Yambo

Hi my friends,
After a long period of silence I want to restart. I hope to be able to continue.
With a small accident while moving to my new address...

I have much the same as Gaetan suggests but I have to admit I bought the diamond plate to keep the water stones flat. I use it as first stage for everything now!

I have much the same as Gaetan suggests but I have to admit I bought the diamond plate to keep the water stones flat. I use it as first stage for everything now!

I have much the same as Gaetan suggests but I have to admit I bought the diamond plate to keep the water stones flat. I use it as first stage for everything now!

I have much the same as Gaetan suggests but I have to admit I bought the diamond plate to keep the water stones flat. I use it as first stage for everything now!

I have much the same as Gaetan suggests but I have to admit I bought the diamond plate to keep the water stones flat. I use it as first stage for everything now!

I have much the same as Gaetan suggests but I have to admit I bought the diamond plate to keep the water stones flat. I use it as first stage for everything now!

Your work never disappoints Karl. I wish you good luck that it all goes smoothly and I look forward to a beautiful build. 

Merhaba Aydın!
 
I've just found your build log (I've been away from the forum for a while) and you're doing great! I've only made 2 RC boats so I don't have that much experience but I made sure that all internal seams were watertight by using thickened epoxy fillets on the internal seams - along the keel line, the chines etc. I also coated the insides with unthickened epoxy and fibreglassed the outside of the hull - more epoxy. 
 
Both boats get a fair bit of use in the summer (I made them for my grandchildren) and both are bone dry inside. Looking at your pictures though I'm not sure how you'd go about filleting the seams, it all looks quite full inside that hull!
 
Anyway, good luck with the rest of the build. I'll keep watching.  

Merhaba Aydın!
 
I've just found your build log (I've been away from the forum for a while) and you're doing great! I've only made 2 RC boats so I don't have that much experience but I made sure that all internal seams were watertight by using thickened epoxy fillets on the internal seams - along the keel line, the chines etc. I also coated the insides with unthickened epoxy and fibreglassed the outside of the hull - more epoxy. 
 
Both boats get a fair bit of use in the summer (I made them for my grandchildren) and both are bone dry inside. Looking at your pictures though I'm not sure how you'd go about filleting the seams, it all looks quite full inside that hull!
 
Anyway, good luck with the rest of the build. I'll keep watching.  

Merhaba Aydın!
 
I've just found your build log (I've been away from the forum for a while) and you're doing great! I've only made 2 RC boats so I don't have that much experience but I made sure that all internal seams were watertight by using thickened epoxy fillets on the internal seams - along the keel line, the chines etc. I also coated the insides with unthickened epoxy and fibreglassed the outside of the hull - more epoxy. 
 
Both boats get a fair bit of use in the summer (I made them for my grandchildren) and both are bone dry inside. Looking at your pictures though I'm not sure how you'd go about filleting the seams, it all looks quite full inside that hull!
 
Anyway, good luck with the rest of the build. I'll keep watching.  

My first thoughts . . .
 
Good review, thank you.

Great start Grant!
 
My first and only RC model boat, built for my grandson is an Aeronaut 'Diva' (it was cheaper!  ). I covered the bottom of the hull with thin aircraft fibreglass and lined every seam inside with epoxy thickened with microballoons  - not the 5 minute epoxy - with a good fillet around where the prop shaft exits the hull. despite quite a few hours in our swimming pool it has stayed completely dry inside. 
 
Fibreglassing isn't difficult but when you get to it, allow the fibreglass to sit on the hull at room temperature for a day or so and don't use a brush to spread the epoxy, use a thin, preferably rubber spatula. A brush will possibly open up the weave. 
 
But carry on, I'll be watching.  

They look magnificent Ed!  Also congratulations on getting the book published!

They look magnificent Ed!  Also congratulations on getting the book published!

They look magnificent Ed!  Also congratulations on getting the book published!

