Bob Cleek

Bob, I bought it direct.  https://www.lmii.com/glue/2957-lmi-yellow-instrument-glue-8-oz.html
There may be a shelf life, but the 8 oz. bottle I bought a year ago still has 6 oz. left.
Maury

Flexibility is of great value because you will evolve and want to change things around. As for the basics:
 
1.  Insulate the whole building, walls and ceiling, and even the floor if you can. Make sure it is weather-tight. You don't want a damp atmosphere to wreak havoc with your iron tools and cause wood to warp and twist. You'll also want a heater and/or air conditioning. (Small portable units for both are now available at reasonable cost.) From the level of your workbench upwards, I'd suggest covering the walls with white melamine-faced pegboard. This is very handy for tool and materials storage and very flexible. Things can be rearranged as you want over time.
 
2. Put a row of wall outlets at the height of your workbenches and some at the baseboard. Also, attach power bars to the front of your workbenches beneath the lip of the benchtop. These are dirt cheap and will provide excellent access for corded power tools. You don't want hand-held power tool cords strung across your workbench working surface. The outlets on the front of the benches prevent this. You want to be able to minimize the number of cords running across the floor, as well. Bench-top stationary tools plug into the higher outlets on the walls behind the benches. Also install a weatherproof outlet outside on the shop wall.  Ideally, there will be a concrete pad outside the entrance. This is valuable shop real estate which is very handy for messy painting jobs, woodworking that generates a lot of sawdust, and similar tasks.
 
3.  Make  sure your workbenches are very solid and have sufficiently strong lips for attaching clamp-on devices. You should have at least one very solidly mounted medium-sized vise you can put all your strength into without the bench moving! A small clamp on vise is also handy. No vise is any stronger than what it's mounted on.  
 
4.  To the greatest extent possible, leave space beneath your benches to permit easy sweeping and vacuuming. Put anything you can on rollers, so it can be moved around to accommodate space needs for various projects and for cleaning (and searching for dropped tiny pieces!)
 
5.  Consider investing in a heavy-duty "Work-mate" woodworking bench. (The larger models with scissor-folding legs.) These are easily stored when not in use and invaluable for many essential tasks.  This can serve for your primary workbench for "heavy" tasks on larger parts and will hold pretty much anything of any shape. YouTube is full of videos on the things that can be done with this "cult status" tool. It's a great space saver in a small shop and a great thing to have even in a large shop. https://www.toolnut.com/black-decker-wm425-workmate425-portable-project-center-and-vise.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=shopping&msclkid=a62653da17071f5406ba0d0e723e17ca&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=*Shopping - High - Broad&utm_term=4578022847964901&utm_content=Catch All
 
  "Advanced, 1-Handed Clamp system with exclusive clutch design for easy clamping. Front jaw swings up for vertical clamping. Folds for easy storage and carrying. Vise jaws angle to hold wedge shapes up to 8 5/16 in. wide. Swivel pegs hold shapes up to 18-3/4."   6.   If circumstances permit, run a coax cable to the shop and install a cable outlet on each wall at workbench height to provide a connection for internet access and a television, if you are so inclined. (I find a TV to be welcome company when doing boring repetitive tasks.) The more "comforts of home" you can provide, the more attractive it will be to be in your shop.   7.  A high-volume electric exhaust fan (as in home bathrooms) where you have the passive ventilator up at the apex of the roof will, in combination with an open window or door, provide good ventilation when working with solvents, paints and adhesives. If you are going to do any metal work involving combustible heavier-than-air gases, be sure you also have provision for passive exhausting at lower levels. A portable fan is always a handy thing to have in a shop.   8.  Buy a lock and don't give a key to anybody else in the family. Significant Others have a genetic predisposition to dumping anything they don't want in the house on top of any horizontal surface in a workshop where it becomes your problem to find a permanent home for it.      

Indeed, it is a constant battle to prevent the admiral filling up the garage with stuff. One needs to be determined, cunning, adaptable and plenty of other words but it can be done.
No insulation for me Bob, the admiral knows it and that prevents her sending stuff my way...

I've never heard of the stuff. What a great idea! Can you please provide information on where to buy it?
 

