ulrich

Thanks everyone for the comments and the Likes.  It is hard to believe that so much time has passed since I last updated my build log.  I have been working on finishing up the interior of my Longboat.  I turned some belaying pins using my dremel too l​using it as a lathe.  They were very small, but I found that the more I made, the results kept improving.  I also made the windlass and after the third attempt, I finally made one that I was satisfied with.
 
​Here are some pictures of the work that I have done.
 

 

Worked on finishing various odd jobs on the back of the ship. I put the center "insignia" ornament in place. Tidied up the windows. Still working on the paint job of all the ornaments and wood. I completely repainted the green stained woods and shaded them using inks. I guess the border between what is a wooden model ship and a warhammer miniature is beginning to fade ;-)  In this fashion I could even re-paint the entire ship hehe.
 

 

Good Morning All,
Thank you for stopping by. Well, I have finished the side planks on the 1899 Albatross.She is ready for the bottom planks. I am working on the 1942 Albatross this weekend. Last night I soaked the chin logs and nailed them to the forms to get the correct shape. I will get them glued into place today and start on the the side planks.

Gluing the first plank onto the 1899 Albatross. I added 3 of the side frames on each side to help hold the planks straight. They are not substantial. Their actual dimensions were some where about 2-1/2" x 5" The rest of the side frames will be added later.
 

The completed side planking on the 1899 Albatross.
 

Bow Details.
 

Stern Details.
 

The Chin logs and side planks sanded down and ready for the bottom planks.

Hi everyone. I know it has been awhile since I posted an update. I have made some progress. I have added 2 permanent strongbacks. One ate the bow and the second at the stern. I have added a temporary strongback at the midship.  I am attaching the chin log to the keel and transom.

The Transom  and other parts laid out.
 

Attaching the transom.
 

The transom and the rudder case.
 

The Keel with the transom.
 


The blocks of wood for the bow.
 

The stern strongback. The strongback also supports the rudder case.
 

 

Gluing the chin logs to the transom and the stern strongback.
 

The chin log glued to the transom and nailed and glued  to the strongback. Earlier I had soaked the chin logs in water and nailed them to the forms.
 
Thanks for stopping by. Until next time
 
Catch Yall Later

Happy New Year Everyone! I hope everyone had a great 2015 and you have an even better 2016!
 
Well, I finished the bathroom remodel a couple of weeks back and I have finally got back to my skipjack.

 
I may not have got to work very much on the Albatross, I did thank about it often. I was thinking about the plans for the Albatross. The plans show her as she was built, as well how she appeared after being  modified to use gas powered winches (winders). I have been saying that I may come back and build the Albatross as she appeared after the modification. This would show a more complete history of skipjacks. I realized that to build both versions, it would be easier to build both hulls at the same time. I may not finish them together, but the hulls will match closer. While I worked on the remodeling I was able to put some time in, on the second keel for the later version. The new keel was such an improvement over the first keel, that I decided to create another to replace the first. Today was the first time that I was able to put any significant time on the Albatross. I was able to get all of the pieces glued and will complete the shaping tomorrow.

The new keel with the parts for the second keel. The original keel is at the top.

Gluing the aft section of the keel. I am using an aluminum angle to keep the assembly straight.

Gluing the forward section on.
 
Thank you for stopping by,
 
Catch Yall Later

Hello All,
I built this model 10 years ago. From my teens (now I'm 40) I have been a modeler, building plastic kits of all kinds, but always wanted to build a wooden ship. I gave a try to a solid hull, pretty simple Santa Maria (shaping the hull with a rasp from a square block..), then, when I could afford, a Billings Mayflower (which was not up to publishing standards).
 
The Corel kit was a major step up, the first ship I taken seriously, and this became the period of my modeling, I enjoyed the most. I found the old DDM site, read a lot, purchased books and discovered something new with each part I made. This will never come back, and this model still reminds me to these exciting times.
 
Things have changed a lot since. Having two kids now, in addition to heavily increased workload, I mostly exercise model building by watching other people's work. Recently I read a post about majority of MSW members are not participating. Feeling guilty in this regard here comes my log of the Prins Willem.
 
I built the kit mostly out of the box, and despite it's shortcomings on the historical accuracy, had a lot of fun. I will try to continuously update the log as time allows.

