BLACK VIKING

....in continuing on.......there were more fit issues with the engine / firewall.........the cowl would not seat on the firewall.   it had to do with the cylinder heads and the curvature of the cowl......kept it away from the firewall.  so I had to trim the front edges of the cylinders that won't be seen to conform to the curvature.

I also added a brace to the bottom front of the cockpit frame.  it won't be seen,  and it will help strengthen it when I slide the assembly into the fuselage.  another cross bar was added to it as well.

when dry enough,  the cockpit assembly was slid into place.   the fuselage sides were spread out a little to aide with this.........it worked out reasonably well and fits tight in there.  the second cross bar can be seen.
   

with that being done,  the center wing assembly was cemented into place.
  
paint looks to be another problem.......I created.  the camo is supposed to be light green and Olive....I should have done the light green first,  and streaked the olive after.   the result is that the light green is hardly noticeable........I have to do something about it.  
 
I've made minimum progress with the Memphis and the second hull.......I have been preoccupied with a problem I've been having.   nothing serious........a problem with my left foot......saw the doc and we're in the beginning phase to find out what it is.  more soon  

This the backbone of the vessel at 1/16 scale. length about 57 cm. n
 
note the holes in the keel for ropes that would presumably be used to kedge the vessel to a small grapnel.

the keylock scarf joining the keel sections and the posts to the keel.

an S-scarf joining the timbers of the posts.. Grey resin was used as a filler in the joins and was still present in the excavated wreck.
 
Dick
 
 
 

And, it’s glued in.
It’s not perfect, but it’s not bad for a first try.

Thanks, OC!
 
Thank you everyone for all the likes!
 
The ship’s wheel is ready to install and the binnacle has its first coat of paint:

Hi all . I have cut out a few more bulkheads and the false keel . I must admit they take a lot longer than I thought but I'm not going anywhere so they will take as long as they take. As you can see from the pictures I have cut them way side the line so I can sand them down to the right level. Hopefully it's going to be a nice day tomorrow so I can cut some more. 
Cheers for following 
Martyn

Evening all,    more progress  on the cockpit  I started by painting the instrument panel  this  had the sight added  then  shaded/highlighted, after it was glued to the main assembly  the whole thing was pushed in place in the fuselage.
 
OC.

Instead of just posting my work in regular build order, I thought I'd post an idea of exactly what I've been doing, including working on stuff that's further ahead than the regular sequence. As this is for the manual, it doesn't allow me to sit idle and twiddle my thumbs as parts and paints dry. Instead, I go off on a tangent and work on other things. First up, I'll show you where I currently am with the hull.
 
One task I love doing is removing the bulkhead ears from above the deck. At this point, I feel like I'm actually getting somewhere with a build. These are just snapped off with a pair of pliers and the stubs sanded flush with the false deck. Before I can fit the deck, I spray some red oxide primer around the inside bow and stern areas, as these would be difficult to paint later. The standard laser-engraved limewood deck is then installed using Titebond and then clamped down around the edges to make sure it sits perfectly to the false deck.
 



 
 
Once the deck is down, the inner bulwarks are planked. All planks are first painted. Painting the lowest plank at least helps to stop paint splashing onto the deck. I was unlucky with my planking as the gaps I needed to fill meant that more or less all paint was stripped back down to the woodwork so I could apply some acrylic wood filler. This was then sanded smooth and the various holes in the ply bulwark drilled through to the inside for the various eyebolts etc. The red oxide paint is now reapplied after completing the exterior pear planks and sanding the whole hull exterior smooth.


 
 
The only wales I'll be visiting this year with lockdown are the ones I'll be gluing to the exterior of this hull. The top of the first per plank that was laid is now marked with a pencil to identify where the 3mm x 1mm pear strip will fit. This is two planks below the bottom of the newly cut gun ports. 

