glbarlow
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glbarlow got a reaction from thibaultron in Chris Watton and Vanguard Models news and updates Volume 2
I’d say go with the plans, however from a model perspective six of typical hand pumps around what appears to be the mast would result in a very crowded look and likely make rigging more challenging than it needs to be so my input is chain pumps. They are a nice look on a deck. …..later after the refit, seeing his men jammed together trying to pump out water Aubrey replaced the hand pumps…
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glbarlow got a reaction from JpR62 in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by JpR62 - 1:48 scale
I enjoyed making the mast coat a little more special. Nice work on yours.
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glbarlow got a reaction from CiscoH in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by JpR62 - 1:48 scale
I enjoyed making the mast coat a little more special. Nice work on yours.
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glbarlow reacted to JpR62 in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by JpR62 - 1:48 scale
Thank you to all the 'Likes'.
My work on the various elements on the Cheerful's deck continues with the construction of two additional pieces: the galley stack and the mast coat.
The mast coat
I used my Proxxon MF 70 mini milling machine again, this time with its dividing head. First, I glued a piece of 'martyr' wood to a short section of a wooden rod. Then I used double-sided scotch to glue the piece of wood from which I'll cut the mast coat.
Then all you have to do is 'play' with the milling machine and its dividing head.
We disassemble the various components and refine the result with a file and sandpaper.
This dividing head is really easy to use and produces a perfectly round part.
The galley stack
Measurements are taken from the plan. The only thing I paid attention to was the final sanding. As this piece is supposed to be made of metal, it has to be perfectly smooth, so that you can no longer see the wood grain. So I sanded it several times, each time moving on to a finer grain. Fortunately, I had Tamiya sanding sheets in stock, with grit up to 2000. So I cut small rectangles of different grits and glued them to a piece of wood to create a perfectly flat surface.
To be continued
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glbarlow reacted to Trussben in HMS Winchelsea 1764 by Trussben - FINISHED - 1:48
Chapter 9 completed with the spanshackles in place.
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glbarlow got a reaction from FrankWouts in HMS Winchelsea 1764 by woodartist - 1:48
My friezes look great as they are printed then sprayed as described in Chuck’s instructions. I’m not sure how paint on paper would hold up over time, but then I’ve never tried it. I was skeptical of the paper friezes at the start, but now two-three years since I applied them I’m more than happy with the result.
However it’s your model and you should do as you wish, conducting experiments is always a good plan.
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glbarlow got a reaction from mtaylor in Chris Watton and Vanguard Models news and updates Volume 2
Yay!!!!!
Is there a new thread to follow?
Great that you’re making it true to the actual Surprise/book version, not the Rose, though I bet some commenter will take exception.
I care nothing about tables or sloths, glad for long guns. I’ll be on the first buy list.
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glbarlow got a reaction from CiscoH in HMS Winchelsea 1764 by woodartist - 1:48
My friezes look great as they are printed then sprayed as described in Chuck’s instructions. I’m not sure how paint on paper would hold up over time, but then I’ve never tried it. I was skeptical of the paper friezes at the start, but now two-three years since I applied them I’m more than happy with the result.
However it’s your model and you should do as you wish, conducting experiments is always a good plan.
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glbarlow got a reaction from Blue Ensign in HMS Winchelsea 1764 by glbarlow - FINISHED - 1:48
Please ignore the poor photography and messy work bench.
My “big wood” artist friend has completed the stand and future home for my Winchelsea. Note how the grain imitates the bow breaking the water. He intentionally selected this piece of wood for that reason. The maple inlay compliments the cedar as does the African Wenge compliment the colors of the ship. You know the Byrnes thickness sander many of us have? He has the big boy version, he ran this piece through it multiple times, routed out the edges for the inlay then ran it through several more times.
I wasn’t sure about the lacquered finish until we set the ship on it. It reflects the underside of the boat, so that bottom planking isn’t lost from sight after all, an extra dimension for viewing. We had multiple ‘fittings’ to get the brackets just right, they are a work of art by themselves, carved from the same Wenge as the base.
