dvm27

Greg
right now I am using the draw plate with Juniper but experimenting with the needles. I just ordered some 18 gauge needles and have some 20 gauge needles but they quickly clogged up. I will be using the draw plate for this exercise.
kevin

Next time someone asks "what is museum quality" we should just refer him or her to this build!

Next time someone asks "what is museum quality" we should just refer him or her to this build!

Vandolay sold special 3/4" cutters for their treenail makers after I inquired about them. I still have them but quite honestly think the Byrnes treenail maker is the easiest and fastest way to make them. I start with bamboo skewers sold ib grocery stores.

I love whatever rendering process you are using. Looks very Van de Velde like.

I love whatever rendering process you are using. Looks very Van de Velde like.

Vandolay sold special 3/4" cutters for their treenail makers after I inquired about them. I still have them but quite honestly think the Byrnes treenail maker is the easiest and fastest way to make them. I start with bamboo skewers sold ib grocery stores.

Hopefully this resolves the problem.
 
 

Here are some pictures of my Chapter 10 work.  It is pretty much finished except the eye bolts along the rails.  I have all the holes drilled but need to make more eye bolts & rings.  I have not done the ships wheel yet as I forgot to order it with the Chapter so will probably wait till Chapter 12 is available & get that done then. I also need the chain plates, etc, for Chapter 11.  

 

 
 

 

 

None of the cannons are attached yet.  They are pretty glossy so I might dull them down a bit.  I think I will put the emblems on the Binnacle but leave it natural color.  Also leave the capstan natural - I couldn't bring myself to paint it.....
Pretty good progress for the last 3 weeks.   Till next time.....
Steve   

The belaying pins are now installed in their shroud deflectors. That's a term I had never read before but that's what they're called according to Markquardt. Perhaps they're called pin rails only when affixed to the inner bulwarks. The deflectors have grooves filed on the outboard edge for the shrouds and lashings inboard and are surprisingly strong once attached.  At any rate, I was able to hone my lathe technique to turn out consistent pins. Next it's on to ratlines. Perhaps Archjofo would fly in from Germany to show me how he successfully duplicated actual practice when securing them to the outer shrouds. Personally. I believe he used Photoshop as this is not humanly possible to do.
 

Thank you all for your likes and comments!  
I continue the process of assembling the parts of the boat.

I'm still working my way through chapter eleven, though the end is in sight. .
 
I've been working on the gangways. The bottom edge of the small platform that sits underneath the breast beam sets the height of the gangway along the waist. I made no adjustments to it. Consequently, the top of the gangway sits flush with the lower edge of the cap rail rather than the upper edge. The gangway probably should have been higher, but I really didn't notice it until after that aft platform was already glued in. Hopefully that 3" step up wouldn't have created a huge problem for the sailors.😁
 
The ladder needed to be tweaked in order for it to sit somewhat in line with the deck planking. To do that, I reduced the depth of the top of the aft side (see below). I just needed to be careful not to take off too much.
 
You might have noticed that the QD Rail is missing. After leaning on it, I removed it while working on the gangway.

I found that the knee angles where basically one size fits all, but incorrect for my model. The disc sander took care of that.

 

Mike

The layout has started. 3 hours in and i had to take a break. Just over half laid out. Another 3 hours to complete the pencil location of the treenails. Then to use a point to set the starter hole. Then drill and place the treenails.

I did that on my Hannah model Jim and the result was too much black (I assume you're talking about for deck planking). Perhaps a grayish black would work better. I think the pencil edge blackening technique is more subtle and doesn't over power the surrounding work. Definitely experiment first and don't forget the finish. You don't want the black paint to run if applying a finish over it.

The belaying pins are now installed in their shroud deflectors. That's a term I had never read before but that's what they're called according to Markquardt. Perhaps they're called pin rails only when affixed to the inner bulwarks. The deflectors have grooves filed on the outboard edge for the shrouds and lashings inboard and are surprisingly strong once attached.  At any rate, I was able to hone my lathe technique to turn out consistent pins. Next it's on to ratlines. Perhaps Archjofo would fly in from Germany to show me how he successfully duplicated actual practice when securing them to the outer shrouds. Personally. I believe he used Photoshop as this is not humanly possible to do.
 

