Bob Cleek

Bill,
 
That’s Volume 1.   At that time since there was no volume 2, there was no need to label it Volume 1.  Mine’s coming apart too.  The spiral binding of Volume 2 works better for us.
 
Roger

It's not an "either/or," but rather a "both/and" kind of thing. These volumes are simply collections of reprints of the "Shop Notes" section of the NRG Journal over two spans of time. (They should be due for another volume one of these days soon.) The subject matter is not highly organized in terms of distinguishing between highly sophisticated techniques and those which "will help the newbie most." (All will eventually be helpful to a newbie, but some will appeal primarily to the more experienced builder.) These books are goldmines of useful how-to-do it information, but step-by-step tutorials for newbies they are not.
 
Each volume can be purchased for $35 from the NRG Store online. Nautical Research Guild (thenrgstore.org) Used copies in good shape cost perhaps half that on average, but, by the time you cover shipping, you might as well spring for a brand new copy in good shape. If buying Volume I used, try to get a later printing which is spiral bound. It's helpful if the book will lay flat with the covers turned all the way back, reducing the space the book will take on your bench and making for easy copying of pages if that is desired. My Volume 1, purchased many years ago, was the glued paperback binding and it sheds pages, a problem I've solved with a couple of binder clips.  If cost is a limitation, used copies of both volumes are readily available on eBay and Amazon used books. See: Ship Modeler s Shop Notes 9780960345618 | eBay and Ship Modeler's Shop Notes: Edson, Merritt, Lankford, Ben, Mueller, Edward, Rubin, Norman: 9780960345618: Amazon.com: Books
 
To answer your question directly, if you can only afford one, I'd suggest Volume II, since it is the more recent selection of Shop Notes articles. Some of the material in Volume I, while still useful, can be somewhat dated. The level of sophistication in ship modeling has increased markedly in the last couple of decades. You can then buy Volume I later, as both remain in print. 
 
If you pursue the hobby for any length of time, you will quickly discover (and apparently already have) that an adequate research library is an essential tool for the ship modeler. Beware: IMHO, most of the newbie "how to do it" books advertised as such are not worth what they ask for them. Use the forum search engine to find threads on which books to buy for a decent reference library and start by buying the classics in your area of interest which you will find identified there. It's a good idea to develop the habit of making a "budget" for building your reference library and stick to it. By committing to $25 (or more) a month, which in today's money is no more than the old "three martini lunch" plus tip, and scouring for used books on line, you will be able to painlessly buy a book a month or so.

It's not an "either/or," but rather a "both/and" kind of thing. These volumes are simply collections of reprints of the "Shop Notes" section of the NRG Journal over two spans of time. (They should be due for another volume one of these days soon.) The subject matter is not highly organized in terms of distinguishing between highly sophisticated techniques and those which "will help the newbie most." (All will eventually be helpful to a newbie, but some will appeal primarily to the more experienced builder.) These books are goldmines of useful how-to-do it information, but step-by-step tutorials for newbies they are not.
 
Each volume can be purchased for $35 from the NRG Store online. Nautical Research Guild (thenrgstore.org) Used copies in good shape cost perhaps half that on average, but, by the time you cover shipping, you might as well spring for a brand new copy in good shape. If buying Volume I used, try to get a later printing which is spiral bound. It's helpful if the book will lay flat with the covers turned all the way back, reducing the space the book will take on your bench and making for easy copying of pages if that is desired. My Volume 1, purchased many years ago, was the glued paperback binding and it sheds pages, a problem I've solved with a couple of binder clips.  If cost is a limitation, used copies of both volumes are readily available on eBay and Amazon used books. See: Ship Modeler s Shop Notes 9780960345618 | eBay and Ship Modeler's Shop Notes: Edson, Merritt, Lankford, Ben, Mueller, Edward, Rubin, Norman: 9780960345618: Amazon.com: Books
 
To answer your question directly, if you can only afford one, I'd suggest Volume II, since it is the more recent selection of Shop Notes articles. Some of the material in Volume I, while still useful, can be somewhat dated. The level of sophistication in ship modeling has increased markedly in the last couple of decades. You can then buy Volume I later, as both remain in print. 
 
