Dziadeczek

This is all fine what he is doing, but gun ports which are towards the stern and, to some degree the bow, are progressively les and less square, and become rhombs (parallelograms with other than right angles) because their vertical lines remain true vertical and the horizontal lines follow the decks. Hence, his handy plastic square template cannot be used there, I'am afraid. Unless he has different templates for those ports, each with different shapes...

Rather than trying to give detailed explanations, I recommend you read an excellent book (brochure) "Planking the build up ship models" by the late Jim Roberts, or articles on planking that you'll find here, in the "links" part of this forum.

I built this kit many years ago. But then the kit had a plastic figurehead and some plastic sheet transfer for this ornamental frieze, scrollwork and plastic quarter galleries figures. The kit produces a nice looking model though.

No problem indeed, but allow them long(er) time to process your order. Also, as a rule, they don't speak English (or don't want to) and this, and other reasons, slow down delivery time to overseas, non- French speaking customers.

This shows placements of shrouds at the masthead.

Perhaps a harder wood species, like cherry or pear, would be less susceptible to shrinking, than bass. Also, it is better to do most bending of a presoaked plank off the model, say with a hot soldering iron with an appropriate head, and glue the plank to the hull when it is 'almost' dry. That way the internal forces of the wood are minimal. I planked a model with cherry several years ago and today it still looks like I did it yesterday. No cracks and shrinking. By the way, it was a single planked hull.

I have built a similar version of the workbench suggested by a magazine "The Family Handyman" many years ago. To this day it serves me well. It is fairly simple to build, everything you can get from places like Home Depot, it has useful features like drawers, good lighting and a simple dust collection to be used with a shop vac. Here is a pic from that magazine, showing you the overall view. If you are interested in more detail, give me your private email address and I will send you the remaining pages of that article. Regards, Thomas

Use water and soap (liquid soap works the best) and vigorously lather the brush in it. If the brushes are dry and stiff, use mineral spirits (paint thinner) and soak them in it for a day or so.

Hi Mike K, I think, your better bet would be with the monograph on Le Fleuron by G. Delacroix rather than the 4 volumes on the 74 gun ship by J. Boudriot. Different ships, rates and a bit different times (besides one volume would cost you much less than four of them). I don't own this monograph http://ancre.fr/en/monographies-en/55-monographie-du-fleuron-vaisseau-de-64-canons-1729.html?search_query=Le+Fleuron&results=2#/langue-anglais but I do have those 4 volumes on the 74 gun ship (in fact I am in the midst of building the 1:48 model based on the works of Boudriot) and I have to tell you that this type of project is strictly for the most experienced modelers, with several other models behind their belt, so to speak. The build is extremely complex and "complicated", you have to have many different power tools, good quality materials and an appropriate space (workshop) for your endeavour. You need to be able to read some very complicated plans and perspective drawings. And be prepared to spend several years of intensive work to complete your model, if you want to build it faithfully to the plans. The French are famous for complicating the matters, they used elaborate wood joints, scarphs, profuse decorations... Ouchhhh... I am sweating bullets already with my 74! And Le Fleuron seems to be even more complicated!!! Even more importantly, you have to have a very patient and understanding wife, who will not mind you spending more time with your model than with her! I have in excess of 300 photographs from various stages of construction of this awesome model (LF) in 1:64 scale, by one of the Japanese modelers - if you decide for sure you want to tackle this project, I could send them to you (CD), that is, if you want them, off course. I would need at least your home email address for that, however. Send me a private message, if you are interested, OK? I attach below one of the pics of this model. The upper section (above the main wale) can be raised with a push of the red button, to visualize the interior of the hull. Awesome!!! As far as the French "Ancre", I have ordered a few things from them in the past. They are a reputable company, but since Mr. Berti now seems to be the only person taking the orders (J. Boudriot is deceased now), it sometimes takes a while to actually receive your books (depending where you live). One therefore has to be patient. Happy modeling!

Great progress, Bill!! Congratulations! I am glad you returned to your model, after all these years. Keeping my fingers crossed for you. Thomas from Glendale, California

Did you mean SHROUDS? I always install mine directly on the model.

Butapren glue is an equivalent to the ordinary contact cement available in the US. It is a derivative of chloroprene and natural rubber, used primarily in the shoe industry, hence the first part of its name - "but" (a shoe in Polish). I am not a chemist, so I cannot authoritatively state its exact similarities or differences. Hope this helps.

