glbarlow

You can carefully drill holes in the grate, better than drilling the deck.

Great detail and tutorials as always, once again posts for the reference file. Those are the nicest seizing I’ve ever seen. I always rig everything I can to the masts before stepping them, so much easier than later.i use a paper grid behind the shrouds with both properly spaced horizontal lines and vertical ones to stay on track with rat lines. The paper background has the advantage of my not going cross eyed by removing everything behind the shrouds.

That’s a creative and great presentation, very clever. I might build this boat just to copy your stand...

Are you beveling the bottom inside edge of the plank?

I’ll join the others in highly recommending Vanguard Models. https://vanguardmodels.co.uk/ I’ve built a number of models designed by Chris Watten when he worked for other companies, he now has his own company freed from restrains of commercial manufactures that economize with mass produced fittings. Chris’ designs are the very latest in creative modeling, his materials outclass all the others, and most importantly his detailed instructions and plans have no peer in the world of kits. Check the website to see, you can download instructions to get a better feel. I’d recommend HM Flirt given your description. Chris is also an active ontributor on this site and their are multiple build logs (Flirt and Speedy are similar enough) to follow for additional help You really need look no further than @chris watton

You only nee 3 on the wins to bend planks, but it’s all about learning by doing. No soaking needed I don’t prepare the next plank until the prior one is installed. Can’t get ahead of yourself.

Thanks Derek, your mill lessons were put to good use.

Thank you, I’m sure your new log will be as well.

It is both good practice and good form - Whatever the first planking is what the second planking will be at least in terms of shape.

Your paint work really stands out and the pieces are fit together so precisely - nice work as always!

Thanks, yes it is. Well worth it, more so when I learn more ways to use it.

Thanks! I decided at the beginning I was going RED with my choice of red 😉

It’s a good message and accomplished exactly that.

This was fun. I’ve scratch built a few things here and there in my modeling but Cheerful’s winch is the first ‘complex’ thing I’ve made from nothing but some wood and a set of plans. As I’m prone to do I thought I’d share how I made it - once again acknowledging there are many ways to do things, this is just mine…and it was my first. The mini-kits available for Cheerful are great little projects in and of themselves, however in the case of the winch Chuck elected to leave us to fend for ourselves. So I gathered up the material I’d need, two thicknesses of wood strip, one of wood sheet and two basswood dowels I had in stock along with some brass rod and brass micro-tubing and off I went. First I cut square pillars from 7/32 stock and the crossbar from 3/16, thanks Byrnes saw. I cut out the pillar supports from a copy of the plans, rubber cemented them to 1/8 sheet wood, then cut them out using my scroll saw - cutting right along the line through the paper while keeping my fingers. Then it was to the mill. I learn a little more each day about how valuable and useful the Proxxon MF 70 can be. I’m still fumbling a bit maintaining consistency with the X,Y.Z axis control, while they can be very precise the knobs are be a bit tight. Stating the obvious, t’s important and a bit of a challenge to get zero set. I used a piece of paper between the bit and the wood. When I could barely pull the paper between them, literally scratching the paper and not the wood, I set the knob for that axis at zero. I used the mill to cut the notches in the cross bar and a more shallow notch in the two pillars, so that the cross bar sits out from the pillars when connected. I also used the mill as a drill press, drilling a hole through both pillars together for mounting the winch drum. Again the obvious, it’s critical for the milled parts to be level and square top and back. The Proxxon vice accessory makes this easier, I cut various spacers from scrap MDF to help with the alignment. I now had the easy part done. The winch drum, a small thing, was more problematic. It consists of the drum, raised spacers, and sprockets. I thought about using the lathe, I mean I have it and all, but the crown, the raised portion of the drum (like a spool of thread) had to be equal to the sprockets which I had no clue how to make. So I used a larger basswood dowel, sliced off two pieces, then used my chisel to cut notches around the dowel, painted that bit Ironwood Black, dusted it with Rusty Brown weathering powder, and sliced off two sprockets. I glued all 5 together for a completed drum. With this done I had all the major components. Time for a little dry-fit test. Following the plans proved important, as it always does, since the overall width of the winch supports have to fit between the deck ring bolts and stove pipe hatch. Then it’s back to the mill to shape the pillars. I went through a lot of practice attempts, and despite great advice from others I just wasn’t happy with my attempts to cut the angled top consistently on eight sides (two pillars). I know how now, I just need more practice - it’s a surprising small angle as it turns out. So I opted for an alternate approach, I cut in the top 1mm from the top and 1mm in with a 1 mm bit, yes you can be that precise, creating the cap. I moved in 5 mm and cut a .5mm slice to form the base of the cut in. That was it for the mill. I thought about going ‘fancy’ on the crossbar but it’s not shown that way on the plans so I just rounded off the edges by sanding. I used my freshly sharpened (I know how to do that now too) Veritas Chisel to slice in the angle using the .5mm cut as a stop and finished it up with needle files and sanding sticks. I was able to create the eight consistent sides this way, something a proper use of the mill could have done faster (well, maybe not by me), but I venture to say not better. After painting the assembly and adding in the drum using brass rod inserted into both sides the last step was the handles. There are of course numerous ways to go about this. I chose to create the handles using small boxwood strip shaped and sanded, drilled holes into both ends, make the handles from brass rod with small micro tubing glued over it, the other end added to the brass rod on the drum then the rods cut flush. Of course it being ‘metal’ I first painted them Ironwood Black and added the weathering powder, it makes a difference even on these small handles. And I now have a completely scratch made winch, it goes on the shelf with other deck items until later. I’m kinda proud of it, obviously since I devoted a post just to it. I offer this to those considering building Cheerful: It has presented me with the opportunity to try so many new things I’d not done before despite having built nine kits. I’m treading new ground with each step. At first I was kinda wishing for another mini-kit for the winch but now am quite happy with the opportunity to build it on by own. I also once again thank others for their help and inspiration and can only hope I can provide a little inspiration myself for others take on this great model.