Your work never disappoints Karl. I wish you good luck that it all goes smoothly and I look forward to a beautiful build. 

That is just flipping beautiful! Thank you Karl.

Your work never disappoints Karl. I wish you good luck that it all goes smoothly and I look forward to a beautiful build. 

Your work never disappoints Karl. I wish you good luck that it all goes smoothly and I look forward to a beautiful build. 

Since interest has been shown in this tool by many including myself, here goes a hopefully, full review.  I will preface this by saying that this tool is NOT for everyone.   To make it clear:  if you are expecting out-of-box performance from this, stop reading and go do something else.  I fear this is going to be rather long winded....
 
Background
My scroll saw skills leave a lot to be desired and for repetitive items like knees, beams and even cutting small pieces for carving is an issue.  So rather than stand in front of a scroll saw for hours and end up tossing 30-50% of the pieces into the scrap box, I thought about a laser cutter.  The so-called “hobby lasers” seem appealing.  Reasonably low power requirements, low costs, and relatively smaller size appeals to me.
 
Research
The caveats that I read about Laser Cutters and followed in the research are: 
Use a company in the country you are in or will provide support to you. Use a company that has been in business for more than a couple of years. I’ve looked at the imported China Lasers (~$500 US) but have found much wrong with them in the reviews.  Extra costs of dealing with an import agent to get the unit out of customs and shipped to you, generally mediocre quality in the assembly, and then there’s the normal software that comes with the these products.  Also dealing with a seller in China leaves you high and dry without support.   I discovered two being “used” here locally.  One is not working and hasn’t from the time he got it a few months ago.  He’s in the process of replacing the PC board to be compatible with better software and fixing some damaged items like a broken laser tube.  The other, I saw it work, and tried my hand but the software (MoshiDraw) is incredibly bad.  The owner was running it on an XP PC as it wouldn’t run consistently in Win7 even in compatibility mode. 
 
I looked at another higher priced unit (~$4000 US base price with accessories adding up rapidly).  The unit was high quality, made in the US with some Chinese parts including the main board.  It used  LaserDraw software and from what I saw, the performance was adequate.  But as I was unable to sit down and try the woods we use, I can’t give a full report on it.  The owners use basswood and thin veneers for creating dollhouses, model railway buildings, etc.  The output seemed of good quality but again, it was not the woods or sizes we use.   My observation is that this is basically a hobby machine upgraded to being a production type.
 
The one I’m testing is the Micro-Mark brand (~$2000 US).  It comes with a 30 day refund guarantee which, if I determine this isn’t what will work for me, I’ll return it.   I read their claims that this machine is built to their specifications (http://www.micromark.com/html_pages/misc/the-micro-mark-difference.pdf) .  I know that some of us (myself included) have issues with certain practices which I won’t go into.  I will say that I won’t buy ripped off equipment.  This unit doesn’t appear ripped off but an upgraded Chinese unit.
 
I did not consider anything more powerful than 40W.  Maybe I should have, but there's also a cost factor that goes with that.
 
Pre-Order
The unit uses CorelLaser as its cutting software using an industry standard HP Plotter Driver and also Corel Draw.  I downloaded the manual and documentation from MM.  I also ordered a copy of CorelDraw X6 from Amazon.   CorelLaser works only with CorelDraw above version 13 so I bought a shrink wrapped, new-in-the-box program for $150 US.  I would suggest you do your homework on this.  X7, the latest from Corel is a subscription based program.  In other words, you pay every month for it.  I prefer to have a CD in my drawer just in case….
 
I spent a week or so refreshing myself on CorelDraw as the last time I used it was Version 5… yeah… been a few years.
 
Unpacking and Set-Up
I received this is 3 boxes, well packed in foam.   Unpacking is pretty straight forward.  I would suggest that the air pump and water pump NOT be removed from their bubble wrap as there is nothing on these items to indicate what they are.  I wish that MM had put a photo or two in the instruction manual to identify parts.
 
