kruginmi

I just got this book for Father's Day from my son and I wanted to add my very favorable impressions from page 1 to page 197.  Incredible, just simply incredible.
 
I read half the book last night, finishing it up today.  The pictures are numerous, spot on and just simply go on and on.  As a builder of a plank on frame model I found this insight into an original 3 decker build very informative and will help me going forward.  For example it is okay to simplify some structures (the one piece after cistern as an example), or have a non functioning tiller.  It is okay to use 'SWOPEM'  (Situation Where One Part Equals Many).  Great to see was the presentation of 'Nobody's Perfect.'  A pictorial of things found on the model that were obvious mistakes or modifications made to account for fit by the original builder was awesome.  They happen to everyone and glad to see (once again) it is okay to keep them on the model.
 
My only 'regret' (maybe too harsh) is that the middle deck memory board (picture taken form directly above) is only one page in size, whereas the rest are a full two pages in size.  I would LOVE to have access to these pics in a digital format.  SO much to take in and learn from.
 
I expect to pick this book up many times.  When things are going slow, when I need some inspiration or I am figuring out how to advance my build in a particular area. 
 
A wonderful resource, a wonderful read and a book that I will keep close at hand.  I highly recommend, especially those that are either in a PoF build, or have one under their belt.  So much information about the internals of a ship model.
 
Mark

I just got this book for Father's Day from my son and I wanted to add my very favorable impressions from page 1 to page 197.  Incredible, just simply incredible.
 
I read half the book last night, finishing it up today.  The pictures are numerous, spot on and just simply go on and on.  As a builder of a plank on frame model I found this insight into an original 3 decker build very informative and will help me going forward.  For example it is okay to simplify some structures (the one piece after cistern as an example), or have a non functioning tiller.  It is okay to use 'SWOPEM'  (Situation Where One Part Equals Many).  Great to see was the presentation of 'Nobody's Perfect.'  A pictorial of things found on the model that were obvious mistakes or modifications made to account for fit by the original builder was awesome.  They happen to everyone and glad to see (once again) it is okay to keep them on the model.
 
My only 'regret' (maybe too harsh) is that the middle deck memory board (picture taken form directly above) is only one page in size, whereas the rest are a full two pages in size.  I would LOVE to have access to these pics in a digital format.  SO much to take in and learn from.
 
I expect to pick this book up many times.  When things are going slow, when I need some inspiration or I am figuring out how to advance my build in a particular area. 
 
A wonderful resource, a wonderful read and a book that I will keep close at hand.  I highly recommend, especially those that are either in a PoF build, or have one under their belt.  So much information about the internals of a ship model.
 
Mark

I just got this book for Father's Day from my son and I wanted to add my very favorable impressions from page 1 to page 197.  Incredible, just simply incredible.
 
I read half the book last night, finishing it up today.  The pictures are numerous, spot on and just simply go on and on.  As a builder of a plank on frame model I found this insight into an original 3 decker build very informative and will help me going forward.  For example it is okay to simplify some structures (the one piece after cistern as an example), or have a non functioning tiller.  It is okay to use 'SWOPEM'  (Situation Where One Part Equals Many).  Great to see was the presentation of 'Nobody's Perfect.'  A pictorial of things found on the model that were obvious mistakes or modifications made to account for fit by the original builder was awesome.  They happen to everyone and glad to see (once again) it is okay to keep them on the model.
 
My only 'regret' (maybe too harsh) is that the middle deck memory board (picture taken form directly above) is only one page in size, whereas the rest are a full two pages in size.  I would LOVE to have access to these pics in a digital format.  SO much to take in and learn from.
 
I expect to pick this book up many times.  When things are going slow, when I need some inspiration or I am figuring out how to advance my build in a particular area. 
 
A wonderful resource, a wonderful read and a book that I will keep close at hand.  I highly recommend, especially those that are either in a PoF build, or have one under their belt.  So much information about the internals of a ship model.
 
Mark

I just got this book for Father's Day from my son and I wanted to add my very favorable impressions from page 1 to page 197.  Incredible, just simply incredible.
 
I read half the book last night, finishing it up today.  The pictures are numerous, spot on and just simply go on and on.  As a builder of a plank on frame model I found this insight into an original 3 decker build very informative and will help me going forward.  For example it is okay to simplify some structures (the one piece after cistern as an example), or have a non functioning tiller.  It is okay to use 'SWOPEM'  (Situation Where One Part Equals Many).  Great to see was the presentation of 'Nobody's Perfect.'  A pictorial of things found on the model that were obvious mistakes or modifications made to account for fit by the original builder was awesome.  They happen to everyone and glad to see (once again) it is okay to keep them on the model.
 