I’m really excited by the time and expertise Bill put into this. Really nice to have a friend with these skills, far beyond anything I could do and a perfect home for my Winchelsea. Now I just have to get back in the workshop to finish it.
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glbarlow got a reaction from CODY in HMS Sphinx by Delf - Vanguard Models - 1:64 scale
Yep, that’s the solution, red I think.
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glbarlow got a reaction from Blue Ensign in Medway Longboat 1742 by Blue Ensign - FINISHED - Syren Ship Model Company - ½” scale
I agree with Rusty, there is always another model that needs building. Two dozen has a nice ring.
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glbarlow got a reaction from Ronald-V in HM Cutter Sherbourne by Stuka - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1:64
Isopropyl alcohol is useful in loosening white/ yellow glue (not CA) glue, a modelers best friend, a better than sawing. Isolate the area with paper towels, apply it with a dropper and give it seconds not minutes to work. It may take more than once for yellow glue, white PVA separates quickly.
Never be reluctant to remove, back up, restart, replace. These are wood models, not assemble in place plastic ones. Wood is very forgiving if treated carefully. I’ve backed up on hull planking that I often feel like I’ve planked three sides of a hull. Often laser cut parts are cut a little big on purpose to allow for variations in each build, no two models are the same. You can sand it smaller, can’t make in bigger. As pointed out getting the ‘infrastructure’ or bones of the model correct is crucial to your enjoyment at later stages.
Vanguard models are excellent, both for quality of parts and depth of instruction. You’re off to a good start. Have fun. Although without Chris’ skill and while I have that mouse sander I rarely use it for fear of losing the symmetry of the hull. I just sand away by hand.
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glbarlow got a reaction from Stuka in HM Cutter Sherbourne by Stuka - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1:64
Isopropyl alcohol is useful in loosening white/ yellow glue (not CA) glue, a modelers best friend, a better than sawing. Isolate the area with paper towels, apply it with a dropper and give it seconds not minutes to work. It may take more than once for yellow glue, white PVA separates quickly.
Never be reluctant to remove, back up, restart, replace. These are wood models, not assemble in place plastic ones. Wood is very forgiving if treated carefully. I’ve backed up on hull planking that I often feel like I’ve planked three sides of a hull. Often laser cut parts are cut a little big on purpose to allow for variations in each build, no two models are the same. You can sand it smaller, can’t make in bigger. As pointed out getting the ‘infrastructure’ or bones of the model correct is crucial to your enjoyment at later stages.
Vanguard models are excellent, both for quality of parts and depth of instruction. You’re off to a good start. Have fun. Although without Chris’ skill and while I have that mouse sander I rarely use it for fear of losing the symmetry of the hull. I just sand away by hand.
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glbarlow got a reaction from Craigie65 in HM Cutter Sherbourne by Stuka - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1:64
Isopropyl alcohol is useful in loosening white/ yellow glue (not CA) glue, a modelers best friend, a better than sawing. Isolate the area with paper towels, apply it with a dropper and give it seconds not minutes to work. It may take more than once for yellow glue, white PVA separates quickly.
Never be reluctant to remove, back up, restart, replace. These are wood models, not assemble in place plastic ones. Wood is very forgiving if treated carefully. I’ve backed up on hull planking that I often feel like I’ve planked three sides of a hull. Often laser cut parts are cut a little big on purpose to allow for variations in each build, no two models are the same. You can sand it smaller, can’t make in bigger. As pointed out getting the ‘infrastructure’ or bones of the model correct is crucial to your enjoyment at later stages.
Vanguard models are excellent, both for quality of parts and depth of instruction. You’re off to a good start. Have fun. Although without Chris’ skill and while I have that mouse sander I rarely use it for fear of losing the symmetry of the hull. I just sand away by hand.
