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wefalck

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  1. wefalck
    In these weird days one always worries a bit in our age group, when someone if out of sight for while ... good to hear that there were good reasons for keeping away from us old sods ... (well actually my wife sometimes tells me that I have the mental age of a 16 year old - I take it as a compliment). Of course, we are keen to see the next instalment.
  2. wefalck
    Well done the ladders. You cross-drilled the wire and soldered in the rungs, I suppose ? It would be a matter of presentation, but if I am not mistaken, the roofs of deck-houses would have some heavily painted canvas nailed on, I believe.
  3. wefalck
    Thanks for the link. I may have seen the site before, but it is good to be reminded of it then ...
  4. wefalck
    Simple solution: I only build models that fit onto an A4-sheet 🥴
  5. wefalck
    Some years ago I tried to trace the builder's model of a German ship build in the 1840s on a British yard. The model had been donated by the builders to the museum in the late 19th century, but then in the 1930s the museum apparently decided to offload items that were not of immediate relevance to British cultural history and they sold the model off. Together with the museum we found an old auction catalogue that listed the model, but the auction house folded in shortly afterwards, so that I could not find out, who the buyer was ... the museum staff were very helpful at the time, I hasten to add.
  6. wefalck
    Where did you hear that the collection has been sold ? It happened that certain items have been sold in the past, but I understand that most of the collection has been put into storage.
  7. wefalck
    Shellac or a nitrocellulose primer (with filler) would be my personal choice for finishing the hull. When rub down with fine steel-wool they would give a nice sheen. This also leaves you the option open, to paint (part of) the hull, if you (or the Admiralty) change your mind. I didn't follow the yawl project, from what period is the boat ? Somewhere else on the forum there was a discussion on exactly that subject: how did they deal with such bluff bows and the fact that the girth of the hull changes dramatically along the length. The solution is to run the bottom planks up to and butt them against more or less horizontal strakes above the turn of the bilge.
  8. wefalck
    A CNC-machine does not make 0.2 mm square holes, for instance, ... it all depends on what you are trying to do with it. They are not necessarily substitutes.
  9. wefalck
    I think, at this size it is still doable and will look crisper than with other techniques. Whether you use photoetching or laser-cutting, you will always end up with corner radii for technical reasons. I have been down the road, albeit at a much smaller scale, but was never 100% satisfied with the result (however, handling non-rectangular gratings of less then 10 mm square with battens 0.3 mm wide was too much of a challenge). Some people mill/saw the grooves into a a sheet of wood, then cross-mill/saw the grooves for the half-thick battens (or perhaps better the other way around, glue the sawn battens in and then mill/sand away the backing wood. In order to get the grain running along the long battens in the chevron, one may need to glue together two pieces of wood cut to shape appropriately.
  10. wefalck
    Looks rather promising. How long is the grating actually ?
  11. wefalck
    Can't you glue the paper to a small block of wood that you then can put vertically into the vice so that you can make horizontal cuts with the circular saw ?
  12. wefalck
    OK, now I understand your process !
  13. wefalck
    Bitao, I understood that you are using some wooden fixture. Could you just show a picture or two (if you have them) how you milled the parts for the companionway ?
  14. wefalck
    Bitao, would you mind showing those jigs/fixtures ? Having faced similar issues, I build myself for the micro-mill a micro-vise with jaws only 10 mm and 1 mm deep.
  15. wefalck
    These boat-gratings were indeed some interesting pieces of joinery, even at full-scale. Wouldn't you have to notch the battens somehow into the frame ? I could myself see glueing the chevron-battens to some paper that has been glued to a piece of metal to then cut the notches on my horizontal mill or putting the block upright into the vice. The half-through notches in the outside would be a case for your Russian micro-chisels then probably.
  16. wefalck
    Nice micro-carpentry on the companionway. How did you do it ?
  17. wefalck
    These 'rolling' bevels (that look like a beading ?) seem to be quite common on ships and boats. They take away the risk of splintering edges and look 'ship-shape, Bristol-fashion'.
  18. wefalck
    Butting the upturning planks against a more or less horizontal plank avoids the use of stealers, is more economical in wood and easier to do: if you use stealers, you have avoid them feathering out, rather they to be joggled or hooked into neighbouring planks.
  19. wefalck
    OK, he doesn't want to throw out his nice piece of SS, but there would be other option, such mirror-coated Plexiglas (which even allows you to drill holes from the back to mount the half-model). Just before reading this thread, I happened to see a Chinese vendor on ebay, who sells 304 SS with a mirror finish already ...
  20. wefalck
    Check out jewellers' or lapidary supply stores. They have all grades of grinding and polishing pastes and sticks, as well as buffing wheels. Tripel or Tripolis (as it seems to be called in the USA) is a fine clay that came originally from Africa and is usually sold as sticks bound in wax. Rouge or Paris Red is iron oxide finely ground and is sold in sticks bound with wax to be applied to buffing wheels, as compacted poweder in tins (like the ladies' rouge), or as cream in tubes (as polish for silver and brass). Vienna chalk is usually sold as compacted blocks for rubbing, but may also be the active component in creams Tin oxide is sold as powder and is used with a drop of oil on a glass or hard steel plate to give a mirror finish to watch components Grinding and polishing is the progressive removal and flattening out of surface roughness. At each step a homogenous surface has to be achieved, deep scratches left in a previous step will not go away in the following step. It is important to always move in one direction, cross or circular strokes lead to irregular patterns that will not result in a mirror finish on larger surfaces.
  21. wefalck
    Dealing with very bluff bows/sterns and butting of bottom planks against wales or other planks higher up on hull are two different technical resp. geometric issues. If you have a hull with a rather square main cross-section, but relatively sharp ends, the girth amidship is much longer than the length of the rabbet in the stem- or stern-post. This results in a problem when planking: a) if the planks have to have a reasonble width at the ends, they must be very broad in the middle; b) if they have a resonable width amidship, they become two narrow at the ends to fasten them properly. There are two solutions to the problem: you can either work with stealers amidship or you can run some of the planks up to other planks higher up on the hull. This seems to have been a common Dutch practice. Petrejus discusses this issue, for instance, in his book on IRENE on p. 53 ff. (English language version). Bending the planks on these very bluff bows is indeed another technical issue and requires a lot of heat, wedges and tackles ...
  22. wefalck
    Nice ironwork on the pumps and belaying pins !
  23. wefalck
    The dual-colour LED panels should be used with some caution I think. If you have two light-sources of different 'temperature', it will be rather difficult to correct the white balance - you can do it only for one or the other light source. I am curious, Gaetan, what gadget you found to suspend the panels from the ceiling. For taking pictures from inside models or from a 'deck-hand' perspective, there are now also cheapo 'intra-oral' cameras on the market, essentially endoscopes on a short stick, rather than on a long flexible shaft.
  24. wefalck
    Not a lot of head-room ...
  25. wefalck
    Yes, David, these Kirsanov chisels are really beautiful - but rather expensive. I am tempted, but probably won't actually need them. In fact, I had already purchased some HSS-rods of 2 mm diameter to grind them into really small chisels to be set into some 6 mm walnut-dowel I have and some nice turned brass ferrules. AON, there seem to be so many different variants of building boats that look similar from the outside. Its like with plumbers and electricians, who by default consider the ways of others strange or outright faulty

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