David

Art, When I built Blue Jackets Atlantic (which was a while ago, pictures below) only a red/iron oxide color was mentioned. The green artist rendering is cool looking but may be the artist concept....As always it is your choice...


 

This is my progress so far. I have just about finished the first layer of planking on my bounty. I just have a few wedges to add into the stern and then I will give it a sand. I am moderately satisfied with the first planking. There are a few minor bumps along the hull that I'm not sure how they got there but I'm hoping that a good sanding job along with a bit of wood filler will create a good surface for my second planking.

Greetings,
 
I happy to say the BlueJacket 80' ELCO PT Boat is finally finished after a little over two years!    
 

 

 

 
Cheers,
Tim

Hi, you'all
a short update on the issue of parrel beads: I did purchase a bunch of toho beads but it turned out their holes are too large and that does not look right. My friend and mentor from the HRSMS (Hampton Roads Ship Model Society) pointed me in the right direction: take a hardwood dowel (I used holly), pull it through a draw plate to obtain the desired thickness, drill a small hole in the center (don't drill too deep, you might get off center), than cut it to the desired length with a sharp blade (#11), rolling the dowel against it to avoid pressure which could deform the dowel. I also made a small jig to get the same length for all beads. After that, I run these beads for a few seconds in my block tumbler to round their edges. This results in a bead not exactly round but slightly cylindrical. Dipping them into some wood oil will give them a "yellowish" color, same as boxwood (I think). The beads I made are slightly less than one mm in diameter and length which I think is appropriate for a 1/8" scale.
Happy modeling
Ulrich

Hello all,
I made some progress on Staten Yacht prototype. All decorations are ready now. Some photos are below.
Best regards
Daniel

Whatever pleases anyone who buys a kit, then makes their own parts, tickles me plum silly! What brings pleasure to the model maker is all that counts. If others find fault with that, let them find pleasure in being ignored.
jud

Hi Don,
 I think you just made my point. If you replaced all of the parts and material you just listed, that would just about be the entire kit. Why not buy those better materials and a set of plans and build a better model basically from scratch.
Please understand, I am fully in agreement with replacing some stuff that might be particularly bad, as most kits seem to need, but not find fault with just about everything in a kit. All you are doing here is paying good money to kit manufacturers and certainly not encouraging them to clean up their act.
 
I have posted build logs here of kits I have completed or are in the process and you can see that I do replace, modify, or add parts. I would not however trash an entire set of expensive metal castings, a whole set of cannon carriages or all of the blocks etc.
I use this forum to get info on the quality of various kits, and if they look that bad as to need most of them replaced, I would seek a better kit, or build from scratch.
 
Vince P.

I have no fear as far as scratch building, I just prefer a faster pace when building. I don't want to invest in a bunch of tools to maybe build one or two ship models in 10 years and by the time you factor in all that scratch building material extra tools and such, you have far surpassed the cost of even the most expensive kit. To me, there is nothing like getting that package in the mail, cracking open that crisp new box and see all those nice trinkets inside and smell that nice cut wood. It makes me smile just thinking about it. I just can't seem to get that worked up over a scratch build project. But then again, I never tout any of the models that I have built as being museum quality because I know without a doubt that anyone else who buys that kit can build just as nice a model or nicer than the one I build even if I change a few things on it, it's still a decrative display. Now to me most any scratch built model would be considered museum quality. But this is just my opinion and my opinion alone so don't go a hating.
 
 
mike 

Hi, you'all
a short update on the issue of parrel beads: I did purchase a bunch of toho beads but it turned out their holes are too large and that does not look right. My friend and mentor from the HRSMS (Hampton Roads Ship Model Society) pointed me in the right direction: take a hardwood dowel (I used holly), pull it through a draw plate to obtain the desired thickness, drill a small hole in the center (don't drill too deep, you might get off center), than cut it to the desired length with a sharp blade (#11), rolling the dowel against it to avoid pressure which could deform the dowel. I also made a small jig to get the same length for all beads. After that, I run these beads for a few seconds in my block tumbler to round their edges. This results in a bead not exactly round but slightly cylindrical. Dipping them into some wood oil will give them a "yellowish" color, same as boxwood (I think). The beads I made are slightly less than one mm in diameter and length which I think is appropriate for a 1/8" scale.
Happy modeling
Ulrich

