Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by schooner

  1. Thanks Dan, the rest of the decks will be much easier to mask off since there are no bulkheads nearby
  2. MK37 Gunfire Control System Director Very simple – consists of a resin main piece, Britannia radar dish and optical range finder arms and PE supports . The only scratch additions are the RF feed horn in the center of the dish, canvas bloomers on the range finder and a simulated retracted canvas cover behind the Director Officer’s position. Hard to believe they fit 7 guys in that little box, when I served as the D.O on a slightly smaller director there were only 2 of us in there and it was still a tight fit. Operations Office and Signal Shelter The kit comes with a resin signal s
  3. Thanks Patrick. Although I enjoy doing this kind of stuff I've figured out that 1/192 is the smallest scale I can handle - I have no idea how the folks working with 1/350 scale, let alone 1/700, do it.
  4. DASH Hanger Very simple assembly. The usual 3 lifts of wood topped by a sheet plastic deck. The only anomaly was during my trip up to the USS Joseph P. Kennedy Jr in Fall River Mass I noticed that she had 9 blow-out hatches on the forward face of the hanger/ASROC magazine, not 6 as per the kit instructions. After I got home I did some research and found out that the Basilone had 9 too. Problem was that there was not enough room to fit the extra 3 hatches because the kit assembly has the starboard half the hanger extending about 1/16” forward of the port on the forward face. Checking the p
  5. Stacks Although the instruction book calls for these to be put together further down the road I decided to do them and the other deck details now before I paint the hull so that the time I have between painting the hull and finishing the build is minimized to reduce the chances of damaging the hull’s paint job. The stacks are cast from resin. After washing them with warm soapy water to remove the mold releasing agent they only needed a little putty to fill in a couple of small pits. Here’s what they look like after the kit-provided details have been added: Here’s what th
  6. Hi Patrick, Should you decide to model one of Connie's battle stations you might consider asking some help from the US Navy Museum at the Washington Navy Yard, they have a full scale mockup of 2 of Connie's guns on the gun deck. A little phone time and I'm sure you could find someone who would agree to take some photos if you mailed them a drug store camera and a return envelope. If no luck let me know and I could run down there and take some pix for you. Of course the folks onboard the real USS C up in Boston would probably do the same thing too. Tim
  7. Thanks Patrick! The Pilothouse This took me a lot longer than I thought it would. Lots of little, fragile parts make for slow going and frequent repairs I guess. The pilothouse, like the rest of the superstructure assemblies is made up of wooden lifts topped with a sheet plastic deck. The order of putting them together is a little different in that the top 2 are glued together then the 3rd piece is laid on them and a line traced to determine how much of an angle must be sanded into the front 3 faces so that they have a subtle “tilt” forward. Here’s the line being drawn (exaggerate
  8. Modifying the forward 01 level deck I ended my last post about the possibility of trying a new way to make portholes. It comes from the Waterline Warships book I listed on my first post. Basically a punch is used to punch about 2mm deep into the wood, a solid rod is then pushed against the circle, depressing the circle by 1 mm or so. The punch is then used to punch out discs of painted and glazed paper. The discs can then be glued into the depressed holes giving a pretty good simulation of a porthole with out the tear-outs associated with drilling them. Bottom line: I could not make it hap
  9. Shaping the superstructure As I mentioned earlier, the superstructure is made up of several sections, each of which is made up of pieces 3 of laser cut wood, topped with a laser cut sheet plastic deck. The shaping involves sanding their bottoms by placing sandpaper on the main deck so that they match the camber of the deck (minimal) and, more importantly, so that their heights are tapered correctly. The aft section tapers from aft to forward, i.e. the aft end is higher than its’ forward end. When done its’ top deck should be parallel with the keel. The forward superstructure assembly
  10. Patrick, I bought this "True Sander" years ago for sanding angles in strip wood for the deck furniture on my first kit. Haven't used it in a long time but it came in handy for sanding the beveled corners of the superstructure. Not sure if they make them anymore.
