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flyer

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  1. flyer
    Congratulations Bob! A beautiful ship and very clean, precise work. Cheers Peter
  2. flyer
    Hi Bob Once again I must congratulate you on a superb and very clean build. I'm wondering where you would let evolution attach the third arm. For ship modelling purposes a good place would probably be on top of the head to be able to hold your piece of ship in a triangular grip... While stowing that anchor on my Pegasus I simply put a line around the base of one of the lower deadeyes. BTW why don't you like Granado's gun carriages? Cheers Peter
  3. flyer
    Hi Martin Bellerophon is a ship of the Arrogant class which was designed as a development of the Bellona class, sharing the same basic dimensions. All were based on the lines of Sir Thomas Slade's designs. As he was also the designer of the Victory I use her plans for confirmation of his general ways. The Bellona's plan - in the book you mentioned - is very similar to the plan of the arrogant class ship Edgar, published in 'The Billy Ruffian', but shows more details. The convex, smooth form of the taffrail, for example, is visible in both and differs from the kits rather flat one. I think that the kit is a great one but some simplifications, mistakes or misunderstandings may occur as well as financially motivated shortcuts. Therefore, if I am in doubt about the correctness of the kits instructions, I try to alter the model coinciding with my other sources. If in doubt I work towards what I think to be more pleasing to the eye because very often efficient war machines look quite elegant - a contradiction which is a little disturbing but nevertheless exists. So far this is the theory behind my building attempts. What I then manage to tinker together is the practise... Cheers peter
  4. flyer
    Preparations for the second planking The raw hull was now treated repeatedly with filler and sanding to create smooth lines. To check those lines I relied on the plans of Bellona with cross references to Victory using plans from the two books of the 'Anatomy of the ship' - series. The platform in front of the beak head bulkhead was planked. The plywood piece intended to cover the lower counter broke in two while I tried to fit it into the required concave form - despite the previous soaking in water. I then rebuilt the counter with some leftover planks and covered it with a second planking, leaving space for the two missing stern ports. Those were placed according to the Bellona plans. While building the skeleton for the side galleries I made some alterations. First I decided to plank the hull fully and thus set the side galleries onto the second planking contrary to the manual. This follows the method used on the prototype and will need some adjustments of the side gallery parts. Those two side gallery frames which are directly below the windows were hollowed out into open frames in order to (hopefully) give some additional depth to the side galleries (and some space for the officers using them). I also doubled up the rips which will later determine the form of the gallery windows of the officers wardroom. The kits lower gallery is almost flat and I try to get a more convex form as seen on the Bellona. Similar adjustments will be necessary for the poop deck to form the upper part of the transom. Some problems will arise with the decorations, for the Bellerophon as they are made as three white metal pieces, which I will have to bend somehow... All the gun ports without lids were framed because the second planking will run over the frames, finishing flush with the openings. Some of those frames were made up to three times because trials showed not enough headroom for the guns when placing the frames perpendicular to the planking. The frames were cut to give horizontal upper and lower sills. Finally the keel and the stem where glued in place, leaving the sternpost off. It will be added after sanding the second planking. first deck planking lower counter first planking with marked stern ports second planking on lower counter - altered side gallery frames also visible as well as the 3 lengthened rips which will determine the convex form of the transom rough gun port frames in place The wood strip was a bit too small even when setting it onto the inside planking. As the opening will later be painted I can use some filler to cover the gaps. her nice lines are starting to show
  5. flyer
    Hi Michael and Mobbsy Good to see you, welcome to the log.
