Bob Cleek

Better safe than sorry!  Did I ever tell you the story about the starting capacitor dying on the motor on my 1950's 8" Craftsman table saw? The capacitor was a special order item because it was shaped like a pack of cigarettes to fit in the base of the motor instead of the round "cans" used modernly. Until I could source another one, I had to start the motor by wrapping a length of Venetian blind cord around the motor spindle opposite the belt sheave and then flipping the switch and pulling the cord like an outboard motor to get the motor spinning up to speed so it would run. It worked fine, but that was back in the days when I believed I was invulnerable!
 

Better safe than sorry!  Did I ever tell you the story about the starting capacitor dying on the motor on my 1950's 8" Craftsman table saw? The capacitor was a special order item because it was shaped like a pack of cigarettes to fit in the base of the motor instead of the round "cans" used modernly. Until I could source another one, I had to start the motor by wrapping a length of Venetian blind cord around the motor spindle opposite the belt sheave and then flipping the switch and pulling the cord like an outboard motor to get the motor spinning up to speed so it would run. It worked fine, but that was back in the days when I believed I was invulnerable!
 

Better safe than sorry!  Did I ever tell you the story about the starting capacitor dying on the motor on my 1950's 8" Craftsman table saw? The capacitor was a special order item because it was shaped like a pack of cigarettes to fit in the base of the motor instead of the round "cans" used modernly. Until I could source another one, I had to start the motor by wrapping a length of Venetian blind cord around the motor spindle opposite the belt sheave and then flipping the switch and pulling the cord like an outboard motor to get the motor spinning up to speed so it would run. It worked fine, but that was back in the days when I believed I was invulnerable!
 

Over the course of many years, I've heard good things about PSME, but have never sprung for a catalog. Can you comment on their pricing, compared to MicroMark and others? 

Better safe than sorry!  Did I ever tell you the story about the starting capacitor dying on the motor on my 1950's 8" Craftsman table saw? The capacitor was a special order item because it was shaped like a pack of cigarettes to fit in the base of the motor instead of the round "cans" used modernly. Until I could source another one, I had to start the motor by wrapping a length of Venetian blind cord around the motor spindle opposite the belt sheave and then flipping the switch and pulling the cord like an outboard motor to get the motor spinning up to speed so it would run. It worked fine, but that was back in the days when I believed I was invulnerable!
 

Better safe than sorry!  Did I ever tell you the story about the starting capacitor dying on the motor on my 1950's 8" Craftsman table saw? The capacitor was a special order item because it was shaped like a pack of cigarettes to fit in the base of the motor instead of the round "cans" used modernly. Until I could source another one, I had to start the motor by wrapping a length of Venetian blind cord around the motor spindle opposite the belt sheave and then flipping the switch and pulling the cord like an outboard motor to get the motor spinning up to speed so it would run. It worked fine, but that was back in the days when I believed I was invulnerable!
 

Better safe than sorry!  Did I ever tell you the story about the starting capacitor dying on the motor on my 1950's 8" Craftsman table saw? The capacitor was a special order item because it was shaped like a pack of cigarettes to fit in the base of the motor instead of the round "cans" used modernly. Until I could source another one, I had to start the motor by wrapping a length of Venetian blind cord around the motor spindle opposite the belt sheave and then flipping the switch and pulling the cord like an outboard motor to get the motor spinning up to speed so it would run. It worked fine, but that was back in the days when I believed I was invulnerable!
 

I thought it time to post a small update for you. The package containing the new switch for my saw is somewhere in the Province of Ontario now, according to USPS tracking. So, this is really a non-update. I debated the hot-wiring solution suggested. However, the idea of reaching over a running saw to pull the plug held very little appeal. So we wait....

True, but I've never had one break on me like surgical scalpel blades are won't to do. There is an advantage to the heavier gauge metal of hobby knife blades. By the way, surgeons will generally only make a couple of cuts with a scalpel before exchanging it for a new sharp one. Scalpels aren't designed to hold their really sharp edges for any more than about that.
 
It's odd, but nobody's mentioned sharpening hobby knife blades. A fine sharpening stone, or a leather or MDF stropping wheel charged with green polishing abrasive, or even some fine sandpaper, will put a new razor-sharp edge on a hobby knife blade in seconds. I have a very old Arkansas sharpening stone which was designed for sharpening old fashioned straight razors. I use it to keep a sharp edge on my hobby knives. It works fine.

