yvesvidal
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Everything posted by yvesvidal
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A few pictures of the model on its display stand: It has some majesty and fills up the place quite well. Yves
- 321 replies
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Yes, being artistic and loving beauty is in their DNA. Yves
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Will you be showing the meshed nets to protect the hull from torpedoes, deployed? What kind of Pontos PE kit did you get? Yves
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The stern planking has been completed: Now, it is time to move to the copper tiles... I am quite apprehensive about it. Yves
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These maple strips are 0.4 mm thick x 8 mm wide. You cut them like paper with a pair of scissors. Yves
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Third quadrant, at the stern: These maple wood strips are interesting. They are extremely flexible, allowing you to espouse pretty much all shapes, which comes handy at the stern. In addition, after gluing them, especially when using Titebond Quick glue, the wood need to be "burnished" to embrace the exact shapes of the support. It is like burnishing a thin sheet of copper and is very unusual in the way it reacts. I am using an ice cream stick to do all the burnishing. The wood of the stick is hard and smooth and does not damage the thin planking. Multiple coats of Wipe-On-Poly have been applied and the stern is now hard and extremely smooth to the touch. The blue color is Cerulean Blue by Liquitex (Acrylic) and that is the color I like the most after trying about 4 other Royal blues, and other blues from Model Shipways and Tamiya. I find the traditional Royal blues way too dark for my taste. On top of that blue, various decals will be applied, since the freezes on these vessels were painted and not carved. Yves
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You could add two small bands of sea at each end and try to blend the seams with your existing piece of ocean. Yves
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The second Planking of the bow is now completed. The wood has been covered with multiple coats of Wipe-On-Poly and is hard and smooth to the touch. Now, to the stern..... It will not be so easy.... Yves
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Beautiful. Without the cloth pin, it would be almost impossible to tell it is not a real lamp. Yves
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That ship is so tall...it looks like a floating skyscraper. Wasn't it the tallest and most armed period vessel ever built? Yves
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Superb rendering of the North Atlantic sea.... This is going to be a great diorama. Yves
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And thus, we are starting the delicate (for me) double planking task. I am doing one quadrant at a time and started by the easier (relatively speaking) bow. Before: And after: This is not perfect and will probably ruffle the feathers of the experts, but it does look good to me after a nice coat of Wipe-On-Poly on top. Yves
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Another steps that I am adding and which is not described in the CAF kit, is the building of the gun ports, on the stern. You need to place these before attempting to double plank the stern. The planks will butt against the lower frame of the gun ports. The gun port lids are only provided in Session #5 and for those who do not have this Session yet, you should build gun ports of 18 x 18 mm for the lids to fit exactly. It is also not possible to open these rear gun ports, as Bulkhead #18 is right behind them. They will be represented closed on the model. Yves
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The delicate and crucial phase of marking the waterline is done, after careful measurements on the plan and according to pictures: I am using the little Model Shipways kit, which works relatively well, as long as you use a flat surface all around the ship. The hull will be copper tiled under the flotation line and double-planked over it. Following some exquisite models found in Museums and Art galleries, I have decided to glue a tiny separation all over the flotation line. This is done with a 1 x 2 mm mahogany wood strip, carefully glued with CA glue. The strip is flexible enough to marry perfectly the curves of the hull. This approach is not described in the CAF kit nor are the mahogany wood strips provided. With that nice separation in place, I can now move to the upper parts second planking, using the 0.4 mm x 8 mm maple strips, provided abundantly in the kit. Yves
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After finishing the 3D printed Corvette, it is now time to get back to the Bellona and breathe some wood dust, again. The hull has been carefully sanded and wiped with Wipe-on-Poly, the preferred wood treatment around this forum: I have also brushed an nth coat of black acrylic paint (Model Shipways) on the wales. I am sure there will be more touch-ups to be done, by the time the hull is finished. The hull is now ready for marking the waterline. Yves
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Excellent subject. I will follow as I like that kit. This kit is also available in 3D printing technology, but it is a lot more fun (and more realistic) to build it with wood. Yves
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- Morel
- master korabel
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Another virtual 3D printed kit that turned into a beautiful model. Congratulations. Yves
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Vallejo is not allowed in my house !!! I know that may come as a big surprise (and insult to some), but their paints are very difficult to properly spray. Their primer is okay on plastic but will peel on PE and other metals parts. I am sticking to TAMIYA acrylic paints and mixing when the color is not available. I feel for you Kevin.... with that shiny hull. It will be fine in the Monaco harbor at five o'clock for the tea !! 🙂 Yves
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Thank you Craig and many thanks to all the people who have supported me, encouraged me and helped me with technical information. You all are the fuel that gets me going when times are difficult and when the motivation suffers.... As I have indicated, there will be another Virtual Kit in the future..... I am in the process of printing parts and gauging the feasibility of that behemoth on my small printer. It will be most unusual and not something that has ever been covered on this forum. In the meantime, I am back on the Bellona. Yves
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Very nice workshop. Yves
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You are doing good. It is nice to see that unusual boat on the forum. Yves
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