wefalck
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Everything posted by wefalck
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Yes, it was a common design. I was just somewhat surprised that the wood should be protected by Muntz metal against the attack of terredo navalis. -
Quite amazing, the animation ! I noted the same, that the change of hands during pulling isn't quite right, as there is a moment when no hand touches the rope, which would be physically impossible, the rope would drop immediately or run out.
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And the wood will not be covered in Muntz metal ? I don't know, if STANDART ever ventured out of the Baltic Sea, but if so, there would have been a risk of attack by terredo navalis on the rudder blade ...
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Nice work again ! I am a bit confused about the rudder: it shows the rivetting with which normally the plates covering the wooden infill would be fixed to the cast or forged frame. How will be the frame filled in ?
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Ropewalk
wefalck replied to Worldway's topic in Rope Making/Ropewalks's Rope Materials and parts resources
Actually, I don't have an engineering background (I am a geologist) and no training as a mechanic ... I believe, that anyone, who can drill a hole into a piece of (ply)wood with reasonable accuracy and can saw-off a piece of steel or brass rod can build a rope-walk. It may not look as professional and may not last for decades, but it would serve the purpose. Another route would be through an old Meccano set (or whatever construction set may have been available in your country). I vaguely remember that there was even an example in the booklet for my German Märklin construction set. -
I have by no means a commercial connection with PROXXON ... I bought a PROXXON TBM in the early 1980s (and still have it and use it) and it has been for a long time my only stationary power-tool. Soon after the purchase I slightly modified the fence, to that I could use it as an (inverted) router with the ubiquitous dental burrs with 2.45 mm shaft. When I purchased it, they were also selling a kit for it, with which one could convert it into a simple (and somewhat wobbly) wood lathe; it had a face-plate, revolving centre, and a tool-rest as well as a longer pillar, which in fact I kept installed. The face-plate, together with tool-rest (which has an adjustable fence) turned the machine also into a disc-sander. However, rather than using it with the face-plate I used it with a grinding-stone to grind the tools for my first watchmakers lathe. As the head rotates around the pillar, one can also use it as a mobile pillar drill on oversize work, clamping it to the workpiece or the table for drilling outside the table. So it was a worthwhile investment for a student and earned its life. Not sure, whether the current version of the TBM still can do all these things.
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Small machines, such as the PROXXON TBM do not have Morse tapers. Their spindles are usually threaded on the outside for the drill-chuck and in the case of the PROXXON machines they also have a proprietary taper for collets that are tightened with a nut. Owing to the popularity of ER collets these days, you may also find machines with a taper for say ER11 collets (takes drills/end-mills/router bits of up to 7 mm diameter).
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I think the original post was about dying wood black/dark brown, rather than giving it a antique look ... These days I would give the wood repeated washes of black or brown acrylic paint. This is uncomplicated and dries fast. The antique look is essentially simulating the grime accumulated in pores, crevices and nooks, which something different from a patina, which is the surface alteration of a metal under the influence of oxygen and other environmental agents. For the 'antiquing' you just brush on a dark permanent(!) ink or acrylic washes. Before the stuff is dry you can take some off again with a wet brush or you can wipe it off high parts. Doing it in stages, you can finely control the effect.
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In principle, drill-chucks should not be used for milling, because they are not desgined for side-loads. However, when milling small pieces of wood, this may not be an issue. Having said that, you need a way to move the piece of wood in a controlled way. Normally, this is done with a cross-slide or -table. You may, therefore, considering getting the small Proxxon KT70 cross-table for your drill press. Prices seem to vary quite a bit, but for about € 65 / USD 70 you should be able to find one. I seem to understand that you don't have the drill-press yet. If you get the PROXXON one, then it will have collets, which are just the thing for milling.
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Ropewalk
wefalck replied to Worldway's topic in Rope Making/Ropewalks's Rope Materials and parts resources
I think we have already several threads on the subject here. Somehow people seem to make a lot of fuss about these simple machines, while in reality it is easy to build one yourself with a saw and a (bench-)drill. Of course, one can add any kind of complications, such as an arrangement for continuous rope-making etc. Until I inherited a nice 1940s bakelite optical bench from my father, I was thinking of using just simple curtain rails fixed to a plank of wood. Gears, steel rods, set-collars and other hardware you get either in a hobby-shop or DIY-store. Be inventive and make a simple design to suit the tools and skills you have. A simple sketch is sufficient as instruction. If you apply the 'Frölich'-design, you can do away even with the dolly. My design, using Frölich's idea can be seen here: http://www.maritima-et-mechanika.org/maritime/tips/Ropewalk/Ropewalk.html -
Swann-Morton Scapel
wefalck replied to Landlocked123's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I use the same procedure as Dan and never injured myself in 30+ years ... Fear makes your movements unsure Doctors and nurses uses such removal devices because they handle the equipment with surgical gloves that may not be perforated in order to remain sterile and in order to minimise the risk of infecting themselves by contaminated blood etc. -
Tackles With Lots of Rope In Between
wefalck replied to mikiek's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Found these on ebay. Ten for 1,51 € including shipping are on the way to me. They are 42 mm long apparently. -
You are right, when it comes to buying things, one needs to be sure of the terminology in order to get the right stuff. However, I often find that even salespersons are not well trained anymore in the stuff they are selling ... and the English on Chinese/Indian web-sites sometimes can be, well, challenging ...