What you want are pin vises like those immediately above that will hold variously sized collets. A pin vise that will hold even down to 1/32 of an inch diameter, will be too big for the small bits in the Rogers drill index and drills. 
 

 
Tell your daughter to shop around. There are two apparently identical items, one by Rogers and the other by Gyros, another drill bit company. You will find them listed for fifty bucks at Fundemonium, a hobby store chain, to thirty bucks in the Micro-Mark catalog, to twenty bucks on Amazon. Buy the twenty buck one and wait until you break a bit, then buy a capsule of ten bits from a reputable bit retailer. (Model Expo sometimes has bits in packages of ten on sale at half price... stock up when you get the chance.) By waiting until a bit wears out or breaks, you'll discover which ones you use the most and need to keep in stock. You'll find other sizes are used much less frequently. Bits are also sold in packages of two. You'll end up in the poorhouse quickly buying them this way. It's far more economical to buy them in packages of ten.

True, but I've never had one break on me like surgical scalpel blades are won't to do. There is an advantage to the heavier gauge metal of hobby knife blades. By the way, surgeons will generally only make a couple of cuts with a scalpel before exchanging it for a new sharp one. Scalpels aren't designed to hold their really sharp edges for any more than about that.
 
It's odd, but nobody's mentioned sharpening hobby knife blades. A fine sharpening stone, or a leather or MDF stropping wheel charged with green polishing abrasive, or even some fine sandpaper, will put a new razor-sharp edge on a hobby knife blade in seconds. I have a very old Arkansas sharpening stone which was designed for sharpening old fashioned straight razors. I use it to keep a sharp edge on my hobby knives. It works fine.

True, but I've never had one break on me like surgical scalpel blades are won't to do. There is an advantage to the heavier gauge metal of hobby knife blades. By the way, surgeons will generally only make a couple of cuts with a scalpel before exchanging it for a new sharp one. Scalpels aren't designed to hold their really sharp edges for any more than about that.
 
It's odd, but nobody's mentioned sharpening hobby knife blades. A fine sharpening stone, or a leather or MDF stropping wheel charged with green polishing abrasive, or even some fine sandpaper, will put a new razor-sharp edge on a hobby knife blade in seconds. I have a very old Arkansas sharpening stone which was designed for sharpening old fashioned straight razors. I use it to keep a sharp edge on my hobby knives. It works fine.

True, but I've never had one break on me like surgical scalpel blades are won't to do. There is an advantage to the heavier gauge metal of hobby knife blades. By the way, surgeons will generally only make a couple of cuts with a scalpel before exchanging it for a new sharp one. Scalpels aren't designed to hold their really sharp edges for any more than about that.
 
It's odd, but nobody's mentioned sharpening hobby knife blades. A fine sharpening stone, or a leather or MDF stropping wheel charged with green polishing abrasive, or even some fine sandpaper, will put a new razor-sharp edge on a hobby knife blade in seconds. I have a very old Arkansas sharpening stone which was designed for sharpening old fashioned straight razors. I use it to keep a sharp edge on my hobby knives. It works fine.

What you want are pin vises like those immediately above that will hold variously sized collets. A pin vise that will hold even down to 1/32 of an inch diameter, will be too big for the small bits in the Rogers drill index and drills. 
 

 
Tell your daughter to shop around. There are two apparently identical items, one by Rogers and the other by Gyros, another drill bit company. You will find them listed for fifty bucks at Fundemonium, a hobby store chain, to thirty bucks in the Micro-Mark catalog, to twenty bucks on Amazon. Buy the twenty buck one and wait until you break a bit, then buy a capsule of ten bits from a reputable bit retailer. (Model Expo sometimes has bits in packages of ten on sale at half price... stock up when you get the chance.) By waiting until a bit wears out or breaks, you'll discover which ones you use the most and need to keep in stock. You'll find other sizes are used much less frequently. Bits are also sold in packages of two. You'll end up in the poorhouse quickly buying them this way. It's far more economical to buy them in packages of ten.