If you pursue the hobby for any length of time, you will quickly discover (and apparently already have) that an adequate research library is an essential tool for the ship modeler. Beware: IMHO, most of the newbie "how to do it" books advertised as such are not worth what they ask for them. Use the forum search engine to find threads on which books to buy for a decent reference library and start by buying the classics in your area of interest which you will find identified there. It's a good idea to develop the habit of making a "budget" for building your reference library and stick to it. By committing to $25 (or more) a month, which in today's money is no more than the old "three martini lunch" plus tip, and scouring for used books on line, you will be able to painlessly buy a book a month or so.

I have to agree with Bob's reasoning and his recommendation to get Vol 2. 
 

For personal reasons, I prefer Volume I.  I have a complete set of Nautical Research Journals dating back to 1975 when I joined the organization.  Volume II is mostly a reprint of materials already published in the Journal during this time period.
 
Volume I includes information that was either written especially for the Shop Notes or predates the journals that I have.
 
Roger

It's not an "either/or," but rather a "both/and" kind of thing. These volumes are simply collections of reprints of the "Shop Notes" section of the NRG Journal over two spans of time. (They should be due for another volume one of these days soon.) The subject matter is not highly organized in terms of distinguishing between highly sophisticated techniques and those which "will help the newbie most." (All will eventually be helpful to a newbie, but some will appeal primarily to the more experienced builder.) These books are goldmines of useful how-to-do it information, but step-by-step tutorials for newbies they are not.
 
Each volume can be purchased for $35 from the NRG Store online. Nautical Research Guild (thenrgstore.org) Used copies in good shape cost perhaps half that on average, but, by the time you cover shipping, you might as well spring for a brand new copy in good shape. If buying Volume I used, try to get a later printing which is spiral bound. It's helpful if the book will lay flat with the covers turned all the way back, reducing the space the book will take on your bench and making for easy copying of pages if that is desired. My Volume 1, purchased many years ago, was the glued paperback binding and it sheds pages, a problem I've solved with a couple of binder clips.  If cost is a limitation, used copies of both volumes are readily available on eBay and Amazon used books. See: Ship Modeler s Shop Notes 9780960345618 | eBay and Ship Modeler's Shop Notes: Edson, Merritt, Lankford, Ben, Mueller, Edward, Rubin, Norman: 9780960345618: Amazon.com: Books
 
To answer your question directly, if you can only afford one, I'd suggest Volume II, since it is the more recent selection of Shop Notes articles. Some of the material in Volume I, while still useful, can be somewhat dated. The level of sophistication in ship modeling has increased markedly in the last couple of decades. You can then buy Volume I later, as both remain in print. 
 
If you pursue the hobby for any length of time, you will quickly discover (and apparently already have) that an adequate research library is an essential tool for the ship modeler. Beware: IMHO, most of the newbie "how to do it" books advertised as such are not worth what they ask for them. Use the forum search engine to find threads on which books to buy for a decent reference library and start by buying the classics in your area of interest which you will find identified there. It's a good idea to develop the habit of making a "budget" for building your reference library and stick to it. By committing to $25 (or more) a month, which in today's money is no more than the old "three martini lunch" plus tip, and scouring for used books on line, you will be able to painlessly buy a book a month or so.

It's not an "either/or," but rather a "both/and" kind of thing. These volumes are simply collections of reprints of the "Shop Notes" section of the NRG Journal over two spans of time. (They should be due for another volume one of these days soon.) The subject matter is not highly organized in terms of distinguishing between highly sophisticated techniques and those which "will help the newbie most." (All will eventually be helpful to a newbie, but some will appeal primarily to the more experienced builder.) These books are goldmines of useful how-to-do it information, but step-by-step tutorials for newbies they are not.
 
Each volume can be purchased for $35 from the NRG Store online. Nautical Research Guild (thenrgstore.org) Used copies in good shape cost perhaps half that on average, but, by the time you cover shipping, you might as well spring for a brand new copy in good shape. If buying Volume I used, try to get a later printing which is spiral bound. It's helpful if the book will lay flat with the covers turned all the way back, reducing the space the book will take on your bench and making for easy copying of pages if that is desired. My Volume 1, purchased many years ago, was the glued paperback binding and it sheds pages, a problem I've solved with a couple of binder clips.  If cost is a limitation, used copies of both volumes are readily available on eBay and Amazon used books. See: Ship Modeler s Shop Notes 9780960345618 | eBay and Ship Modeler's Shop Notes: Edson, Merritt, Lankford, Ben, Mueller, Edward, Rubin, Norman: 9780960345618: Amazon.com: Books
 
To answer your question directly, if you can only afford one, I'd suggest Volume II, since it is the more recent selection of Shop Notes articles. Some of the material in Volume I, while still useful, can be somewhat dated. The level of sophistication in ship modeling has increased markedly in the last couple of decades. You can then buy Volume I later, as both remain in print. 
 