Flexibility is of great value because you will evolve and want to change things around. As for the basics:
 
1.  Insulate the whole building, walls and ceiling, and even the floor if you can. Make sure it is weather-tight. You don't want a damp atmosphere to wreak havoc with your iron tools and cause wood to warp and twist. You'll also want a heater and/or air conditioning. (Small portable units for both are now available at reasonable cost.) From the level of your workbench upwards, I'd suggest covering the walls with white melamine-faced pegboard. This is very handy for tool and materials storage and very flexible. Things can be rearranged as you want over time.
 
2. Put a row of wall outlets at the height of your workbenches and some at the baseboard. Also, attach power bars to the front of your workbenches beneath the lip of the benchtop. These are dirt cheap and will provide excellent access for corded power tools. You don't want hand-held power tool cords strung across your workbench working surface. The outlets on the front of the benches prevent this. You want to be able to minimize the number of cords running across the floor, as well. Bench-top stationary tools plug into the higher outlets on the walls behind the benches. Also install a weatherproof outlet outside on the shop wall.  Ideally, there will be a concrete pad outside the entrance. This is valuable shop real estate which is very handy for messy painting jobs, woodworking that generates a lot of sawdust, and similar tasks.
 
3.  Make  sure your workbenches are very solid and have sufficiently strong lips for attaching clamp-on devices. You should have at least one very solidly mounted medium-sized vise you can put all your strength into without the bench moving! A small clamp on vise is also handy. No vise is any stronger than what it's mounted on.  
 
4.  To the greatest extent possible, leave space beneath your benches to permit easy sweeping and vacuuming. Put anything you can on rollers, so it can be moved around to accommodate space needs for various projects and for cleaning (and searching for dropped tiny pieces!)
 
5.  Consider investing in a heavy-duty "Work-mate" woodworking bench. (The larger models with scissor-folding legs.) These are easily stored when not in use and invaluable for many essential tasks.  This can serve for your primary workbench for "heavy" tasks on larger parts and will hold pretty much anything of any shape. YouTube is full of videos on the things that can be done with this "cult status" tool. It's a great space saver in a small shop and a great thing to have even in a large shop. https://www.toolnut.com/black-decker-wm425-workmate425-portable-project-center-and-vise.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=shopping&msclkid=a62653da17071f5406ba0d0e723e17ca&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=*Shopping - High - Broad&utm_term=4578022847964901&utm_content=Catch All
 
  "Advanced, 1-Handed Clamp system with exclusive clutch design for easy clamping. Front jaw swings up for vertical clamping. Folds for easy storage and carrying. Vise jaws angle to hold wedge shapes up to 8 5/16 in. wide. Swivel pegs hold shapes up to 18-3/4."   6.   If circumstances permit, run a coax cable to the shop and install a cable outlet on each wall at workbench height to provide a connection for internet access and a television, if you are so inclined. (I find a TV to be welcome company when doing boring repetitive tasks.) The more "comforts of home" you can provide, the more attractive it will be to be in your shop.   7.  A high-volume electric exhaust fan (as in home bathrooms) where you have the passive ventilator up at the apex of the roof will, in combination with an open window or door, provide good ventilation when working with solvents, paints and adhesives. If you are going to do any metal work involving combustible heavier-than-air gases, be sure you also have provision for passive exhausting at lower levels. A portable fan is always a handy thing to have in a shop.   8.  Buy a lock and don't give a key to anybody else in the family. Significant Others have a genetic predisposition to dumping anything they don't want in the house on top of any horizontal surface in a workshop where it becomes your problem to find a permanent home for it.      

Without a picture, I'm left guessing what you are describing, but if by "gluing the bars to the underside of the frames" you mean below the top of the skylight, that would be incorrect. The protective bars on skylights are always set above the glass on the outside, not below the glass inside. 

I use plenty of aluminum oxide abrasive sheet material, too. I haven't had problems with the longer-lasting heavier abrasive belt material, though. They will tend to clog with softer wood species and I've found that on edges of laminations glued with PVA, the glue will soften and clog the abrasive if allowed to heat up excessively when sanding. I've not had any problem with wood clogging when the abrasive is cleaned with a crepe rubber abrasive cleaning block. Keeping the abrasive clean extends its useful life considerably. 
 

Flexibility is of great value because you will evolve and want to change things around. As for the basics:
 
1.  Insulate the whole building, walls and ceiling, and even the floor if you can. Make sure it is weather-tight. You don't want a damp atmosphere to wreak havoc with your iron tools and cause wood to warp and twist. You'll also want a heater and/or air conditioning. (Small portable units for both are now available at reasonable cost.) From the level of your workbench upwards, I'd suggest covering the walls with white melamine-faced pegboard. This is very handy for tool and materials storage and very flexible. Things can be rearranged as you want over time.
 