Bob, that is the plan, get a decent set for the money to get started and then stock up on my own as necessary.  My pin vise looks very similar to the silver one above and it has a dual collet.  And I misspoke in my last post, I should have said my pin vise can hold a bit up to 3/32".  I already have four #60 bits (how they got into my hobby tool box I'll never know) and my pin vise handles those just fine.  Thanks again. 

Sharpening works quite well when using the sandpaper tools delivered by proxxon.  I got both needles and blades  sharp enough .  There is also a rotating sharpening stone available by proxxon I usually start with the blades.
Clark 

True, but I've never had one break on me like surgical scalpel blades are won't to do. There is an advantage to the heavier gauge metal of hobby knife blades. By the way, surgeons will generally only make a couple of cuts with a scalpel before exchanging it for a new sharp one. Scalpels aren't designed to hold their really sharp edges for any more than about that.
 
It's odd, but nobody's mentioned sharpening hobby knife blades. A fine sharpening stone, or a leather or MDF stropping wheel charged with green polishing abrasive, or even some fine sandpaper, will put a new razor-sharp edge on a hobby knife blade in seconds. I have a very old Arkansas sharpening stone which was designed for sharpening old fashioned straight razors. I use it to keep a sharp edge on my hobby knives. It works fine.

True, but I've never had one break on me like surgical scalpel blades are won't to do. There is an advantage to the heavier gauge metal of hobby knife blades. By the way, surgeons will generally only make a couple of cuts with a scalpel before exchanging it for a new sharp one. Scalpels aren't designed to hold their really sharp edges for any more than about that.
 
It's odd, but nobody's mentioned sharpening hobby knife blades. A fine sharpening stone, or a leather or MDF stropping wheel charged with green polishing abrasive, or even some fine sandpaper, will put a new razor-sharp edge on a hobby knife blade in seconds. I have a very old Arkansas sharpening stone which was designed for sharpening old fashioned straight razors. I use it to keep a sharp edge on my hobby knives. It works fine.

True, but I've never had one break on me like surgical scalpel blades are won't to do. There is an advantage to the heavier gauge metal of hobby knife blades. By the way, surgeons will generally only make a couple of cuts with a scalpel before exchanging it for a new sharp one. Scalpels aren't designed to hold their really sharp edges for any more than about that.
 
It's odd, but nobody's mentioned sharpening hobby knife blades. A fine sharpening stone, or a leather or MDF stropping wheel charged with green polishing abrasive, or even some fine sandpaper, will put a new razor-sharp edge on a hobby knife blade in seconds. I have a very old Arkansas sharpening stone which was designed for sharpening old fashioned straight razors. I use it to keep a sharp edge on my hobby knives. It works fine.

What you want are pin vises like those immediately above that will hold variously sized collets. A pin vise that will hold even down to 1/32 of an inch diameter, will be too big for the small bits in the Rogers drill index and drills. 
 

 
Tell your daughter to shop around. There are two apparently identical items, one by Rogers and the other by Gyros, another drill bit company. You will find them listed for fifty bucks at Fundemonium, a hobby store chain, to thirty bucks in the Micro-Mark catalog, to twenty bucks on Amazon. Buy the twenty buck one and wait until you break a bit, then buy a capsule of ten bits from a reputable bit retailer. (Model Expo sometimes has bits in packages of ten on sale at half price... stock up when you get the chance.) By waiting until a bit wears out or breaks, you'll discover which ones you use the most and need to keep in stock. You'll find other sizes are used much less frequently. Bits are also sold in packages of two. You'll end up in the poorhouse quickly buying them this way. It's far more economical to buy them in packages of ten.

this is part of my assortment of pin vices.  The round head one is my favorite but is limited to #60 and smaller.  It will not go down to #80. The bright  metal ones have multiple chucks but again will not go down the very small drills. The little brass one will hold #80 - #61.

That is correct. The timber head is the carved indentation at the top. The purpose of the indentation is to stop the hitched rope from sliding up or down the timber head, thereby preventing inadvertent slacking or unhitching. 
On some timber heads the multiple sheaves at the base are actually what would be the lower block of a multi-part tackle.  If there are two separate lines belaying to the the timberhead, more than likely they are lines that would be worked at the same time and cast off together anyway.
 