Congratulations, welcome to the Cheerful club. Looking forward to following your progress. I wish we had a ‘Wood project source’ on this side of the Atlantic.

I think my Lady Nelson log and I know my Cheerful log explains Chuck’s method for lining the hull for planking and bending planks to fit. Getting the taper and curves right is important and whatever plan you have needs to be adjusted as you go. I don’t think I’ve seen the method you’re using, I hope it works out well

I never put them in glass cases, that would spoil the affect for me on the shelf ) too bulky in my humble opinion. I just turn them on the shelf every 6 months (like they do with the real Constitution :-D) so it fades evenly and (gently)use compressed air and a soft brush to (gently) dust them off. Some of them have been on the shelf over a decade and still look fine. You can always buy a bigger house 😄

Very nicely done, congratulations! The AVS is a great model, I learned a lot from building her, those skills will transfer nicely to your next model. I’m looking forward to following your Cheerful build. It’s a wonderful challenge and I’m sure you’ll enjoy building her.

Wow... I’d be so confused trying to keep track of what I was doing with that many active builds, I can barely keep track of one 🤣. They all look great though. Granado was one of my favorite builds and stands proudly on my shelf.

Looking great, more and more interesting as you go.

Thanks for the comment. Chuck states that’s the case in his monograph, and reminds us it’s a model. I’ll look forward to see how your approach comes out. The mast cap was fun to make, historically I bet they didn’t have a Proxxon mill to spin it on 😂

Great work on that detailed painting, that takes a really steady hand!

I appreciate the video but I barely know how to use it as it is and I don’t speak that language...😂🤣

Thanks for the comment. I actually have three prior logs here, Vanguard, Fair American, and Pegasus. Unfortunately Pegasus and Fair American were lost in the great 2013 systems crash and I wasn’t smart enough to keep a backup. Vanguard is still here though. The links in my signature line carry you to either gallery photos or those logs.

The low spot may be problematic as your gun ports will then out uneven, my suggested method might have helped. I recommend you remove itshape it, and do it again. You can bevel the garboard plank (one closest to the keel) to fit tight against the keel, You don’t need a rabit. Be sure to also taper, cut the right angle, and bevel the leading edge at the bow. Don’t put on the stern post until 2nd planking is son but sand and thin at the stern so both planking equal the width of the stern post. it doesn’t look you faired the hull before putting on the patterns, that will make fairing harder. I also broke that stem piece, more than once as I recall. You’re painting it black eventually just ensure you have it straight and it will be fine. Rigging lines go through those holes so it has to be strong enough to support that. All of this is described in other logs, I always read every thing I can find about the next step in whatever log I can find, beats reading the fact. The instructions in the model are thin, you need all the help you can get. That still applies to me and I’ve built 9 models.