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glbarlow

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Everything posted by glbarlow

  1. glbarlow
    After Vanguard I really learned to hate coppering and vowed never to do it again. However you’ve done a really nice job of it. I’m very impressed with your painting, it’s something I pride myself on doing. Sadly I don’t have your patience to paint so many coats though I do thin mine a lot. The sanding sealer, or I should say your use of it, really turned out a great result.
  2. glbarlow
    Expert work all around, and using all that cool nautical terminology. I had to buy a nautical dictionary to follow Derek’s build. I’ll have to pull it out to follow yours now too😂🤣 You should build Cheerful for your next cutter.
  3. glbarlow
    You are welcome to them, and a very nice job at that😁 I envy some of those lasered fittings on Winnie, like the ladders. Some things are fun to make, some are just a chore...like ladders. I agree the new ladder was worth the re-work, a nicer look.
  4. glbarlow
    I admire the expert painting, the gold really pops! It is so weird that the Revive It works, but clearly it does.
  5. glbarlow
    Depends on perspective. I know in my opinion it’s not one of expense. Cheerful, a quality single planked model, is no less expensive than Flirt, a double planked one. A single planked hull is more of a challenge than a double planked one, no room to recover if you do it wrong. I don’t think in general you can single plank a POB kit designed to be double planked because of the lessor number of bulkheads, essential to shaping the hull. For that reason it’s not comparable to a real ship which had many more frames than a kit, even a single planked one. My Fair American, a 1:48 POF, has only about 1/4-½ inch between frames, Cheerful, a single planked semi-scratch build has a third more bulkheads than a typical double planked kit. Bottom line, just different things. I know Fair American and Cheerful are much more complex challenges and benefit a more experience modeler than regular double planked models.
  6. glbarlow
    Most kits just use another layer of planking to simulate the wale, applied on top of the second planking.
  7. glbarlow
    I use CA for planking and have for 20 years and 10 models. There are grades of CA, I use Smith Industries. I also use White PVA and Titebond wood glue depending on the task. You should use what works for you and not what others insist is best. Plenty of the best builders use CA for planking. BTW CA is an abbreviation for Cyanoacrylate not contact adhesive.
  8. glbarlow
    As I recall the plans I clued a belaying diagram by using letters/numbers on a line matched to the same letter number on the deck. I added a number of lines mostly because I thought the plans were skimpy. I used prior knowledge from other models to belay those.
  9. glbarlow
    If it’s boxwood there’s a market for it, but if common hardwood probably not. Even if boxwood likely a pretty long ROI for the required tools Chuck lists.
  10. glbarlow
    Thank you Dana, that’s my goal😁!
  11. glbarlow
    Basswood and walnut are the usual.
  12. glbarlow
    Thank you, I try to make it useful to others.
  13. glbarlow
    No problem with the question. I didn’t go back no read it all, I thought I had explained it, but you kind of answered your question anyway. It’s a result of very careful fairing of the hull to have a smooth run of planking, as judged by the test battens, flowing and correctly contacting each frame bow to stern. It’s critical to spend the time getting the fairing right given Cheerful is single planked. Getting that smooth run resulted in the brown being removed, a result, not an objective. In fact I kept the trailing lasered edge right up to the last to make sure I didn’t overdo it an alter the shape of the hull. Hope that helps.
  14. glbarlow
    Is replace that. Balsa won’t hold up very well
  15. glbarlow
    There are more photos of my finished model in the gallery here. HM Nelson. Not sure what you’re looking for exactly, hopefully it’s there.
  16. glbarlow
    Assuming it’s basswood it’s no problem. Even if you scorch it a bit it’s easily to lightly sand off.
  17. glbarlow
    Painted they look ok, I considered that at the time as well but thought, my limited skills aside, that it might end up clunky so I moved on. I wish my log still existed, lost in the 2013 crash... I hope you get back to it, it’s a great kit. At least until I finish Cheerful, still my favorite model.
  18. glbarlow
    Fairing this ship is important, especially at the bow, run lots of battens to ensure it’s a smooth flow. Be super careful measuring and placing the ports on the frame. Eventually there will be a only a 1/64th rabit around them, this seemingly harmless step carries forward what happens on the rest of the model. The thick wood used gives you the opportunity to get them lined up. I’m happy to see you’ve got the start and I wish Project Wood Source, and seemingly every other similar business hadn’t closed its doors...
  19. glbarlow
    You can carefully drill holes in the grate, better than drilling the deck.
  20. glbarlow
    Great detail and tutorials as always, once again posts for the reference file. Those are the nicest seizing I’ve ever seen. I always rig everything I can to the masts before stepping them, so much easier than later.i use a paper grid behind the shrouds with both properly spaced horizontal lines and vertical ones to stay on track with rat lines. The paper background has the advantage of my not going cross eyed by removing everything behind the shrouds.
  21. glbarlow
    That’s a creative and great presentation, very clever. I might build this boat just to copy your stand...
  22. glbarlow
    Are you beveling the bottom inside edge of the plank?
  23. glbarlow
    I’ll join the others in highly recommending Vanguard Models. https://vanguardmodels.co.uk/ I’ve built a number of models designed by Chris Watten when he worked for other companies, he now has his own company freed from restrains of commercial manufactures that economize with mass produced fittings. Chris’ designs are the very latest in creative modeling, his materials outclass all the others, and most importantly his detailed instructions and plans have no peer in the world of kits. Check the website to see, you can download instructions to get a better feel. I’d recommend HM Flirt given your description. Chris is also an active ontributor on this site and their are multiple build logs (Flirt and Speedy are similar enough) to follow for additional help You really need look no further than @chris watton
  24. glbarlow
    You only nee 3 on the wins to bend planks, but it’s all about learning by doing. No soaking needed I don’t prepare the next plank until the prior one is installed. Can’t get ahead of yourself.
  25. glbarlow
    Thanks Derek, your mill lessons were put to good use.

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