If you pursue the hobby for any length of time, you will quickly discover (and apparently already have) that an adequate research library is an essential tool for the ship modeler. Beware: IMHO, most of the newbie "how to do it" books advertised as such are not worth what they ask for them. Use the forum search engine to find threads on which books to buy for a decent reference library and start by buying the classics in your area of interest which you will find identified there. It's a good idea to develop the habit of making a "budget" for building your reference library and stick to it. By committing to $25 (or more) a month, which in today's money is no more than the old "three martini lunch" plus tip, and scouring for used books on line, you will be able to painlessly buy a book a month or so.

That will do it, for off-model rigging jobs, at least. A similar effect can be achieved by simply blowing for a couple of seconds on a knot dampened with shellac. The alcohol evaporates very quickly. The same is true if one thins their white carpenter's glue with denatured alcohol. It's the water content in the thinned glue that slows the curing time way down.

That will do it, for off-model rigging jobs, at least. A similar effect can be achieved by simply blowing for a couple of seconds on a knot dampened with shellac. The alcohol evaporates very quickly. The same is true if one thins their white carpenter's glue with denatured alcohol. It's the water content in the thinned glue that slows the curing time way down.

I presume you are familiar with spiling plank for hull shapes. (See: 
 
Planking decks is done using the same principles as planking hulls, but, being as decks are more or less flat (discounting the deck shear and camber which at smaller model scales is usually so negligible as not to be a consideration,) it's actually easier. To plank a deck, however, there are several layouts. Primarily, the options are to 1) run the planks of equal width and parallel to the center line or 2) run the planks curved to the shape of the covering boards.  Then you have the options of 1) nibbing or hooking the plank ends at the covering boards (and king plank in one version)  to one another avoid pointed ends, which are to be avoided because of the difficulties they pose in caulking a tight seam. These options will be determined by the vessel you are building. Generally, curved planking dictated by the covering board curves is "fancier" and more labor intensive and would not generally be seen in larger vessels. You will have to research the planking method employed on the vessel you are modeling.  The plan you pictured is, on my screen at least, difficult to see in detail, but it appears that it is a "sprung" plank deck that generally follows the curve of the deck edge at the hull, but forward, where the curve is sharper, accommodates the plank ends by a notched covering board. In full-size practice, the deck planks would be straight and the entire plank bent (or in this case, "edge set") to the curve desired. In modeling scales, the deck planking can be "bent on the flat" with a plank bending iron or clothing steam iron, as in this video: 
 
Once the type of planking is determined, I find it easiest to draw a paper or card template of the deck (or each level of deck, as the case may be) and draw the covering boards, king planks and planks on the template and then trace the template to make patterns for the planks, etc. Generally, whether planking is laid straight or curved, the the planks are generally not tapered. In cases where tapering deck planks is done, they can be spiled in the same manner as hull planking and cut to shape. 
 
The use of a template also allows the deck framing to be drawn on the template so that the "schedule" of plank butts can be accurately represented on the model, making sure that butts fall on frames where there is some "meat" below to which they can be fastened. 
 
Particularly in smaller scales, some modelers find it convenient to use stiff card (or in larger scales even thin plywood) for the deck template and glue thin deck planks directly to the card (or plywood) template and then glue the entire "planked" section of deck to the model. It's a lot easier to work with thin "planks" and covering boards that can be cut to shape with a scissors or knife and glued to the deck template underlayment than to fiddle with scale thickness planks one at a time on the model.  Such "faux" deck planking may be gotten out by shaving long, thin, strips from the edge of a piece of suitable stock with a sharp, properly tuned hand plane. In this fashion, it's easy to produce long curled shavings of any length desired, limited only to the length of the stock you shave them from. These curled shavings can be placed in hot water for a few minutes and then, while still hot, uncurled and laid flat between a couple of flat surfaces (e.g. sheets of window glass) and they will cool and dry flat and uncurled, like veneer, suitable for cutting to shape as planking, covering boards, deck furniture trim, or what have you. The edges of the planks can be blackened with a pencil to simulate the seam stopping, if desired and the decking, once dry on the underlayment can be stained to the finish desired. For those who use "wipe on" finishes, it is far easier to obtain a good wiped-on finish on a flat, unobstructed deck built in this way before it's installed on the model.
 
