glbarlow

I hope you do start. It may seem a lot, Cheerful sure did for me, we just take it step by step one page at a time. Ratlines are tedious, but easy once you get going. Guns are a jig and a process. You only have to start, there’s plenty of help available.

This was a great log. Are you still working on Flirt?

Welcome to my HM Flirt build log. This sister ship of the more famous Speedy is a Vanguard Models product and Chris Watton design. For those of you who joined me on my build of Chuck Passaro’s HM Cheerful I'm letting you know up front I’m taking a more casual approach to this log. One reason is while I enjoyed doing it, my Cheerful log took almost as much time to prepare as it did to build the model. There I felt like so much of it was a new discovery for me or a skill I didn’t have when I started, I wanted to share it all, and as I noted in that log, to motivate others to embark on their own Cheerful build. As for HM Flirt @James H has already posted an outstanding build of this vessel, his log and photos are amazing. In addition @DelF has a terrific log for his build of HM Speedy. While the models represent two different actual ships, they are similar for model construction. I highly recommend Derek for his clever techniques and build quality. So if you didn’t stop reading or already deleted your checkmark in the ‘follow’ column I hope I can entertain you a bit as I move through the build. I feel a little bad, Chris was kind enough to ship me the first Flirt, Master Shipwright Edition kit sold. He marked that occasion by sending this laser engraved board with the kit. I had elected to start Cheerful first so I’m not the first kit started, or even close to it. James’ log provides a detailed layout of the box contents, I won’t repeat that here, but I do want to highlight a few things. Any builder starting their first model or enjoying their tenth should buy from Vanguard Models. From basic to advanced (I’ve already ordered HMS Sphinx) Chris provides the best pure boxed kit available. His designs are innovative, the accompanying instruction manual is thorough and detailed with both text and photo descriptions of every step, the many plan sheets are precise and comprehensive, the PE is plentiful and equally innovative, he includes accurate resin cannons, and as an option a beautiful pear block set. On top of all that the wood, both laser cut sheets (he does it himself) and strip wood are of the best quality. No brittle, discolored walnut breaking apart before you can use it. While the regular version is pear (a beautiful wood for modeling), the Master Shipwright edition is all boxwood. There is nothing like opening up the package and seeing all that gorgeous boxwood. (On a side note, I’m not sure if he’s producing any more Master Shipwright Editions, you’ll have to check with @chris watton, he’s here on MSW Forums). Just a small diversion before moving on with the build. This is the just completed model my 8 year old granddaughter and I built over the summer. Her choice of colors and painting. She and my wife made the sails, I helped guide the build but the majority of the work is hers. I made the stand from left over Alaskan Yellow Cedar and added the brass plate to commemorate the finish. Anyway…proud Papa. Back to the build. I started as we all do by fitting the bulkheads to the former. The Master Shipwright version provides these in birch ply, as I shared with Chris I think prefer MDF at this scale, at least the quality of MDF in Vanguard kits. The ply isn’t the easiest to fit together and sanding takes a lot more work to get the same result on MDF. This is high grade ply made to be just as it is, quite firm and durable. I double down on gluing, first in the slots and then along the slot seams using a brush. The wood will break before these joints do. -4866T Though I didn't take a photo beforehand I thinned the deadwood and along the sternpost before adding any of the bulkheads using my finger plane and chisels (easier to do with the former laying flat). I elected to thin the area to 2mm, I still want enough for the sternpost to attach to the former. There is plenty of meat in the first planking, I can thin as needed to eventually match the sternpost to the thickness of second planing. I added filler parts 19 and 20 to the bow area, and thinking I knew what I was doing without consulting the instructions I added part 21 next to those. However part 21 is for the stern area, not the bow. It won’t hurt anything to be there and in fact probably helps, so I just fabricated part “21b” from the bulkhead sheet