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Mike Y

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Posts posted by Mike Y

  1. However, I decided to make rabbet much later, when all main frames would be cut.

    Before it, would be hard to determine the proper angle of the rabbet, how planks will go. I am not going to glue the frames before they are all cut anyway :)

     

    Assembled all parts on a framing jig:

    post-5430-0-04665600-1413127666_thumb.jpg

     

    It nicely decorates the modeling area :)

    post-5430-0-30158800-1413127761_thumb.jpg

     

    Now I know how to make a nice frames, keel is ready, so let's make some sawdust and produce all remaining frames!

    Luckily that model will have just 40 frames, due to a bigger (non-correct) spacing between them, so hope to make it in 3-4 months. Winter is coming! :)

  2. Thanks everybody for the advices, it is really much easier than I thought :)

    After a lot of experimenting with scrap wood, it turned out that scrapers will not give a straight enough line. There should be something that ignores the grains and goes straight.

    So I ended up with a following process, not saying it is the only correct one.

     

    Use flat chisel to set the straight line for the rabbet, making two cutoff lines.

    post-5430-0-83615700-1413127354_thumb.jpg

     

    Cut away the wood between those lines with a blade:

    post-5430-0-41080200-1413127362_thumb.jpg

     

    Use triangular file to shape the rabbet. Do straight passes:

    post-5430-0-83351900-1413127368_thumb.jpg

     

    That triangular file was the key part, it keeps the straight line, not going sideways due to a wood grain.

    Also if you need to add an angle to the rabbet - just change the angle of the file:

    post-5430-0-73563400-1413127508_thumb.jpg

     

    post-5430-0-08150700-1413127539_thumb.jpg

     

     

     

  3. Removed the nasty laser char. In hindsight, it is good that I selected a timbering set without laser cut frames, the char removal process is messy and definitely not pleasant. In his youtube videos, Dave recommends to remove the char using the shaving blade. It works only to small extent, because char is pretty deep in the wood.

     

    Here are the laser cut pieces on a different phased of cleaning:

    post-5430-0-03441500-1412664693_thumb.jpg

     

    Another issue is a bad precision of a laser at some lines, they are cut with "steps", so lots of wood should be filed away to make that surface smooth:

    post-5430-0-97167400-1412664796_thumb.jpg

     

    Some joints are too wide - they fit tightly with char, but if you start to remove the char (and the "steps") - then the joint is too weak: 

    post-5430-0-09795600-1412664867_thumb.jpg

     

    So I cut away that joint and scratched a new one :)

     

    Another improvement was a deadwood - supplied laser cut deadwood was made of a single piece, which is too far from desired level of correctness. So I made a better one. 

    But it was a hell of a job to nicely fit all the curved timbers together! It is easy to make a tight fit when parts are straight, but when they are curved - it really needs a skill. Here is how ugly it looks when just cut:

     

    post-5430-0-17951900-1412665088_thumb.jpg

     

    Next time will try to cut smoother... It took around 4 hours of sanding and filing and sending and filing to make them fit. 

    Resulting fitting is not great, but next time will do better:

     

    post-5430-0-95216100-1412665492_thumb.jpg

  4. Yep, saw in the Swan or Echo build logs, that Jeff's pear is quite different indeed. Darker, more cherry-ish :)

    Next frame, this time I am an idiot. Missed a tiny crack on a frame blank, after sanding it is becoming very clear: 

    post-5430-0-63964600-1411416082_thumb.jpg

    post-5430-0-69820000-1411416088_thumb.jpg

     

    The colour variation of a brighter/darker pear might be actually good. Hard to say, need to make at least 10-15 frames and dry-fit them, to see how it really looks together.

     

    Now the plan is simple - assemble the keel, install 4 "key" frames (I selected frames 4, 10, 16, 23), make sure that everything is measured correctly - and then start a frame mass-production! :)

  5. Ok, I probably was too emotional while writing previous post. Reviewed all planks today, separating them into "normal" and "trash it" piles.

    31% of planks are defected (big grey areas, etc). Luckily, on most of them defect takes around half of the plank, so in total I am going to trash around 15-20% of planks. That would be probably ok, because I am hoping that there was a reserve for oopsies.

    Close-up of defected wood:

    post-5430-0-40237900-1411409389_thumb.jpg

    post-5430-0-75343600-1411409416_thumb.jpg

     

    Normal wood:

    post-5430-0-45224400-1411409442_thumb.jpg

     

    Even without grey spots, note the colour deviation on a "normal" pile.

    it is clear that Lumberyard have a "prime" wood, that is used for laser cut parts. They are really good - quite consistent dark colour, amazing:

    post-5430-0-19569900-1411409502_thumb.jpg

    For some reason, for frame blanks Lumberyard use second sort pear. That is fully understandable, with Hahn method most of the wood package is a wood for frame blanks, and using cheaper wood probably makes a big different cost-wise. 

    But I would appreciate if they just offer a prime wood for frame blanks, for extra cost..

     

    Will continue with that wood for a while. If after 10 frames it would be obvious that this wood is too bad - will recycle all frames and make a new ones with a wood from Hobbymill. I saw their swiss pear in a various build logs, and it is very consistent in colour. And I have boxwood from Hobbymill, which is the best would I ever saw. No problem with it, happy customer.

     

    P.S.: I have no intention on blaming Lumberyard, but it would be fair to post a photos of a wood that you get in a package. Sorry for rant, but it is quite disappointing to feel the second rate customer, who got the second rate wood.  

  6. Finished 4 frame blanks and cut 4 frames in total. 

    Last blanks were laminated using really strong clamps, that squeeze the glue under blanks like the previous clamps were not able to do.

    post-5430-0-22203200-1411301896_thumb.jpg

     

    Surprisingly, I cannot find any difference in lamination quality when I look on a cut frames. Thickness and consistency of lamination looks the same. Probably I was overthinking it :)

    What turned out to be more important is an edge joint of a blank pieces - they should fit really tight, my table saw can't give such a clean cut, so on a last few blanks I used a belt sander to make sure that joints are perfectly tight. And that is visible on a frames.

     

    However, I will need to trash one frame. It is all due to the ugly grey spots on a frame blank stock. When sanded, they look even uglier. On a right side of a photo - healthy swiss pear, on a left side - smoker's pear :)

     

    post-5430-0-16475000-1411301726_thumb.jpg

     

    Seriously, why are they included in the timbering package? What am I expected to do with such wood? It is not suitable for a modelling, I will just trash all the wood with that grey areas, and there are quite a lot of planks with that defect :(

    Or I am being picky? Don't think so, the defects in the wood are striking. 

  7. Thanks for the information, Allan! It is a pity that there is no even brief description on seawatchbooks website. Just some "volume", whatever that means. Only the last volume is clearly described as "masting and rigging".

    That might actually stop people from buying a book because they are not sure what is inside..

    Sorry for the rant :)

     

    I was going to buy only the first volume, because I was unsure if I need a second one. Now I know it, thanks to Allan, so I will buy first two volumes. Just a bit of extra information => plus one book in the customer order :)

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