wefalck

It depends really on what you would like to do with it. Serious cutting of wood, above very thin veneer, requires already quite serious equipment with a 20W+ laser probably. As others noted before, it also requires quite a bit of infrastructure, such as for cooling and ventilation. About 15 months ago I got myself a cheapo little 3W cutter/engraver at around 100€. As I am working on miniatures, the working surface of 50 mm x 50 mm is largely sufficient. However, you are basically limited to cutting thin, dark cardstock. Have a look at my S.M.S. WESPE building log, where I wrote about my trials, troubles and tribulations with it. I did make quite a few delicate bits and pieces with it. The software is bit-image based, not vectorised, which makes it simple, but there are limitations. And it does not run on a Mac. I tried with a MS Windows emulator ('Parallels'), but somehow it did not work. I run it off an old little laptop with MS Windows XP on it instead. The amount of burned-away material is small, so one doesn't need to worry too much about ventilation (until the Admiral complains) unless you try to cut some nasty materials.

A ship's rigging is not like a WW1 aircraft rigging or stringing a musical instrument. Ropes would sag under their weight in a natural 'catena' curve. OK, to many beholders that might look like shoddy work, but gives you an indication of what to aim for. So the only tension you need is to make the rope run smoothly without bends. Don't glue, bad strategy. Use dilute shellac solution or dilute nitrocellulose varnish. With a drop of solvent, you can soften any belaying point should it need adjusting. Once done, put on another drop of varnish.

Personally, I prefer 'zapon varnish', rather than shellac, because it is less brittle. Zapon varnish is cellulose nitrate dissolved in a mixture of amylacetate, ethanol, and ethylacetate. It is the varnish that is commonly used to prevent the tarnishing of silver or brass objects. It is almost invisible, but can also easily dissolved with acetone. I would be cautious to varnish rigging wholesale. Varnishing with shellac could make it rather brittle. I gather some people did it to keep humidity out of rigging. At least in central and northern Europe we tend to have now proper central heating so this is not an issue anymore. In the UK and southern Europe it is probably still different Some very dilute shellac or zapon varnish can be used to coerce certain rigging elements into the 'natural' catena curves you would see on the prototype, but for which on a model the ropes are too stiff and lightweight.

Pat, you have all my sympathies. I can appreciate your struggle. Since Christmas I have tried to make blocks that fulfill my own expectations. Sometimes following more closely the prototype can actually be simpler. I could image that milling full slots into the bits might be simpler and then to insert turned or etched sheaves. People tend to be in awe of 'real' sheaves in blocks, but from a manufacturing point of view this can be a simpler option. Keep it coming !

OK, I am tool-junkie and have lots of tools, many of them have to be handy, but not all of them, of course (but then I forget that I had them). I am currently at the 5th incarnation of my workbench after so many moves around Europe, but I created a sort of desk-like structure that has on one side a chest of drawers and the work-surface made from a piece of beechwood kitchen-top rests on the other side on a shelve inside an IKEA Billy-bookcase. The other two sides are surrounded by frames that support panes of hardboard with holes for hooks etc. On these the most frequently tools are arranged in easy reach. There are also a couple of narrow shelves on which little tools, such as dental burrs, drills etc. etc. are stored on plinths. The chest of drawers also has a box built in that is subdivided into various shallow (1 cm or 3/8" deep) drawers in which scalpels, pin-vices, files, and other delicate tools are stored within easy reach.

Years ago, when I was contempleting to use printed plank layouts on a small-scale model, I did some research on archival ink-jet and laser print-outs. There was one Web-site, where they had investigated the various models of printers and inks available for them in controlled, accelerated ageing tests. I don't have the site on my finger tips and the results, being some 15 years old are certainly outdated, but an Internet search will probably turn up some more recent information. One strategy I have been contemplating, but not actually used yet, was to print the outlines of the artwork onto a decal film (if you have a colour laser-printer you can also put colour on, of course), complete the artwork in brush and acrylics, and then transfer the decal onto the model. If you don't like it, only the decal film and your time is wasted and you don't have to scrape off the paint from the model. If you want to paint directly on the model, make yourself an arm- or wrist-rest, along the lines of those porcelain-painters use and arrange for the area of the model to be painted on to be at a comfortable angle. When painting wales etc. I would do this only, once the wood of the wale itself and the surrounding strakes has been sealed in a way compatible with the paint you are going to use. In this way no ink/paint can infiltrate into unwanted areas. My choice would be a nitrocellulose-based sanding sealer and acrylics. I would use acrylics readily diluted for airbrushing, as they can be worked like inks, but contain pigments of course. If the wales run reasonably clean, one could also mask the off and spray-paint them. I still would give them a final wash with the brush, as this somehow gives an ever so slight surface texture that looks more appropriate than a spray-painted one.