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What oil to use for Proxxon TBM220 drill press
wefalck replied to vaddoc's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Just out of curiosity: I have the predecessor to this machine, purchased in the early 1980s. At that time it had ball-bearings, which of course would not be oiled, but greased. Did they change the bearings to plain bearings, which would need to be oiled ? This would be rather surprising, as one hardly ever uses plain bearings these days. And, yes, I use 'sewing machine' oil for my small lathes and mills, which is what the manufacturers recommended at the time. -
Tackles With Lots of Rope In Between
wefalck replied to mikiek's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Slightly off-topic: Pat, I gather this black thingies are Pomona™ micro-grabbers ? They look very useful. Just checked on the Internet and I could get ten for USD 20 plus shipping and handling of USD 23 . Somehow I don't understand how the Chinese can sell a pack of ten similar 'grabbers' at € 1.35 with shipping included: https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/Wo4AAOSw4GVYOQ84/s-l1600.jpg OK, the US American ones look more upmarket ... sorry for the USA economy, but the hobby budget is limited. -
I really like this sailor's (or rigger's) work, with all the splicing, serving and leathering. Makes me itchy to start a project with sails again ...
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I believe sailors call 'yarn' everything thin that has not been twisted into a tight rope. I recall a lively semantic discussion in a German forum about such issues. Sailors tend to be less strict in the use of their terminology, although individuals might be quite insisting on the use of certain terms, than industrial technologists. Serving may occur on all sizes of rope and, hence, the material used on the prototype may range from 'yarn' to thin rope. Incidentally, I have simulated served rope in very small dimensions by copper-wire that is covered in silk, as was used in electrical and electronic equipment in the old days. For years it was difficult to obtain, but more recently some companies seem to cater for the radio restoring trade and the likes. While the rope as such looks convincing, it is not so easy to make good eye-splices. Silk covered wire can be obtained here (https://www.wires.co.uk/acatalog/craft_col_silk_covered.html) for instance.
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Well, I would rather look at pictures of some real ships for the relationships between rope diameter and serving yarn diameter. On models the serving is - for reasons of material availability, almost always too thick.
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I was, indeed, wondering, what happened to the project ... Why are there two different types of rudder ?
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Metal work resourcnes
wefalck replied to Kurt Johnson's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
There may be also free digital copies of older books on the subject available through GoogleBooks or national libraries. -
How is your new workshop coming on ? Any more progress on the ALBERIC ?
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Scootish Maid rigging problems - gaff and boom
wefalck replied to gthursby's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
You are right, it was McGregor, not Underhill, who draughted the plans of her. Just a note on double halliards or lifts: they can be worked as single or double, depending on whether one keeps on part belayed (as standing part) or pulls on both. BTW, I always like the aesthetics of the 'Aberdeen Bow' ... -
Metal work resourcnes
wefalck replied to Kurt Johnson's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
Depends on what kind of metal work you are talking about. Machining ? It also depends a bit on the kind of machines you have or consider buying. As I said in another recent post, there are quite a few tutorials and the likes on the Internet and useful fora, for instance the one that is run by the traditional magazine 'The Model Engineer': http://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/ There are also many good tutorial and reference books on the market. An on-line booksellers that I used in the past and that has virtually everything that is on the market is: https://www.camdenmin.co.uk/ I personally collected also a few books meant for vocational training in metal and machine work. Particularly pre-1960 books are useful, before NC was introduced seriously and all was treated more like a 'craft' than an economic engineering problem. They give you the basics and can be found on flea-markets or at antique booksellers for little money. -
The main question would be how big or how small the holes would be, you want to drill. Down to 0,5 mm this is not a very big issue, but below that the run-out of the drill-spindle and the chuck/collets become a crucial variable in your considerations. I gather, if you are based in continental Europe, as your first name might suggest, you may want to look into PROXXON-products, for both hand-held and bench-drills. Have intensively used their bench-drill for the last 35 or so years (I must admit, after a lot of abuse due to oversize work etc., now the bearings aren't the best anymore). All PROXXON-drills can be used either with a drill-chuck or collets. In general, I prefer the latter, as they are smaller and have a smaller run-out. I never had any of the fancy Dremel or PROXXON hand-drills. Bought a simple DC electric motor in aluminium tube and with a collet attachment that is still alive and well after 40 years of heavy (ab)use. Again, I think steel collets are preferable over drill-chucks. For a hand-held drill I would try out how it feels in your hand - diameter/balance. The rest is not so important.
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Scootish Maid rigging problems - gaff and boom
wefalck replied to gthursby's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
I cannot give specific answers to what the rigging of the SCOTTISH MAID may have looked like. Not sure anyone can. Isn't there a set of Underhill-plans on which the kit presumably is based ? To the question of the point, where on the gaff the haliards should be attached: if you move the point so far out that the halliard leads down to the mast-cap you would exert a downward pull onto the throat halliard, which certainly is not desirable. Otherwise, one would distribute the fixing points along the gaff so that wind-pressure from the sail is distributed relatively evenly and the gaff does not bend unnecessarily.
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