Jason, Take a look at the book, "The Anatomy of Nelson's Ships" by N. Longridge, page 55. Besides, this particular issue was discussed long time ago on the, now practically defunct forum, Ships in Scale.

In English ships of war, the hull was coppered from the waterline down to the keel and from the stern towards the bow. In all other ships coppering was done also from the stern to the bow, but, interestingly, from the keel upwards, to the waterline. Don't ask me, why.

Mike, The fewer strands are in your rope, the thinner the rope is. For instance, two stranded rope is slightly thinner then three stranded one, which in turn is slightly thinner than four stranded rope. Of course, some of the bigger (thicker ) ropes on real ships were four stranded ropes like, like anchor ropes, some stays, etc. If you can replace inner core in your model rope from another strand (thread) to a copper wire (some ropewalks let you do it), you can later on manuallly form your rope to look more "authentic" looking, let's say a sagging, loose piece rather than laying stiff and straight on a model, as miniature ropes tend to do. Also, whether right hand twist or left hand twist, depends on what type of rope you intend it to represent. Some types of ropes were right handed and other left handed on real ships. If you care to do it more authentically looking, pay attention! If not, ignore it and make all of them the same. It is your model! Have fun!

Heller has a nice kit with it.

Get yourself a book "The Ships of Christopher Columbus" by Xavier Pastor. It is from the series "Anatomy of the Ship".

Why don't you try to do, what I suggested in here earlier on: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/11750-new-memberwith-problems/ After marking the bearding line by joining the tips of all temporarily installed bulkheads (no glue yet), carefully cut off the lower section of your keel (made out of basswood in this kit) and replace it with the one you made from solid hardwood (remember to add a bit of wood to its thickness, allowing for the loss of basswood keel that you cut off, due to the kerf of your blade). Before joining (glueing) both pieces together, file off their edges - you'll end up with a nice rabbet after you join them. If you are careful enough, you can gradually change the angle while filing off the edges in various sections of your keel, thus making this rabbet better shaped for the lowest planks which you later on tuck in there. After glueing both pieces of your keel, secure them further with several thin pieces of wood (eg. treenails, or such) glued into predrilled holes through the lower keel and into your bass keel. This is exactly the way I did with my Rattlesnake (MS) model. I used a piece of cherry for my lower keel and planked the hull also with cherry planks. Looks much better than basswood, in my opinion.

I haven't done it, but perhaps it would be worthwhile trying it: It however produces round nail heads, not hexagonal.

You are right about that, Druxey. This indeed is a French 74 gun ship model. J. Boudriot in his "The 74 gun ship" vol. 1 writes:

Good idea! I will try it. Thanks!!!

I have a question. How do you cut these notches for deck beams into the deck clamps? I understand that doing it off the model would be much easier, but then, how do you determine their exact locations OFF the model? On the other hand, cutting them on the model would be exceedingly difficult due to immediate proximity of frames and external planking (not enough space to manouver cutting tools). Any help would be appreciated. Regards, Thomas

Here is an example, how to do it. I used miniature clothespins (from Michaels's or Hobby Lobby or similar place), or instead, you can use mini alligator clips from an electronic store, whatever is around you. After installing all ratlines, flip the card and mount it behind shrouds on the opposite side and start all over. Waxing the ratlines after installation is nearly impossible, so wax your line BEFORE. Have fun!

Here is an example, how to do it. I used miniature clothespins (from Michaels's or Hobby Lobby or similar place), or instead, you can use mini alligator clips from an electronic store, whatever is around you. After installing all ratlines, flip the card and mount it behind shrouds on the opposite side and start all over. Have fun!

You were right before - placing behind a card with pencilled runs of the shrouds and ratlines helps a lot, not only to maintain equal space between ratlines, but also to maintain straight shrouds - if the ratlines are too taught, they will pull on and distort straight run of the shrouds - you will see it immediately, as compared with the pencilled shrouds on the card behind. So, I strongly recommend this card pattern. If it is pencilled on both sides, you can reverse it and use it on the other side - that way you'll get them perfectly symmetrical. Also, using dark (black) colored thread for ratlines, instead of tan, will optically make them look thinner (even thogh they may not be). But, there is this issue, were ratlines black or tan? I have seen both on the full size sailing vessels. So, you have to decide yourself.