ASAT

Alan,
 
From my recollection and re-checking my build log photos, your gunport pattern appears to be at the right height; the bow is like that. You definitely need to do some beveling where it fits into the rabbet. 
 
With regard to the pattern not touching the full length of the extension, just spot glue at the top and bottom and don't try to follow the curve. The extensions get cut away anyway, and I believe Caldercraft kept the gluing surface small to make that easier. 
 
Good progress. 

Thanks, Bill!
 
I completed the first 3 strakes of planking below the wale using holly.  I am planning treeenails, but not at the location of every single frame that would appear on a set of plans.  Too busy looking.  I'll add the treenails to the locations of the bulkheads only.  Stylized, but still giving the effect I'm looking for.
 
The toughest part of the planking is about done.  To this point the upper hull planking, wales, and first three strakes below the wales have had to be applied to the extreme bluff bow - almost semi-circular in plan view.  Below this point, the hull starts to approximate a more conventional bow shape, like the AVS.  To this point the planks at the bow require significant edge-bending  downward to fit flat.  I did that with a clothing iron.  Much less of that coming up, although tapering will be necessary for nearly every strake at the bow.

Jeremy,
 
There are a few information on the WEB about this beautiful model:
 
http://thunderboats.ning.com/forum/topics/construction-methods-and?commentId=6315479%3AComment%3A26214
 
as well as numerous pictures. The picture below shows some of the external rivets/nails. I am not sure that is what you are looking for.
 

 
Have you tried contacting AMATI for help?
 
Good luck.
Yves

I think I will post a few pics while the glue dries.
 
 

    Cockpit work is complete and hull planking begins.  Here, sheer strake has been installed n the starboard side and I am now installing the wale.  (Note:  I went with the Smithsonian plans of having 1 strake above the wale.)  A slight bevel on the upper edge of the wale and it fits snug with no gaps.  You can never have too many clamps.
 
 

    One thing I like to do when I am working with planking is to mark the plank on the inside as to where it goes.  Sometimes (well, 95% is some) when working with more than 1 plank I get confused.  preparing a plank for one spot and putting it in another is a waste of time.
 
 
 
   
    Here, the shipyard has a double shift on duty so I can get the starboard aft wale installed while also getting the port forward sheer strake installed.  Team Home Depot versus Team Office Depot.  Did I mention you cannot ever have too many clamps?
 
 

    Team Office Depot clamp brings pressure from the bottom and the side, helping scootch the plank into place.  Sometimes Team Home Depot needs to pitch in when the thingamabob on top doesn't apply enough pressure for the foreman's wishes.  Dang!!!  A gob of glue I missed!!!
 
    This rig was featured in a build log somewhere else on MSW.

Thanks for the advice everyone - after sleeping on it - I may hold off on the mill for now.  I think a smarter investment is a high end set of chisels and a sharpening system.  I've got my Byrnes Sanders/Table saw, a Preac Saw, a Wood River Spindle Sander and a Delta Scroll Saw.  Eventually I will need to buy a lathe

Think I've got a bit of catching up to do.  Firstly, heres the Captain Cook Monument in Waimea, no undercooked beef wellington shots in this one   .  Found the beach he landed at, nothing special but couldn't locate the plaque that allegedly marks the spot according to guide books.
 

 
I have managed at least an interim milestone, the completion of the starboard copper...this task just goes on and on
 
Couple of items I've found to be helpful:
Super Solvent - I've found this product to be highly effective at getting rid of any CA glue residue (at least the Admiralty Pro thick stuff).  Wiping over the surface of any potential smearing is usually enough Some plates plates require very acute angles to be cut and when using scissors (which I find by far the easiest), the ends tend to curl and distort horribly.  I found that cutting these as part of a larger section this problem is eliminated, although care is needed still to separate them.
 
And the results.  Some of the photos are before I cleaned to plates with copper cleaner, which I did to ensure that there was no CA residue anywhere.  These will need to be done again once all the plates are on as I can guarantee more finger prints.  Managed to do the copper plate pattern at the bow that seems to be prevalent on so many models and AOTS drafts, slight discrepancies in the plates will only become less noticeable as the copper ages and darkens.  Overall I'm very happy with the Amati plates, and slight plate misalignments that just seem to be inevitable when using CA glue are tolerable.  Not sure I could do it any better if I were to do it again, so I think that's the yardstick to meaure to.
 
