glbarlow

Jim isn't a real person - he's an automated ship making machine 😄

Yes, I put decking below the skylight, which can barely be seen but a glimpse is better than just painted black.

Yes, the point is the lathe is shorter than most mast and spars so the tail stock can't be used - unless you run it through the chuck as Derek described.

Thanks, I wouldn’t have thought of that. I’d always used blue painters tape as the adhesive doesn’t leave any residue on the wood. I must say the lathe is absolutely the best dust generating tool I own 😊

It’s all just so neat and sharp. Chris should replace his box art with yours.

Steady work,nice! I’m looking forward to seeing Cheerful decked out in pear wood.

I have the 3 jaw Chuck, it works fine. I just made the fairly long bowsprit for Cheerful, really no different than had I used the drill I’ve always used before and it came out fine. It has an offset in the final 5mm which I cut ok but it was wobbly, a tail stock would come in handy. All sandpaper and files, no cutting tools. How do you handle long spars pushing through the chuck without marring them when the chuck is tightened, I guess the old tape wrap trick. I can work with it ok, just looking for a steadier hold. Doesn’t seem to matter, I can’t find the extension bed anyway

Anyone know where I can get an extension bed for my Proxxon DB250 lathe...besides Australia...?

A bit difficult to follow, I’m almost tempted to get mine out to see how it aligns, but Cheerful awaits.

The last two items for me to make in completing the hull are the elm tree pumps and the fixed block, the first from Chuck’s mini-kit the second a scratch build. Elm Tree Pumps The first step is applying the 7-10-7 rule to a square piece of boxwood then using that to create the octagon shape of the pumps. The jig I used won’t win any ‘pretty’ awards, I modified it to work from a different jig, but is was effective in holding the small wood piece steady while I shaped it using my favorite finger planer. Between the planer, a file, and a sanding block I was fairly quickly able to get both pumps converted to octagons. I painted the handle and bracket before removing these laser cut pieces from their frame knowing I’d have to paint them again, it made doing that easier. The bracket has to be slice cut at its top to accept the handle, so back to my favorite mill again. This could be done by hand with a file I’m sure, but again, there’s a mill just sitting there. Though a simple cut it is very delicate and requires careful measuring - as you can see there is not much room to be wrong. The resulting hinge opening is very delicate, I was fortunate not to break one but if I had Chuck does include 3 of both the handle and the bracket in the mini-kit. I drilled two holes at the proper deck location and inserted brass pins in the base of both pumps. It made it easier to add the spout and easier to paint holding them with my hemostats (more dental tools) as well as to install the metal (black paper) band around the top. Chuck provides enough strip if you want to add another band at the bottom. I like the way these look without that. Either way is historically accurate for those counting. I rounded and softened the edges of the handle for a used look. Lining up the wire pin through the bracket and handle was fun... A quick dry fit and then off they go to my construction shelf to be mounted later. The handles move so I can position them. I’ll have to watch closely to make sure they aren’t snagged during the rigging. Though they do move I did not test to see if they remove water from the bilge. Fixed Block Next up is the fixed block on the starboard side of the stem. For this I had only the plans to go by and consulting of other logs for ideas, once again the strength of MSW. This turned out to be a pleasant afternoon’s project start to finish. It was fun to figure out and make. I started with a piece of scrap boxwood - I just love boxwood, it’s so nice to work with, shape and polish into shape. I’m glad when I have a use for it not calling for paint, it is also very complimentary to the model’s yellow cedar. I cut a piece longer than I needed 6mm wide (per the plans) and 3mm thick (just looked right, no way to tell from the 2 dimensional plans). I suppose I could have made it from a piece 2mm thick but with its required U shape I was concerned it might break at the joints. Of course this is a task the mill is perfectly designed for, much crisper and faster than I could have done it by hand. Have I mentioned how much I enjoy having the mill… I failed to take a photo of the reverse side of the block - essentially it’s cut to a block form U (as can be seen in the previous photo). The plans call for the ‘indention’ to be 6mm long and deep enough to hold the sheave, and as it happens a perfect fit for a 5mm pear wood deadeye I took from my Speedy kit. I drilled a hole in the center of both the block and deadeye, I did have to sand the sides of the deadeye considerably for it to fit between the block and the stem, which is ok, it looks like a sheave now. I drilled a hole for a 22 gauge wire center for the sheave and four 24 gauge wire mounting holes. The extra length was handy for testing holes and for holding the piece both in the mill vise and on the work bench. Once everything was ready I carefully sliced it off with the cross cut sliding table on my Byrnes saw. You can also see the measurements (1mm turns of the axis wheels) and notations used for cutting it on the mill, I have to do this otherwise I lose track. I spent a considerable amount of time with fine and extra fine sanding sticks to round it off and shaping it to look a little worn and pounded by the waves, then attached it with CA and firmed it up with the wire mounts. I had mounted the center wire and deadeye first. The uncut center wire was handy in giving me something to hold on to while lining it up on the stem. I roughed up the contact points where the block and stem meet for adhesion, there’s a lot of poly on the stem. With the wires cut to stand proud and their tops painted Iron Work Black and a coat of WOP the block is done. So is all of the deck furniture, though most not yet mounted, making this something of a milestone. Next up is making the bowsprit. I need it to determine the location of other pieces. Once I have that done I’ll next rig the cannons while there’s room then mount the remaining deck furniture, bow sprit, and mast. I’ll pause to enjoy the work, then it’s time to rig. One decision I haven’t made is whether to include anchor hawse running across the deck. I like the look but not sure I want to cut holes in the forward hatch, I’ll have to decide soon though. Thanks for all the likes and comments, I appreciate and enjoy your taking the time.