Wouldn't it have been possible to cautiously lift off the assembly just a little bit after each strake ? In this way you deal with the problem strake by strake, rather than having multiple 'sticking points'.

Yes, this is one of the various books on particular ships in which rigging details have been compiled, but it is not necessarily a book on rigging.

That's a difficult question for someone, who doesn't really know much about the 18th century practices. A general observation, however, is that several 'standard' works have been reprinted many times, sometimes over a period of 100 years or so, without substantial changes to the plates. Often plates from older works quite evidently have been copied in newer works. Having said that, Lees would be certainly on the list, because he also provides a critical historical perspective. Otherwise, the good old Steel and Lever are rather comprehensive sources. I did not search specifically for French 18th century literature, but starting from the entry on 'Marine' in Diderot's and D'Alembert's encyclopedia (which I should have included in my list, though not specifically on rigging) there are other works - the French were quite encyclopedia-minded. For more practical questions also the various handbooks on seamanship that have been published over the past 200 years or so are useful. And then of course Harland's synopsis, which is is a must-have and tells you a lot about how things were actually worked, so that one understands their function. I started the list in the late 1970s on paper, going through the bibliographic references of books, searching library catalogues wherever I could. The Internet now made the literature so much more accessible (although partly devaluating my collection of old books, because the information in them is now cheaply accessible on-line).