At the bow, I plated the cutwater first and tried to shape the plates on the planking to match the required curve.  Its far from perfect but will do.  I think these areas are inherently limited given the thickness of the plates, I suspect using copper tape would allow a more scale appearance.
 
I drilled some small holes in the waterline batten to simulate nails and highlighted with pencil, these are not to scale but felt it gives it a little bit more functional relevance.
 

 
Et voila!  The pinkish hue of freshly cleaned copper reminded me on the AOTS Diana picture, I was very pleased with the lines that appear once the waterline is apparent. Obviously next step is to continue with the other side.... 
 

Hey Bob, great build you have there. I'm just getting back to the site after a summer away, I'll have to get caught up on this build. So glad to see you still building! I always enjoy your work!

I am also waiting for the Bellona kit as well. I know the last time Chris had corresponded on this newsgroup he had other models in line for release before the Bellona but I do hope it gets released sooner than later. the combination of the level of detail and scale of the model made it a perfect kit of the Bellona and leaves it open for any potential detailing as well,
 
Mike Draper

After my last update, I began work on the inboard planking, but realized that I needed more wood from Crown in order to complete it. While waiting for that order, I decided to start on some of the "fun stuff" --  the deck furniture that will be necessary to do the deck planking. To this point, I have made up the two hatches, the base for the galley stack, the small grating at the stern and the companionway. I still need to do the skylight.
 
The gratings were done using Chuck's cambered grating material. The coamings were constructed and then shaped to match the deck camber and the curve of the gratings. The companionway was made of edge glued strip with some interior corner bracing. I used a pencil on one side of each plank.  The hinges are from Chuck's little kit and the handles are made 
from brass rings and eyebolts. I have decided to leave all of the furniture items in natural wood with a coat of Wipe-on Poly. I prefer the look and believe that there will be sufficient contrast with the holly that I am using for the deck planking to provide some interest.
 
Photos of the deck items are attached. Photos of the inboard planking won't be posted until it is completed.
 
Bob

Wales:
 
Thanks for support and interest chaps.  Started building up the wales, rather than putting these on over the 2nd planking as the instructions say, I want to build these up first and then have the lines of the 2nd planking follow the wales.  I know that this will definitely require some spiling at the bow, but would like to give it a go.
 
Looking at many pictures of the Artois models, the position of the wale seems very important.  I decided to use the waterline as the basis for positioning this for a couple of reasons:
Eliminate any potential issues creeping in because of differences in gunport positions between the model and plans, and also with AOTS.  After countless measurements, I'm convince that the upward curve of the upper deck is slight less than indicated in the plans, however, this really shouldn't cause any issues. Establish a point of consistent point of reference to ensure both sides are as symmetric as possible.  Gunport ply patterns definitely have their challenges, but they do provide a little more consistency as an upside. First attempt resulted in failure and stripping off of the wale, all because I had let the hull tilt over when marking the waterline which resulted in a 3mm difference, not noticeable until I tried to position the second side......  ​.  This is where I was thankful I was using PVA glue as the offending strips could be removed without too much damage with rubbing alcohol and a little filler.  One item I noticed by accident was that the load line requires the stern to be slightly lower than the bow, I estimated approx. 6mm.  The wale position was determined by placing some short lengths of wood strip 2mm above waterline at low point and  plank upwards to establish the topmost edge at this point and then estimate position while ensuring a smooth curve.
 
Last tricky point was the shape of the wale at the bow.  Although the AOTS Diana book does not illustrate this, I have to assume that the wale would flatten slight at the stem from looking at contemporary models.  This was trickier to do than simply allowing the strip to follow the line of the hull, but possible with 1x3mm strip and patience.
 
Next step will be to build up the thickness of the wale before continuing with second planking.
 

Wow Jason,
 
You make a lot of good progress !!!!!!
I think I've bin away to long !
But i'm back ( only reading, not building yet )
 
Sjors

Hi Chuck
 
I am glade to see that you are using laserboard instead of PE. It's easy to work with,glue  and it holds paint. And after they are painted who's to know what they are made of. 
 
You must feel realy great about the laser cutter you now have and how you to creat new product to sell as you are building this ship and that you have the means to cut them. 
 
