vaddoc

In this case I would think CA glue, which has actually been used previously in this model and can be removed with debonder. PVA glue might work as well. I wonder if varnish could be an option. Also, in the past I have used women's hair spray to preserve dried flowers, it works very well, it strengthen them and prevents the fragile leaves from falling apart-(is it a form of lacquer?). Maybe it would work.

I hope all will settle soon Hakan! If they did as good a job as you do with your boat, you ll be back to normal in no time at all. 
I like very much your generous rabet at the horn timbers, very nice. I cannot follow it further down the hull though.

I hope all will settle soon Hakan! If they did as good a job as you do with your boat, you ll be back to normal in no time at all. 
I like very much your generous rabet at the horn timbers, very nice. I cannot follow it further down the hull though.

Hakan, glad to see you back in the workshop even if it is only an interlude between the daily IV treatments.  Noting Vaddoc’s comment I think it unlikely that the average medic would be as pedantic about their craft as the average msw builder.
 
Your framing and keel are looking very good. Sometimes slow and sure is the best strategy for both model boats and convalescing builders.

I think this is why Highfield levers were invented

Hi @USNCHief013107
These are the clips, they come in various sizes.
You can never have enough clamps!
 
Rapesco 1492 19 mm Foldback Clips, Assorted Bright Colours, Pack of 80 : Amazon.co.uk: Stationery & Office Supplies

I think this is why Highfield levers were invented

I think this is why Highfield levers were invented

Hi @USNCHief013107
These are the clips, they come in various sizes.
You can never have enough clamps!
 
Rapesco 1492 19 mm Foldback Clips, Assorted Bright Colours, Pack of 80 : Amazon.co.uk: Stationery & Office Supplies

I do not use glue for the planks Allan, I initially screw the planks on the frames with 1 mm screws and then replace the screws with treenails (dipped in PVA). These clamps will not dent the wood, this is 2 mm beech which is very hard but even with the softer maple, denting has never been an issue. 

I have been continuously spilling and planking for the last 12 months, maybe the following thread might be of help.
 

Hi @USNCHief013107
These are the clips, they come in various sizes.
You can never have enough clamps!
 
Rapesco 1492 19 mm Foldback Clips, Assorted Bright Colours, Pack of 80 : Amazon.co.uk: Stationery & Office Supplies

Hi @USNCHief013107
These are the clips, they come in various sizes.
You can never have enough clamps!
 
Rapesco 1492 19 mm Foldback Clips, Assorted Bright Colours, Pack of 80 : Amazon.co.uk: Stationery & Office Supplies

May thanks to all for your like and comments.
I have corresponded with @Jaager and I thought it would be best to continue our discussion here.
 
1-  Instead of directly using a compass or mechanical  proportional dividers directly on the mold (or for POF frame)  edge, use a tick strip so that the actual distance is part of the measurement?
Indeed, this can be done and actually I did use card strips on this boat. Anything to get the job done.
2 - One edge of the plank (the outboard edge) is always dead straight.  The spilling always done on the edge meeting the previous plank?
Not necessarily. Maybe some planks in large ships but never in boats in my experience. The upper edge of the garboard only is indeed supposed to be straight but it does not really need to. However, planning of the planking is dealt with in depth on the launch log!
3 - Divide the area to be planked into two or three zones ( more for a larger vessel).  A thin batten that defines an idea plank run at intermediate positions?
Absolutely. This boat was divided in three zones.
4 - the subdivisions would be between the battens?  
Indeed, battens were used to define the zones to ensure fairness of the curves.
5 - A planking fan could be used instead of mechanical dividers?
Ordinarily yes but this boat is actually a very difficult one to plank, the fan cannot really be used.
6 -  The garboard is the first, but instead of one, you make two identical planks - P & S at the same time?
7 -  Each  subsequent strake also be made as duplicates with the fine tuning  done on the individuals on either side? Port and starboard being planked at the same time in parallel?
8 - The battens would only be needed on one side.  I see a madness producer in trying to get symmetry. If the molds are not near identical on each side, then they need to be done over?
6, 7, 8 Indeed, the two sides should theoretically be identical. In my experience they never are. They can be quite close but in this boat I cut a few corners and each plank is individual. But if someone has such a steady hand to make each frame and each pair of planks completely symmetrical, the work would be cut in half.
9 - A jig could be used to locate the mold positions on the plank stock?
Sure but it is easy to mark the positions on the card template
10 -  Once a plank has been fixed, the open are is measured with a new tick stick and a new (one less) interval be measured?  If there is one place where error creep is a certainty, it is with planking.  If a gap needs 12 planks to close it, dividing the whole space into 12 segments at the beginning and trying to use them for every plank will not turn out like you expect, hope  usually?   A new subdivision measurement after each strake will mitigate error creep?
Yes, up to a point. Some builders do not like to mark the plank positions, they just do as you suggest and plank away without fully marking each plank beforehand. I think this needs huge experience and an ability to imagine the planks just looking at the frames. I like to mark the run of each plank, as I would like it to go, but I am not fixated on my planning. Some time a plank wants to lie a bit higher or lower than my marking, or to be a bit wider or more narrow-that's fine by me! I also trim or shim the frames if the plank suggests it is needed.
 
