puckotred

A new build so I have something to do while waiting for Vasa parts.
 
I ordered this from Maristella and apart from the excellent service Mr. Pavlovich offers I believe that they offer the best prices in Europe. 
My only regret is that I did not order one of Marisstellas own kits instead. But then again I have a reason saving up money for that in the future.
 
The Xebec is the smallest shipmodel I have had so far. But the rigging is something that I for some reason wanted to try out. And it will be like a practice before I go on with my Pinco Genovese that is more like a semi scratch build from Euromodel Como.
 
Here's the pics:

 
Stuff:
They updated the older kit from 1027 to 1427.

 
 
There are 4 sheets of plans. 3 and 4 are of the updates.

 
 
Instructions in Italian, but there is a paper included with the English translation.

 
Bits and pieces:

 
More:

 
Ships boat:

 
Wood, Looks like good quality.

 
And we're underway!!!

 
 

Hello Morgan thanks for dropping by.
 
I would not start building the hull until issue 24. That would be shipment number 7. Then the main hull would be complete. even better would be to wait until issue 40, shipment 11. Then you'll have the false deck as well. But I understand that's unrealistic.  
Just try and wait as long as you can. 
 
(you can always PM me if you want to use Swedish)
 

A new build so I have something to do while waiting for Vasa parts.
 
I ordered this from Maristella and apart from the excellent service Mr. Pavlovich offers I believe that they offer the best prices in Europe. 
My only regret is that I did not order one of Marisstellas own kits instead. But then again I have a reason saving up money for that in the future.
 
The Xebec is the smallest shipmodel I have had so far. But the rigging is something that I for some reason wanted to try out. And it will be like a practice before I go on with my Pinco Genovese that is more like a semi scratch build from Euromodel Como.
 
Here's the pics:

 
Stuff:
They updated the older kit from 1027 to 1427.

 
 
There are 4 sheets of plans. 3 and 4 are of the updates.

 
 
Instructions in Italian, but there is a paper included with the English translation.

 
Bits and pieces:

 
More:

 
Ships boat:

 
Wood, Looks like good quality.

 
And we're underway!!!

 
 

Sometimes I feel like I need a new build like I need a hole in the head. Other times it's nice to walk away from one build and get some distraction with another. Trajta is my first Marisstella kit and I have their Cog on the shelf. I'm not one to take lots of pix of the box and contents, actually the Marisstella boxes are blue on the outside and do not show a pic of the boat. Here's one (a pic of a pic) and you can go to the Maristella site to see more about this boat. Lot's of good pix and a very good write up on the history.
 

 
As I alluded to, this is my 2nd build in progress at the moment. I am making a concerted effort to complete Niagara - kind of a personal commitment - so Trajta will be playing second fiddle for a while. If you would like to follow along, please consider that and have patience.
 
The keel has been assembled and the next step will be the bulkheads. As there is a pretty big open hold on this boat, a few of the bulkhead pieces need some dressing up as they will be visible. I've also made a feeble attempt at a build board - recommended in the instructions. I'm not crazy about that, but I'll play along for now. I think the Amati stand would probably be sufficient.
 

 

 
Speaking of instructions, the English version has just been revised. Don Robinson has played a big part there so he deserves a lot of credit as does Zoran from Marisstella for continuing to improve on his product.
 
Thanks for reading and I hope you'll stay along for the ride.
 
 
 

A new build so I have something to do while waiting for Vasa parts.
 
I ordered this from Maristella and apart from the excellent service Mr. Pavlovich offers I believe that they offer the best prices in Europe. 
My only regret is that I did not order one of Marisstellas own kits instead. But then again I have a reason saving up money for that in the future.
 
The Xebec is the smallest shipmodel I have had so far. But the rigging is something that I for some reason wanted to try out. And it will be like a practice before I go on with my Pinco Genovese that is more like a semi scratch build from Euromodel Como.
 
Here's the pics:

 
Stuff:
They updated the older kit from 1027 to 1427.

 
 
There are 4 sheets of plans. 3 and 4 are of the updates.

 
 
Instructions in Italian, but there is a paper included with the English translation.

 
Bits and pieces:

 
More:

 
Ships boat:

 
Wood, Looks like good quality.

