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Everything posted by JohnB40

  1. There is some thing my analog brain can't figure out and I have a question about accessing new posts on the forum since the update. When I click on "All unread content since my last visit",it takes me to the listings, when I then click on the subject I always end upon page one. Why doesn't it direct me to the newest post? What am I missing here?
  2. That is some really fine work there, Peter. What adhesive did you use to attach the photo-etched and cast parts? The transom looks so neatly done. The MKK worked well for the panes. I have some ready in my supplies for when I get to that point,it is good to see what it looks like when applied. John
  3. Hi Boris, I watched an interesting show on TV last night about finding the wreck of the Scharnhorst in the depths off of Stanley. After following your build I could identify every part of the ship the ROV was filming. What a pity to see such a fine looking ship torn to pieces by 11" shells laying on the bottom. I was thinking of the lost lives of all the sailors shown on your posted photos and those on the program who went down with the ship......What a waste.
  4. Hi Mike, I think this is great. One of my all time favorite cars. A friend had the van version in Morocco,nothing could stop it.
  5. Your Confederacy looks great Peter, I have enjoyed following your build. I am awaiting photos of your final sanding thickness of the inner bulwarks. Comparing what you have already done to my more or less untouched ones,it looks like I better stock up on sandpaper.
  6. I use a Micro-Mark table saw (non tilting). It is made in Japan and with a Proxxon fine blade it has served me well. If I am careful setting the fence and feed slowly it can make a cut with an accuracy of .004" when measured with a caliper. This surprises me somewhat for the price paid. Maybe I got lucky,but I certainly have no complaints
  7. I couldn't use the 1/16" basswood strips for the moldings,so I used boxwood supplied by a Luthiers supply which I cut to size on my Micro-Mark table saw. The black painting used was mars black artists acrylic,very diluted and many coats applied. I first used golden oak Minwax oil based stain,but didn't like the result. I sanded it down,used a really diluted shellac mixed from flakes as thin sealing coat. This I sanded lightly and used General Finishes water based oak stain wiped off quickly. I finally ended with more or less blotchy free look...
  8. Greetings to all, Whilst being under house arrest and inspired by the other Confederacy builds on the forum,I have at long last finished the planking above the main wales. As I'm about to flip her over on her deck to carry on with hull planking,I thought I would share a few photos. I have included a few of the jig I used for bending planks for the stem and the building board and adjustable height stand. I have another building board made to support the deck to hold her steady for the lower planking.
  9. This is a forum for model ship building...Please let us leave politics off the forum,there are other venues available for that purpose.
  10. Danny, You have achieved a rare thing in life....Friends and great respect from just about every part of the globe. I have greatly enjoyed all your projects and posts. God speed, John
  11. Peter, The construction on your Confederacy looks great. I'm looking forward to viewing future progress. John
  12. Thank you Jaager and Bill for your replies and advise. After posting, I tried bonding with PVA the pear trim to basswood scraps with acrylic painted and stained finish,as well as oil based stain. All finishes had been cured for months. I left all clamped for 24 hours .The oil based stain had the worst adhesion,I could pick it apart with light pressure from my finger nail. The acrylic paint and stain samples adhered a bit better,but the bond was still not that strong. The answer is as you suggested. I will have to cut blue masking tape to 1/16" wide strips and mask the hull where the trim
  13. Greetings to all, A question concerning my Confederacy build...What effect will a stained or painted hull have on the bonding strength of adding wood trim and brass PE parts? I have finally milled some pear planks which I would like to use in their natural colour for the wales,these would have to bond to the basswood stained hull. Searching on the forum and on line I get conflicting views. I would think using a water based stain would give a better adhesion surface than oil based,but I prefer oil based as water based is far more opaque and tends to lift the grain. Any advise on types of s
  14. Hi Dirk, I'm glad to see you return to the Confederacy build. The pear wood looks stunning. Now that the cold wet weather has curtailed most outside activities,I am back at my workbench working at my usual snails pace on my Confederacy. Now that you,Bossman and Peter Bloemendall have active build logs,I hope encourages me to forge ahead with construction and update my log.. On another note,I noticed on your instruction sheet the red "NOTE!!! IMPORTANT NOTE!!! concerning the fairing cap has left me somewhat confused. My MS instruction book makes no reference to this. Could you please
  15. Hi Cristian, Very nice build of the Confederacy. I hope mine turns out as well. I look forward your next project. Bonne Annee. John
  16. 67 year old eyes here. I find myself using an Optivisor (with the small add on lens) quite a lot on other tasks besides model construction,as essential as socks as far as I'm concerned. Real glass is a must. I have an old General Tools pair from the last century in the garage. The plastic lenses have some scratches but I still use them for work out there. When I'm not using either pair,I always place them with the visor part in a gallon Ziploc bag to keep dust etc off the lenses.
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