Yves
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Yes, the dark blue looks better in my humble opinion. I used Ultramarine Blue on my Bellona: Yves
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It is always nice to compare models at the same scale. Yves
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Yes, it will not be an easy task. But the sentimental value will give you dedication and fuel to restore these models. Yves
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Fantastic subject. What a beautiful yacht. Yves
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Another Contest winner in the making..... 🙂 Yves
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Personally, I like the lighter blue better, similar to what the artist Romain Hugault used for his superb Bandes Dessinees: Yves
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Great choice for a fantastic plane. Yves
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I realized that I have not provided an update in a long time. Most of the time has been spent doing non-related model building activities and trying to replicate on the starboard side, what was done on the port side, during a previous post: Overall, a lot of the same thing.... The quarterdeck is now complete with all the guns in place: Decals are delicately set along the side of the hull: As usual the hull is prepared with multiple coats of Future Floor Gloss. Then the decals are installed with SOL (by Micro-scale), followed by one or more applications of SET (also by Micro-scale) ...or is it the other way around....SET and then SOL....and finally sealed with multiple coats of Future Floor Gloss. I like the glossy results but if I get tired of it, a coat of mate clearcoat can always be added, to tone down the numerous paintings done on the hull. A few more pictures.... With the exception of the railing on each side and rear of the poop deck, the stern is pretty much complete. At that stage, I need to now shift my focus and work, on the bow: Yves
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Beautiful hull and gorgeous scenery from your deck. Yves
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Absolutely stunning model. Congratulations. Knowing the predisposition of Japanese sailors to absolute and immaculate cleanliness of their ships, I doubt that Mikasa was ever so weathered. Your model is incredible and the weathering is superb. Yves
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Beautiful carvings in Sculpey. It is looking very majestic. By the way, why do they call it a 74 guns ship? Mine only has 72.... I must be missing some carronades on the forecastle. Yves
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I love your Emma C Berry with full sails. It truly changes the look of that little fishing boat. Yves
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Another impressive project. Yves
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