glbarlow
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Everything posted by glbarlow
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I put some planking below the skylight which I can barely see. It will be interesting to see how you expand the view. Opening the companion way door was something I considered but passed on. Should be fun. -
Bulging 2nd Planks
glbarlow replied to drjeckl's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Hard to say, haven’t encountered that. I put little dabs of CA, don’t need much, along the whole plank. I leave only a small space between each dab, no big gaps along the way. It’s also important to have the right bends in the plank both in and down using Chuck’s method. You’re right, no edge gluing is needed. So the only thing I can guess is your gaps between CA are too large or the bend isn’t right or a combination of both. Your first planking needs to be very smooth and faired. You can’t get a different hull with the second planking, it conforms to the first. -
First, sorry for the typos, me and my iPad are not friends when it comes to typing.... That is your best advice. It’s understandable to want to get to a result, but harder to remember your not on a schedule. If I had remembered that Cheerful would have both sides planked once instead of 2-3 times, my having ripped off work I wasn’t happy with. Which bring me to my other advice - don’t settle. If it’s just “ok for me” then rip it off and do it again. That’s the nice thing about wood, there is almost nothing you can’t fix. I often say if things had three sides my third side would look great because if the practice from the first two. And of course enjoy it, it’s a hobby not a chore.
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Yep, that’s why I described using the lans to cut the hull shape out of a board for bending the pattern, not to pile n...
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He’s answered this before. His focus is 1:64
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Sorry about your furlough, but I guess that's good for us since there is more time for Sphinx. If they can just get the vaccine rolled out faster than they have so far....
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So many nautical terms, I don’t know what you’re saying in most of this post 🤣😂 Nonetheless very expert and detailed on the rigging work, things I’d never think of doing.
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- vanguard models
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After Vanguard I really learned to hate coppering and vowed never to do it again. However you’ve done a really nice job of it. I’m very impressed with your painting, it’s something I pride myself on doing. Sadly I don’t have your patience to paint so many coats though I do thin mine a lot. The sanding sealer, or I should say your use of it, really turned out a great result.
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Expert work all around, and using all that cool nautical terminology. I had to buy a nautical dictionary to follow Derek’s build. I’ll have to pull it out to follow yours now too😂🤣 You should build Cheerful for your next cutter.
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You are welcome to them, and a very nice job at that😁 I envy some of those lasered fittings on Winnie, like the ladders. Some things are fun to make, some are just a chore...like ladders. I agree the new ladder was worth the re-work, a nicer look.
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I admire the expert painting, the gold really pops! It is so weird that the Revive It works, but clearly it does.
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- Duchess of Kingston
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Why do some manufacturers make single plank kits?
glbarlow replied to Meriadoc Brandybuck's topic in Wood ship model kits
Depends on perspective. I know in my opinion it’s not one of expense. Cheerful, a quality single planked model, is no less expensive than Flirt, a double planked one. A single planked hull is more of a challenge than a double planked one, no room to recover if you do it wrong. I don’t think in general you can single plank a POB kit designed to be double planked because of the lessor number of bulkheads, essential to shaping the hull. For that reason it’s not comparable to a real ship which had many more frames than a kit, even a single planked one. My Fair American, a 1:48 POF, has only about 1/4-½ inch between frames, Cheerful, a single planked semi-scratch build has a third more bulkheads than a typical double planked kit. Bottom line, just different things. I know Fair American and Cheerful are much more complex challenges and benefit a more experience modeler than regular double planked models. -
Sand & Sealer
glbarlow replied to DaveBaxt's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Most kits just use another layer of planking to simulate the wale, applied on top of the second planking. -
I use CA for planking and have for 20 years and 10 models. There are grades of CA, I use Smith Industries. I also use White PVA and Titebond wood glue depending on the task. You should use what works for you and not what others insist is best. Plenty of the best builders use CA for planking. BTW CA is an abbreviation for Cyanoacrylate not contact adhesive.
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As I recall the plans I clued a belaying diagram by using letters/numbers on a line matched to the same letter number on the deck. I added a number of lines mostly because I thought the plans were skimpy. I used prior knowledge from other models to belay those.
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If it’s boxwood there’s a market for it, but if common hardwood probably not. Even if boxwood likely a pretty long ROI for the required tools Chuck lists.
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Basswood and walnut are the usual.
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Thank you, I try to make it useful to others.
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- cheerful
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No problem with the question. I didn’t go back no read it all, I thought I had explained it, but you kind of answered your question anyway. It’s a result of very careful fairing of the hull to have a smooth run of planking, as judged by the test battens, flowing and correctly contacting each frame bow to stern. It’s critical to spend the time getting the fairing right given Cheerful is single planked. Getting that smooth run resulted in the brown being removed, a result, not an objective. In fact I kept the trailing lasered edge right up to the last to make sure I didn’t overdo it an alter the shape of the hull. Hope that helps.
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Is replace that. Balsa won’t hold up very well
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There are more photos of my finished model in the gallery here. HM Nelson. Not sure what you’re looking for exactly, hopefully it’s there.
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- lady nelson
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Assuming it’s basswood it’s no problem. Even if you scorch it a bit it’s easily to lightly sand off.
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Painted they look ok, I considered that at the time as well but thought, my limited skills aside, that it might end up clunky so I moved on. I wish my log still existed, lost in the 2013 crash... I hope you get back to it, it’s a great kit. At least until I finish Cheerful, still my favorite model.
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- fly
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Fairing this ship is important, especially at the bow, run lots of battens to ensure it’s a smooth flow. Be super careful measuring and placing the ports on the frame. Eventually there will be a only a 1/64th rabit around them, this seemingly harmless step carries forward what happens on the rest of the model. The thick wood used gives you the opportunity to get them lined up. I’m happy to see you’ve got the start and I wish Project Wood Source, and seemingly every other similar business hadn’t closed its doors...
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