 
And we're underway!!!

 
 

Here is my Log for my Amerigo Vespucci - So far I have the super structure done and I'm ready to finish putting the decks on, and to fill in time as I wait for glue to dry, I am starting to build the Life Boats - this is quite small and challenging but fun to do - there are 11 of these small boats so there is lots to do . I have one small issue with the decks - The lower deck is a different shade than the 2 upper decks, as you can see in the photo - does anyone have any ideas as to how how I can get both decks the same shade - I dont want too use a dark stain as I like the look of a lighter  color on this ship !
 

Hi Mates,
Well sails are all done. Now for attaching them to the yards, (adding all needed blocks etc.)

 
Here comes more learning. How to actually attach them. Anderson has this. I also looked at the 1/10th and each rope is separate and unto themselves with each having separate knots.
 

 
Then there is the Tack knot.

 
 
I did find this online
 

 
Along with this link
 
http://www.survivalworld.com/knots/manrope-knot.html#.WWJu_tPyuV4
 
That’s about it for now – glad that I went for the sails – very satisfied (well they are not installed ha ha)
 
Cheers,

Hello Morgan thanks for dropping by.
 
I would not start building the hull until issue 24. That would be shipment number 7. Then the main hull would be complete. even better would be to wait until issue 40, shipment 11. Then you'll have the false deck as well. But I understand that's unrealistic.  
Just try and wait as long as you can. 
 
(you can always PM me if you want to use Swedish)
 

hi Michael and Peter, Thanks for the input.
 
 
Here is the problem:
The line drawn is the curve that the planks should follow.
 

 
 
And this happens when I try to bend the thin strips "upwards"

 
 
With the thicker planks (2mm) this was no problem since I could use the heatbender across the plank and get that minimal curve. But not on the 0,5mm. 

Thanks Michael!
The photo will be helpful.
Now my main problem is that curve of the planks towards the aft of the hull. DeAgostinis second planking wood is 0,5X5mm and impossible to bend upwards without twisting. A real headscratcher for me now...
 
 

First of, great build and great log
 
I have been tempted to build the Vasa since I was about teen years old and visited the museum and saw the 1:10 model. However I have more or less no experience building wooden ships so I have never dared to try any Vasa kit. But about a month ago I found out about the deagostini kit and the instructions seems very clear. Even if I hate to wait for stuff the subscription model allows me to cancel the subscription if I feel like the model is too hard. So I have now subscribed and I’m waiting for my first delivery (according to Edition Atlas it should have arrived yesterday but still no luck).
 
After following your log I understand that it’s a good idea to wait to start the build until you have received a couple of shipments. How long do you recomend me to wait? Keep in mind that I’m really eager to start the build
 
/Morgan

Today I gave myself a big list of things to do including dentist, grocery shopping, 5 acres of grass to cut then finish with completing and installing the rudder. If successful I promised myself a bbq steak and a trip to the liqueur cabinet( trying to follow EJ's footsteps) Well steak is still the fridge yet but there have been a couple of trips to the infamous cabinet, all jobs completed!!!!! 
 I realise there is a little overkill with pictures on this post, I feel there is never too many pictures when it comes to the rigging aspect of a build so please bear with me.
 


 
 This what the task was for today. Top picture showing the rudder and the next picture showing the rigging for the tiller.

Pieces for the rudder, straps made from 3 mm copper strip
 

 
Still needs painting, this is showing the bottom bracket and bar mounted on hull the top bracket and bar is then mounted on the rudder. Receiving bracket is then mounted on hull at top and on rudder at the bottom. A much easier process, I love it!!
 
 The tiller being rigged with 4 mm double blocks. Seizing is done using Gutermann thread readily available, wide assortment of colours and measures approximately .18 mm
 
 
Blocks and rope for rudder, 4mm blocks .5 mm rope and eyebolts all kit supplied, used approx 50 mm of rope for each. It is the same set up for the tiller with the exception of the eyebolt, a hook is used instead.
 


 
Showing rigging of the tiller, the use of hooks helps so much. Here I am showing running the rope through the blocks before attaching the hook to eyebolt in bulwark.
 