scrap and added it to the stern, problem solved. The instructions call for fairing these filler parts and the first and last couple of bulkheads before installing to the former. I was a bit reluctant to do this but was glad I did, especially with the unyielding ply. I used my Dremel with a sanding drum and was careful not to overdo it. This just in, wood doesn’t go back on once converted to sawdust. I’m going to use the maple engraved deck that comes with the Master Shipwright Edition. I lightly sanded it with 320 grit, added a coat of WOP, and repeated those steps twice more. I think it looks great and for this model it will be the deck. I’ve planked plenty of decks, I’m looking forward to this simple approach this time around. The lower deck is also engraved ply, in addition to supporting the frame it adds a nice touch to what little can be seen through hatches and deck ladders. Just for fun I added red paint to this area and later to other pillars and beams partially visible on the lower deck. There’s also a door, I’m not sure if it will be seen but it’s cool knowing its there. After first installing the four stern frame parts I added the counter. I soaked it in water, rubber banded it to a piece of PVC pipe I keep for the occasion and let it dry. I soaked it again then glued and clamped it using a round dowel, and idea borrowed from Derek, to get and keep it the designed curve. Next up was the transom, I had to maneuver the stern frames a little to get them in the right positions, hence the extra clamps. And really why use one or two clamps when eight are so much more fun, and no the ship didn’t tilt backwards…much. I used Titebond wood glue for everything described so far. I gave it a day to dry before moving to everyone’s favorite part of a build, Fairing The Hull. There is no overstating how important it is to take my time and do this right. It took me two days, with breaks in between, to get it done (I’ll have to note the high quality birch ply made it more fun, adding to the time). The instructions recommend using one of the lime strips as a batten, I prefer a much thinner more flexible wood strip to run along all the bulkheads (the blue tape is just for the photo), using it to identify and remove imperfections to get a smooth run. Up, down, in the middle, at the ends, 3-5 bulkheads at a time. When it contacts everything it spans without gaps I’m almost there, I do it all again because I know I missed something, then one more time after I’m sure I’m right, cause I’m not. This is more obvious at the bow, very often I find the overlooked part of fairing is not stem to bulkhead 2 to 3, it’s the turn from 3 to 4/5, when the sharp bow starts to become the wider beam. Also always a challenge and a later regret if not done right is the steep slope required from the counter to about three bulkheads forward. I got the starboard right but had to fight to get the port side to comply and stay equal to the port. With my dusk mask set aside and my room dust filter turned back to normal from its highest setting the frame is faired and ready for gunport patterns and the first planking. I didn’t mention it, but notice other design features Chris has added. Both the lower and upper deck are also frame support, two lengths of beam are installed running fore and aft for both deck support and squaring up the bulkheads. An innovation I’ve never seen is the boxwood stem piece with slots that serve as the rabit for the planking. This part is notched and slotted between the fillers, it the last thing added to the frame. It wasn’t there to be scarred by the fairing process. It is also the base for the interlocking stem that won’t be added until later, thus saving it from a beating. How many of us have scratched and damaged the stem, normally a part of the frame from the beginning. Cool stuff this Vanguard Model. A few further thoughts on fairing: I leave the back edge of the char on the forward bulkheads and the front edge on the aft bulkheads as a guide when fairing to make sure I keep the hull’s proper shape. I also start taking micro-measurements of the width and height of bulkheads at the bow and stern at multiple spots to match port and starboard. It’s pretty easy to get carried away and get it all lopsided. It’s also important to not say good enough. Most if not all the char other than the edges I mentioned should be gone when you’re done. Oh, and I think parts 21 and 21b worked out just fine once faired. Gunport patterns and first planking are next. Time to get out the plank bending station. I guess I wasn't very brief after all.