But, as said, you have to ascertain how the planking was laid on the prototype, or may have been laid on the prototype if that is otherwise unknown, so you know what planking layout you will need to devise. It seems you have a plan which may have that information on it, so copying that deck plan will easily give you the template you need, particularly the covering board notching, and your deck frame spacing.

I'm with the economists who explain that people who didn't spend money during the Pandemic lockdown and retailers who slowed production and didn't stock up with product adequate to meet the hugely increased spending now that the Pandemic is easing up occasioned the supply and inflation we are now experiencing. "Just in time" production and inventory warehousing backfired on us this time around. Now we've got big demand and small supply. We don't have the infrastructure to move the products. Whether that be to unload the hulls now anchored offshore waiting for dock space or the truckers and trucks to move it from the docks to the distribution centers to the retail shelves. Hence, inflation. The only  solution is to stop buying stuff right now! You win both ways doing that because 1) you don't pay temporarily inflated prices, and 2) less pressure on the manufacturing and supply chain means less inflationary pressure. Things will be back to normal soon enough. Oil prices have already started dropping as production which was stopped during the Pandemic due to low demand is now catching up with the recovered post-Pandemic demand. 

No, Nemo. I don't think you are quite clear on the concept. If you wipe on a "gloss" finish, it's not going to be glossy... at least not until you hand rub a whole lot of coats and build some depth and then rub to a very high degree of smoothness.  Canned "satin" finishes, as marketed by manufacturers, are simply gloss finishes (and all oil finishes are "gloss" finishes) to which a "flattening agent," generally a fine dust of some time, has been added so that the coating dries with a less smooth finish due to all the dirt in it. The purpose of these canned "satin" finishes is to mimic the look of a gloss finish that has had some of the gloss knocked off by hand rubbing with pumice and rottenstone.

I presume you are familiar with spiling plank for hull shapes. (See: 
 
Planking decks is done using the same principles as planking hulls, but, being as decks are more or less flat (discounting the deck shear and camber which at smaller model scales is usually so negligible as not to be a consideration,) it's actually easier. To plank a deck, however, there are several layouts. Primarily, the options are to 1) run the planks of equal width and parallel to the center line or 2) run the planks curved to the shape of the covering boards.  Then you have the options of 1) nibbing or hooking the plank ends at the covering boards (and king plank in one version)  to one another avoid pointed ends, which are to be avoided because of the difficulties they pose in caulking a tight seam. These options will be determined by the vessel you are building. Generally, curved planking dictated by the covering board curves is "fancier" and more labor intensive and would not generally be seen in larger vessels. You will have to research the planking method employed on the vessel you are modeling.  The plan you pictured is, on my screen at least, difficult to see in detail, but it appears that it is a "sprung" plank deck that generally follows the curve of the deck edge at the hull, but forward, where the curve is sharper, accommodates the plank ends by a notched covering board. In full-size practice, the deck planks would be straight and the entire plank bent (or in this case, "edge set") to the curve desired. In modeling scales, the deck planking can be "bent on the flat" with a plank bending iron or clothing steam iron, as in this video: 
 
Once the type of planking is determined, I find it easiest to draw a paper or card template of the deck (or each level of deck, as the case may be) and draw the covering boards, king planks and planks on the template and then trace the template to make patterns for the planks, etc. Generally, whether planking is laid straight or curved, the the planks are generally not tapered. In cases where tapering deck planks is done, they can be spiled in the same manner as hull planking and cut to shape. 
 
The use of a template also allows the deck framing to be drawn on the template so that the "schedule" of plank butts can be accurately represented on the model, making sure that butts fall on frames where there is some "meat" below to which they can be fastened. 
 