One should always remember, that the masts, spars and the rigging are kind of a living thing. They can be and are continuously modified to improve the performance and serviceability of a ship. Even on naval ships a lot was left to the discretion of the captain and the officers, as long as the materials provided were used. Extra materials the captain had to pay for himself. So any reconstructed rigging plan can only reflect common practices and materials of the time, nothing more, in the absence of precise sources. I would take any modern book on rigging with some caution, particularly, when it claims to cover long periods of time and diverse regions. It is unlikely that the authors are experts with such a wide coverage. It is always a good idea to check their references section in order to see what written sources they claim to have used. Having said that, I think Lee's book is quite reliable, as he substantiates his claims also with a critical assessment of the rigging of the models in the National Maritime Museum in Greenwich. Talking about written sources: by coincidence, I made a few days ago an excerpt on masting and rigging from my 130+ page literature list. It focuses on the 19th century though (my own area of interest) and does not list many older works. In the first column you will find a letter that indicates the presence of the work in own library. A B means I own a hardcopy and an E denotes an ebook. Many books on which the copyright has expired are now available as scans. A Google-search lists many of them, but Google has taken to the bad habit of listing often now modern reprints, rather than the electronic version. A certain persistence in searching is required. Another bad habit of Google is in their scanning programme to not unfold plates, which renders many scans quite useless. Search also archive.org and www.gallica.bnf.fr for French works. Many other national libraries have digitised works in their respective languages in often very good scans. I would appreciate any suggestions to complete my list below (preferably with complete bibliographic referencing): Anderson, R.C. (1952): Seventeenth century rigging.- p., (). Anderson, R.C. (1984): The Rigging of Ships - In the Days of the Spritsail Topmast 1600-1720.- 278 p., London (Conway Maritime Press). BE BIDDLECOMBE, G. (1848): The Art of Rigging.- 155 p., Salem, Ma. (Reprint 1990 by Dover Publication, New York). B BOBRIK, E. (1848): Handbuch der praktischen Seefahrtskunde, Bd. I.- 816 p., Leipzig (Verlagsbureau). B BOBRIK, E. (1848): Handbuch der praktischen Seefahrtskunde, Bd. II, I. Abtheilung.- 992 p., Leipzig (Verlagsbureau). B BOBRIK, E. (1848): Handbuch der praktischen Seefahrtskunde, Schiffgebäudekunde, Zurüstungskunde, Manövrierkunde, Ankerkunde, Tafeln zur Schifferkunde.- 604 p. + Tafelband, Leipzig (Nachdruck 1978 bei Horst Hamecher, Kassel). B BOBRIK, E. (1848): Vom Tauwerk und seiner Zubereitung zur Taakelasche (aus Handbuch der praktischen Seefahrtskunde.- 24 p., Leipzig (Nachdruck 1975 bei Verlag Egon Heinemann, Norderstedt). BOUDRIOT, J. (1975): Seventy Four Gun Ship. Volume III: Masts - Sails - Rigging.- 280 p., 13 pl., (Collection Archeologie Navale Française). E BRADY, W.W. (1852, 6th ed.): The Kedge Anchor; or Young Sailor’s Assistant. Appertaining to the Practical Evolutions of Modern Seamanship, Rigging, Knotting, Splicing, Blocks, Purchases, Running-Rigging, and Other Miscellaneus Matters Applicable to Ships of War and Others.- 400 p., New York (Published by the Author). K BRADY, W.W. (1863): Brady’s Kattanker. Handbuch für Seeleute (aus dem Englischen von J.L. Stipperger).- 247 p., 37 Tab., Hamburg (P. Salomon & Co.). E BREART, E. (18..): Manuel du Gréement et de la Manœuvre des bâtiments à voile et à vapeur. Comprenant les matières exigées pour l’obtention du Brevet de Capitaine au long cours et de Maître au cabotage.- 459+13 p., 7 pl., Paris (Librairie Scientifique, industrielle et agricole, Eugène Lacroix). B BRÉART, E. (1861): Manuel du gréement et de la mannœuvre des bâtiments à voiles et à vapeur. Premiere Partie.- 338 p., Paris (Eugène Lacroix, Editeur). B BRÉART, E. (1863): Manuel du gréement et de la mannœuvre des bâtiments à voiles et à vapeur. Deuxieme Partie. Manœuvres particulières au batiment à vapeur.- 110 p., Paris (Eugène Lacroix, Editeur). B BRÉART, E. (1864): Manuel du gréement et de la mannœuvre des bâtiments à voiles et à vapeur. Atlas.- 16 pl., Paris (Eugène Lacroix, Editeur). E BROWN, S. (1809): An Essay on Iron Rigging and Cables.- 93 p., London (printed for the author). E BUSHELL, C. (1856, 2nd ed.): The Rigger's Guide and Seaman’s Assistant Containing Practical Instructions for Completely Rigging Ships of War – Second Edition, with sixteen addtional pages on wire rigging.- 214 p., London (H. Lewis). BUSHELL, C. (1857, 3rd ed.): The Rigger's Guide and Seaman’s Assistant - Third edition. with considerable additions relative to wire rigging, formation of knots, etc.- 226 p., London (). BUSHELL, C. (1877, 6th ed.): The Rigger's Guide and Seaman’s Assistant.- xx p., London (). E BUSHELL, C. (1893, 7th ed.): The Rigger's Guide and Seaman’s Assistant; Containing Practical Instructions for Rigging Ships, with Considerable Additions Relative to Wire Rigging, Formation of Knots, etc.- 254 p., Portsmouth (Griffin & Co.). CHAPMAN, H.C., JONES, A.F. (c. 1840): Rules for the Uniform Masting and Sparring of Merchant Ships... with... Suggestions on Ships and Ship-Building.- 32 p., 1 pl., Liverpool (). E DUBREUL, P.-J. (1835): Manuel de matelotage et de manœuvre, à la usage des éléves de l´École Navale et des candidates aux places de capitane au long cours et de capitane au cabotage.