2. Put a row of wall outlets at the height of your workbenches and some at the baseboard. Also, attach power bars to the front of your workbenches beneath the lip of the benchtop. These are dirt cheap and will provide excellent access for corded power tools. You don't want hand-held power tool cords strung across your workbench working surface. The outlets on the front of the benches prevent this. You want to be able to minimize the number of cords running across the floor, as well. Bench-top stationary tools plug into the higher outlets on the walls behind the benches. Also install a weatherproof outlet outside on the shop wall.  Ideally, there will be a concrete pad outside the entrance. This is valuable shop real estate which is very handy for messy painting jobs, woodworking that generates a lot of sawdust, and similar tasks.
 
3.  Make  sure your workbenches are very solid and have sufficiently strong lips for attaching clamp-on devices. You should have at least one very solidly mounted medium-sized vise you can put all your strength into without the bench moving! A small clamp on vise is also handy. No vise is any stronger than what it's mounted on.  
 
4.  To the greatest extent possible, leave space beneath your benches to permit easy sweeping and vacuuming. Put anything you can on rollers, so it can be moved around to accommodate space needs for various projects and for cleaning (and searching for dropped tiny pieces!)
 
5.  Consider investing in a heavy-duty "Work-mate" woodworking bench. (The larger models with scissor-folding legs.) These are easily stored when not in use and invaluable for many essential tasks.  This can serve for your primary workbench for "heavy" tasks on larger parts and will hold pretty much anything of any shape. YouTube is full of videos on the things that can be done with this "cult status" tool. It's a great space saver in a small shop and a great thing to have even in a large shop. https://www.toolnut.com/black-decker-wm425-workmate425-portable-project-center-and-vise.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=shopping&msclkid=a62653da17071f5406ba0d0e723e17ca&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=*Shopping - High - Broad&utm_term=4578022847964901&utm_content=Catch All
 
  "Advanced, 1-Handed Clamp system with exclusive clutch design for easy clamping. Front jaw swings up for vertical clamping. Folds for easy storage and carrying. Vise jaws angle to hold wedge shapes up to 8 5/16 in. wide. Swivel pegs hold shapes up to 18-3/4."   6.   If circumstances permit, run a coax cable to the shop and install a cable outlet on each wall at workbench height to provide a connection for internet access and a television, if you are so inclined. (I find a TV to be welcome company when doing boring repetitive tasks.) The more "comforts of home" you can provide, the more attractive it will be to be in your shop.   7.  A high-volume electric exhaust fan (as in home bathrooms) where you have the passive ventilator up at the apex of the roof will, in combination with an open window or door, provide good ventilation when working with solvents, paints and adhesives. If you are going to do any metal work involving combustible heavier-than-air gases, be sure you also have provision for passive exhausting at lower levels. A portable fan is always a handy thing to have in a shop.   8.  Buy a lock and don't give a key to anybody else in the family. Significant Others have a genetic predisposition to dumping anything they don't want in the house on top of any horizontal surface in a workshop where it becomes your problem to find a permanent home for it.      

Until somebody cites a contrary authority, I'd say any shroud which might potentially be subject to chafe by a yard can be expected to be wormed, parceled, and served. These are generally the forward shrouds on each mast, at least as high as the highest yard.

I've never heard of the stuff. What a great idea! Can you please provide information on where to buy it?
 

Without a picture, I'm left guessing what you are describing, but if by "gluing the bars to the underside of the frames" you mean below the top of the skylight, that would be incorrect. The protective bars on skylights are always set above the glass on the outside, not below the glass inside. 

I use Luthiers Mercantile Yellow (musical) Instrument glue.  Same as Titebond, but it has a dye that shows up under black light.  Easy to see where you have to wash off excess, spills, etc.  Same price as Titebond.
Maury

For wood to wood I use Titebond, if it is impossible to clamp I sometimes use CA or a combination of CA to spot glue along with Titebond. For metal to wood or metal to metal I will use 5 minute epoxy or solder if practical. I have never have used contact cement in models and would be very leery of it's longevity.