 

 
I will adjust that block after I'm done here. The plans do not show any sort of belaying point so I am assuming  coils of rope will be needed below the tiller later on. I have read the rope was wrapped around the tiller first to allow the helmsman to make adjustments??????
 

 
This is what the ship's cat might see. 
 
You all Take Care,  
Thanks for stopping in. 
 
 
 

hi Michael and Peter, Thanks for the input.
 
 
Here is the problem:
The line drawn is the curve that the planks should follow.
 

 
 
And this happens when I try to bend the thin strips "upwards"

 
 
With the thicker planks (2mm) this was no problem since I could use the heatbender across the plank and get that minimal curve. But not on the 0,5mm. 

Hi Jan, Well, I don't know. But it might be the only way. I don't have any clamps that's big enough to go over the hull and if I use the planking screws the hull will be perforated. 
maybe just use CA to pin them down?
Or ease up the curve a little and hope that it won't show after the hulls painted. 
But the curve has to line up with the upper 7 planks aft wards that should be klinker laid.
 

 
 
 
 

Hello Peter
I do not know when the wales will come. You only know from month to month what is to be done. No indication on what is to come...
 
I have never thought about clamping them together! Could be a good idea! I'll try that tonight. 

I see,
Those are very thin planks.
Could the wales be of help as guidance if you attach them first?
-Or could it be possible to clamp 3-4 planks together in some kind of jig and steam bend them that way?
 
/Peter

hi Michael and Peter, Thanks for the input.
 
 
Here is the problem:
The line drawn is the curve that the planks should follow.
 

 
 
And this happens when I try to bend the thin strips "upwards"

 
 
With the thicker planks (2mm) this was no problem since I could use the heatbender across the plank and get that minimal curve. But not on the 0,5mm. 

Hi Jan, Well, I don't know. But it might be the only way. I don't have any clamps that's big enough to go over the hull and if I use the planking screws the hull will be perforated. 
maybe just use CA to pin them down?
Or ease up the curve a little and hope that it won't show after the hulls painted. 
But the curve has to line up with the upper 7 planks aft wards that should be klinker laid.
 

 
 
 
 

Thanks to all for stopping in, for your comments and for all the likes. Got a little more done in the last two days mainly the ship's stove is now installed complete with a stockpile of firewood and an axe. The pump was also made and installed, this is a little kit included with the package, I think it looks pretty good. It came with 3 mm copper strapping for the bands, however, I replaced that with some card stock
 

 
 Hope you enjoy, have a good evening

The arching planks towards the stern overhang looks a bit thick.
I would probably remove these and just use the second layer planking.
Remember, the decoration here goes on the outboard side of the planking without it being obvious from a distance that this is the case.
This is what I did (sorry, not very sharp):

Real ship:

Cheers,
Peter

With regards to bending the planking sideways:
As you can see on my picture above, it is possible to run the planks in such a way that you do not need to bend the planks much at all at the stern.
The real area to keep an eye on is the bow. Quite a bit of bending is required here. In fact if were to do this again, for the bow, I would cut curved planks..
It's hard to get a picture from the museum that does not exhibit fish-eye effects. (for obvious reasons you cannot take a picture from a distance)
So here's an older picture:

 
This is what I did for plank run at the stern:

 
-Peter

Thanks Michael!
The photo will be helpful.
Now my main problem is that curve of the planks towards the aft of the hull. DeAgostinis second planking wood is 0,5X5mm and impossible to bend upwards without twisting. A real headscratcher for me now...
 
 

Hi Everybody,
The special blocks have been in manufacturing!

Hi Mates,
 
Minor update–working on finishing up the first sail (lower main)
 
Then noticed (first pic of 1/10th) that a shoe block is used where I had already laced two deadeyes with a single block in-between.
PS: I know that you know where that is, just having fun adding red circles here and there……
 
Looked at Syren, and elsewhere could not find this type of block – so trying to make some. Prob. too much time spent here – may just use the single block instead. A work in progress ----======================
PS2: Joachim thanks for the post. I remember that extra extension. I saw it when I bought the lathe, but passed on it. I looked again at Proxxon and elsewhere no longer seems to be available (even eBay did not have one)
 
Cheers,