- 279 p., ? pl., Paris (L’Impremerie Royale). E DUBREUL, P.-J. (1839): Manuel de matelotage et de manœuvre, à la usage des éléves de l´École Navale et des candidates aux places de capitane au long cours et de capitane au cabotage.- 285 p., IV pl., Paris (Bachelier Imprimeur-Libraire). B DUBREUL, P.-J. (1851): Manuel de matelotage et de manœuvre, à la usage des éléves de l´École Navale et des candidates aux places de capitane au long cours et de capitane au cabotage.- 342 p., 4 pl., Brest (J.-B. et A. Lefournier Libraires-Editeurs). E Cock, J. (1840): A Treatise on Mast-Making for Every Class or Description of Merchant Ships or Vessels.- 52 p., 1 pl. (missing), Pembroke (J.G. Barclay). K FINCHAM, J. (1854, 3rd ed.): A Treatise on Masting Ships & Mast Making.- 384 p., London (Nachdruck 1982, Conway Maritime Press). E GEANETTE, M.A. (1983): Mast Step and Keelson. The Early Development of a Shipbuilding Technology.- MA Thesis: 148 p., College Station (Texas A&M University). E Grange, J. (1867): Hints to Young Shipmasters in Drafting and Cutting Ships’ Rigging and Sails, Placing and Fitting Masts, etc. etc.; With a Form of Shipmasters’ Books and Accounts, and Several Useful Remarks.- 110 p., 2 Tab., Glasgow (MacGregor & Co.). E Henriquez, A. Ritter von (1873): Takelung und Manöver.- 87 p., (Schmidt). HILDEBRANDT, O. (1872): Praktisches Lehrbuch für junge Seeleute der Kriegs- und Kauffahrtei-Marine.- 354 p., 10 pl., Danzig (A.W. Kafemann). (DTM 2/91/997) B HILDEBRANDT, O. (1893): Praktisches Lehrbuch für junge Seeleute.- 430 p., 10 pl., Danzig (Ernst Gruihns Verlag). KIPPING, R. (1851): Masting and Rigging.- London. E KIPPING, R. (1853): Rudimentary Treatise on Masting, Mast-Making, and Rigging of Ships.- 150 p., London (John Weale). E KIPPING, R. (1854): Rudimentary Treatise on Masting, Mast-Making, and Rigging of Ships.- 150 p., London (John Weale). E KIPPING, R. (1864): Rudimentary Treatise on Masting, Mast-Making, and Rigging of Ships.- 169 p., London (Virtue Brothers). B KIPPING, R. (1903): Masting, Mast-Making and Rigging of Ships.- 211 p., London (Crosby, Lockwood, and Son). B LEES, J. (1979): The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War 1625-1860.- 196 p., London (Conway Maritime Press). LEHNHART VON LENNINGSFELD, P. (1895): Takelung und Ankerkunde für die k.u.k Kriegs-marine. Unter Anleitung des Militär-Hafencommandanten von Pola Contreadmiral Freiherr von Sterneck verfaßt von mehreren k.u.k. Seeoffizieren. Neu bearbeitet von p. L.v.L., k.u.k. Fregatten-Capitän.- 2 Bde., 436 p. + LXXXVII Taf., Wien (k.-k. Hof- und Staatsdruckerei). (ÖNB 260.662-B.Fid. = 108-049) B LEHNHART VON LENNINGSFELD, P. (1895): Takelung und Ankerkunde für die k.u.k Kriegs-marine. Figurentafeln. Unter Anleitung des Militär-Hafencommandanten von Pola Contreadmiral Freiherr von Sterneck verfaßt von mehreren k.u.k. Seeoffizieren. Neu bearbeitet von P. L.v.L., k.u.k. Fregatten-Capitän.- LXXXVII Taf., Wien (k.-k. Hof- und Staatsdruckerei). B LEHMANN, T. (1920): Het tuigen van schoenerschepen. Met de daarbij behoorende werkzaamheden. Eenvoudige handleiding voor den varensman.- 142 p. Amsterdam (Wereldbibliotheek, reprint 2004). B LEVER, D. (1819, 2nd ed.😞 The Young Sea Officer’s Sheet Anchor.- 124 p., London (Nachdruck 1963 bei E.W. Sweetman & Co., New York). MARQUARDT, K.H. (1986): Bemastung und Takelung von Schiffen des 18. Jahrhunderts.- 484 p., Rostock/Bielefeld (VEB Hinstorff Verlag/Verlag Delius Klasing). MARQUARDT, K.H. (1992): Eighteenth-Century Rigs & Rigging. English edition revised and expanded.- 330 p., London/Annapolis MD (Conway Maritime Press/United States Naval Institute Press, Annapolis). B MIDDENDORF, F.L. (1903): Bemastung und Takelung der Schiffe.- 401 p., Kassel (reprint 1977 by Horst Hamecher). Norie, J.W. [Ed.] (18xx): The Art of making Masts, Yards, Gaffs, Booms, Blocks, and Oars, as practised in the Royal Navy, and according to the most approved Methods in the Merchant- Service, including a Description of an improved Rule for Mast-makers; also a new Method by which large Yards may be made from small Trees, and repaired when sprung in the Slings, &c. - p., pl., London (printed for J.W. Norie and Co.). E Petersson, L. (2000): Rigging Period Ship Models. A Step-By-Step Guide to the Intricacies of the Square-Rig.- 128 p., Washington (US Naval Institute Press). B Pilaar, J.C., Mossel, G.P.J. (1858): Handleiding tot de Kennis van Tuig, Masten, Zeilen, enz. Van het Schip.- 535 p., X pl., Amsterdam (de Wed. G. Hulst van Keulen, reprint Fontes Pers, Amsterdam). SCHOMBERG, A. (1832): Practical Remarks and Observations on Building, Rigging, Arming and Equipping His Majesty’s Ships of War &c..- London (Longman) (?R 2788/10) B SCHRAGE, K. (1989): Rundhölzer, Tauwerk und Segel.- 187 p., Herford (Koehlers Verlagsgesellschaft mbH). Steel, D. [Ed.] (1794): Elements and Practice of Rigging and Seamanship.- London. B Steel, D. [Ed.] (1818): The Art of Rigging (Nachdr. 1974 Fisher Nautical Press).- 136 p., London (Steel, Goddard & Co.). B STEINHAUS, C.F. (1869): Die Construction und Bemastung der Segelschiffe.- 137 p., Hamburg (L. Friedrichsen & Co., reprint 1977 Horst Hamecher, Kassel). B UNDERHILL, H.A. (1946): Masting & Rigging the Clipper Ship & Ocean Carrier.- 304 p., Glasgow (Brown, Son & Ferguson). K UNDERHILL, H.A. (1955): Sailing Ships Rigs and Rigging.- 127 p., Glasgow (Brown, Son & Ferguson). E VERDIER, M. (1837): Nouveau manuel complet de la marine. Premiere Partie. Gréement.- 290 p., Paris (Librairie Enciclopédique de Roret).

