Dziadeczek
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Everything posted by Dziadeczek
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Why don't you try to do, what I suggested in here earlier on: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/11750-new-memberwith-problems/ After marking the bearding line by joining the tips of all temporarily installed bulkheads (no glue yet), carefully cut off the lower section of your keel (made out of basswood in this kit) and replace it with the one you made from solid hardwood (remember to add a bit of wood to its thickness, allowing for the loss of basswood keel that you cut off, due to the kerf of your blade). Before joining (glueing) both pieces together, file off their edges - you'll end up with a nice rabbet after you join them. If you are careful enough, you can gradually change the angle while filing off the edges in various sections of your keel, thus making this rabbet better shaped for the lowest planks which you later on tuck in there. After glueing both pieces of your keel, secure them further with several thin pieces of wood (eg. treenails, or such) glued into predrilled holes through the lower keel and into your bass keel. This is exactly the way I did with my Rattlesnake (MS) model. I used a piece of cherry for my lower keel and planked the hull also with cherry planks. Looks much better than basswood, in my opinion. -
Tiny fake nails/nail heads
Dziadeczek replied to Landlocked123's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
I haven't done it, but perhaps it would be worthwhile trying it: It however produces round nail heads, not hexagonal. -
Deck clamp notches
Dziadeczek replied to Dziadeczek's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
You are right about that, Druxey. This indeed is a French 74 gun ship model. J. Boudriot in his "The 74 gun ship" vol. 1 writes:
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Deck clamp notches
Dziadeczek replied to Dziadeczek's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Good idea! I will try it. Thanks!!! -
I have a question. How do you cut these notches for deck beams into the deck clamps? I understand that doing it off the model would be much easier, but then, how do you determine their exact locations OFF the model? On the other hand, cutting them on the model would be exceedingly difficult due to immediate proximity of frames and external planking (not enough space to manouver cutting tools). Any help would be appreciated. Regards, Thomas
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Here is an example, how to do it. I used miniature clothespins (from Michaels's or Hobby Lobby or similar place), or instead, you can use mini alligator clips from an electronic store, whatever is around you. After installing all ratlines, flip the card and mount it behind shrouds on the opposite side and start all over. Waxing the ratlines after installation is nearly impossible, so wax your line BEFORE. Have fun!
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Here is an example, how to do it. I used miniature clothespins (from Michaels's or Hobby Lobby or similar place), or instead, you can use mini alligator clips from an electronic store, whatever is around you. After installing all ratlines, flip the card and mount it behind shrouds on the opposite side and start all over. Have fun!
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You were right before - placing behind a card with pencilled runs of the shrouds and ratlines helps a lot, not only to maintain equal space between ratlines, but also to maintain straight shrouds - if the ratlines are too taught, they will pull on and distort straight run of the shrouds - you will see it immediately, as compared with the pencilled shrouds on the card behind. So, I strongly recommend this card pattern. If it is pencilled on both sides, you can reverse it and use it on the other side - that way you'll get them perfectly symmetrical. Also, using dark (black) colored thread for ratlines, instead of tan, will optically make them look thinner (even thogh they may not be). But, there is this issue, were ratlines black or tan? I have seen both on the full size sailing vessels. So, you have to decide yourself.
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How would you improve your Byrnes tools?
Dziadeczek replied to Keith_W's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
KeithW, you can get various draw plates of different hole sizes from jewelry supplies stores. Excellent quality, like the Byrnes draw plate. Also, they sell draw plates of different shape holes, for instance square, triangular, rectangular... -
I remember that some time ago Micro-Mark was selling special dado washers for their Microlux saws. They looked like regular steel washers, except they were tapered on one edge so the blade mounted between them was spinning cockeyed and thus cutting a dado groove. I never used them, so I cannot voach for them. Also I am not sure if they still sell them. It would perhaps be worthwhile to try and see if they would fit into the Byrnes saw.
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Looking for rigging line for custom model ship
Dziadeczek replied to wdperson's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Lloyd Warner out of Utah also sales various sizes of rigging line (his is from 100% linen). Give him a buzz at warwoods@infowest.com and ask for miniature rope code no. 6011, that is 50 feet of rope of .080 inch = 2 mm. According to his most recent price list, he wants 13 dollars for this particular one, but make sure. -
Try to make a rope grommet (your scale permitting), like this one: Also see this link: http://scouting1659.org/minnow/doc/minto/HOW%20TO-%20Make%20a%20Rope%20Grommet.pdf
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As far as I know, the Byrnes saw won't allow for angled cuts (only 90 deg. cuts) while the Proxxon will.