This is a personal thing but I avoid CA.  I would add epoxy for metal to wood gluing if it comes into play on your model.
Allan

Carpenter's glue, medium CA ("super glue"), no contact cement. The first will get you through most of the hull construction.

Here's what I did for the skylight on my Charles W. Morgan. I'm not sure if you would like this idea or not, but it was easy to do and I think it worked pretty well. Instead of metal, I used rigging line pulled taut. I first glued all the lines to one side of the frame using ca glue. I then pulled each one across and held it while the glue set at that end. Another way would be to string all the lines between nails on a board and then glue the frame down on top and trim the lines after the glue set. 
 
My problem for the Morgan was not having anything else that was small enough. The rigging line actually matches the size indicated in the plan which is pretty small. (I don't recall off the top of my head what that size was.) I'm not sure if that's as much of a problem on the Bluenose or not. If the metal pins you have are the right scale then you might very well prefer to use them, but the rigging line sure is easy to attach.
David

Until somebody cites a contrary authority, I'd say any shroud which might potentially be subject to chafe by a yard can be expected to be wormed, parceled, and served. These are generally the forward shrouds on each mast, at least as high as the highest yard.

Cutting a template from steel certainly is an option, but may be rather challenge in itself to do. Unless you use the template as a scraper, some cardboard or a piece of styrene may be sufficient. I would draw the shape for both sides in the correct size on the computer, print it out (checking again for the correct dimensions) and glue it onto the part - then work your way up to the lines.

But read the "fine print." It's got a 220 VAC motor for European mains, not American mains. The stepdown transformer will cost more than the saw!

In comparison to the Byrne's saw, I can't point you to a decent, inexpensive new one.  Beware of sneaking up, at wasteful expense, on lesser machines only to wind up buying the one you wanted in the first place.  It's hard to toss a machine, even after its been replaced - You'll wind up with a saw collection taking up space in your shop.  Byrnes is a good guy.  I wanted a steel top for mine and he made it.  
 
One saw that hasn't been mentioned is the PREAC.  It's decidedly small, but is a very precise, smooth-running little machine.  They are no longer made but show up used on eBay etc.  An after-market, larger motor kit was available for it.  Avoid ones with this modification.  The after-market drive-belt as a lump in it and turns the PREAC into a lumpy running little machine.  For blade-height adjustment,  PREAC offered a screw-jack like gadget but I found it difficult to use.  Vol. 1 of Romero's "Warrior" practicum shows a blade-height adjuster I submitted.  It works very well.   

That micro-milling machine is sweet! It's a beautiful piece of "steam punk" engineering. I love it.

3M "Fine Line" masking tape is an excellent purpose-designed solution. This polypropylene tape guarantees razor sharp edges on curved surfaces. It's a staple in the automotive painting industry. It comes in a variety of widths. Paint the white boot stripe, let dry well, then apply the tape in the width to match your boot line. Spray the black above and the red below, using regular masking tape on top of the fine line tape to mask the top and bottom colors. Remove the fine line and you'll have a perfect white boot line. Sold by all body and fender repair supply houses.
 
https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Fine-Line-Tape-Sand/dp/B00548SEWO/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=3m+fine+line+tape&qid=1590569745&sr=8-6
 
It's a bit pricey, but a roll will last you a long time. As with all masking tape, an opened roll with the cellophane wrapper off of it should never be laid on its side anywhere. It should live in a ziploc plastic bag and never come out except to be used and then immediately replaced. Laying a roll of masking tape down on the edges of the tape will cause it to pick up dust and dirt on the edges, some of which can be practically microscopic. That dust and dirt will guarantee runs under the edge and "bumpy" demarcation lines.

Good one! I've never heard that one before and I've heard a lot of them.
 

Yeah, but was organic, water-based,  and environmentally friendly! Not that nasty old-fashioned stuff made out of tree sap, vegetable oil, and chalk. Doesn't that give you a warm satisfied feeling that you're saving the earth?  

Hi Jim,
 
FWIW,I have had warped 1/4" ply. What I did was draw a straight line on the build board,draw lines 1/2 the ply thickness either side of this line. Glued small wood blocks on these lines and slotted the ply in there then screwed angle brackets to the board at each end of the false keel to keep it vertical. Glued and clamped blocks between the bulkhead slots,next day a perfectly straight keel. No need to faff about wetting ,steaming etc which may not work anyway.
 
Dave