My only 'regret' (maybe too harsh) is that the middle deck memory board (picture taken form directly above) is only one page in size, whereas the rest are a full two pages in size.  I would LOVE to have access to these pics in a digital format.  SO much to take in and learn from.
 
I expect to pick this book up many times.  When things are going slow, when I need some inspiration or I am figuring out how to advance my build in a particular area. 
 
A wonderful resource, a wonderful read and a book that I will keep close at hand.  I highly recommend, especially those that are either in a PoF build, or have one under their belt.  So much information about the internals of a ship model.
 
Mark

I agree with Mark's assessment of the book (and the model). It certainly is inspirational!

In my last Revell Constitution I replaced wood deadeyes and rope lanyards, rope shrouds and ratlines and fabric furled sails. She sits proudly in my brother in law's office.

I think Revell instructions got cheap as the years went by. It may help you to find supplementary instructions from a more sophisticated set of plans. Some of the rigging parts may have to be replaced or modified. I'm thinking of the deadeye arrangements and the pre formed ratlines.  Bluejacket Constitution rigging plans are very comprehensive and may help you out if you can find a set or buy them from Bluejacket if they are not too dear.

I've had 2 Constitutions and 2 United States kits since 1971 and have never seen the more "verbose" version of the rigging instructions.  They must be newer versions.
 
 

Interesting change.  This was the ship that started my hobby.  I ended up rigging the model in much more detail than the kit using other sources, but always went back to check against the kit instructions because of their clarity.  Still think this is a great model kit.
Marc

I currently have 3 kits of the 1/96 Revell Constitution.  The original was started by my Father prior to his passing that I have recently pulled out to finish.  The other two I have picked up for missing and / or extra parts in the build (warpage, etc).  What I didn't expect to see was the difference in rigging instructions.  The good news is that essentially they say the same thing, one set goes about it more verbally while the other set is more visually based (this set also had separate sheets for with or without sails).  I provide the following comparisons:
 

I actually see them as complimentary, though I give the edge to the (I believe older) set that is more visual.  Drawing out each mast separately keeps the whoops factor minimized.  Just throwing this out there for other 1/96 Revell builders for their information.
 
Mark

I currently have 3 kits of the 1/96 Revell Constitution.  The original was started by my Father prior to his passing that I have recently pulled out to finish.  The other two I have picked up for missing and / or extra parts in the build (warpage, etc).  What I didn't expect to see was the difference in rigging instructions.  The good news is that essentially they say the same thing, one set goes about it more verbally while the other set is more visually based (this set also had separate sheets for with or without sails).  I provide the following comparisons:
 

I actually see them as complimentary, though I give the edge to the (I believe older) set that is more visual.  Drawing out each mast separately keeps the whoops factor minimized.  Just throwing this out there for other 1/96 Revell builders for their information.
 
Mark

Doing some clean up when I looked at my bench and smiled. The way things ought to be. 

So today was figuring out the rigging color to use for the blocks themselves.  I also decided to delve into some more of the fancy camera settings that I have never used.  Both were successful.  Having things magnified so much, I provide some reference pics of the blocks themselves.
I have decided to use the more traditional black main line with tan for seizing.  As a last shot I couldn't help but add a pic of the block on a special business card, one holding a shot of my HMS Druid.

Stay Building My Friends, -Mark

So after hours of fighting very small blocks and big fingers trying to figure out how to attach them effectively and consistently, I had the great idea to check out the rigging section of this site.
 
One video later complexity solved.  Wow, I can actually do this.  I did lose one of those 1/8" blocks into the carpet monster (note to self) but I am very happy (and don't need wire).  Color of the  thread used just for practice purposes. 
 

Big day today. The hull is complete. Only rigging and sails left. A lot of learning and techniques to master. 

Some more of the fiddly bits.  Every day I am trying to move the ball forward.  Today was the catheads and water casks.
 
For the catheads I used a dowel to add faux disks and then capped everything off with a piece of walnut and sanded the edges.  These still need to be sealed and clear coated.

For the casks I opted for the method used on the mast iron bands.  I cut and sanded off the provided rings (seen on upper cask) then used scrapbooking black paper cut in strips to re-install.  Pretty happy with the result, and less than an hour total.  Still need to clear coat.  The key for the rings was to apply painters tape at the edge of each ring prior to gluing (one at a time).  Once on correctly, the band was glued up and put on the cask butting against the tape.  Worked like a charm.

Stay Building My Friends,  -Mark

Methodically working through the chain plates.  I definitely got faster as time (and repetition) added up.  I ended up modifying my approach by going to a thinner wrap wire and wrapping ends around brass holder piece.  I also put back the window bars on the aft crew house.  Time for some clean up and to tidy up loose ends (like the cathead caps).  
Interviews went pretty well, but of course success means moving on to the next interview phase.  I don't know if I will need to move or not so am restricted to what I can do.  My hope is to finish enough that I can take (masts down) to the next location and start working rigging without any construction left if required.  However, working the Lady Anne is a great stress reliever for me.
 