Hi, you'all
a short update on the issue of parrel beads: I did purchase a bunch of toho beads but it turned out their holes are too large and that does not look right. My friend and mentor from the HRSMS (Hampton Roads Ship Model Society) pointed me in the right direction: take a hardwood dowel (I used holly), pull it through a draw plate to obtain the desired thickness, drill a small hole in the center (don't drill too deep, you might get off center), than cut it to the desired length with a sharp blade (#11), rolling the dowel against it to avoid pressure which could deform the dowel. I also made a small jig to get the same length for all beads. After that, I run these beads for a few seconds in my block tumbler to round their edges. This results in a bead not exactly round but slightly cylindrical. Dipping them into some wood oil will give them a "yellowish" color, same as boxwood (I think). The beads I made are slightly less than one mm in diameter and length which I think is appropriate for a 1/8" scale.
Happy modeling
Ulrich

Hi, you'all
a short update on the issue of parrel beads: I did purchase a bunch of toho beads but it turned out their holes are too large and that does not look right. My friend and mentor from the HRSMS (Hampton Roads Ship Model Society) pointed me in the right direction: take a hardwood dowel (I used holly), pull it through a draw plate to obtain the desired thickness, drill a small hole in the center (don't drill too deep, you might get off center), than cut it to the desired length with a sharp blade (#11), rolling the dowel against it to avoid pressure which could deform the dowel. I also made a small jig to get the same length for all beads. After that, I run these beads for a few seconds in my block tumbler to round their edges. This results in a bead not exactly round but slightly cylindrical. Dipping them into some wood oil will give them a "yellowish" color, same as boxwood (I think). The beads I made are slightly less than one mm in diameter and length which I think is appropriate for a 1/8" scale.
Happy modeling
Ulrich

Hi, you'all
a short update on the issue of parrel beads: I did purchase a bunch of toho beads but it turned out their holes are too large and that does not look right. My friend and mentor from the HRSMS (Hampton Roads Ship Model Society) pointed me in the right direction: take a hardwood dowel (I used holly), pull it through a draw plate to obtain the desired thickness, drill a small hole in the center (don't drill too deep, you might get off center), than cut it to the desired length with a sharp blade (#11), rolling the dowel against it to avoid pressure which could deform the dowel. I also made a small jig to get the same length for all beads. After that, I run these beads for a few seconds in my block tumbler to round their edges. This results in a bead not exactly round but slightly cylindrical. Dipping them into some wood oil will give them a "yellowish" color, same as boxwood (I think). The beads I made are slightly less than one mm in diameter and length which I think is appropriate for a 1/8" scale.
Happy modeling
Ulrich

Hi, you'all
a short update on the issue of parrel beads: I did purchase a bunch of toho beads but it turned out their holes are too large and that does not look right. My friend and mentor from the HRSMS (Hampton Roads Ship Model Society) pointed me in the right direction: take a hardwood dowel (I used holly), pull it through a draw plate to obtain the desired thickness, drill a small hole in the center (don't drill too deep, you might get off center), than cut it to the desired length with a sharp blade (#11), rolling the dowel against it to avoid pressure which could deform the dowel. I also made a small jig to get the same length for all beads. After that, I run these beads for a few seconds in my block tumbler to round their edges. This results in a bead not exactly round but slightly cylindrical. Dipping them into some wood oil will give them a "yellowish" color, same as boxwood (I think). The beads I made are slightly less than one mm in diameter and length which I think is appropriate for a 1/8" scale.
Happy modeling
Ulrich

Hi, you'all
a short update on the issue of parrel beads: I did purchase a bunch of toho beads but it turned out their holes are too large and that does not look right. My friend and mentor from the HRSMS (Hampton Roads Ship Model Society) pointed me in the right direction: take a hardwood dowel (I used holly), pull it through a draw plate to obtain the desired thickness, drill a small hole in the center (don't drill too deep, you might get off center), than cut it to the desired length with a sharp blade (#11), rolling the dowel against it to avoid pressure which could deform the dowel. I also made a small jig to get the same length for all beads. After that, I run these beads for a few seconds in my block tumbler to round their edges. This results in a bead not exactly round but slightly cylindrical. Dipping them into some wood oil will give them a "yellowish" color, same as boxwood (I think). The beads I made are slightly less than one mm in diameter and length which I think is appropriate for a 1/8" scale.
Happy modeling
Ulrich

I uploaded this to the wrong section.  My apologies. I'll add the masting and rigging photos as I progress.

