Jump to content
New Publication - Ship Modeler's Handbook - Accepting Orders ×

wefalck

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    6,202

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by wefalck

  1. wefalck
    G.L., that's a clever gadget Bruno Orsel came up with, to kind of having a adjustable spline as a ruler. Also the sping in this case is better than heaving a 'feather board' or a roller-bearing there, as some people use. Have to put this into my folder of modelling techniques. And, she begins to look like boat, rather than the carcass of a dead animal
  2. wefalck
    What paint did you use and do you have a paint number for the buff/yellow of the funnels ? In a way it is a pity that all the lovely metal-work is not hidden under paint ...
  3. wefalck
    Yep, well done. This is how I perceived it from the image. Will you add also the cord (not sure about the exact term in the context of bells ...) ?
  4. wefalck
    Steampunk-outboard ?
  5. wefalck
    That was my thinking also ...
  6. wefalck
    My understanding was/is that treenails are slightly tapered and driven into their respective holes from the outside, after having been dipped into tar and the holes themselves also being tarred. The treenail then is spilt inside the hull and the wedge being driven in thus locking (clenching) the treenail. On the outside, the treenails would be planed flush with the planking. Any attempt to caulk a treenail would loosen it in its hole and, hence, compromise its function of locking the planking to structural members of the hull. I am not sure, but I think also that the grain in the treenail was set perpendicular to the run of the planking. Otherwise, as the planks shrink perpendicular to the grain when drying out, the loosening of treenail by the holes becoming larger would be compounded as the treenail also becomes smaller perpendicular to the grain.
  7. wefalck
    I would double the resolution over what the printer can do and scale the drawing appropriately. The decals will certainly stick to the aluminium, but the question would be, wether it does not peel off again, when one tries to drape the flag. Probably one of those decal softeners would help, because they seem to dissolve the backing film, leaving essentially a coat of paint in place. That is less likely to peel than a film of something. Otherwise, it could be a good idea to shop around the fora of figure modellers. They deal with the problem of complex patterns and images on draped fabric all the time and might have other ideas - apart from actually painting it by hand
  8. wefalck
    Nice project indeed ! Coming back to the flags: you could print the flags onto decal film and then apply the decal to the backing material of your choice. Some people use aluminium foil, as it can be draped nicely. Not sure, whether this would work with decals attached, I have seen this done only with painted flags. Another option could be silk- or cigarette paper. My concern would be the lightfastness of the print-out. One should probably give it a coat with an UV-protecting varnish.
  9. wefalck
    A bit too small scale for me, but very nice model indeed! A few years ago I had planned to visit her, but then my (business) trip to Athens was called off at the last moment ...
  10. wefalck
    Didn't have time (yet) to read through the whole log: did you already build the engine or is that treat this still to come ?
  11. wefalck
    Looks as if some sort of cross-piece would slot into the gaps of the re-enforcements of the washstrake. Perhaps for the slide-mount of a light boat-gun. Not sure, whether the Italian navy of the time would have something like this, but the contempory Prussian navy did. This guns could be mounted on three-wheeled carriages for use in landing operations.
  12. wefalck
    I noticed this as well, but thought that it was boiler.
  13. wefalck
    When looking at the little cropped image, I would toss the coin onto the metal side. To me it looks like a piece of cast iron, to spidery for wood, as it has to carry the presumably pretty heavy bell.
  14. wefalck
    It is for American English native speakers probably more difficult than for British English native speakers (I am actually neither ...). To my knowledge it is still current parlance in British English to speak of converting timber into construction parts with the implied meaning of being resource efficient. It seems that in American English the noun 'disposition' in recent years has became a verb ('to disposition'), replacing the original verb 'to dispose' (in the sense of arranging something, such as troops or in this case planks) or the phrase 'to make dispositions', while the meaning of 'to dispose' has narrowed to 'making arrangements for the mangement of waste'.
  15. wefalck
    It was probably to conserve wood and not make things weaker by not using sapwood, where planks needed to be endfastened and caulked.
  16. wefalck
    Mark, I was recently pointed towards this building log: The guy explains his strategy when carving styrene, but he also does quite good wood-carvings, so he knows what he is doing. I scrolled through all 53 pages of the log and there are some interesting ideas in it. Begin at the end, because the carving doesn't start until page 40 or so.
  17. wefalck
    Sapwood is of inferior quality and prone to rot. The term 'English' seems to refer to the origin of the wood. Other source were typically tropical hardwood (not much used in the UK themselves) and Baltic 'deals'. In both cases the sapwood would have probably been removed in a saw mill before shipping, as such woods otherwise may have fetched lower prices. I would interpret Steel in this way: In order avoid sapwood butting against other planks (as was done, when hulls had a rather rounded midship section, but fairer ends) or into the rabbet, the plank was tapered on the upper edge, cutting away the sapwood.
  18. wefalck
    Somehow I missed the brackets. Of course, no stays needed with these.
  19. wefalck
    Yep, turnbuckles at that scale are a challenge ... just wondering, whether shoulnd't be any stays forward too ?
  20. wefalck
    This not 'my' period at all, so I never looked at the build log before. But someone pointed me towards your work with styrene and I scrolled through all 53 pages of it. I must say, I am rather impressed !
  21. wefalck
    Not all boats were built with removable thwarts or with all thwarts removable. Particurly those light ones with bent frames have the tendency to spread and need the thwarts (or other members) as ties. The nesting ones used on warships probably had sawn frames. Not that many people go to the detail as e.g. in this example (and David probably): https://www.arbeitskreis-historischer-schiffbau.de/mitglieder/modelle/kutter-kl-1/ I think not all boats had footrests. It depended on their purpose. The naval cutters were meant to be rowed from the ship to the land and back, for 'amphibian operations', and the likes, where long distances had to be covered efficiently. To the contrary some fishing boats needed a relatively uncluttered space a working platform between the thwarts ... Incidently, Eric McKee has nice chapter on rowing ergonomics in his book on Working Boats of Britain.
  22. wefalck
    Well, many of the museum-modells were and are built by workshops in which there are people with specialist skills, such as painting. Some hobby model-builders become skilled in almost all trades and others struggle with certain skills ... that normal. Both spray- and brush-painting require practice (and knowledge) the latter probably more than the former. However, I think that you can probably get a reasonably good airbrushing kit for less than a couple of hundred quid, rather than 'hundreds'. It also depends on the size you require, which in turn depends on the size of the model(s) you want to paint.
  23. wefalck
    Pedestrian progress ? Compared to that I am a snail that turns around itself 😁
  24. wefalck
    I was about to commend you for your embarrasingly steady progress ... sorry to hear about the set-back - makes you human
  25. wefalck
    Talking about women, did you actually get the bowsprit netting done or did I miss this ?

About us

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

SSL Secured

Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured

NRG Mailing Address

Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917

Model Ship World ® and the MSW logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,929,264 & No. 6,929,274, registered Dec. 20, 2022)

Helpful Links

About the NRG

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to “Advance Ship Modeling Through Research”. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships.

The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.

Our Emblem ®

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

Nautical Research Guild ® and the NRG logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,999,236 & No. 6,999,237, registered March 14, 2023)

×
×
  • Create New...