Charter33
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Charter33 got a reaction from Mark P in Whats best Air dried or Kiln wood
Hi and welcome to this highly informative and supportive site!
It's been my experience that there is little difference in working with wood that has been kiln dried or air dried as long as it has been done sufficiently in the case of air dried. As a rule of thumb it takes about a year per inch of thickness. Poorly seasoned wood will very likely warp, twist or split. Kiln dried tends to be more expensive because of the higher energy costs involved (plus all the possible associated environmental impacts). There is more control over the final moisture content however, and the process is much quicker - months rather than years. Producers often use a combination of the two forms of seasoning to balance cost against time.
Just one other point to consider - kiln dried timber can have a different appearance to air dried. Beech in particular can take on a 'pinker' colour when kiln dried compared to a 'creamier' finish of air dried. This has something to do with the steam that is pumped into the kiln initially to deal with any insect or fungal issues prior to the main heating to reduce the moisture content I think.
Hope this helps.
Graham.
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Charter33 got a reaction from Canute in Whats best Air dried or Kiln wood
Hi and welcome to this highly informative and supportive site!
It's been my experience that there is little difference in working with wood that has been kiln dried or air dried as long as it has been done sufficiently in the case of air dried. As a rule of thumb it takes about a year per inch of thickness. Poorly seasoned wood will very likely warp, twist or split. Kiln dried tends to be more expensive because of the higher energy costs involved (plus all the possible associated environmental impacts). There is more control over the final moisture content however, and the process is much quicker - months rather than years. Producers often use a combination of the two forms of seasoning to balance cost against time.
Just one other point to consider - kiln dried timber can have a different appearance to air dried. Beech in particular can take on a 'pinker' colour when kiln dried compared to a 'creamier' finish of air dried. This has something to do with the steam that is pumped into the kiln initially to deal with any insect or fungal issues prior to the main heating to reduce the moisture content I think.
Hope this helps.
Graham.
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Charter33 got a reaction from BETAQDAVE in Whats best Air dried or Kiln wood
Hi and welcome to this highly informative and supportive site!
It's been my experience that there is little difference in working with wood that has been kiln dried or air dried as long as it has been done sufficiently in the case of air dried. As a rule of thumb it takes about a year per inch of thickness. Poorly seasoned wood will very likely warp, twist or split. Kiln dried tends to be more expensive because of the higher energy costs involved (plus all the possible associated environmental impacts). There is more control over the final moisture content however, and the process is much quicker - months rather than years. Producers often use a combination of the two forms of seasoning to balance cost against time.
Just one other point to consider - kiln dried timber can have a different appearance to air dried. Beech in particular can take on a 'pinker' colour when kiln dried compared to a 'creamier' finish of air dried. This has something to do with the steam that is pumped into the kiln initially to deal with any insect or fungal issues prior to the main heating to reduce the moisture content I think.
Hope this helps.
Graham.
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Charter33 got a reaction from mtaylor in Whats best Air dried or Kiln wood
Hi and welcome to this highly informative and supportive site!
It's been my experience that there is little difference in working with wood that has been kiln dried or air dried as long as it has been done sufficiently in the case of air dried. As a rule of thumb it takes about a year per inch of thickness. Poorly seasoned wood will very likely warp, twist or split. Kiln dried tends to be more expensive because of the higher energy costs involved (plus all the possible associated environmental impacts). There is more control over the final moisture content however, and the process is much quicker - months rather than years. Producers often use a combination of the two forms of seasoning to balance cost against time.
Just one other point to consider - kiln dried timber can have a different appearance to air dried. Beech in particular can take on a 'pinker' colour when kiln dried compared to a 'creamier' finish of air dried. This has something to do with the steam that is pumped into the kiln initially to deal with any insect or fungal issues prior to the main heating to reduce the moisture content I think.
Hope this helps.
Graham.
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Charter33 reacted to Kevin Kenny in HMS Thorn by Kevin Kenny - 1:48 scale - Swan-class - David Antscherl practium
I have decided to reduce the end at the stern on strake 7 to 5” instead of 10.5” so that i end below the top of stern keelson. I have noticed in one of the builds that the end was also reduced to two strakes treated similarly to the front of the stemson. Maybe i should have curved #6 more at the stern end!
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Charter33 reacted to Blue Ensign in HMS Victory Rudder- rigging
Hi Kevin,
Here is a shot of how the line is currently set up on Victory. (or was a few years ago)
It passes thro' the Mizen channels and is secured with a knot.
I recall that the guides at the time were unable to understand what I was talking about and let me get on the Poop to show them.