-Mark

Doing some clean up when I looked at my bench and smiled. The way things ought to be. 

Doing some clean up when I looked at my bench and smiled. The way things ought to be. 

I wanted to add a couple comments having received this book as a birthday gift recently.  He has built a beautiful ship.  Being an owner of the TFFM series (well used for my Druid) this is a great addition for his extensive treatment of quarter galleries and expanded headwork.
 
As I plan out my next build (or two, or three) I thought a fire ship is a little off of the beaten path and perfect for the desired 1/48th scale I like.  For those people like myself I make the following fireship specific notes on this book:
- He clearly states in the preface that the included plans are specific to the hull.  There are no deck plans or furniture defined (firedeck or weatherdeck).  There is strictly a planking plan for the weather deck
- He defines the plan number required to procure these from the Royal Museum.  I was able to go the museum site and look at a reduced sample.  Having this available greatly aided reading and understanding the supplied text.  For building you will absolutely need to buy this addition.
- I do like the treatment of the fire port arrangements.  Pictures with accompanying graphics really help to drive home how it works.
- I wish more of the same was supplied for the fire troughs.  While there are oblique views (of his build on the Museum firedeck plan) some more graphics would have helped.  He talks at length about trestles (the method of raising the troughs off of the deck) but nothing to accompany to show his solution.  I would have loved to see some more exploded diagrams.
- He chose not to include any examples of the actual incendiaries (fire barrels, barras, and bavins / reeds).  He does reference a ship that does show this and I was able to view reduced images of it on line.  Once again, some drawn diagrams would have been extremely helpful to understand layout and conventional practice.  I am still 'assuming' that nothing was present between the fire troughs.
 
A very useful book in the TFFM line.  Also a very good resource for information about fire ships but just know that additional material will be required.
-Mark

Onto the rudder hinges.  The generic hardware provided with the kit just didn't do it for me and with the success of the built ones for the Druid I really had no choice (hah hah) but to go down the same route.
 
First up was cutting strips for the 4 hinges required.  My raw brass sheet was wide enough to provide enough strip for each hinge set.
 

 
Simply define the width and run the blade over this line a few times.  I then gently wrap this edge over the edge of a piece of wood using gentle hammer strokes followed by returning it flat.  Then I grab it with my small pliers and with a little wiggle the strip snaps off.  I had previously bought a brass tube and rod that perfectly fits inside for the hinge mechanism.
 
For silver soldering there has been lots of posts but essentially the ingredients are:
 

 
Acetone for cleaning the brass, water for cooling after, flux (the right stuff), the silver solder pieces and finally the torch.
 
The tube was first soldered to the strip and then cut to size.  After repeating this eight times I then soldered four rods for the mating pieces.
 

 
After it was all done (less than an hour) I did an initial bend and everything looks good.  Still some refinement but another hour or so and these will be ready for blackening.  The original kit piece is in the upper left.
 

 
Very solid (and permanent).  It will look like a million bucks soon.  Next step is to drill holes for the bolts, bend to shape and get them configured to the hull.
 
Stay building my friends,
Mark

Thanks Eamonn,
 
When i decided to work 'outside the box' one of my requirements was for it be visually appealing.  I change things on the fly if they don't quite seem complete.  The deck reinforcing was one such item.  It seemed right but definitely wasn't planned for originally.  The result surpassed my expectation.
 
The warning is, once you start bashing you want to bash more and more!
 
Cheers,
Mark

Since this was a working boat it spent a good chunk of time moored to a dock while it loaded or unloaded, so……it needed a robust way to tie up, usually to docks below the height of its bulwarks.  I had noticed the use of cavels on some wooden period ships I have visited and thought this the perfect solution.  A quick check of the Pride of Baltimore II reinforced this by seeing she had them.
 
These were pretty straight forward but I believe really added some pop to the hull.  I decided to use a block of walnut for the hull pass through and basswood (my go to wood) for the interior tie up post.  Since the bulwark was veneer overlaid on the inner sub-layer the walnut really provided a consistent clean look that I liked.  For location, I drilled through the inner bulwark at the center point between frames for accuracy.  A little wood removal with a sharp knife / files and lots of test fittings and this part was good to go.  The inner cavel post was pretty straight forward (don’t forget the matching center hole to the hull) and glued on.  All in all, this was less than an hour of work.  A total of four were put on the Lady Anne (two each side).

Big day today. The hull is complete. Only rigging and sails left. A lot of learning and techniques to master. 

Big day today. The hull is complete. Only rigging and sails left. A lot of learning and techniques to master.