Apart from the reasons mentioned by others, applying any kind of lacquer to the whole sheet might also make more difficult to remove the laser-cut parts, as the lacquer will run into the cut slots and act as glue.

Well, zu Mondfeld sometimes seems to have transgressed his competences and played the guru ... When I saw the title of the post, I had the same thoughts as Allen: why would one want to serve backstays and in particular over the full length ? It is always a good idea, if there is evidence missing, to take say a yard and position it in the extreme positions and then check what kind of running rigging on the sails or the sail itself might come into contact with parts of the standing rigging. Making a mental exercise, I could envisage that, when sailling high up the wind the windward clew of the main-course might touch the backstays when hauled out. Similarly when sailing almost before the wind with the spanker boom fully swung out, the boom, the gaff, and the spanker might touch the back-stay of that mast. It would make some sense to serve the respective contact areas of the rear-most backstay.

Looks shipshape !

The transom looks a rather complicated piece ... good Luck !

The effort pays off 👌

OK, you put the plank seam into the corner of the transom. I was under the impression that the plank would have to bent cross-wise and concave to fit into the corner ...

The end of this strake is going to be interesting ...

I feel almost like a heretic bringing up this subject, but have you thought of using a CAD-system such as DelftShip to develop the planking diagram ? I have been thinking of this, because I will be facing the problem soon of having to clinker-plank a boat that is only a couple of centimetres long. Traditional ways of taking off plank widths will be rather difficult to use. The planking itself will not be so difficult - some years ago I made a little dinghi about 3 cm long from Eric McKee's planking diagram in his booklet on clinker boats.