Keith

I'm working on the planking above the wales.  I have one more plank on each side at the bow before the main rail goes on.  I've enlarged the gun ports to their final size.  You can see the swiss pear framing for the ports that matches the planned inner bulwark planking.   Jonathan or any other kit bashers:  Any tips on how best to make the scraper to form the profile on the main rail?
 
Dave

Jerry,
 
As mentioned above, Grandt Line may have something you can use:  http://www.grandtline.com/products/arch/quarter/quarter_scale_architectural_windows.html 
 
As far as using a plastic detail on a wooden ship model, I'm not sure what's "acceptable".  It would seem to me if it's OK to use metal castings, it would be OK to use an odd plastic part if there were no viable wood alternative.  But, being new to this wooden ship endeavor myself . . . I may be branded a heretic for that suggestion.
 
Erik

10.6.2015 Main mast shrouds and deadeye lanyards completed.

I sand a little bit after every four or five planks.  Then I apply one coat of wipe-on-poly.  It helps to keep it clean with the wipe on poly.  Then after the entire side is planked....its sanded down and finished again.  Then once again after treenailing.

Thanks...I plan on doing just that.   I want to do one on lining off a hull as well as the planking itself.   But sadly....it will have to wait until I start another hull.  Whenever that will be.  I would never sell it.  I would just post here on MSW.

Continue with the beakhead bulkhead

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 
Jack

Hello and thanks marsalv for warm words!
 
not much to show, only a little update: have worked on chain pump handles, so there the result. The images show main steps from alignment to installing. The axle is from 1mm brass rod, the crank handles from 0,8mm rod, all soldered together.
 

 

 

 

 
Alex

Oh my where did it get them?
 
The diamond files were either Micro Mark or Model Expo. The metal files were from a local hobby shop. I think.

I added the first two strakes below the wales.  This was to get the drop plank out of the way.  The drop plank was shaped from a piece of card stock first just to get the hang of it.  After I was satisfied that it fit OK I  cut the real ones from wide stock the same thickness as the planking.  They were pre shaped as you can see.  You can also see my pencil on the edge to simulate the tarred seams. Now I will line off the remainder of the hull into two belts and finish the planking.  I also painted the first of many layers of red paint on the counter at the stern.
 
Chuck
 

 

 

 

 

Hi Lou,
 
That's a very nice looking frame! I agree with Greg in that I think the chock would be oriented for maximum strength (ie grain parallel to the futtocks). The coloured glue does make a nice contrast, if that is the look you are after. While it does look nice, I think I'm going to stick with straight glue for mine.
 
Interesting that you should comment on the lack of "like" notifications - I seem to be missing them as well.
 
Keep up the good work - I hope to back at mine this weekend.

Hello all,
 
Well I’m happy to say I’ve completed the planking on the portside too. No stealers or drop planks this
side either. All that is needed now is a good deal of sanding and then some wipe on poly. I have to say
planking this way is more time consuming but it works so much better and the run of the planks is much
easier to maintain. Definitely the way I will plank from here on out!
 

 

 
One thing I want to point out is that I handle a model a lot when I’m working on it. 
Because of this I would inadvertently rub off some of the pencil marks. To make sure
I didn’t lose the main belt line mark I used a sharpie to mark them. Then if I accidently
rubbed off any markings I could go back to the main mark and redo them.
 
After I check the hull over and make sure it’s all set I will move on to the stern.

Thanks.....  That is still the plan.  As soon as I complete the exterior planking with the square tuck and write the first few chapters of the monograph (which will be posted on my site as a free download)   the plans will be released.

I was able to shape the fashion pieces today.  They are will be in one piece with the boom crutch added separately later.  The boom crutches wont be added until the cap rail is added way down the road.   For now I just left them extra long so I can file them back to where I want them. You can see in the photo how the bottom fashion piece was bent using heat.....no water or soaking.  The top one is the flat 1/16" thick piece which has not been bent yet.
 
Once these were glued on the model,   the second layer of the wales (two strakes) were added and painted.  I still have to paint them on the other side.  After thats done I will treenail above the wales.  That will be easier to do before I add the fancy molding along the sides of the hull per the plan.
 
Notice how the fashion piece covers the end grain of the planks on the stern transom.  When the stern is all done there shouldnt be any end-grain exposed for any of the planking.  The fashion piece and square tuck protect them from the elements.