Doesn't necessarily help matters but perhaps when required lines were attached held by the knot.
.
Regards,
B.E.
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Charter33 reacted to Kevin in HMS VICTORY by Kevin - FINISHED - Caldercraft - 1/72
Good evening everyone
stbd side anchors are now in, but may need to re-do them as i am pretty well guessing how they actually attach the after ones, but until them they are quite secure, and LOL given me another load of snaggy bits for lines that i am replacing
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Charter33 got a reaction from Old Collingwood in HMS Victory by Patrick Haw - Caldercraft - Scale 1/72
Thanks for the comments you added to my build log Patrick - your comments are much appreciated.
I've just been reading your build log (can't understand how I managed to miss it before!). Lots of good advice and I gained some important insights into the challenges that lie ahead. Thank you - your log will be a regular port of call and I look forward to following it in the future.
Progress with my own model has also been adversely effected similar health issues over the last couple of years, both my own and the Admiral's, so I think I know where you're coming from....
Keep up the good work.
Graham
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Charter33 reacted to Patrick Haw in HMS Victory by Charter33 - Caldercraft - Scale 1:72
A very nice build Graham, I like your precision work. Just getting back to my Jotika Victory build after a few year hiatus!
Good luck
Patrick
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Charter33 reacted to michael mott in Skipjack by michael mott - 1/8th scale - SMALL - 19 foot open launch
Carl, short answer, no. But if you mean "sharing the ways that I do things" as teaching then I suppose you could call it that. It just seems to me that so many members of this forum have taught me so much about model ship building, that it only feels right to pass on some of the things that I do that might be helpful or useful to the other members. Sometimes it feel a bit like showing off but that is not the intent. One of the amazing things to me about this hobby, is that the members who share their knowledge here bring to the table without realizing it all of their own background knowledge, and each profession or workplace job teaches them skills and ways of seeing things that I don't. So in that sense we are all teachers.
Thanks for the question Carl
Michael
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Charter33 reacted to Kevin in HMS VICTORY by Kevin - FINISHED - Caldercraft - 1/72
Good evening everyone
still on track to complete this build, spending as much time as i can at the weekends, with all the other normal stuff that goes on there in real life
the last of the main yards are now made and being rigged into position, LOL i now have to think about both ends when turning her around, most of the rigging should then be completed by this time next week
these are the gaff and Driver boom
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Charter33 reacted to nickedw in HMS Victory by nickedw - Caldercraft - 1/72nd Scale - First wooden Ship build
Been cracking on with the much-dreaded hammock-crane netting today.
Turns out it wasn't too bad. I developed a technique that uses a paper pattern cut and then folded to the shape the net needs to be. I then cut my tulle slightly larger than this, drop the both into the opening and weight down with a scalpel which is heavy enough and just the right shape to make the net conform. I then stitch one vertical end as below
Once a vertical end is stitched, I then fold the top edge of the tulle down and stitch the rest as below:-
Finally seal everything with watered down PVA and trim the edges. I haven't trimmed the one in the photo yet in case you're wondering)
The paper makes it conform to shape, gives a high contrast (and isolation of the work) and acts as a guide for the needle. So it turns out a job I've been dreading wasn't that bad in the end. I've also discovered how useful draping a tissue over sticky-out stuff is to prevent snags when sewing stuff like this is!
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Charter33 reacted to Bill Voss in The resurrection of the Flying Fish.
In 1975 I started building the Model Shipways Flying Fish (solid wood hull) When I was at the point of rigging the shrouds, the cat tore up the forestays tree tops and masts. Discouraged the model went into the attic. About 8 months ago. I was cleaning the attic and decided to restart the project. Heavy dust was removed and all the broken pieces were fixed or replaced. Now I’m rigging the yard braces and spencer gaffs. Not bad for a 40+ year project.
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Charter33 got a reaction from etubino in HMS Victory by Charter33 - Caldercraft - Scale 1:72
Hi,
I've managed to make a bit more progress......
I did a dry run with the skid beam assembly fitted to the quarter deck to check the height the supports needed to be trimmed to. This turned out to be a couple of mm shorter than the drawing on the plan. I came up with this aid to help remove the correct amount from each end and then sand the ends square.
The companionway guard rails could now be completed. I opened out the holes in the end stanchions so two threads could pass through, using one to 'serve' the other.
With the steam trunk fitted, plus the galley chimney (shown on the plan but not mentioned in the instructions!!!) it was time to fit the quarter deck.