 
 
After fitting the 3mm wide plank to each side, a 4mm plank was then butt up directly below it. Masking tape was now applied to either side so I didn't damage the surrounding pear. Sandpaper is now used to smooth the exterior.

 
 
Things start to take further shape as the outer prow is fitted, along with the keel and stern keel post. Some of the supplied clamps are used to keep everything in alignment.

 
 
Whilst that was setting, I made the rudder. Although you'll see copper gudgeons and pintles on this, they are a leftover from the original Speedy kit I have. There Flirt kit will be supplied with these in brass as there's no copper plates on this kit. Cartridge paper is used for the iron bands at either side of the tiller arm location.

 
 
The original masking tape for the wales was removed, simply because I didn't want to risk any sanding dust being lodged in there. The outside edges of the wales were again carefully masked, followed by the rest of the model, and Plastikote black spray applied. There will be no black paint on the bow area as this is being left in bear pear, along with some new laser-engraved per parts. 

 
 
I did say I'd been working on some other stuff, and here it is. We have some grate frames, bitts, windlass, ladders, pumps, capstan and cannon. I still have a lot of work to do on the cutter yet, but as you can see, things are moving at a nice pace.










 
 More when I have it...

Thanx ! 😁
 
The final version of this part. On the left, will come the door of the village...In the meantime, some pictures :  😎
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Some complementary pictures of the carpentry in progress...A stable barn before receiving its wooden covering...
 

 

 
 
... Which will be right here:
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Due to some security firewall issue with this web site, I have lost an entire and comprehensive update on the MPC kit. Therefore, I will only post a few pictures and give some brief explanations (I hate to do things twice).
 
The MPC engine parts were de-chromed in a few minutes, using a warmed ultrasonic cleaner with Super Clean. Parts were assembled, primed and painted Tamiya flat aluminum. Sorry for being so brief, but everything was clearly documented with a galore of pictures in the lost post.
 
The engine was then inserted into the frame and glued in place: 


And finally, the rear shock were installed, locking the rear wheel holder in place: 

I have looked at quite a few pictures of HONDA CB750 of the early days. The engine has very few chrome parts and I have only kept that cover, with the original chrome plating.
I think that most of the time, it is aluminum highly polished: 

 
Now, I need to catch up with the Tamiya kit.....
 
Yves

Frames have been painted with Tamiya Black X-1: 

Yves

Moving along to the front fork. Tamiya fork presents some kind of suspension, whereas MPC is solid. The instructions: 

Working suspension for Tamiya, a lot more simplistic for MPC: 

Tamiya uses a nice brass tubes arrangement and two springs to offer about 5-6 mm of travelling: 

MPC did cast the fork with Chrome plating, which needs to be removed, as there is no chrome on the fork of a CB750: 

All the parts are soaked in that Super Clean degreaser suggested by CDW and Egilman, and after 6 hours, the parts are turned to their original black molding. Other parts only took a few minutes, after setting them in my warmed ultrasound cleaner..... Somehow, the plating on the fork sprue seems to be very thick.
 
Sizes and complexity comparison: 

Finally, forks have been glued, sanded, painted with Tamiya flat aluminum: 

To complete this part of the assembly, here is the Honda Manual page on the fork and a picture of a real Honda CB750 fork: 


You can see how the Tamiya rendering of that part is so exquisite.
 
Yves
 
 

Yep  I was at the airshow  this side of the pond  last year  RIAT19   and we had  the US  Viper display team  throw around an F16  till they broke it,  they had to abort the display  and land.
 
My pic.
 
OC.