This is how the boat looks now-it's mothballed until I finish planking the yawl

Dear all
 
As I am currently immersed in planking, I thought it might be useful to share my way of spilling planks.
In my fishing boat log I have presented in detail the way the plank run can be defined but it is a long and difficult read. Showing how to spill planks is much easier and perhaps will help some builders. 
 
So lets spill a plank in the fishing boat. T he positions of all planks have been marked on the port side and these positions will need to be transferred over to the starboard side as we go along. The planks should be twins but in reality they never are, at least in my boats so every plank needs to be individually spilled. 
 
A good compass is needed, this is the one I use
 

The plank we will be making will be a starboard plank, its sister plank on the port side is already installed. A picture is a thousand words: This is the port plank steamed in place and the markings for all the rest of the planks are visible. We need to make this plank for the other side.

Now, every new plank will have two edges. The bottom one that meets the previous plank, and this needs to be shaped so it fits well, and the upper free edge that we will define ourselves based on our markings and planning of the planks but needs to be as fair as possible.
 
I use either very stiff card or thick cardboard to make templates of the bottom edge. I cut pieces as long as possible, hold them close to the edge of the previous plank and use a compass to mark the pattern. I run the compass along the piece of cardboard with the needle on the edge of the previous plank and the pencil tip on the card. Then I cut on the line with a very sharp knife and repeat on the next segment. I glue and connect the pieces into a long continuous card pattern. This is how it should look.

This is 1:10 scale and this plank is 60 cm long. The card needs to lie comfortably without absolutely any edge bend. Even a tiny strain on the card will produce huge gaps on the other end of the plank and wood will not tolerate edge bending (It will, but only a little). This is the most crucial step, if there is any doubt the template must be readjusted. This particular template was the third one. Do not make the card pieces too wide because the angles will change and you ll be getting constantly erratic results.
 
Then, mark the positions of the frames on the card pattern.

Then, very carefully, making sure there is no edge bend at all, secure the card pattern on the wood sheet.

Run a pencil (I use 0.3 mm mechanical one) along the edge and also mark the positions of the frames. This is the result

This is the bottom edge of our plank and should fit closely to the previous plank. We need now to define the upper edge so we need the thickness of the plank at the various frames. On the port side, this thicknesses are already marked. To make sure that the two sides are as similar as possible, I ve been marking the starboard side measuring from the sheer. 




So the upper edge of our plank is marked in all frames.

Now, these widths need to be transferred to the plank, again using the compass. The width at the stem will be defined using the contralateral plank end.



All sites marked.


These points need to be connected but with a fair line. To do this we must use a baten, arranging it so that it is close to all the points.



Now this line, which is the upper edge of the plank, does not pass through all the points but it is ok. Actually, if we put the contralateral plank on the pattern, the widths are exactly the same! 

On this boat I use a very sharp knife to cut the plank with multiple passes, breaking off a segment of the blade every couple of passes. After careful cutting to the lines, the plank is produced.


Placing the plank on the boat, it does not fit well.


No need to panic, it just needs a bit of micro adjustement. We need to find the high spots and carefully sand them so the gaps will start closing. These are the high spots in this case.


