Dziadeczek

The Big Reveal!
 
This kit proved to be much more challenging than I anticipated, but I am mostly happy with the result. The propeller hub ended up being a little troublesome -- the first painting effort produced a cracked finish, so several additional rounds of filling and sanding were needed. It wound up being pretty smooth, though, and easily wins the "Best Paper Hub I Have Ever Done" award. Enjoy the pictures!
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
I really like the angle on this next shot because you can easily see the Typhoon's lines in the ol' Hurricane.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
This last one is the new wallpaper on my phone.

 
Cheers!
 

Hi ☺️
 
 last photos before putting the glass on the model

Hello,
my finger is so far useable again and so I finished today the bulwark.



 

Its scary to note that my last update was 9 months ago, much has dragged me away from keeping current with other's builds on this wonderful site, and making progress myself.  While not much, this brings me up to date.
 
Head Grating:
This caused much pondering!  Like everything, this had to be scratch built. and wasn't quite sure whether I could pull of the gracefully curved gratings that grace many period models.  In the end, this turned out to be a highly enjoyable little project.  The main framing elements were built following the layout and dimensions of previously assembled components.  The outside angled edge follows the curve of the main headrail, and the inside a foreshortened version.  No real secret other than use of lots of templates and continual trial fitting.  The larger framing elements were joined with a simple box joint for strength, the battens were individually shaped and glued end on.  Once completed, the front of the seats of ease were attached to simplify final installation.

Catheads, fo'c'sl plansheer and breasthook:
With the gratings finalised, it was possible to install the catheads with some confidence.  The breasthook was cut following dimension estimates from contemporary models (as much as possible) Prior to that however, the fo'c'sl plansheer was finalised, which required the underside where the catheads are located to be slightly angled to allow for the upward slope of the cathead given the overlap of the plansheer, and to ensure it sits flat.

Timberheads:
It was necessary t get my head around how I was going shape the timberheads, and figure out what was possible, so that I could both get some practice in shaping these and maximise the chance that these could be kept consistent and of an acceptable appearance.  I did not want to have to redo the head rails as these had taken many hours to make.  After some experimentation, the following approach seemed to provide the most consistent results for me.  2x5mm pear was used.
 
From left to right:
Preventer cuts were carefully made using a jig and #12 Exacto blade The edges were cut back gently to roughly preform the shape.  I found the wood surface had a tendency to break off even with care so there were losses.  Wipe on poly was applied at the cuts at this stage to both prove better visibility for further shaping, and also to harden the edges that had been formed The sloped  faces were further refined, again carefully using a #12 Exacto blade, sanding sticks and microfiles.  The top is deliberately made a little overlong as it makes shaping easier The top is reduced to final dimension... The overall height is reduced to final dimensions (in this case 10mm) Finalisation and installation of the main rail and grating:
The main rail could now be finally dimension and shaped.  As identified in TFFM, it did prove necessary to shape for rear outside profile to ensure it fits nicely to the cathead.  I couldn't find much in the way of detail here, but the AOTS Diana book shows a slight wedge of wood sitting between the hull and the head rail.  I decided to add two small wedges to ensure the headrail is fully secured to the hull.  The plansheer also had to be nicked to allow it to sit properly.

And with everything finally installed...I am greatly relieved and pleased with the way this has turned out as this proved to be a most challenging, but ultimately satisfying, adventure.  The fore seats of ease have been made up and will ultimate slot into the grating, but these will not be installed until the placement of the boomkins is determined as everything is very tight in this small area.

Good day,
Dear Bruma,
I have a few pictures of Fl.Cloud model, maybe You will find some idea for configuration / positioning sails on your model... as far as I could see, on this model ,choosed the case when both tacks and sheets of main/ lower courses looks tight at the same time...?!
And position of the yards looks similar to your model yards position...on your model maybe You shown some" excessive "bellies" of lower sails?
Agree ,on the model, it looks "strange" if try to 100% tight and secure fore tack on the cathead...but when compare to Campbell drawings everything should be ok...
hm,strange... are the geometry of the kit model ,such as length of the yards,masts positions, size of the sails mutch the dimensions on the Campbells drawings of KS ?
maybe on the kit model yards shorter than it should be?
Or angle of the yards turn is not sufficient?
At least, maybe there is sence to choose compromise variant  when and yards sharp turned but and sails corner positioned in such way when both tacks and sheets looks tight?