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Try using dry soft brush to loosen dirt. Also, it seems that compressed air in cans (like those used for computers) blow a bit stronger than an airbrush compressor.
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Scroll saw operation
Dziadeczek replied to bigcreekdad's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
This is normal. Try to be a bit gentler with pushing the wood and let the blade do the job. -
Try using a thicker blade. If you are using a very thin slitting blade, it gets hot very quickly and soft - subsequently it bends and you get uneven cuts. Thicker blade won't heat up quickly, will stay cooler and will cut evenly, even though you'll waste a bit more material due to thickness of blade.
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Hi, You can use thin strips of wood veneer for planking of your models (providing that the scale of the model is appropriate). This is done constantly on the Polish website Koga. They use it for double planking or plank over the solid hull, though. Band saw would be way too big and aggresive, even with the smallest blade, and you would ruin your veneer that way. I have never planked anything with veneers, but people there tell that they first would wet the veneer sheet and cut it with sharp scissors, scalpel or paper guillotine (like that one used for photographs and/or printer paper), easier done when the sheet is wet than dry. In order to further spill such rectangular planks, you can subsequently shape them into more elliptical pieces with a scalpel/exacto knife, cutting super carefully WITH grain and not against it. Difficult, but supposedly can be done... Where in LA you live? I live in Glendale. Perhaps we could meet some time to talk about such things... Just a suggestion... :-) Thomas
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Hi members, I have a question regarding this particular cyllindrical black structure with, what appears to be a couple of reinforcing metal rings, indicated by a red arrow, on the attached illustration. This is a painting od the HMS Royal Katherine of 1664 by an unknown (to me) artist. I have never seen anything like this before. Does anyone have a clue? Regards, Thomas
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Get yourself a brochure "Planking The Built-Up Ship Model" by Jim Roberts. You'll find there the answers to your questions and more...
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I would reposition your battens, perhaps like this:
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Pfingst is the Rolls Royce of all rotary tools.
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For a better controlled process, build yourself a simple jig. Get 2 paint mixing sticks (for free from Home Depot), cut them to appropriate lengths (slightly longer than the length of your mast) and glue to each on one side a strip of medium grade sand paper. At one end of such stick glue short piece of wood (spacer) of same thickness as the top of your mast, and at the opposite end glue two other spacers as thick as the bottom diameter of your mast, leaving center hole empty. Glue both sticks together. Especially helpful if you fabricate many identical parts. Clamp your jig to the worktable. Insert one end of your dowel into a chuck of a handheld drill and place the opposite end of the dowel into this center hole of your jig. Start your drill and gently press it into your jig, until it goes all the way. It will be stopped by the smaller spacer at the other end. Voila! I saw this concept in the Polish shipmodeling forum - one modeler was fabricating a few dozen oars for his model. You can see it here (scroll down the page half way to see appropriate pics). http://www.koga.net.pl/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=44911&p=57251&hilit=galera#p57251
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Can anyone recommend a miniature hand plane?
Dziadeczek replied to Bettina's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I have these two and they are excellent
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Sherline 4000 Lathe Question
Dziadeczek replied to alde's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
OK, I figured it out. You have a rear mounted cut off tool holder (post) instead of the standard one (front mounted, rightside up). Also, it looks that your lathe came with a cross slide taken from their mill. You have to exchange it into a thinner one - dedicated to their lathe. Sorry for the confusion. Thomas -
Sherline 4000 Lathe Question
Dziadeczek replied to alde's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Upon closer examination of your pic, it seems to me that you have possibly mounted the cut-off tool post incorrectly in your lathe. Are you sure that the post is not mounted upside down? (the slanted surface should be facing down). Besides, I am not sure you can turn anything on Sherline lathes in the reversed position, from the back of your cross slide. Try to mount it the right side up and in front (facing you) of the cross slide table. This should lower the tip of your cut off tool, hopefully just at the center of your work piece.
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