BTW, the reason I differentiated between a sheave located directly below the belaying pin versus at the base of the timber head is because you would prefer to have your rope pass vertically, or nearly so, to the pin and not cross and therefore chafe against the shell of a fixed block or sheave in the rail.
 
Regards,

The sheave on deck permits a gang of seamen to haul on the line as it extends across the deck. Obviously, only one or two men at a time can pull a line down without a sheave because there isn't room for more to get a hold on the line. 
 
When the line is hauled through a deck sheave or turning block, the line is brought up to the front of pin rail and a half-twist is made in the line and cast over the pin and pulled tight. The remaining bitter end is coiled with the coil held in the left hand. When coiled, the right hand reaches through the middle of the coil and grasps the bitter end of the line where it comes off the pin and a a suitable length of line being made between the coil and the right hand, that length is pulled through the center of the coil and a half-twist made in it, which is thrown over the pin so that the coil is hung neatly from the pin. 
 
When line is let go, it is a simple matter to lift the hitch off the top of the pin and lay the coil on deck, then cast off the first half hitch on the pin, and the line will pay out neatly from the without kinking or fouling.
 
Many books and manuals will depict a method of taking multiple turns around a belaying pin before hitching the line to the pin. While there is a method of taking an initial turn before hitching in cases where it is feared the weight of the load may make it difficult to cast off a single hitch on the pin, in practice, it's not a problem that's often encountered, as a horizontal pull of the fall, (called "sweating the line") will make losening the single hitch easy enough if the size of the line and the size of the pin are properly matched. Unnecessary turns around pins, cleat, cavels, and posts are the hallmarks of sloppy seamanship. All belaying should be done in a uniform fashion, as well, since one crewmember may tie off and another let go. In a blow and a heavy sea in the middle of the night is no place to be trying to untie "black" knots tied by some lubber!

The sheave on deck permits a gang of seamen to haul on the line as it extends across the deck. Obviously, only one or two men at a time can pull a line down without a sheave because there isn't room for more to get a hold on the line. 
 
When the line is hauled through a deck sheave or turning block, the line is brought up to the front of pin rail and a half-twist is made in the line and cast over the pin and pulled tight. The remaining bitter end is coiled with the coil held in the left hand. When coiled, the right hand reaches through the middle of the coil and grasps the bitter end of the line where it comes off the pin and a a suitable length of line being made between the coil and the right hand, that length is pulled through the center of the coil and a half-twist made in it, which is thrown over the pin so that the coil is hung neatly from the pin. 
 
When line is let go, it is a simple matter to lift the hitch off the top of the pin and lay the coil on deck, then cast off the first half hitch on the pin, and the line will pay out neatly from the without kinking or fouling.
 
Many books and manuals will depict a method of taking multiple turns around a belaying pin before hitching the line to the pin. While there is a method of taking an initial turn before hitching in cases where it is feared the weight of the load may make it difficult to cast off a single hitch on the pin, in practice, it's not a problem that's often encountered, as a horizontal pull of the fall, (called "sweating the line") will make losening the single hitch easy enough if the size of the line and the size of the pin are properly matched. Unnecessary turns around pins, cleat, cavels, and posts are the hallmarks of sloppy seamanship. All belaying should be done in a uniform fashion, as well, since one crewmember may tie off and another let go. In a blow and a heavy sea in the middle of the night is no place to be trying to untie "black" knots tied by some lubber!

As a passing comment for the anally-inclined, it might be noted that eyebolts were never installed through metal mast bands. Neither were rings ever welded to metal mast bands. The "eye bolt through the mast band" is a modeler's shortcut, In actual practice, the purpose for a mast band (or boom band) is to provide attachment points to the mast which do not require boring holes in the mast which provide a way for fresh (rain) water to soak into the end-grain of the mast and promote concealed rot that can ultimately cost the loss of a spar under load.  The metal mast band is bedded and clamps tightly around the mast, and holds by that pressure. It is never screwed onto the mast.  Attachment points are formed by welding the "feet" of "U"-shaped metal rod to the band itself, providing a strong two-point attachment to the band, or by welding triangular plates on edge with a hole or holes drilled through the face of the plates to accept shackle pins. Eyebolts anywhere on a mast are not considered good prototype rigging practice.