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Everything posted by wefalck
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This not 'my' period at all, so I never looked at the build log before. But someone pointed me towards your work with styrene and I scrolled through all 53 pages of it. I must say, I am rather impressed !
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Not all boats were built with removable thwarts or with all thwarts removable. Particurly those light ones with bent frames have the tendency to spread and need the thwarts (or other members) as ties. The nesting ones used on warships probably had sawn frames. Not that many people go to the detail as e.g. in this example (and David probably): https://www.arbeitskreis-historischer-schiffbau.de/mitglieder/modelle/kutter-kl-1/ I think not all boats had footrests. It depended on their purpose. The naval cutters were meant to be rowed from the ship to the land and back, for 'amphibian operations', and the likes, where long distances had to be covered efficiently. To the contrary some fishing boats needed a relatively uncluttered space a working platform between the thwarts ... Incidently, Eric McKee has nice chapter on rowing ergonomics in his book on Working Boats of Britain.
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Air brush vs paint & brush
wefalck replied to jefferyt's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Well, many of the museum-modells were and are built by workshops in which there are people with specialist skills, such as painting. Some hobby model-builders become skilled in almost all trades and others struggle with certain skills ... that normal. Both spray- and brush-painting require practice (and knowledge) the latter probably more than the former. However, I think that you can probably get a reasonably good airbrushing kit for less than a couple of hundred quid, rather than 'hundreds'. It also depends on the size you require, which in turn depends on the size of the model(s) you want to paint. -
I was about to commend you for your embarrasingly steady progress ... sorry to hear about the set-back - makes you human
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Talking about women, did you actually get the bowsprit netting done or did I miss this ?
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In these weird days one always worries a bit in our age group, when someone if out of sight for while ... good to hear that there were good reasons for keeping away from us old sods ... (well actually my wife sometimes tells me that I have the mental age of a 16 year old - I take it as a compliment). Of course, we are keen to see the next instalment.
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YOUNG AMERICA 1853 by Bitao - FINISHED - 1:72
wefalck replied to Bitao's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Well done the ladders. You cross-drilled the wire and soldered in the rungs, I suppose ? It would be a matter of presentation, but if I am not mistaken, the roofs of deck-houses would have some heavily painted canvas nailed on, I believe.- 257 replies
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Some years ago I tried to trace the builder's model of a German ship build in the 1840s on a British yard. The model had been donated by the builders to the museum in the late 19th century, but then in the 1930s the museum apparently decided to offload items that were not of immediate relevance to British cultural history and they sold the model off. Together with the museum we found an old auction catalogue that listed the model, but the auction house folded in shortly afterwards, so that I could not find out, who the buyer was ... the museum staff were very helpful at the time, I hasten to add.
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Shellac or a nitrocellulose primer (with filler) would be my personal choice for finishing the hull. When rub down with fine steel-wool they would give a nice sheen. This also leaves you the option open, to paint (part of) the hull, if you (or the Admiralty) change your mind. I didn't follow the yawl project, from what period is the boat ? Somewhere else on the forum there was a discussion on exactly that subject: how did they deal with such bluff bows and the fact that the girth of the hull changes dramatically along the length. The solution is to run the bottom planks up to and butt them against more or less horizontal strakes above the turn of the bilge.
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Home, bench top laser cutters.
wefalck replied to Bill Hudson's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
A CNC-machine does not make 0.2 mm square holes, for instance, ... it all depends on what you are trying to do with it. They are not necessarily substitutes. -
I think, at this size it is still doable and will look crisper than with other techniques. Whether you use photoetching or laser-cutting, you will always end up with corner radii for technical reasons. I have been down the road, albeit at a much smaller scale, but was never 100% satisfied with the result (however, handling non-rectangular gratings of less then 10 mm square with battens 0.3 mm wide was too much of a challenge). Some people mill/saw the grooves into a a sheet of wood, then cross-mill/saw the grooves for the half-thick battens (or perhaps better the other way around, glue the sawn battens in and then mill/sand away the backing wood. In order to get the grain running along the long battens in the chevron, one may need to glue together two pieces of wood cut to shape appropriately.
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Looks rather promising. How long is the grating actually ?
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Can't you glue the paper to a small block of wood that you then can put vertically into the vice so that you can make horizontal cuts with the circular saw ?
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YOUNG AMERICA 1853 by Bitao - FINISHED - 1:72
wefalck replied to Bitao's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
OK, now I understand your process !- 257 replies
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YOUNG AMERICA 1853 by Bitao - FINISHED - 1:72
wefalck replied to Bitao's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Bitao, I understood that you are using some wooden fixture. Could you just show a picture or two (if you have them) how you milled the parts for the companionway ?- 257 replies
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YOUNG AMERICA 1853 by Bitao - FINISHED - 1:72
wefalck replied to Bitao's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Bitao, would you mind showing those jigs/fixtures ? Having faced similar issues, I build myself for the micro-mill a micro-vise with jaws only 10 mm and 1 mm deep.- 257 replies
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These boat-gratings were indeed some interesting pieces of joinery, even at full-scale. Wouldn't you have to notch the battens somehow into the frame ? I could myself see glueing the chevron-battens to some paper that has been glued to a piece of metal to then cut the notches on my horizontal mill or putting the block upright into the vice. The half-through notches in the outside would be a case for your Russian micro-chisels then probably.
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YOUNG AMERICA 1853 by Bitao - FINISHED - 1:72
wefalck replied to Bitao's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Nice micro-carpentry on the companionway. How did you do it ?- 257 replies
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These 'rolling' bevels (that look like a beading ?) seem to be quite common on ships and boats. They take away the risk of splintering edges and look 'ship-shape, Bristol-fashion'.
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OK, he doesn't want to throw out his nice piece of SS, but there would be other option, such mirror-coated Plexiglas (which even allows you to drill holes from the back to mount the half-model). Just before reading this thread, I happened to see a Chinese vendor on ebay, who sells 304 SS with a mirror finish already ...
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