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Dziadeczek

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Everything posted by Dziadeczek

  1. Dziadeczek
    KeithW, you can get various draw plates of different hole sizes from jewelry supplies stores. Excellent quality, like the Byrnes draw plate. Also, they sell draw plates of different shape holes, for instance square, triangular, rectangular...
  2. Dziadeczek
    I remember that some time ago Micro-Mark was selling special dado washers for their Microlux saws. They looked like regular steel washers, except they were tapered on one edge so the blade mounted between them was spinning cockeyed and thus cutting a dado groove. I never used them, so I cannot voach for them. Also I am not sure if they still sell them. It would perhaps be worthwhile to try and see if they would fit into the Byrnes saw.
  3. Dziadeczek
    Lloyd Warner out of Utah also sales various sizes of rigging line (his is from 100% linen). Give him a buzz at warwoods@infowest.com and ask for miniature rope code no. 6011, that is 50 feet of rope of .080 inch = 2 mm. According to his most recent price list, he wants 13 dollars for this particular one, but make sure.
  4. Dziadeczek
    Try to make a rope grommet (your scale permitting), like this one: Also see this link: http://scouting1659.org/minnow/doc/minto/HOW%20TO-%20Make%20a%20Rope%20Grommet.pdf
  5. Dziadeczek
    As far as I know, the Byrnes saw won't allow for angled cuts (only 90 deg. cuts) while the Proxxon will.
  6. Dziadeczek
    Try using dry soft brush to loosen dirt. Also, it seems that compressed air in cans (like those used for computers) blow a bit stronger than an airbrush compressor.
  7. Dziadeczek
    This is normal. Try to be a bit gentler with pushing the wood and let the blade do the job.
  8. Dziadeczek
    Try using a thicker blade. If you are using a very thin slitting blade, it gets hot very quickly and soft - subsequently it bends and you get uneven cuts. Thicker blade won't heat up quickly, will stay cooler and will cut evenly, even though you'll waste a bit more material due to thickness of blade.
  9. Dziadeczek
    Hi, You can use thin strips of wood veneer for planking of your models (providing that the scale of the model is appropriate). This is done constantly on the Polish website Koga. They use it for double planking or plank over the solid hull, though. Band saw would be way too big and aggresive, even with the smallest blade, and you would ruin your veneer that way. I have never planked anything with veneers, but people there tell that they first would wet the veneer sheet and cut it with sharp scissors, scalpel or paper guillotine (like that one used for photographs and/or printer paper), easier done when the sheet is wet than dry. In order to further spill such rectangular planks, you can subsequently shape them into more elliptical pieces with a scalpel/exacto knife, cutting super carefully WITH grain and not against it. Difficult, but supposedly can be done... Where in LA you live? I live in Glendale. Perhaps we could meet some time to talk about such things... Just a suggestion... :-) Thomas
  10. Dziadeczek
    Hi members, I have a question regarding this particular cyllindrical black structure with, what appears to be a couple of reinforcing metal rings, indicated by a red arrow, on the attached illustration. This is a painting od the HMS Royal Katherine of 1664 by an unknown (to me) artist. I have never seen anything like this before. Does anyone have a clue? Regards, Thomas
  11. Dziadeczek
    Get yourself a brochure "Planking The Built-Up Ship Model" by Jim Roberts. You'll find there the answers to your questions and more...
  12. Dziadeczek
    I would reposition your battens, perhaps like this:
  13. Dziadeczek
    Pfingst is the Rolls Royce of all rotary tools.
  14. Dziadeczek
    For a better controlled process, build yourself a simple jig. Get 2 paint mixing sticks (for free from Home Depot), cut them to appropriate lengths (slightly longer than the length of your mast) and glue to each on one side a strip of medium grade sand paper. At one end of such stick glue short piece of wood (spacer) of same thickness as the top of your mast, and at the opposite end glue two other spacers as thick as the bottom diameter of your mast, leaving center hole empty. Glue both sticks together. Especially helpful if you fabricate many identical parts. Clamp your jig to the worktable. Insert one end of your dowel into a chuck of a handheld drill and place the opposite end of the dowel into this center hole of your jig. Start your drill and gently press it into your jig, until it goes all the way. It will be stopped by the smaller spacer at the other end. Voila! I saw this concept in the Polish shipmodeling forum - one modeler was fabricating a few dozen oars for his model. You can see it here (scroll down the page half way to see appropriate pics). http://www.koga.net.pl/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=44911&p=57251&hilit=galera#p57251
  15. Dziadeczek
    I have these two and they are excellent
  16. Dziadeczek
    OK, I figured it out. You have a rear mounted cut off tool holder (post) instead of the standard one (front mounted, rightside up). Also, it looks that your lathe came with a cross slide taken from their mill. You have to exchange it into a thinner one - dedicated to their lathe. Sorry for the confusion. Thomas
  17. Dziadeczek
    Upon closer examination of your pic, it seems to me that you have possibly mounted the cut-off tool post incorrectly in your lathe. Are you sure that the post is not mounted upside down? (the slanted surface should be facing down). Besides, I am not sure you can turn anything on Sherline lathes in the reversed position, from the back of your cross slide. Try to mount it the right side up and in front (facing you) of the cross slide table. This should lower the tip of your cut off tool, hopefully just at the center of your work piece.
  18. Dziadeczek
    I have a Sherline lathe model 4410 and the thickness of my crossslide is .62. Hope this helps...
  19. Dziadeczek
    Dear Mr. Hayes, I recently was (unsuccesfully) looking for a swiss pear supplier in S. California. Some owners of local hardwood stores looked at me strangely when I mentioned swiss pear - as if they were not sure what this was! Really? A couple of weeks ago, while visiting the San Diego Maritime Museum, I asked one of their local ship modelers about his source of swiss pear. He said that he gets all his wood from the Hobby Mill (but he was not sure if the Hobby Mill sells swiss pear too). Today, I notices your entry, so I checked your website and it does appear that you actually do sell swiss pear. My question is, since I mill all pieces by myself from a larger stock, as needed, I am looking for a larger piece, the size of a typical bookcase shelf. Could I order such a piece from you, or you only send precut pieces to your customers? Additionally, what is the price for your swiss pear (your website doesn't mention prices)? Best regards, Thomas
  20. Dziadeczek
    Hi Karl, Many thanks for reposting the missing photos. Watching them all, is a true joy! Best regards, Thomas
  21. Dziadeczek
    Hi Mr. Jeronimo (Karl). Thanks for your continuing updates of your splendid work. I wish though, you could repost some of your photos of the Main Mast Section, that are not showing for some reason (patience and time permitting, of course). Specifically speaking, I am refering to some pics on page 16 (Teil 28), all pics on page 17 (Teil 29 and Teil 30), some pics on page 25 (Teil 39) and the entire page 26 (Teil 40). I am treating your excellent thread on the Bonhomme Richard as a guide to scratch building in general (and a motivational tool as well) and am studying closely all of your pictures, learning a lot of your modeling techniques and historical shipbuilding practices. This all reminds me of the excellent book of Bernard Frolich on the ship modeling. Hats off to you!!! Many thanks again! Thomas
  22. Dziadeczek
    Simple and effective. Thanks a bunch!!!
  23. Dziadeczek
    That's exactly what I would have said.

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