Most important messages fast set ...  
 

 

... there she sails, the proud frigate, only the storm jib set, driven by the devastating energy of the elements, riding the crests, her flag beaming with pride, being pushed by her crew to the limit, always facing abyss and downfall!
 

 
The crew is fighting the elements, the earth is splashing high, each hand movement is set with precision. With concision our master guides this pride of the austrian mountain marine towards new shores ... 
 

 


  

... my Heart will go ooooo-o-ho-o-n ...


 
 
 
 

... and the crew becomes one.

  
 

 
But what is this? The pilot missed the ship? Still stands on the far off 
shore? This in these extremely difficult waterways? Hastily the crew puts up the blue and yellow flag ...
 

 
  

... but he? He stays calm ...

  
 

 


... he knows that he is best equipped ...

 
 

 
 

... and so he keeps sailing towards Victory :-)
  



 

 
Epilogue:
Sometimes later, I was taken out of that wonderful dream, being sent downhill again. But this moment, I took it with me ☺
 
Liebe Grüße, Daniel
 
The complete story to be found in german:
http://www.segelschiffsmodellbau.com/t532f317-SMS-Trinkstein-in-schweren-Wellenbergen.html

SMS Trinkstein  
   
 
Not too long ago, I was visiting my moms family in the austrian Alps near Vienna. Then trekking a bit the mountains, I found her, in 1850 meters altitude, well hidden in the secret austrian dockyards, the SMS Trinkstein, the proud flagship of the Austrian Mountain Navy 🙂  
 


  
 
 
 
   
 
 
 
   
 
The sharp lined heavy metal bow and the magnificent curves, build out of the finest local materials that made her as strong and imperturbably as possibly, made my immediately cry of happiness.  
 
   
 
Later on, in the mountain hotel, after some touristic Germknödel (yeast dough dumpling with a mix of poppy seeds and sugar, filled with spicy plum jam and melted butter on top), some Jagertee (mixing overproof rum with black tea. It is served warm and is typically consumed during winter), some Schnaps (translation unnecessary) and some more Jagertee my mind started drifting away ...  
 
   
 
... and I saw her, the SMS Trinkstein ploughing with 11 to 12 knots through the transhumance of the Rax-Schneeberg-Plateaus, battering the elements into submission.  
 
   
 
And I recognised the SMS Trinkstein as a two masted flush deck frigate, a ship of the late Stonehenge-class, introducing the cruiser stern much earlier than any other nation. In many respects these classes were unique in many respects, but it is difficult to gather information due to the secret bases they operate from.  
 
   
 
Length over all stones is about 7,635 fathom, extreme width about 6,7 ell. The crew usually were some.   
 
   
 
And my inner eye saw the building up of the mountain waves, the storm-battered ground, cut by the sharp lined heavy metal bow ...  
 
   
 
 
 
   
 
 ... and the massive stone breast hooks, giving the needed strength to the stempost ...


  
 


  
 
   
 
 
 
   
 
 

... down to the enormous kelsons needed for the ultimate stable installation of the masts  
 
   
 
 
 
   
 
Also I saw emerging the great bow wave, being pushed forward by the vast brutal strength of the bow though the untouched earth leaving battered earth and scattered stones all over behind. Yes I was able to hear and feel that.  
 
   
 
The ships mascot was arriving soon ...   
 
   
 
 
 
   
 
... as was the rest of fresh pressed crew with their cute blue and white dress uniforms.

    
 
   
 
 
 
   
 
And there he came, with proudly shown chest, our flamboyant master and commander, receiving his hat and uniform ...

  


  
 
   
 
 
 
   
 
... and being the proud conquerer of earth, wind and daisies, master of the elements 🙂  
 
   
 
 

Some later views. All I have left to do is the Port forward section. Hope to finish by year end.

Continuation ( That's all folks !)