One thing that is needed is a GFI socket.  I’m using  a GFI adapter in case I wish at some future date, to move the cutter to a different place.
 
Set-up is pretty straight forward following the manual.  The hardest part was figuring out the exhaust setup without cutting a hole in the wall of the house.  Also, do NOT secure the exhaust unit to the cutter with tape.  Use #10 X 3/4” self-tapping screws.  There’s  bit a misfit between these parts and the tape will not hold it securely in place.  
 
Here's photos of the unit and all the accessories...

 
Testing Started
I used the factory settings and followed the instructions in the manual for the recommended passes and power.  Not a happy camper using boxwood.  The little nameplate is 1/8” thick boxwood.  Took  9 passes to cut.  Lots of charring.
 

 
I discovered the mirrors were off.  MM instructions are vague in the extreme and need some serious re-writing to be useful.   I Googled and eventually found the information I needed here:  http://dck40.blogspot.com/
Using other web sources, I discovered that the lens in the cutting head was upside down…  WTF!!!! This really irritated me.
 
After  spending a day going back and forth between all three mirrors and adjusting them, and then resetting the focus for the wood, here’s the next round.
 

 
I’m continuing to test and massage things.  This will take time.   I’m able to cut 3/16” boxwwod which requires multiple passes but as yet, not I’ve not tried ¼”  boxwood.
 
Overall Observations.
The learning curve on this machine is a vertical, straight line.  These machines are still in their infancy and not mature.  Documentation is extremely sparse although there are forums out there for laser cutters, getting to the information you need for a particular type or model is a bit overwhelming and I consider myself a knowledgeable Googler.
There is no guidance on power settings or cutting speed to cut various types and thicknesses of wood.  Serious experimentation is required.
 
This machine is finicky in that all mirrors have to be perfectly adjusted to make use of the power and they have to be kept clean.  It is big, and sometimes smelly.  It’s not a production machine and the bucket of cooling water will have to be watched.  Running at “high” power (no definition from anyone on this or on the max water temperature) will shorten the life of the laser bulb.  There is a focus issue and I believe it could cut with a thinner kerf.  I’m trying to talk with MM about this….
 
The nameplate, I couldn’t even begin to cut something that tiny on the scroll saw.  It’s now almost ready for carving.  I do need to tweak the drawing some more to get a bit better spacing.  The anchor stocks I’ve done,  would have taken maybe 30 minutes on the scroll saw.  Including drawing time, this took approximately 1 hour and no wasted/ruined pieces.  However, all 4 are exactly alike and the bolt holes are ready to be cleaned of char and the bolts installed.  No fiddling with the drill press, either.  I have about 8 other parts ready for cutting and will do them as I go.   The kerf size and charring are still an issue.
 
I’ll say it again, it’s not for everyone.  If you have the time and ability to Google and research and then  to fiddle with it and get it running correctly and then to keep it running, it might be ok for you.  The manuals are skimpy at best and a bit of creative Googling will need to be done to help sort things out.  There’s still settings in CorelLaser that I have no idea what they do.  There is an alternative to CorelLaser called LaserCut 5.3.  I haven’t tried it yet and the documentation on-line seems rather sparse from what I’ve seen.
 
Thicknesses of 3/16” and up are tricky to work with.  There’s no tables or inputs from MM on this and the web is all over the place on using these “hobby” cutters.  However, most folks who have reviewed similar machines are using basswood and thin woods.  Doll houses and RR accessories seem to be the major uses along with etching for various things like signs, pendants, etc.   I need to have a conversation with MM on the lens… I think it needs to be higher quality and damn it... there’s no excuse to have it installed upside down. 
 
Lastly, tech support.  I emailed them late on a Sunday night about some issues.  I'm still waiting for answer after 3 days… 
Since we’re talking tech support, it’s worthwhile to note that tech support hours are very limited… Monday through Friday, from 1:00 pm to 5:00 pm, EDT.
 