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glbarlow got a reaction from chris watton in HM Cutter Sherbourne by Stuka - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1:64
Isopropyl alcohol is useful in loosening white/ yellow glue (not CA) glue, a modelers best friend, a better than sawing. Isolate the area with paper towels, apply it with a dropper and give it seconds not minutes to work. It may take more than once for yellow glue, white PVA separates quickly.
Never be reluctant to remove, back up, restart, replace. These are wood models, not assemble in place plastic ones. Wood is very forgiving if treated carefully. I’ve backed up on hull planking that I often feel like I’ve planked three sides of a hull. Often laser cut parts are cut a little big on purpose to allow for variations in each build, no two models are the same. You can sand it smaller, can’t make in bigger. As pointed out getting the ‘infrastructure’ or bones of the model correct is crucial to your enjoyment at later stages.
Vanguard models are excellent, both for quality of parts and depth of instruction. You’re off to a good start. Have fun. Although without Chris’ skill and while I have that mouse sander I rarely use it for fear of losing the symmetry of the hull. I just sand away by hand.
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glbarlow got a reaction from Rustyj in Chris Watton and Vanguard Models news and updates Volume 2
Yay!!!!!
Is there a new thread to follow?
Great that you’re making it true to the actual Surprise/book version, not the Rose, though I bet some commenter will take exception.
I care nothing about tables or sloths, glad for long guns. I’ll be on the first buy list.
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glbarlow got a reaction from CiscoH in Medway Longboat 1742 by Blue Ensign - FINISHED - Syren Ship Model Company - ½” scale
I agree with Rusty, there is always another model that needs building. Two dozen has a nice ring.
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glbarlow got a reaction from DelF in HMS Sphinx by Delf - Vanguard Models - 1:64 scale
Yep, that’s the solution, red I think.
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glbarlow got a reaction from DonSangria in HMS Sphinx by Delf - Vanguard Models - 1:64 scale
Yep, that’s the solution, red I think.
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glbarlow got a reaction from thibaultron in Chris Watton and Vanguard Models news and updates Volume 2
Yay!!!!!
Is there a new thread to follow?
Great that you’re making it true to the actual Surprise/book version, not the Rose, though I bet some commenter will take exception.
I care nothing about tables or sloths, glad for long guns. I’ll be on the first buy list.
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glbarlow reacted to Rustyj in Sloop Speedwell 1752 by Rustyj - Syren Ship Model Company - 1:32 Scale - POF Sloop
Well, I'm back and will be heading to the workshop this weekend to continue the adventure.
Hi Ben,
All the frames are seated on the keel at the same level. It might be an illusion with the picture. I looked at the model last night and there is a gentle and consistent rise from the dead flat frame fore and aft. I think I've got it right.
Time to limber up the arm and start sanding!
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glbarlow reacted to Rustyj in Sloop Speedwell 1752 by Rustyj - Syren Ship Model Company - 1:32 Scale - POF Sloop
Thank you for sharing and your build looks great! Greg has good advice and either method should produce results that you will like. I'll be sure to pay attention to that area once I get there.
Also, thanks everyone for stopping by and all the likes.
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glbarlow reacted to Rustyj in Sloop Speedwell 1752 by Rustyj - Syren Ship Model Company - 1:32 Scale - POF Sloop
I'm slowly working my way aft adding frames, sweep port and gun port framing. Nothing unusual just install a frame, keep checking the template and plans and then add another one then repeat. Four frames to go then it will be time to do some preliminary fairing the hull.
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glbarlow got a reaction from hollowneck in Chris Watton and Vanguard Models news and updates Volume 2
Yay!!!!!
Is there a new thread to follow?
Great that you’re making it true to the actual Surprise/book version, not the Rose, though I bet some commenter will take exception.
I care nothing about tables or sloths, glad for long guns. I’ll be on the first buy list.
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glbarlow got a reaction from Canute in Chris Watton and Vanguard Models news and updates Volume 2
Yay!!!!!
Is there a new thread to follow?
Great that you’re making it true to the actual Surprise/book version, not the Rose, though I bet some commenter will take exception.
I care nothing about tables or sloths, glad for long guns. I’ll be on the first buy list.
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