No. 5 is not actually Catrovejo scissors, but a needle-holder. I also have two pairs of Castrovejo scissors. The first, smaller one I bought some 25 years ago and it is only used for rigging to keep it sharp, so that I can cut the thinnest lines or fluff. The sliding ring ones seem to work quite well for me and I have used them a lot in recent times. In order to hold my miniature (1.4 mm long) blocks, I cut a recess into the face of the brass pads in one of them. Hand-vices where the jaw open parallel are not so easy to find, but I found these two specimens on a flea-market/ebay. New they tend to be very expensive.

Being so cheap, you can buy more and file the slots wider for bigger parts ...

I may have posted these pictures before. Below a selection of the various work-holding tools I have collected or made over the years: 1 - Archimedes drill for watchmakers. 2 - Slender modern pin-vice with hollow fluted brass body. 3 - Slender antique pin-vice with hollow fluted brass body. 4 - Shop-made pin-vice with walnut body and head made from an insert drill-chuck; these drill-chucks are unfit for their intended purpose as they usually do not run true. 5 - Eclipse toolmaker's pin-vice with knurled steel body; these come in different sizes. 6 - French-style pin-vice; these are closed with the sliding ring and have usually brass inserts in the two jaws that can be adapted to special needs; 7 - Dito, here the jaws are replaced in hard-wood for delicate parts. 8 - Antique laboratory pin-vice with fluted wooden handle. 9 - Modern pin-vice with fluted wooden handle; these come in different sizes and capacities. 10 - Antique toolmaker's pin-vice for very delicate work in confined spaces. 1 - Toolmaker's hand-held vice that is closed with a sliding ring. 2 - Hand-vice with parallel serrated jaws moved by a screw. 3 - Antique american style hand-vice; the jaws are closed by screwing in the conical body; the handle and body have been replaced. 4 - Hand-held collet-holder; this uses horological lathe collets; the advantage is that work can be transferred between the holder and the lathe when it has the nominal collet diameter. 5 - Castrovejo surgical non-locking needle-holder; they come in various sizes, this one is for eye-surgery. 6 - Antique surgical locking needle-holder; these come in a wide variety of sizes and shapes. I tend to go around flea-markets and ebay to look for antique pieces or 'seconds' from the production of professional medical tools and the likes (regular prices are just not affordable), because the quality is usually so much better than what hobby shops try to flog to us hobbyists. The problem with many pin-vices is that their jaws are serrated - not good for use on wood. Finding one with smooth jaws is not so easy. We also had a thread here some time ago on 'third hands', where people showed their home-grown ones. OK, this is something for those with the right machinery, but the ones you can buy for a few € / £ / US$ today tend to be too flimsy and imprecise. Below is the one I made myself on the basis of an inherited cast-iron lab stand. It can also double as a little vice with a function similar to those fly-tying vices. I made clamps from different materials, such as steel, brass and Novotex and the ubiquituous electrical 'crocodile' clamps can also be used. In addition, I bought some ceramic jaws as used in soldering tweezers, but did not get around to make the clamps for them yet. I also made two types of hooks to hold blocks and ropes respectly. Another useful attachment are little collect chucks that clamp from near zero up to about 3.2 mm - 1/4". These chucks with collets can be found on ebay at around 2€ or so. They are useless for their intended purpose, but good for holding wires and other round objects - even thin flat objects, as they are slotted cross-wise.

David, you made me doubt for a moment and I went to the workshop, put a marker-pen dot on one side of mine and started counting: there are definitely five sides. Broaches always have an unequal number of cutting edges to avoid chatter. This applies to machine broaches even more.

Good move, but pay attention, there are actually two kinds, the five-sided cutting broaches and the round smoothing broaches. They also come in different size categories, the smalles for watch work and the largest (up to about 6 mm) for clock work. Watchmakers supply houses have them, but these days they can also found on ebay etc.

You may also want to make yourself a clamp with a depression at the front for holding the block, while working on it. Think of a wooden clothes peg cut flat at the front so that closing part is really right at the front. The pegs are cheap, so can make yourself several to accomodate different sizes of blocks and in different orientation. You may need to increase the holding force by winding a rubber band around the front.

Hier is an example of a rivetting wheel as used by jewellers and dental technicians, randomly taken from the internet (Busch is a well-known brand that is internationally available): Cutting the grooves into pulley sheaves is easy, you just need to grind youself a pointed lathe tool with a rounded nose.