Very nice work. Cherry is such beautiful wood. I’ve used it on two models, I like how it ages, looks even better after a few years.

Thanks for the kind comments Garthog. They really do look authentic with application of the powder. The only thing is they don’t up to a lot of handling once it’s applied, they mar easily, then it’s out with the softest brush to buff it up again. The two long guns, 6 pounders I think, do in fact have a small bore. I’m not sure if it’s accurate or a manufacturing choice. Chuck’s mini kits, of which these are, are so good I’m sure he had a reason. Maybe the brass barrel being so long and skinny wouldn’t hold up with a larger bore.

It takes a little work and application, especially for the barrels, but it really is good stuff once you get the hang of it. Rusty Brown from the Doc O’Briens Weathering Powders set. Be sure to get the weathering powder brush set too. I use three different very soft brushes to apply, burnish, and buff it. I do like how they look, won’t do another cannon without it.

Thanks Alex. I went to high school in Heidelberg, we lived there for 7 years. Our graduation and our prom were held in the castle, beautiful city.

There are many people much better than me, both them are. I’ll use any tool I can to do my own best work. Chris Watten puts hie prototypes together with a Stanley knife. Such things are beyond me.

Thanks Rusty, representative of some points along the way😂

Thanks Chuck. I’ve become a big fan of Weathering Powder, it gave such a very different and much nicer look to the carronades. Thanks for sharing that in the monograph. I am happy to have rounded my last axel for a while.

Not sure what that lesson would be. I enjoy the use of all tools, including those with or without power. I don’t think something is better or worse based on the tool used. Look at the incredible work of Marslav who uses CNC with his mill. That’s also art.

My Arsenal is complete Now which way do they point...

Thanks BE. I have a lot of such happy days and determining angles😳 It’s all fun though...afterwards...

Is there a source for the needed Cherry wood from the materials list?

Thanks Garthog, I appreciate the comment. You should get the mill. Relatively inexpensive and very handy.

Thanks Bob, that is my hope.

Thank you. The Alaskan Yellow Cedar really is pretty wood, and easy to work with for a model.

I appreciate all the likes and those taking the time to comment. For Chuck to refer to my post as outstanding is special. I can respond that Cheerful has been and continues to be an outstanding experience. Thanks to all for the encouragement. I hope the log helps others to enjoy this model as much as I have.