I'm thinking Chris has the laser thing worked out, my skill set in offering unsolicited advice in case you werer't already aware is to plug it in before turning it on - that's about all I have to offer.🤣

I’ve started. If I do a log it will be a little lighter weight than my Cheerful log. It took almost as much time as the building did.

Me too

I’m working on Flirt now after finishing Cheerful, so it will be a while.

Mine is ordered, just yesterday…. It will be a fun build.

That’s a nice looking box Well done!

I’m not a fan of tree nailing, in fact it was Chuck that convinced me not to. He doesn’t do it on Winnie. However it’s the modelers choice, whatever you like.

I will enjoy watching your build. Like you I just had to press the button. I may go also go without masts and rigging, I’ll wait till i get to that point and then decide. Either way, darn that Chris with his innovative design and that James with his photography. I’m thrilled Chris has sold 50 through pre-sales alone.

Not sure where you heard that, Pear is excellent for planking, I’ve not heard of using beach wood. You can see pear used on any Vanguard build log as that’s what Chris supplies with his kits.

I use both Morton Swan scalpel and Excel #11 blades depending on what I’m doing. I buy both blades in bulk and change as often as I need to. That and a set of sharp Veritas mini chisels are All I need.

Which one is which🤣

A good guide to keep from sanding too much is to leave a light strip of char on the back of the bow bulkheads and front of the stern bulkheads. You’re sure to keep the designed shape that way. Of course running a batten to check your work is the best bet.

This is such a great idea. Well done!

Nikon all the time all day every day 😁🧐😀😎😂🤣 There are as many opinions on which is best as there are camera owners, really at this point of the digital age there isn’t much difference between one or the other among the top 3: Nikon, Canon, and Sony (other than structure and layout of the menus).

Have you looked at the other Lady Nelson build logs? They are a great source to see what others have done and benefit from what they learned. Are you tapering your planks? No more than the first two van be full width. May I suggest your fairing needs work. You should be able to smoothly lay a batten (a very thin strip of wood or even paper card) from front to back and make smooth contact with every bulkhead. The front bulkheads seem to have an angle to them verse a curve. Those gun ports often buckle a bit at that spot, you’ll be able to sand it down quite a bit after the first planking. LN is a good model to learn with, I hope you have fun building it and supporting your son’s hobby store trips.

I know a ship has a bow and a stern, it gets dicey after that 🤣😂 I love working with the wood and the lines and grace of a sailing ship. Build what seems interesting, the rest will come

You want to light two things separately. The brighter light is pointed at the background (behind the ship) to make it white, even or less light results In gray. This also eliminates shadows. The second light is pointed at the ship, adjust the brightness here until you get the right balance, orient it based on what your shooting. Go with as high as an f/stop (larger number) as you can for depth of field, but at some point that’s more than the lights can manage (every step up takes a step up in light brightness). It takes some experimenting especially when your new at it. Highlight aspects of the ship by going close in, whole ship photos aren’t interesting other than establishing a baseline for the closer shots. Hope that helps

Really beautiful work, just amazing. You’ll be the hit of the show! I see mini-you is taking a nap there on the base, fitting I’m sure. 🤣

I'd have to agree - the best first model is one from Vanguard Models. You may find cheaper ones with the result you become discouraged with models and simply never finish it. I have to disagree about Midwest Models, I found two on eBay to build with my grandkids and found them much more frustrating and irritating than any other model I've built - cheap is what they are in both prices and build-ability. You truly get what you pay for and a cheap model is not the place to start. Chris provides detailed and expert instructions with well thought out plans to go with a model that is designed with modern concepts and supplied with high quality material - all pear wood verses brittle walnut as example. You will make mistakes, we all do, your chances of recovering from those and still being inspired to finish with one of the Zulu models than any other kit out there for a first timer. A beginner, or even advanced, builder just can't go wrong with a Vanguard model.

I don’t have those lines on my masters Shipwright version, nor does bulkhead 10 have front engraved on it (though obviously that’s easy to figure out). Sorting out the beveling is no big deal either, just as FYI to Chris. I i do have the first kit out the door though. Just now starting it.

I've always mounted my models with brass pedestals on a walnut base. I'll give the acetate a try for Flirt, it is nice looking. However I'll have to glue it in so my grandson doesn't think this is the model, "when can I play with one that has guns?" he gets to play with. 😄 Good to know about the waterline, I hadn't thought about that.

Not many, if any kit providers include one stand let alone two. Thanks Chris!