Looks like your off to a good start with your supplies.
Here is everything I know about treenails, Trenails, Trenels or Trunnels
(a couple images shifted when converted to a PDF but I think you can figure it out)
Treenails - Alan O'Neill - 15MAR2022.pdf

Been awhile since I made this frame but perhaps the photo will show better what I've done. I'm pretty sure I started with a wider toptimber and shaped it to fit the offset. It needs to be wide enough at the top to form the side of the port. Then shape downwards in a smooth arc to fay into the next futtock.

Congrats to the publisher of this issue - it's fantastic!

Beautiful launch Keith! On another topic my bedroom set is of a similarly stained dark wood and it shows every spec of dust. Have you had this issue with your model?

Nolens volens, the überlauf (overloop) had to be done now. In the Dutch fashion, as many other parts of the structure.
 

 

 

 
 

Sanded, termites treated, sanded sealer, wipe on poly  on with satin finish

Love Leo's work and great start on the build. Enjoy the references. Good luck with those brass knees in the future!

Starting the QGalleries
 
This post will look a lot like many other fine logs that have gone before me. I’ll once again say how wonderful MSW, build logs, and this group project are as a ready resource, in addition to Chuck’s fine monograph of course, in helping guide my build. Maybe I’ll offer something new to those that follow, or at least serve as confirmation doing as others have done.
 
The q-galleries are an exercise in patience. Not difficult in and of themselves to make, given the nice laser cut parts Chuck provides for chapter 3, they require a great deal of precision in getting the measurements, location, and references lining up one part to another, and those to yet another.  Like many elements of the build, getting the “infrastructure” right is critical to how the final product will look.

First up is cutting out the gallery template and marking the location of the top frame and roof. I thought for a moment why not just get some crayons, color this in and call it done, but decided to continue forward when my grandkids wouldn’t let me use their crayons.

I glued on the upper frame after checking and rechecking measurements. There is the reality that every hull is different and there likely won’t be an exact match. It’s amazing though how well Chuck’s design works, things just seem to fit and/or have the built in latitude for adjustment. I will give myself a little credit for my obsession all the way back to fitting the stern frames and gallery framing against the plan. (the template is just loosely sitting there for the photo).

Next up is adding the lower frame or floor along the line of the wales. Here it's held up for checking using my new best friend, double sided tape. It holds well and is easily removed.

I prefer to work both sides of the ship rather than completely finishing one, so while waiting for the PVA glue to dry at various points I worked on the transom cove. I’m happy to report I did not break those lovely but very fragile scroll parts (they come as two, then mated on the cove). Don’t need it yet, but it was a nice distraction.

Not sure which log I saw this on, so thanks to my fellow builder for the idea of installing the head before adding the q-frame planking. I’ll have to say fitting it this way from the side verses working from the top was a straight forward approach, just had to gently fair the outboard edge to match up with the upper and lower frame.

After fairing the frames I added the “planking,” a 1/32 layered sheet that easily bends on multiple axis to nicely cover the frame. It was a bit of a challenge for me to line it up to cover top and bottom, fore to aft. Just a little fumble fingered work, it’s purposely oversized to allow for that adjustment - I just had to do it. I resorted to CA here, it’s not going anywhere now.

I spent several hours sorting out how to attach the gallery roof. Pie-shaped it has to hold itself up (for now) glued to two sides. Ok, that’s not so hard…maybe…  The challenge is attaching the slippery little pie so that it is parallel to the upper frame, like the lower frame reasonably closely following the run of the planks, and be in line with the deck. After a few false starts I elected to install some temporary “scaffolding” after measuring remeasuring, then measuring again. The final challenge for me was to have both port and starboard roofs the same height above the upper frame and the same height below the top rail of the hull on the side and the transom at the back.  I had to carefully remove my scaffolding after the glue had a little time to hold and before it became glued to the hull too. 

With that both galleries are ready to be closed up with posts, windows and moulding followed by the roof and touch up painting. If you never hear from me again you’ll know it didn’t go well or I’m still trying to scrape wood into molding.
 
Thanks for stopping by, your likes and comments are always appreciated.

Perfectly done lighting, looks very natural. Might be cool if you were to hollow out an area below the gratings and place a light there so it would provide the illusion of a lower deck.