Craigie65

She is a lovely ship; excellent, clean build. The flag is very realistic, how did you do that?

You have given me the inspiration to get back on with my current build - thank you.

Looking forward to your next log. 

Don’t know if this helps, but in the AOTS for Diana this is labelled as the sheer line 

Beautiful!

Sturdy little thing isn’t she. 

Enjoy your holiday and try not to think of your shipyard too much!

I love these kits. 

It is amazing how far you can get in an afternoon. 

Looking forward to see this one planked.

Always been fascinated by a cross section model.

If you don’t mind I will pull up a chair.

Strange I have “Signature” below Content view Behavior

maybe one of the moderators can chime in here?

Hello Pierre,

Click on your avatar to go to your account.  At the top of the background banner you should see account settings. 

Click on that.

On the left hand side you should see a list - at the bottom is signature.

You can add the info there

Wiki was in your face - big section saying they needed donations.

TBH I didn’t see the green strap line, too easy to overlook.

Pulling up a chair.

looking forward to the build Andrew

Wow!

Looks first class to me, you are doing a grand job.  You cannot see any bleed in the pictures, even when blown up.  We are often our own harshest critics.  The colour scheme is really striking. I do like that shade of green.

Looking forward to her being fitted out.

Hey Dan,

Found your log and will pull up the proverbial chair.

Looking good so far, she has really sharp lines.

On the coppering, my vote would be for the pre cut plates.  Don’t fancy having to cut all those individually from a roll of tape……

Excellent work.

Nice touch with the ensign.

Probably not far off with 100mm, I am sure someone will chime in with a definitive answer.

Given the deck planking will have a shift pattern I find it easier to work with a length that easily divides by the number of shifts.  

6 hours ago, Gregory said:

helpful

Gregory,

You are absolutely right for a cutter, but I think Speedy and Flirt are square rigged?

The rigging does look daunting when it is complete.  But building it up line by line, mast by mast it becomes relatively straight forward.  Vanguard instructions will keep you right.  

If you don’t have it Lennarth Petersson’s Rigging Period Ship Models is a good investment.  Whilst there is no text the drawings are very clear and are a good supplement to kit drawings. 

That lathe is a godsend!

not sure I would have taken the fixtures off, may prove tricky to get back in.

looking forward to seeing the Grecian taking shape.  This and the new cutter are soooooo tempting, but I will never get them past the Admiral!

I presume you mean on warships? Depends on the ship and nationality, but I believe it was to hide the blood. Not sure how effective that was as they did not paint the decks red!

Lovely clean work.

Hope you are enjoying the change up from fishing smacks!

Nearly time for the mast and those lovely ratlines 😜

Try Sovereign Hobbies colour coats. Link Here

they are enamel but I have found they spray well if properly thinned.  They also have colour guides for most of the well known ships

White Ensign also has a description of the colours Here

Wonderful how you turn out these new vessels.  You are a machine Mr W!

Very interesting design. Looking forward to seeing this one being developed 

Hi,

tie a simple overhand knot at one end of your line to stop it from being pulled through the yoke. Pull it taut and tie a knot at the other end.

@mgdawson

a picture paints a thousand words, or a hundred in the case of my description

Glomar,

No problem.

Yes it is a single line.

Glomar,

sorry when you said you were having problems with tying knots I assumed you meant the block. 

Do you mean how the line runs?

The rigging in the bottom left starts with the line being seized to the becket (you can just about see the small loop in the plan) at the bottom of the block tied to the boom. It is then led down and through the lower block, back up the and through the top block, back down to the bottom block and then through the top block. The line is led to belaying point 2 which is the rail at the back of the ship. The first plan you posted shows the belaying point. You will find it helpful to dip the running end of the rigging thread in CA to create a needle - it make it easier to pass through the blocks. Also watch for the blocks twisting - the ropes should be parallel. If they twist it usually means you have threaded the line through the block back to front!

The one attached to the mast runs from the bottom eyelet, then follow the arrows down through the first block on the boom and back up to the lower block on the mast and so on until you lead the end to belaying point 4, at the foot of the mast.

 Does that help?