Particularly in smaller scales, some modelers find it convenient to use stiff card (or in larger scales even thin plywood) for the deck template and glue thin deck planks directly to the card (or plywood) template and then glue the entire "planked" section of deck to the model. It's a lot easier to work with thin "planks" and covering boards that can be cut to shape with a scissors or knife and glued to the deck template underlayment than to fiddle with scale thickness planks one at a time on the model.  Such "faux" deck planking may be gotten out by shaving long, thin, strips from the edge of a piece of suitable stock with a sharp, properly tuned hand plane. In this fashion, it's easy to produce long curled shavings of any length desired, limited only to the length of the stock you shave them from. These curled shavings can be placed in hot water for a few minutes and then, while still hot, uncurled and laid flat between a couple of flat surfaces (e.g. sheets of window glass) and they will cool and dry flat and uncurled, like veneer, suitable for cutting to shape as planking, covering boards, deck furniture trim, or what have you. The edges of the planks can be blackened with a pencil to simulate the seam stopping, if desired and the decking, once dry on the underlayment can be stained to the finish desired. For those who use "wipe on" finishes, it is far easier to obtain a good wiped-on finish on a flat, unobstructed deck built in this way before it's installed on the model.
 
But, as said, you have to ascertain how the planking was laid on the prototype, or may have been laid on the prototype if that is otherwise unknown, so you know what planking layout you will need to devise. It seems you have a plan which may have that information on it, so copying that deck plan will easily give you the template you need, particularly the covering board notching, and your deck frame spacing.

No, Nemo. I don't think you are quite clear on the concept. If you wipe on a "gloss" finish, it's not going to be glossy... at least not until you hand rub a whole lot of coats and build some depth and then rub to a very high degree of smoothness.  Canned "satin" finishes, as marketed by manufacturers, are simply gloss finishes (and all oil finishes are "gloss" finishes) to which a "flattening agent," generally a fine dust of some time, has been added so that the coating dries with a less smooth finish due to all the dirt in it. The purpose of these canned "satin" finishes is to mimic the look of a gloss finish that has had some of the gloss knocked off by hand rubbing with pumice and rottenstone.

I'm with the economists who explain that people who didn't spend money during the Pandemic lockdown and retailers who slowed production and didn't stock up with product adequate to meet the hugely increased spending now that the Pandemic is easing up occasioned the supply and inflation we are now experiencing. "Just in time" production and inventory warehousing backfired on us this time around. Now we've got big demand and small supply. We don't have the infrastructure to move the products. Whether that be to unload the hulls now anchored offshore waiting for dock space or the truckers and trucks to move it from the docks to the distribution centers to the retail shelves. Hence, inflation. The only  solution is to stop buying stuff right now! You win both ways doing that because 1) you don't pay temporarily inflated prices, and 2) less pressure on the manufacturing and supply chain means less inflationary pressure. Things will be back to normal soon enough. Oil prices have already started dropping as production which was stopped during the Pandemic due to low demand is now catching up with the recovered post-Pandemic demand. 

No, Nemo. I don't think you are quite clear on the concept. If you wipe on a "gloss" finish, it's not going to be glossy... at least not until you hand rub a whole lot of coats and build some depth and then rub to a very high degree of smoothness.  Canned "satin" finishes, as marketed by manufacturers, are simply gloss finishes (and all oil finishes are "gloss" finishes) to which a "flattening agent," generally a fine dust of some time, has been added so that the coating dries with a less smooth finish due to all the dirt in it. The purpose of these canned "satin" finishes is to mimic the look of a gloss finish that has had some of the gloss knocked off by hand rubbing with pumice and rottenstone.

Actually, for a change it is not the Pandemic that is to blame. It's a development that began 15, 20 years ago. One factor was that due to the decreasing amount of snailmail with the advent of email, the postal services had to look for other revenue and increased the parcel prices. The second, transatlantic issue is that about 15 years ago the US postal service decided to discontinue 'surface mail' as an option, offering only the much more expensive air-mail option. If you didn't mind to wait for a couple of months, the 'surface' mail was a quite cost-effective option to get stuff over from the USA. I gather it works both ways.
 
In addition, the EU has tightened the rules for imports this year, basically now you pay import duties (equal to the EU VAT = 19% in most Member States) from the first Euro of value (sales price plus shipping costs!). Previously this was levvied only on values above 40€ ...