I continue with the structures of the head:
 









 
 
 

Hi, and thanks to all   ❤️
 
Rings:
 
 

My Chapter 10 posts were too long, I won’t take the time to do that much again.
 
The quarterdeck is pretty much the last “big” thing to do, starting with planking and ending with rails. It’s been such a journey from the first framing, through months of planking and the many detailed components assemblies since. Not sure I want it to end.
 
To keep it short, here are just four final photos of the quarterdeck.




 

1582675905_1485165543-bb564-cutty-sark-main-plan.pdf (modelexpo-online.com)
1582675905_1551258603564-cutty-sark-vejl-040119.pdf (modelexpo-online.com)

1582675905_1485165543-bb564-cutty-sark-main-plan.pdf (modelexpo-online.com)
1582675905_1551258603564-cutty-sark-vejl-040119.pdf (modelexpo-online.com)

Thank you all for your input. After some thinking, I decided to go with a silver-enriched solder wire I obtained long time ago from Home Depot. I don't think it is called Stay Brite, but I forgot its exact name.
I remember that it can be applied either with a soldering gun or with a torch and it is significantly stronger than regular 50-50 or 60-40 wire. I have a tiny soldering pen that gives me a lot more control than a mini torch, so I've been able to resolder those broken joints with this wire and give it a bit thicker joint (previously I was filing off extra thickness of solder to make it as thin as the brass rings. That turned out to be too thin and week). 
The joints will be covered with a rubbing pounch anyway, so they will be invisible.
The solder joints don't get as black as the brass with Birchwood Casey, so I use just for these spots a different blackener - used for stained glass work, which seems to work there somewhat better.
Thanks again Everybody!!!    🙂

I removed and redid the two lower cheeks: a friend and great modeller pointed out to me their incorrect positioning, which diverged too much from the upper cheek!
Sometimes the most obvious mistakes are right under your nose but you can't see them!
 





 

Flag installed.

This completes the model (!!!!!!).

Now my attention turns to finalizing the display starting with the cradle.  I would like to do this in mahogany to match the base board.  Let's see how it comes out.  Worst case scenario- I am unable to improve on what I have, in which case, I will paint the current cradle black.  We shall see.  More posts to come.

Finished the jackstaff using finer tube and bracing wire, bit more to scale when you compare to photos of ship. 👍 even got the chrysanthemum painted and fitted, it’s now a Japanese warship 😂  finally l am trying to add small chain for securing the anchors, 42 links to the inch smallest l could find so kind of works 50 links to inch would be better if you can find it ? This is a lot more fiddly than l was expecting, worth it ? Done one and dragging my feet to do the other two. That’s me for the moment, shall push myself forward 🤛

Sandpaper too coarse?

Sandpaper too coarse?

The boat placed on a stand...


...and bound...
 



 

Sandpaper too coarse?

Hello,
the carpenters started with planking the QD. Here first the balcony and the parquet in the great cabin for the captain. At that time only the great cabin had a parquet. 





And here the painter has oiled the floor

Don't thread it into the chuck all the way! Just loosely place it there and tap it.

Another part of decoration on the balconies added. It is slowly filling up😉
 
Jan

THANKS.  😀   Yes, I did it.  (The pic I attached is now, sort of, old...)
The more current state of affairs is here (entry # 60) + recently I attached all 5 anchors as well.
 

I know, I bought that brochure from Ancre. But, it was only AFTER I drew the remaining frames by myself, so, for me it was like a proverbial  "mustard after dinner".
You are right, my model is in 1:48 scale. I intend to build it fully masted and rigged, with sails, if my endurance will permit.
Whether it is built strictly in Admiralty style or not, is of less importance to me. I used this name remembering all those models with unplanked lower hulls and partially planked decks. OK, perhaps the better name is - a Navy Board ship model! It is some kind of hybrid, I think.
What I wanted to show here  is the way I built it - in the H. Hahn's method, upside down, mounted in a flat base board, with those extensions of frames (later on to be cut off). Yes, that way is a lot more wasteful of wood than shaping individual futtocks and faying them together and assembling the hull right-side up. But, at that time I was less experienced and fell that the Hahn's method was better suited for me. I also used American walnut for frames (which I wouldn't do today). Some fruitwood would be better...
Overall, my model represents largely my own artistic license and not necessarily some rigid convention, Admiralty or Navy Board, or such... The principal reason for my build was to learn all those intricacies of historic ship building practices - in this case French ones. Just reading Boudriot's books was very educational, but later on building a model after them, was an entirely different quality...     😄
 
Best regards,
 
Thomas