I asked tech support before I ordered about using an extender cable and the answer was a simple: not recommended.  The unit comes with a 9 foot USB cable so I had to seriously rearrange my workshop to get it closer to the computer.   I’m testing a USB powered extender cable so I don’t have cabling running across the floor where it can be stepped on.   Jury is out on this.
 
The short answer for all this is: I wouldn’t recommend it unless you are tech savvy, not just with computers but also can tolerate a large learning curve.  The quality of the cuts could be a lot better.  Overall, it might better that if this tool is something you have to have then spend about double the cash and get a higher powered, non-China built laser cutter with some tech support.  The BossLaser that Chuck uses runs about $5000 and has the higher power to cut thicker woods and is, I believe, also suitable as a production machine.
 
I'll continue to test, adjust, fiddle, and tweak for now... 

Thanks  all for the likes and inquiry's
I have been looking after some domestic issues related to cleaning up almost 20 years worth of collecting junk around the yard (6 trailer loads) in anticipation of moving to the coast in the near future, The next time Maria sees open water it will be somewhere between the Mainland and Vancouver Island. I have kept her eyes hidden from the early break up of the lake this year, knowing that bigger water beckons.
 
My next shop will be very tidy and tools will all have their own special places, no clutter will be allowed, each project will have proper storage of parts and materials as they progress!
 
I am a reformed Hoarder, My time will be better spent building models and not sorting and organizing and looking for something that I collected 20 or 30 years ago, for instance I really only need about twenty feet of very fine spring wire not 3 miles, All the containers of little pieces of cut wood continue to grow with no signs of them getting used (it is easier to cut new for what I need) I just need to learn to not cut so many extra bits that then get stacked.
 
I will be taking good planks and billets of special hardwood to the new shop, plus a smaller assortment of metal bar and sheet stock, all the tiny off cuts will not be traveling west.
 
It is a serious learning curve, but I am a determined student, I am going to live the next 30 years clutter free which is really exciting.
 
Michael 

There's a simple answer Piet but it's not a simple matter. The simple answer? You can put a boat on a ship but you can't put a ship on a boat, or one man can make a boat but one man can't make a ship. It might take many men to make a boat but it'll always take a lot of men to make a ship. A friend once answered the same question like this:
 
"A schooner is not a ship and yet it can have a cargo hold or several cargo holds and will probably carry one or more boats. A Brig or a Barque can be bigger than a ship but they aren't ships themselves. Same thing for Brigantines and Barquentines. The term Ship is a sailing term for a square rigged vessel that has a "course" sail on it's mizzen mast. The "course" is the lowest and largest square sail on the mast. Brigs and Barques do not have mizzen courses.
 
A modern ship would be identified by it purpose. A 250' commercial vessel is a ship. A 450' private vessel not doing work is a yacht. A tug boat is a boat but it can exceed 150 gross tons. Tonnage for ships is rated by cargo capacity not gross weight."
 
Then you can have barges and rafts - a car ferry might be a raft - and a barge, like a Thames barge might be a ketch or a sloop. Others may expand on this subject some more but be pleased, I think you've opened a can of worms.    

William L. Crothers
I am very sorry to report that Bill Crothers passed away on Friday, May 1.  He was in his 103rd year.  Bill’s research and writings on American clippers and packets, in particular his intensive exploration of the structures of these ships, place him at the forefront of contributors to our knowledge of these subjects.  I am personally indebted to him, for without his work there would be no framed Young America model, nor perhaps more excellent examples to follow.  It was my special privilege to have briefly known Bill and to have his valuable comments on my work.  I will always value the interest he showed in the model, no less than the writings that made it possible.
 
Ed

That first thin coat of primer is a right pain in the butt isn't it vaddoc! I always seem to have the same problem - hull looks lovely, get some primer on and then get sanding again. At least it shows you where the work is needed.