  11. Hey Patrick, That's some motivation you've got starting another build so quickly - I'm usually useless for another build for at least 6 months after finishing one. This is going to be great to watch. I've always wanted to do the MS Connie, in just the way you plan to, but lack of space is an issue. At least this way I'll get the pleasure of watching it come together without having to do any of the work. Kind of like having a personal shopper. Those are some really neat toys you have, wish I had a few. It sounds like you've got all the info you need regarding cannon but since yo
  12. ODDS AND ENDS The instructions call for drilling some locating holes for the 5” gun mounts, davits and some of the superstructure overhang supports. The plans clearly show 7 supports on the starboard side but those are not the ones that need to be addressed now. The ones that the instructions refer to are another set of 7 further forward. They are shown on the plans but are not labeled. The set on the port side will be a mirror image. Unlike the supports further aft these will rest 1/8” inboard of the deck edge, far enough in so that the lifelines will run outboard of them. They are not ev
  13. Anchor Hawses The first topside job is to fit the anchor hawse pipes. The hawses consist of 2 pieces pf Britannia cast metal; the hawse lips, which are the portion on the outside of the hull, and the hawse pipes, which are on the main deck. Don’t get too aggressive when filing off flash from the hawse pipes – the upright pin on them should remain, it’s called the bolster or bitt. The hawse lips are oblong and one end is thicker than the other. The thicker end is placed on the bottom and, although the plans don’t show it very clearly, the lips are glued on at a 45-degree angle, which ma
  14. Don, thanks for the pix!! That is a gorgeous build, way beyond what I could do. I was particularly impressed with you sheet brass work, your scratch inclined ladders and your radar antennas. Your album virtuosity is also clever, I really enjoyed just sitting back and watching the slide show of the build pix Thanks again
  15. Sonar Dome This is an easy part – adding the sonar dome. The Basilone carried an SQS-23 sonar which was a big improvement for its time. It was the first sonar with a rubber window in the dome and was supposed to be able to bounce active transmissions off the ocean bottom, although conditions for that to be able to work were very rare. When I served on ships with later, more powerful sonars we called to the SQS-23 the “Helen Keller sonar” although to be honest, compared to submarine sonars ours wasn’t much better. The dome comes in 3 laser cut parts, the hollow piece goes against t
  16. Thanks Patrick and Scott for the kind words. Patrick – if you like that poster there are a million more at www.despair.com Having spent too much time in offices and conference rooms where those “motivational” posters abound, finding that website helped me suppress the gag reflex everytime I saw one.
  17. Hi Patrick, I wouldn't call it a practicum but if it helps anyone, even to avoid my mistakes, then it's worth it
  18. PROPS AND STRUTS The prop blades are made up of PE brass, the hubs, collars struts and shaft bosses are cast Britannia. The instructions call for making the props quite a ways further down the road but I’m doing them now to prevent a potential problem that I will explain in a bit. The prop parts fit together well. Twisting the blades to provide a right and left hand prop is easy enough but giving the blades the proper pitch (curl) is a little more tricky. Fortunately I have a set of four metal forming pliers that I got from Micro-Mark, one of which made this step easy. After marking
  19. ADDING THE BILGE KEELS The bilge keels’ location is marked on the hull and a 1/16” wide by 1/16” deep slot is carved using a hobby knife and a file. The keels themselves are fabricated from stripwood, tapered at each end and sanded to a knifedge on the outer edge. After a lot of adjustments the keels fit into their slots. The bilge keels’ function is to help reduce rolling in a beam sea and provide stability during turns. Next up will be fitting the struts and, temporarily, the props
  20. Took a break earlier this week to go out to the National Archives facility in College Park, MD in order to look at the plans for the Basilone. It was well worth the trip because the Basilone had several differences from the Gearing and the plans at the NA are more detailed than what I got from the Floating Drydock. Anyone who is thinking of building a model of a post-1880 USN ship and lives within comfortable driving distance of Washington DC may want to think about taking a trip out there. They do have more rules and procedures than the TSA but they are all laid out on their website – as
  21. SHAPING THE HULL Shaping the hull using mainly sandpaper and occasionally files, and very occasionally a Dremel is for me the most tedious part of the build. Having removed the machining plugs on the bow and stern and marked the hull with the template stations, the hull is now ready for shaping. I started out by bring the bow into its proper profile, as viewed from the side, mainly using files, and verified by a laser-cut template provide in the kit. The gap at the bottom of the template is not a problem, the same gap appears when the template is layed on the plans so the height of
  22. Thanks Bob, hopefully this one won't take me near as long to build as the Olympia did, but then again, that one was before I took up fly fishing so it could be even longer.
  • Create New...