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Everything posted by Elia
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wefalck, Thank you. Yes, the wooden portion of the blocks weren't part of the load path, but kept the rope on the sheave from jamming or getting tangling with other lines. In thinking through your suggestion on painting - my plan will be to pick a base color of light to medium tan, and then apply over it a medium to darker brown color, attempting to leave the base color somewhat showing through. This will be a learning experience for me. Interestingly I fell into what now appears in hindsight to be a similar effect - but on the ironwork. I mentioned previously that it was galvanized. I had painted some of the ironwork black initially. When I went to repaint it with Floquil old silver (or whatever it is called) the silver didn't fully cover the black. I thought it looked better with the black undecoar than when the britannia parts were solely painted with the old silver - they looked to 'bright' to my eyes. Cheers, Elia
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wefalck, So true - the very very small iron strops on the 3/32" and 1/8" blocks were just too small for me to understand how to make the strop, drill it for the sheave pin, and insert the strop into the block. At larger scales it didn't seem as difficult (5/16", 1/4", etc). On Arethusa both the blocks and masts/spars were not painted. The masts/spars were varnished. The blocks were also varnished. They very well were different wood species - though I don't know specifically what the blocks might have been. All I have are old black and white prints of the ship. Do you have any suggestions or thoughts on the block wood species, coloring? Cheers, Elia
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Thanks all for the ideas or suggestions! Jay, Frank, That is what I originally had had in mind, and will try. I think I need to make and finish one of the masts to get an idea of the colors, tones, and graining patterns. Russ, What is that toner by Floquil for britannia? Does it act as a primer? I've used and like their gray enamel primer. Or does it somehow alter the appearance (color, texture) of the britannia? wefalck, Thank you for the suggestions. I don't have an airbrush and my experience with Floquil enamel spray cans was less than desired. I could never get a nice, thin even coating. It always yielded thick, almost orange peeled surfaces. So I think I'm limited to just brush application. I have a couple of cans of dullcote and could use that to protect any acrylic 'topcoat' over the base coloring. As noted just before I think I need to finish a mast so as to get a basis for a proper block color. I've been using Liquitex acrylics for the hull color and have burnt umber tubes around. Brian, The internally iron stropped blocks look visibly different than older era wooden blocks with external iron or rope stropping. I may have made more trouble for myself with having to paint the blocks, but the shape/configuration of the blocks is right for Arethusa's age. I had considered for some time making wooden blocks, but when I saw how many of the 3/32" long and 1/8" long blocks there were, and they would have had internal iron strops (think narrow, thin brash strips)....it hurt my head. Without high precision machining capability I couldn't see how I would make the block elements. There are quite a few excellent mass produced wooden blocks down to the 3/32" long size but they just aren't the right configuration for my ship. Barehook, Interestingly - by Arethusa's time the iron components were galvanized - so that all of the 'ironwork' on the ship, save for the anchors, the deck pumps, and a few odds and ends, where a dull silver. You'll see when I post update pictures the galvanized ironwork. It appears quite different than black ironwork. It has taken me a little time to warm up to the silver as I innately expect the ironwork to be black. So blackening won't help this cause. Thank you for the suggestion none the less. Cheers, Elia
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Shipwrights, I've made the decision to use purchased (Blue Jacket Shipcrafters) cast Britannia internally iron stepped blocks for my Arethusa model. I'm now faced with a cosmetic challenge: getting the cast Britannia blocks to resemble oiled wooden blocks. The masts and spars will all be oiled and varnished, at least in appearance, and I want the blocks to not stand out or be obviously not wood. Do any of you have suggestions on painting techniques which would yield reasonable and acceptable results? I'm open to trying any technique which might work. I have painted with Floquil enamels, Poly S acrylics, and Liquitex artist's acrylics. Thank you in advance, Elia
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EdT, I've been using Artist Acrylics (Liquitex soft body) for much of my current schooner model's painting. I think it works acceptably for broad brush areas, but I don't like it for any detail work, particularly when painting intricit ironwork details made from fine brass wire and whatnot. That is what I love the Floquil enamels for. They can provide a very good single or two coat solid covering of the metalwork without hiding the essentials. I'll have to look into the acrylic gouches. I have to admit I hadn't heard of the prior to your mentioning them. I'm always game to experiment with a new material or finish as a way of improving my modeling. Thanks for the suggestion. Cheers, Elia
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Wow! This is news to me. I use both Floquil enamels and Polyscale acrylics. I really like the Floquil primer and their enamels for painting ironwork, metals, and britannia castings. I'm going out shortly to load up on the colors I like to use. I recall Bob Steinbrunn mentioning that he stores his Floquil enamel bottles upside down, effectively keeping them from drying out and his have lasted for apparently many years. Elia
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John, Stag looks tremendous. She looks close to complete, too. Have you thought about how you'll display the completed Stag? Cheers, Elia
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Allan, With your update today I've now just noticed your POF banks schooner. Very nice! You are moving along smartly. I'll happily follow along. Cheers, Elia
- 86 replies
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- schooner
- effie m morrisey
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Ed, I too very much look forward to this next build of yours. Clippers are such elegant and majestic ships - I'm glad you chose her. Cheers, Elia
- 3,607 replies
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- young america
- clipper
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Tim, The lifts assembly is looking good. I can't wait for you to start shaping the rough hull. That is a gorgeous scene. Do you know when it was taken? Beautiful ships... Elia
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Tim, Neat build. Atlantic is one sleek ship. I've always admired it and considered the kit as a future build. I really look forward to seeing your half hull develop. Cheers, Elia
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Eddie, I've been away from MSW for a little while and have just recently returned...to find this smart little Elsie build! Very very nice work. The keel and sternpost repairs were very well done. The hull painting is sharp too. I wish you all the best on your procedure and a speedy and full recovery, and look forward to more of your work. Elia
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Michael, That painted margin plank/covering board looks sweet! I got a good laugh at the 'painter' pictures - I had to do a double take - the size of the model makes them seem feasible. The mast 'ironwork' look great - really really nice. Boy that is one sharp looking cutter model. Elia
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Stephan, Bummer. I understand - once spring and summer arrives I tend to become outdoor focused, and my modeling time wanes. I look forward to your progress once you return to Hesper. Maybe the time will allow you to think through a solution or two on that transom, counter, stanchions, etc. Cheers, Elia
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Sarah, I'm now just catching up with your Harriet Lane build here at MSW 2.0. Your model and progress look great. That little jig and the resulting deadeyes and chainplates are impressively tiny. Very nice work. Cheers, Elia
- 160 replies
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- harriet lane
- model shipways
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