Got quite a bit done this evening just as I was researching the net about the 35th my son shyped and he answered  some questions about the top of the tail it's all yellow two tone =wing leader, lights on the rear of plane the  parts looked like gas tank covers.The plane has the pilots name on the left side and his crewchief on the right so Russ who lives down the street(two houses) he does alot of Biloxi schooners and makes his own decals I'll see if we can give that a shot.I changed my mind on the gear but have her taking off? Kevin
 
I am almost feeling like I need to finish some of these planes I started before moving on to a new build it's about ten kits two are 1/24s and two 1/32s

HMS Belfast about to transfer the Admiral to HMS Ocean during the Korean War.
Detail from bigger pic.
jim

And here's the hull skeleton after another evening's work. The kit is designed with pretty tight fit tolerances, as evidenced by my experience with the previously-mentioned misaligned false keel component, which was by only off by about 0.5 mm. Before gluing in bulkheads willy-nilly, I decided to check whether the misaligned part would really affect the positioning of the last bulkhead (#24). It did, so I had to remove a little sliver of wood with a chisel to get the bulkhead to slot in correctly. The end of the false keel itself will be covered over by additional parts later. After correcting that bit, I glued in the bulkheads. The parts have their numbers laser-etched on them, so I removed the entire set from their plywood sheet and prepped them all, so that I could do the gluing of the whole set at one go. Laser-etched tick-marks on the outer edges of mated parts allow for precise alignment. The false deck is only dry-fitted at this point.

As Chuck S. will likely attest, this is essentially a card model done in plywood. The construction method is the same as seen in many full-hull card designs.
 
Cheers!

A nice easy build of the first one available for Kitty Hawk USA to use as a display model.
My bulletproof shipping to the distributor almost worked perfectly. 
It only lost a tailpipe and it’s pitot tube, both of which were quickly reattached

I’m a sucker for T-28s.
The white B was the first built in the USA
The SEA AT-28D-5 is a heavily kibashed B
The T-28C was a pre production kit built as the KH display model
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The night stalker as the only one I had freedom on. The other two were built for others and they had to be built exactly as shown, including the lemon flippin’ yellow. 
 
I’m looking to revisit the Zorro’s attack bird and perform a few updates like reducing the sheen on the figures. 
 
Plus a yellow trainer with me having some freedom to work is on my short list.  Commission builds are nice, but building to spec can be a real drag. 

Hi all this is my build of the ghost ship from the Pirates of the Caribbean the Flying Dutchman a bit of a fantasy build but looking forward to going a bit freestyle. I have just started cutting out the bulkheads with my new coping saw so will post some pics tomorrow. 
More to come 
Martyn

V. Main Deck Front Wall
 
Now is time to plank the front wall of the main deck with wallnut.
 
I trace lines so that the wall boards match the decks boards at the intersection. I cut the boards slightly longer than the wall I glue the planks I cut them and sand them to fit the exterior border of the wall Finishing I sand the surface with increasing grit from 500 to 2000, ending with a pass of steel wool 000 I apply sanding sealer ("Fondur" in French, from Libéron) and let it dry 2 hours I sand with 1000 grit wallpaper + 000 steel wool I apply three coats of clear satin varnish. Between each, let dry 4 hours and sand with 1000 grit wallpaper + 000 steel wool.
 

Well, here's the Villa all painted and assembled. The last wall had to be re-epoxied because the 1st attempt did not hold.  Now for some weathering, then create the scene. Having some  difficulty locating the building materials I want, most are out of stock at the moment, so progress will be a little slow.  
 

Hi all this is my build of the ghost ship from the Pirates of the Caribbean the Flying Dutchman a bit of a fantasy build but looking forward to going a bit freestyle. I have just started cutting out the bulkheads with my new coping saw so will post some pics tomorrow. 
More to come 
Martyn

Hi all this is my build of the ghost ship from the Pirates of the Caribbean the Flying Dutchman a bit of a fantasy build but looking forward to going a bit freestyle. I have just started cutting out the bulkheads with my new coping saw so will post some pics tomorrow. 
More to come 
Martyn

Hi all this is my build of the ghost ship from the Pirates of the Caribbean the Flying Dutchman a bit of a fantasy build but looking forward to going a bit freestyle. I have just started cutting out the bulkheads with my new coping saw so will post some pics tomorrow. 
More to come 
Martyn