  6. flyer
    Hi Bob But, that flag looks quite good. You could soak it with watered glue before folding to make the crinkles last. A few years ago I built Caldercrafts Granado which, I believe, is almost identical to the Amati kit. Perhaps CC provides the better manuals and certainly the better guns. The kit lets you build a great model with a lot of interesting details. There is also a book available in the Anatomy of the Ship series. Altogether Granado would be a very rewarding project and with the experience you have, you would be able to build a gem. Cheers Peter
  7. flyer
    Hi Bob As far as I can make out, the second pins from the front on both aftermost pin rails are free for the flag line. Or: Sometimes, when I run out of belaying points I use the same point to belay two different lines. I'm not sure about the real ships, but if you consider all those additional lines necessary for the sails (including buntlines, reef lines etc.) I guess they run sometimes out of belaying points too. If you don't like the flag coming with the kit, you could hand paint one on thin cotton and even choose the squadron you want to attach your Vanguard to. At the battle of the Nile Nelson was a rear admiral of the blue and she probably showed a blue ensign (as did the Titanic btw. either because Cpt Smith was a honorary CMD in the RNR or she was a Royal Naval Reserved Merchant Cruiser). Cheers Peter
  8. flyer
    "... then have figure out what to do with the damn thing." Hi Bob In real live usually the admiralty decides where the ships have to go... Ensign halyard: Usually a single block (suggest 3mm) is mounted at the end on the main gaff. A flag line (0.1mm natural thread) passes through the block with both ends running. Both ends are belayed at the same cleat on the inner bulwark (or a similar belaying point) just about abeam of the block. That means that you belay the line on the cleat, the opposite end leads up through the block and back down to be belayed at the same cleat. The ensign is fixed to one of the ends. Similar cleats should be provided on both sides, port and starboard, to enable the ensign to be set on either side of the gaff sail. This description follows the manual of Caldercrafts 'Pickle'. I find CC's manuals usually very well researched and accurate. Below you find a picture of my Pickles Ensign and its halyard. Cheers Peter
  9. flyer
    Hi Bob Thank you very much. I will follow the manual then, and paint the inside of the gallery a light grey as on victory and the 'floor' dark grey to black. You just saved me a lot of unnecessary, fiddly work. Thanks Peter
  10. flyer
    Hi Bob Thank you for the prompt answer. We are talking nearly about the same, only I was thinking of the inside of the side galleries. In the draft below You see the sections within the red marked areas on parts 58 (upper) resp. 60 (lower) which I would take out in order to create a side gallery which also has some depth below the windows. The question is now if you think you would see a difference -looked on from the outside of the finished stern- to your version where the 'floor' of the side gallery lies directly below the windows. Instead of nibbling those two closed triangles into frames with a high risk of braking them during or after the process, I think the surface could also just be painted black to suggest some depth. What do you think? Thanks Peter
  11. flyer
    Hi Bob You are making great progress on your wonderful build. To successfully correct a little mistake now and then is part of the fun - or so, I've been told... Watching your Vanguard coming to live is always a motivation boost for my Bellerophon build. A question, if I may: I'm actually pondering about those triangular side gallery patterns. I had the idea to work those two, on each side, directly below the windows into frames instead of the closed triangle. That way I hoped to create an impression of an real side gallery with some depth. The whole construction would however lose some stability and it would be fidgety work. Do you think the difference between your way of building, according the manual, and a side gallery with some depth below the windows would be noticeable at all from the outside? Happy modelling Peter
  12. flyer
    Hi Nils If you allow I'll be standing timidly in a back row to watch a master at work. I love the chebec - another very elegant ship! Cheers Peter
  13. flyer
    Hallo Nils You are a true artist. Congratulations to finishing a great project. Peter
  14. flyer
    Hi Martin After soaking them in water for 1hour it went quite well. The correct placing of the gun ports in regard of decks and frames is a bit tricky and if I really was successful will show only when trying to place the gun port frames and the guns. However the necessary bending in two directions of the stripes produced some of those mentioned bumps and dents (visible in the third picture where the plywood joins the planked part). Thank you, Mike Hi Jason Yes, 1/64 would be great but huuge! And 1/72 is almost the same - just imagine the original ship being only a bit farther away from you. Thanks for the information about the rail. So the Trafalgar configuration was probably as per kit. However as there is no definite information I will take the liberty to build as the plan in the book or those from Bellona show and pretend that the bulkheads were never heightened. Cheers Peter
  15. flyer
    Despite some distractions the first planking is now finished. Some dents and humps are showing and sanding, filling and sanding again will now start in earnest to get that hull shape which was intended by Sir Thomas Slade.