After sanding and with a bit of edge bending, the plank seems to fit fine now.


These micro-adjustements and a bit of edge bevelling can continue until the fit is very close but for this boat this is enough, with some filler it will be fine. I also lightly sand the upper edge to smooth out the peaks and make fitting the next plank easier.
 
Both planks steamed in place.

And that's it! Now repeat the process 30 odd times and planking is done. 
 
Vaddoc

I have been continuously spilling and planking for the last 12 months, maybe the following thread might be of help.
 

I do not use glue for the planks Allan, I initially screw the planks on the frames with 1 mm screws and then replace the screws with treenails (dipped in PVA). These clamps will not dent the wood, this is 2 mm beech which is very hard but even with the softer maple, denting has never been an issue. 

I have been continuously spilling and planking for the last 12 months, maybe the following thread might be of help.
 

Another quick update
 
I started steaming and installing the ribs. As expected, beech responded wonderfully to wet heat becoming as pliable as boiled spaghetti. My steam box is working great and in no time I had bent half of the ribs.



I made a simple spacer to make sure the rib is placed at equal distances from the frames


Then I started screwing the ribs to the planks. 


Regards
Vaddoc

Hi @Gregory
I do not come across any specific information, but these are my thoughts:
Probably transoms were made from a few pieces, edge to edge like the planking but thicker. It is much easier to find very wide short segments so maybe it would only take 3 pieces to make a Transom. Most of the transom is well above the water line so no caulking would be needed. I do not think any particular framing would be needed as usually there would be a sternpost or at least a knee, and also the planking, to keep the transom securely in place. In the boat I am building, each transom piece would be nailed to three planks on each side.
In more modern larger vessels, on top of the sternpost there are extra pieces of timber as the photo bellow shows. This would be easy enough to use also for boats and would result to a very strong transom. However in "The boats of men-of-war" by May, for a 22 ft long boat it states:
Transom: Broad or moulded at the upper part 3ft 9 in, thick or sided 3 inch, knees sided 2 3/4 in. 
No mention of framing.

Very interesting boat GL and very nicely done so far! It was a pleasure to catch up. Looking forward to the rest of the journey, it will be interesting to see how the rigging will be laid out
 
Vaddoc

Very interesting boat GL and very nicely done so far! It was a pleasure to catch up. Looking forward to the rest of the journey, it will be interesting to see how the rigging will be laid out
 
Vaddoc

Thank you Pat, and for all those who added a like I really appreciate it. Well the little critter look a bit like Spiny Norman, with apologies to the Dinsdale Brothers and Monty Python.
It took most of the day to get things sorted ( but you do what you have to do) and no the round supports are not cams I only thought about that as I started screwing them to the board.

 
I did manage to snap one early this morning, and I attribute it to by placement technique.
 

 

 
It feel very good to get to this point. I will let it dry thoroughly before marking off the sheer line and also the rest of the shaping of the stem and stern.
Then the real fun begins gluing it all together.
 
Michael

6. Gunter
The clipper d'Argenteuil is rigged with a Houari sail, so the gaff is very steep. I believe the correct English term is 'gunter'.
The gunter is also lifted along the mast rail. The gooseneck of the gunter fits in a special slug on top of the sail slugs. Making this slug correctly and in detail is a bit beyond my metal skills. I still managed to make something that didn't differ noticeably from what it should be.
 

 

 

 
To make the gooseneck I use some telescopic brass tubes that I solder together.
 

I then file them conically or the lathe.
There is a slit at the top and bottom. Sawing the slot.
 

Everything cleaned up.
All the parts of the gunter goose neck.
Goose neck on the gunter.
When the gunter is raised on the mast, it is held upright by a metal violin block that runs along a guide rope.
The hoisted gunter.

 
Thank you very much for reading this log and for your likes and for your constructive comments.
 
Till soon!

The part of the shrouds that goes around the masthead is served.
 

 

 
I make a small spacer gadget to help me to keep the space between the dead eyes equal. Two small nails in the top dead eye avoids it twisting.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Now the lanyards go through the dead eyes

 
and that is the situation as it is now.

 
Thank you very much for reading this log and for your likes and for your constructive comments.
 
Till soon!