The rear third of the deck glued in place, the weights used to hold things together while the glue dried giving the appearance of an 18th Century container ship.........
The skid beam assembly has been painted as have the various brace bitts.
The front of the deck, including these, was then glued onto place.
Next task - assembling the beakhead bulkhead prior to fitting....
Cheers,
Graham
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Charter33 got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in HMS Victory by Charter33 - Caldercraft - Scale 1:72
Hi,
I've managed to make a bit more progress......
I did a dry run with the skid beam assembly fitted to the quarter deck to check the height the supports needed to be trimmed to. This turned out to be a couple of mm shorter than the drawing on the plan. I came up with this aid to help remove the correct amount from each end and then sand the ends square.
The companionway guard rails could now be completed. I opened out the holes in the end stanchions so two threads could pass through, using one to 'serve' the other.
With the steam trunk fitted, plus the galley chimney (shown on the plan but not mentioned in the instructions!!!) it was time to fit the quarter deck.
The rear third of the deck glued in place, the weights used to hold things together while the glue dried giving the appearance of an 18th Century container ship.........
The skid beam assembly has been painted as have the various brace bitts.
The front of the deck, including these, was then glued onto place.
Next task - assembling the beakhead bulkhead prior to fitting....
Cheers,
Graham
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Charter33 got a reaction from Gabek in HMS Victory by Charter33 - Caldercraft - Scale 1:72
Hi,
I've managed to make a bit more progress......
I did a dry run with the skid beam assembly fitted to the quarter deck to check the height the supports needed to be trimmed to. This turned out to be a couple of mm shorter than the drawing on the plan. I came up with this aid to help remove the correct amount from each end and then sand the ends square.
The companionway guard rails could now be completed. I opened out the holes in the end stanchions so two threads could pass through, using one to 'serve' the other.
With the steam trunk fitted, plus the galley chimney (shown on the plan but not mentioned in the instructions!!!) it was time to fit the quarter deck.
The rear third of the deck glued in place, the weights used to hold things together while the glue dried giving the appearance of an 18th Century container ship.........
The skid beam assembly has been painted as have the various brace bitts.
The front of the deck, including these, was then glued onto place.
Next task - assembling the beakhead bulkhead prior to fitting....
Cheers,
Graham
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Charter33 got a reaction from CaptnBirdseye in HMS Victory by Charter33 - Caldercraft - Scale 1:72
Hi,
Fitting the upper deck screen bulkhead proved a little more challenging than the simple instruction in the manual. To get it to fit accurately around the beam shelves, stringers and waterways numerous card templates were made before finally trimming and adjusting the screen.
To square off the ends of the support pillars and staircase balusters I designed and made these.....
... a pair of sanding aids for each. The '2nd' of each pair has the depth of the recess reduced by 0.4 mm to compensate for the initial reduction in thickness.
All done .....
... and taken back to the original colour with walnut wood stain.
Bases of supports and balusters were drilled and fitted with thin brass rod, CA glued in place, before being finally located into matching sized holes drilled into the coamings or deck as required.
The elm tree pump was fitted in a similar way.
Cheers,
Graham.
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Charter33 got a reaction from Robert29 in HMS Victory by Charter33 - Caldercraft - Scale 1:72
Hi,
Fitting the upper deck screen bulkhead proved a little more challenging than the simple instruction in the manual. To get it to fit accurately around the beam shelves, stringers and waterways numerous card templates were made before finally trimming and adjusting the screen.
To square off the ends of the support pillars and staircase balusters I designed and made these.....
... a pair of sanding aids for each. The '2nd' of each pair has the depth of the recess reduced by 0.4 mm to compensate for the initial reduction in thickness.
All done .....
... and taken back to the original colour with walnut wood stain.
Bases of supports and balusters were drilled and fitted with thin brass rod, CA glued in place, before being finally located into matching sized holes drilled into the coamings or deck as required.
The elm tree pump was fitted in a similar way.
Cheers,
Graham.
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Charter33 got a reaction from el cid in HMS Victory by Charter33 - Caldercraft - Scale 1:72
Hi,
I've managed to make a bit more progress......
I did a dry run with the skid beam assembly fitted to the quarter deck to check the height the supports needed to be trimmed to. This turned out to be a couple of mm shorter than the drawing on the plan. I came up with this aid to help remove the correct amount from each end and then sand the ends square.
The companionway guard rails could now be completed. I opened out the holes in the end stanchions so two threads could pass through, using one to 'serve' the other.
With the steam trunk fitted, plus the galley chimney (shown on the plan but not mentioned in the instructions!!!) it was time to fit the quarter deck.