  16. flyer
    Hi Mark and Mort Didn't' spend enough time in the yard lately - I had to read that book. While there is just some additional information in regard of building the model, the story is catching, interesting and a great motivation for the build and very well written - a page turner. Thanks again for the hint. Cheers Peter
  17. flyer
    Hi Martin. Especially the shot depicting a birds view shows how wonderfully those steps fit your Pegasus. Great work. Cheers Peter
  18. flyer
    Hi Bob I'm unsure if you want to use the saddle for the gaff (upper piece of wood) or boom (lower...). The gaffs yaws vertical movement was controlled by the 'Gaff Throat Halliard'. If you don't have information about that in your Petersson, I could help. The saddle is used to support the booms yaws and was fixed to the mast. Cheers peter
  19. flyer
    Hi Bob The question about that 28 in your post on top of this side intrigued me. After all I will have to answer it for myself when I will reach the same stage of the build (in 10 years or so). Again I looked for an answer in Lees' book. It seems that 28 refers also to the small inset in the plan marked 'Mizzen boom tackle detail' and shows in fact the boom sheet. Lees writes about that: '...A double block was sized into a strap around the boom inside the taffrail; another double block was strapped to an eyebolt in the transom. The standing part of the sheet was made fast to the strap of the lower block and the hauling part belayed to a cleat in the deck.' That cleat would be your 28. And obviously the 'eyebolt in the transom' is missing in the plan and could be in line with the other eyebolts behind position 28. For the rigging of your next project I highly recommend that book The masting and riggging of English ships of war 1625 - 1860 by James Lees. It's a tremendous help with questions about rigging and also helps to correct mistakes sometimes even in building manuals as good as those from Caldercraft. Cheers Peter
  20. flyer
    Hi Mark and Mort Thanks for the hint about that book. Couldn't order it via amazon.com in the US but could order it via amazon.de (shipped from the US!) for double price! Wondering what kind of strange politics are at play here. Well, we should keep politics off this forum but perhaps I'm nevertheless allowed say that the louder the politicians yell, the more I detest them. In politics stupidity is not a handicap. Napoleon Bonaparte Cheers peter
  21. flyer
    test bed for dummies Two leftover parts from the 5mm sheet with the frames were put together to simulate the profile of the ships side; a strip similar to the strips holding the dummy guns was installed and the whole thing roughly planked. A first trial dummy carriage was put together from three simple parts and painted red. The installation on the test bed went easily and the overall impression is quite acceptable and an definite improvement. The really tricky part was the installation of the (very rough) gun port frame in 4 separate pieces which showed that even a limited access to the inner sides was desirable. However after already having broken off two upper pieces of the frames I put in both inner walls on the lower gun deck before going on. This should add some stability and I will leave off the lower gun deck for the time being. the test bed Slightly reworked gun carriage for the upper gun deck and dummy carriage for the lower gun port with dummy carriage added in the second picture
  22. flyer
    Hi Michael Very good looking sails with tremendous details. And I'm happy to read that you know how to treat tobacco properly and with all due respect (even if it's not Cuban, regrettably). Keep up the good work Peter
  23. flyer
    Hi Tony Thank you. Regarding the victory plans, I don't know for sure which of the 3 ships they are representing but as the basic variant is Vanguard it should be her. Some differences among the sister ships might show up during about 30 years after being built. There is an oil painting in the NMM in Greenwich with the title 'Scene in Plymouth Sound in August 1815' (BHC3227) which was painted in 1816 and should be a quite reliable source. Unfortunately the small reproductions in the web don't show the exact details of the disputed area. Your Bellerophon is a gem and I hope you will post more pictures. Cheers Peter
  24. flyer
    Your Bellerophon is a gem and I hope you will post more pictures. Cheers Peter
  25. flyer
    Hi Alan Thanks for your input. I presume those plans in the NMM depict the situation as built. Any idea about the configuration at Trafalgar? I guess, I will have to decide quite soon depicting what time and in which configuration / colour scheme I want to build her. I have noticed your scratch built Billy Ruffian before and admire you for that enormous task you took in hand. Being lazy, I'm glad to have a kit to tinker with. Cheers Peter

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