I'm with the economists who explain that people who didn't spend money during the Pandemic lockdown and retailers who slowed production and didn't stock up with product adequate to meet the hugely increased spending now that the Pandemic is easing up occasioned the supply and inflation we are now experiencing. "Just in time" production and inventory warehousing backfired on us this time around. Now we've got big demand and small supply. We don't have the infrastructure to move the products. Whether that be to unload the hulls now anchored offshore waiting for dock space or the truckers and trucks to move it from the docks to the distribution centers to the retail shelves. Hence, inflation. The only  solution is to stop buying stuff right now! You win both ways doing that because 1) you don't pay temporarily inflated prices, and 2) less pressure on the manufacturing and supply chain means less inflationary pressure. Things will be back to normal soon enough. Oil prices have already started dropping as production which was stopped during the Pandemic due to low demand is now catching up with the recovered post-Pandemic demand. 

I would expect this to be an issue easily addressed by adding some inside lead ballast to the hull. 

In my experience, resin bonded carbon fiber is one of the nastiest materials I've ever seen worked. When fairing it smooth, the sanding dust is indistinguishable from sanded pencil lead dust, and lots of it. It gets everywhere on everything. You end up looking like you've been working in an old-time coal mine all day. Clean-up is a nightmare.

What Roger and Toms said... You will find that "old 'arn" is by far the best bang for your buck if you can find one in good shape. I have my father's 1950 Craftsman bench top full-size drill press made by King-Seeley. It does all I've ever asked for it, keeping in mind that side-loading a drill press with a Morse taper chuck runs the risk of loosening the taper and having the chuck fall out at speed! (Light work on wood can be done, if you are careful. I use sanding drums on mine without a problem.)
 

 
The same model was also offered in a floor standing model with a longer post.
 

 
When buying a used (or, these days, new...) drill press, be sure to check the quill runout with a dial indicator. The lack of runout is critical if you plan to use the press for accurate work with small bits. Even a small amount of runout will break the small bits. With any sort of stationary machine tool, the heavier the better. Weight equals accuracy, as well as durability. (Note that on the pictured machines, the only bit of plastic on them are the phenolic knobs on the quill lever arms.) 
 
If you want to buy new, I'd take a hard look at the quality offerings from Grizzly. They have decent quality control and warranties. A good drill press should last longer than your grandson. They don't sell those at Home Depot or Harbor Freight.

Roger:
FYI on the Sears molding heads - Carob Cutter makes 38 different shapes of knives for the Sears tool and Woodmaster Tools of Canada will custom make any shape within the size limits of the Sears tool.
 
Ten years ago, and depending on the particular knife, Carob charged me between $18 to $27 for a three knife set.
 
Three years ago, Woodmaster charged me $90 for a custom three knife set. 
 
Carob Cutters: 1 800 745 9895.  Carobcutters.com.  They are in NH.
 
Woodmaster Tools:  1 902 893 1915.  Woodmaster is in Nova Scotia.   

If you look closely at the pictures that Bob posted, there is a round collar just above the chuck.  This collar is threaded onto the spindle.  Unscrewing the collar pushes the chuck off of the Morse tapered spindle.  They used to sell collet chucks that would fit the Morse taper.  These collet chucks had their own threaded collar that screwed onto the threads on the spindle to lock the chuck in Place.  This allowed the drill press to be used for routing.  I have one for my drill press and it works well.
 
The higher end Rockwell Delta drill presses had interchangeable spindles.  One for drilling, another for routing.
 
Actually, I almost never use the drill press for routing.  I much prefer another vintage method:  Sears Craftsman moulding heads mounted on my table saw.  
 
Roger

Since we are talking of old drill presses: 
I've got one, bought new that's 45 years old now.  It was starting to rattle and I began looking for a new one.  The only one similar to it is made by Enco, sold by MSC and sells for $820.00. 
About that time I came across drill press rebuild videos on U-tube and decided to go that route.  Motion Industry is the only source I came across that sold all the various types of bearings necessary for the rebuild. 
All bearings have a universal ID number on them.  I ordered new, high quality, ones as per those numbers and I was in business.  There is plenty of metal in those old drill presses.  Replace the moving parts and you've got, essentially, a new drill press.  I also replaced the solid V belt with a segmented type to minimize vibration. 
All this was done with much less expense than a new Enco and it's more massive/ridgid than any of the other new ones selling for less than the Enco.
I will add that the drill press's original price was $175.00.  The rebuild cost under $200.00.  I could have gotten by much cheaper with less expensive bearings.  It would have been counterproductive but they can be had for as little as $5.00 a piece.  The segmented belt was the most expensive component.

I would expect this to be an issue easily addressed by adding some inside lead ballast to the hull.