glbarlow

Thank you...oh, you mean the UK Glenn😂🤣

Not sure I buy that comment. The boxes on the shelves are all labeled. I don’t even have any sanding stick sponges🤣😂

Nice work. Brings back memories.

Thank you for saying so, but the collection will only be mine I’m sure. I doubt I could part with it after being so long together with her.

Thanks Garthog! There’s still more fun to be had and more things to do for the first time, I can’t stop now😁

Thank you! Me too 🙂

Thank you Chuck. I also love the color and tone of the yellow cedar. My focus on detail and willingness to do it over until I get it right is a tribute to your elegant design, instructions, and guidance.

I appreciate your saying so.

Thank you!

Thanks Derek. I’ve tossed and replaced so many things all the way back to planking I feel like I’ve built it twice.

I thought about it and replaced the ones seen in the photo with 24 guage wire versions but from clean deck it would go to cluttered deck in my opinion, especially with the rigging to come.

You can do this one for sure, but hilarious comment🤣

Two posts back to back. Thank you for the comments, hope you also enjoy the completed hull photos.

The Completed Hull It’s been a year almost to the day since I pulled out the starter kit, plans, mini-kits, and unmilled lumber to begin my build of HM Cheerful. At that point, as I read through the well written and photo supported monograph, there were so many things that I had absolutely no clue how I was going to do. It has been an adventure, I learned how to do all those things. I thought it worth a moment to pause and share a few photos of my build of Cheerful. I pulled out my camera gear to try and do her a bit of justice. The bowsprit was still installed in temporary mode and the mast is far from finished but there for contrast in one photo. So without further comment, here she is. Thanks for stopping by. I always appreciate your comments and likes.

Completing the Deck I built all the remaining deck furniture some time ago, now the time has come to mount it on the deck. The first step is the tricky one of aligning the bowsprit bits, bowsprit, and windlass so they all connect in the right spots with the bowsprit in a straight-line with the hull. This is compounded by ensuring the right distance from the forward hatch and that there is room in the crowded port bow for the long gun. The placement of the bits drives everything else. Once carefully marked and checked about ten times, I glued them to the deck with the bits having a brass rod inserted in the bottom of each post and drilled through the deck. I have a spacer held by the clothes pin on the stem, the weight to press the bits tightly to the deck, and tape to keep the bits lined up tight to the bow sprit. This is another of those take a deep breath moments, it’s get it right or start a new model time. Good news, nothing fell. As I’m coming to the close of the majority of the building it dawned on me how many different glues I’ve used on this model. Each of these has served some specific purpose and have been the glue that holds the project together …see what I did there. I use Smith Industries CA glues exclusively and have for years, you can find it on Amazon if you’re interested. My bottle of Admiralty Paints White glue has served me equally well over a number of models. Of course most know Tite-Bond, I like this version because it dries clear and sets up at about the right speed for me to be able to position things properly. The small bottle is my ready supply of watered down white glue. With the bits set next up is the windlass (not really sequential, as noted all have to be lined up together). I have fake bolts on the deck furniture, this was the opportunity to actually have bolts serving a purpose. So after careful positioning the windlass I drilled thru it and the deck and locked it in temporarily with 24 gauge wire. I then removed it to give me room to mount the two chase guns in the bow. As many have noted, the location of the port gun doesn’t make a lot of sense since there is no room to work it, but it looks right sitting there from an overall cosmetic perspective, so there it sits. Once the guns were mounted I replaced the windlass, glued it down, and snipped the wire, creating two new “bolts.” I’m quite fond of Wipe On Poly, my deck has multiple coats, I’ve learned however it doesn’t bond well with other parts. Under the bits and all the deck furniture I first used my chisel and #11 blade to scratch and rough up the service of both the item I was gluing and the deck where it was going. The challenge being to not mar any visible areas. The galley chimney serves as an example but I did the same thing on all the deck furniture. Once again I used weathering powder on the chimney, though this time I used Soot instead of Rust brown. It gave the wood much more of a metal look. As I’ve said before I’ve become a big fan of O’Brien’s Weathering Powders and my pack of specialty soft brushes. Next up was the winch, again careful alignment for distance from the mast, but easier to manage than up at the bow. Brass pins beneath the posts drilled into the deck. I want to make sure anything that will have rigging is firmly fixed. Tight Bond was used for all the deck furniture along with the pins. With that the bow and midships area is complete. I also added the elm tree pumps in front of the companionway but forgot to take photos. After I took the photos I decided to replace all the line of commercial eyelets and ring bolts along the length of the deck with my own using 24 gauge wire giving a beefier look. Time to do some rigging. Thanks for stopping by.

servo-Derek... Your maritime knowledge is always impressive as is your attention to the smallest detail.

It's easier starting with square stock and rounding the round parts with the lathe following the 7-10-7 rule - lots of examples of how to go about that in various build logs. Harder to make a round dowel squared and tapered. Just a thought...

Great work and creative solutions, I always learn something new from your posts. I found this simple tool for cutting brass tube using a jewelers saw. I took the handle off and clamped it with a vise. It works great. https://www.riogrande.com/product/tubing-cutter-jig-with-sliding-gauge/113841

I thin I described how I determine the taper in my LN log. You want to have all the planks terminating at the bow near the same width. Learning to do this comes only with practice, you’re doing great for a first model. The first step is caring about doing it right, your posts demonstrate that you do. It’s surprising to me how many don’t thinking painting solves everything.

This is better than wood filler on the second planking. Put the minimum amount of white glue in the gap, doesn’t have to be diluted very much if at all (experiment off the ship), avoid the area surrounding the gap, wipe off any glue not in the gap. hen trowel the sawdust on top of the glue in the gap in abundance. Flatten it as much as you can with a flat tool, pressing it into the gap and again avoiding the surrounding area. (Of course the dry dust will just blow off). Then don’t touch it too soon, once it’s dry lightly sand it with 320 and 400 grit. With a little practice, and it does take some practice, you almost can’t tell where it was - and not at all from a normal viewing distance. Wood filler works great on areas you’ll paint, the texture and color don’t work that well for natural areas. Have fun, glad Chuck’s plan bending technique is working for you, it was a game changer for me.

Thank you for saying so! Thanks for the comment Derek! As to the rope rocket, I’m sure one is in my future. However I’m glad I have the original stuff for Cheerful. Next on my list is learning how to use the Service-O-Magic...after I put it together.

Thank you both for the kind words. I’m glad the results show well and my posts are of some help. Also thanks for all the likes!

Thanks BE. Good catch and one I figured out after I did it. I appreciate your mentioning it. It was my error. I’ve since performed surgery, removing and replacing the forward hatch. That was fun. I then decided, following Chuck’s approach, not to include Hawsers at all and will instead tie off the anchors. I couldn’t bring myself to notch the main hatch. This wilI be my first model without anchor cables, so a change of pace I guess.

Thank you for saying so!

Thanks John. Must be some expensive wood in that clarinet. Good for you, I can’t play anything musical despite the required attempts of my elementary school band teacher long ago.