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glbarlow

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Everything posted by glbarlow

  1. You will love the saw - the sliding table is new, but I've had the Byrnes saw for a number of years. It and the Byrnes sander are great tools
  2. I think this thread has lost the plot. I now have the sliding table and was successful cutting lap joints for my hatches. I also used it it to scratch build a companion way. Now that I’ve used it, not sure how I ever did without it. Have fun with cutting stories, I’ll try not to cut anything other than wood 🙂
  3. The masking tape is a good idea, I use black card stock, but that has to be glued on with CA, the tape saves a step once painted. Thanks for sharing that.
  4. Thanks for the inspiration. I bought a set of 6 Vallorbe files, then also bought two of the barrette files (#1 & #2), so much better than the files I’ve had for years. I used them in making my hatch lap joints for my in-progress cutter. Their precision cutting really helped. Admiral Cochrane approves.
  5. I’m envious of the boxwood planking. Your work and the boxwood make for a very good looking result. Yes Texas Glenn is all about the CA, it goes well with my general lack of patience. I do use PVA on a lot of the model for parts that I need to align, so I’m not a total fanatic. You're doing great!
  6. In my opinion they would greatly distract and hide from all the work that went into the model. I did the research on Pegasus, it has every running rigging rope as the real ship according to my research, but no sails. The ropes and detail work would be hidden.
  7. I’m no professional model painter but decided I was tired of Cochrane being gray. So here he is on the deck of my current project, a Chris design from long ago.
  8. I think that's great, not sure the perfectionist in me would let me. I appreciate the thought, but the goal is for her to have something to take home once it's done. I also bid and won another Midwest model on eBay, the Sakonnet Day Sailer - because it has sails. These two should give us a good start. They look like good kits and were the most recommended in this thread. Again my thanks the forum. I'd never known or found Midwest Models without your collective input. Still keeping the other suggestions provided handy - if the first one is a big hit who knows, maybe my 3 year old grandson is next.
  9. I found the Midwest Dingy on eBay for $24. It says it’s brand new. I like the size and all wood parts. For that price why not give it a try. I’ll let you all know. Thanks again for the great recommendations.
  10. Thanks for the recommendations. I’ll look through these and any others that reply. id love to do the Vanguard model, but at 6 I’d end up doing most of the work. If it’s too simple, or to small it will be forgotten. The challenge is the balance. I appreciate all the specific model links. I’ll find something with all your help. I’ll also let you know what worked.
  11. My 6 year old granddaughter wants to build a ship with me. I’m trying to find a very basic ship we can do, but she does most the work. And that we can start and finish over the summer. Problem kits that basic seem mostly like junk. I’d like it to be something she’ll be proud of years from now and a fond memory of time with us together. It won’t be that if it’s junk or I have to do the work. Any recommendations appreciated...
  12. Agree with Vane. Please create a new thread and move your discussion elsewhere. This is HIS build log.
  13. I believe Speedy is a brig, Alert is the Vanguard model based on a cutter as is Cheerful. At any rate As did Vane I’ll go with @Chris design when I build mine.
  14. I think sometimes “because it looks good” is enough of an answer. If we’re not under contract to a museum we’re ok making a few aesthetic decisions on our own.
  15. Great job on planking. The pear wood is nice, I wish I’d had the chance for the boxwood option. I can’t even find it to buy. Yours looks great.
  16. As another option: After establishing the waterline on my Vanguard I ran a row of full plates on top of and even with the top of those. It neated up the look quite a bit. Every time I look at it...so many plates...Speedy is much more manageable. I still won’t do it but glad you guys are enjoying it.
  17. One possible problem to check is that extra height doesn't prohibit the cannons from going through the port, I'd rig one up and poke it through one with a dry-fitted piece on the sill. I know I started to do that on my little Nelson project and determined the cannons weren't high enough to allow it. Painting them red (or whatever color) helps conceal the different layers of wood.
  18. This is a fantastic approach...use pencil to draw the planks then you can redesign it every year🤣😂
  19. I’m a bit concerned about several builders near running out of strips both first and second planking... we all have our methods around gun ports, thanks for sharing yours. I like the idea of a file with a single face, I need to find one of those. I sometimes cut a jig from scrap about 3-4mm height, long enough to hold on to, and the exact width of the gun port. Then attach 220 to one width side and 320 to the other with double sided tape and use it for a “file.” Being the exact width of the gun port and smooth wood on the sides gives me consistency. Looking good!
  20. I’ve found it easier to open up the gun ports, hatches, and rowing ports after each plank, never letting it get completely closed. I like the look of the lasered deck. I’m trying out your phatic blue for some parts, thanks for the lead. Good job on the bulwarks.
  21. I am quite the opposite, I’m excited about it. Great materials, good instruction, plenty of support. Sorry you got the wrong message from my posts.
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