The rear third of the deck glued in place, the weights used to hold things together while the glue dried giving the appearance of an 18th Century container ship.........
The skid beam assembly has been painted as have the various brace bitts.
The front of the deck, including these, was then glued onto place.
Next task - assembling the beakhead bulkhead prior to fitting....
Cheers,
Graham
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Charter33 reacted to Kevin in HMS VICTORY by Kevin - FINISHED - Caldercraft - 1/72
good evening everyone, i have been quite fortunate to have had a 4 day weekend off, and the wife away, so just me and my doggie
a majority of the rigging is now done, the after sheet block are still to be made, but i want to look at where i am going to put the ships boats first, then sort out/make the gaff
i have done quite a bit of reworking on the beak head, and re-run some lines as i am finding that they were run incorrectly, and two lines were broken
i have even replaced a few of the missing copper tiles
with the plans i have now highlighted the lines completed, and lol some were found to be missing, but will go in this weekend and as as the stun booms
lots still to do, but hopefully a few pictures will show what i have been doing
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Charter33 reacted to paulb in HMS Victory by paulb - Caldercraft - 1:72
Quarter Galleries
The quarter galleries indeed. And I thought the bow was difficult...
I started with the starboard gallery. It was only now that I realized the lower three window frames were sloping up towards the stern.
After doubting for a long time I decided to cut out the lower windows, and refit them, starting on the port side.
And refit this panel and redo the strips and paintwork
Now the same process on starboard.
The gallery on starboard has also been changed
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Charter33 reacted to KeithAug in Germania Nova 1911 by KeithAug - FINISHED - Scale 1:36 - replica of schooner Germania 1908
And, in the fullness of time, the frames were scrolled!!!!!!! ------All 46 of them.
I had one mental aberration where I jumped from one frame line to another and as a result cut a keel section too thin - that's the one with the brown edge. To make good I stuck strips of mahogany to the edge to widen the keel back out to where it should have been and then sanded back to the correct line. At this stage I haven't removed the templates because I need them for the next step.
To make sure that I maintain alignment while setting the frames on the building board I accurately drilled alignment holes. The holes at the deck end will be slotted out to mate with a wooden strip on the building board while the holes at the keel end will get a 6mm steel alignment rod.
The holes were drilled small and opened out with a 6mm diameter milling cutter to produce an accurate hole size.
I skewered the frames on the steel alignment rod as I went along.
It looked pretty good with the exception of frame 15 which was visually too fat. I will adjust it back and post the corrected frame profile in the next post. Don't be deceived by the char on the edge of some of the frames - I haven't suddenly invested in a laser cutter. The char is the result of my frugal nature which prevents me from changing the paper on the sanding disc until its well past its sell by date.
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Charter33 reacted to Kevin in HMS VICTORY by Kevin - FINISHED - Caldercraft - 1/72
Good evening everyone
the Mizzen mast continues, and progress is better than expected, I have a 4 day weekend coming up, and the Admiral is away for two of them so i am hoping to finish the rigging within a couple of weeks
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Charter33 got a reaction from Canute in HMS Triton by Gabek - 1:96 - cross-section
Kindred spirits - so it's not just me!!!
Forced into semi-retirement from a career in teaching by health issues, I had great plans for all that wonderful time I would gain - model ship building in daylight hours (Victory and Triton), re-building my Norton etc.. Fat chance!!! The Boss (Admiral) had other ideas including not only renovating the bathroom but also the sitting room and then the kitchen, and all on top of the usual daily tasks essential to achieve that secret to married bliss ie. anything for a quiet life. I now work in the classroom three days a week 'for a rest'. Naps, naps? no time for such luxuries. So much wood to shape ..... so little time ....
Excellent work, Gabek. I'll be following your progress with interest.
Graham
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Charter33 got a reaction from Gabek in HMS Triton by Gabek - 1:96 - cross-section
Kindred spirits - so it's not just me!!!
Forced into semi-retirement from a career in teaching by health issues, I had great plans for all that wonderful time I would gain - model ship building in daylight hours (Victory and Triton), re-building my Norton etc.. Fat chance!!! The Boss (Admiral) had other ideas including not only renovating the bathroom but also the sitting room and then the kitchen, and all on top of the usual daily tasks essential to achieve that secret to married bliss ie. anything for a quiet life. I now work in the classroom three days a week 'for a rest'. Naps, naps? no time for such luxuries. So much wood to shape ..... so little time ....
Excellent work, Gabek. I'll be following your progress with interest.
Graham
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