Bob Cleek

I have a Vanda-Lay Dremel-powered drill press. Vanda-Lay makes some interesting tools and their quality is probably second only to Jim Byrnes' Model Machines tools. That said, there is no question that the Byrnes thickness sander is the better tool and the better buy, as well. I see from checking Jim's website that they are not taking orders for machines at the moment because they took time off for summer vacation, but will be back shipping machines in mid-August. I suppose this is why they don't have the prices for the machines listed on their website at the moment! As I recall, the Byrnes sander is about the same, or even less money than the Vanda-Lay thickness sander with the motor. I have to say, owning a Byrnes thickness sander, that it is the "better buy," even if it costs a bit more than the Vanda-Lay. 
 
These sanders require some power to work effectively. I don't doubt that you can power one with a hand drill motor as Vanda-Lay suggests and a few have noted above, but I would think that would put some serious power demands on a hand drill motor, particularly if you are using it for a prolonged period. I also don't think there are any hand drill motors that put out anything like the RPMs that either the Byrnes motor or the power tool motor Vanda-Lay sells for somewhere around $300 do.
 
The fact that the Byrnes' integral motor takes up far less bench space than the Vanda-Lay, regardless of how the Vanda-Lay is powered, is no small consideration, not to mention that the integral motor on the Byrnes machine is far more "elegant" than the cobbled-together power options for the Vanda-Lay.
 
There are two big differences that put the Byrnes head and shoulders over the Vanda-Lay. The first, but not the greatest, difference is that the Byrnes is exceptionally accurate and is easier to adjust. It has an indexed adjustment knob that allow adjustments in increments of .002". The Vanda-Lay may be just as accurate but I expect it is more fiddily to set. The second, and biggest... huge... difference in the two machines is that the Vanda-Lay has a three-inch wide drum. It will only sand wood three inches wide or less. The Byrnes machine has a six-inch wide drum! The Byrnes sander will handle twice the width capacity of the Vanda-Lay and the Byrnes offers the option of loading its six inch wide drum with two different grits of abrasive sheet, each three inches wide, on the six inch drum. This allows you to use half of the drum for coarser sanding and the other for finer sanding, should you desire to do so.
 
So, for the same price, all else considered, the Byrnes is twice the machine in my estimation.  
 
I realize that price is often a serious issue for all of us. All I can say in that regard here is that the difference in price isn't much to get twice the machine in the Byrnes. It can't be said enough that the cheapest tool in the end is often the most expensive one. You could buy any one of the Byrnes Model Machines, use it for ten years, and if you didn't beat it up, probably sell it easily for half or two thirds of what you paid for it. Not so with the Vanda-Lay. If it's a difference of even a couple of hundred bucks, how long will it really take for you to forget the "pain" of that? These days, where I live, at least, that's maybe three half-way decent dinners out with the Missus. If you get the Byrnes, you won't be sorry.
 
 
 

I have a Vanda-Lay Dremel-powered drill press. Vanda-Lay makes some interesting tools and their quality is probably second only to Jim Byrnes' Model Machines tools. That said, there is no question that the Byrnes thickness sander is the better tool and the better buy, as well. I see from checking Jim's website that they are not taking orders for machines at the moment because they took time off for summer vacation, but will be back shipping machines in mid-August. I suppose this is why they don't have the prices for the machines listed on their website at the moment! As I recall, the Byrnes sander is about the same, or even less money than the Vanda-Lay thickness sander with the motor. I have to say, owning a Byrnes thickness sander, that it is the "better buy," even if it costs a bit more than the Vanda-Lay. 
 
These sanders require some power to work effectively. I don't doubt that you can power one with a hand drill motor as Vanda-Lay suggests and a few have noted above, but I would think that would put some serious power demands on a hand drill motor, particularly if you are using it for a prolonged period. I also don't think there are any hand drill motors that put out anything like the RPMs that either the Byrnes motor or the power tool motor Vanda-Lay sells for somewhere around $300 do.
 
The fact that the Byrnes' integral motor takes up far less bench space than the Vanda-Lay, regardless of how the Vanda-Lay is powered, is no small consideration, not to mention that the integral motor on the Byrnes machine is far more "elegant" than the cobbled-together power options for the Vanda-Lay.
 
There are two big differences that put the Byrnes head and shoulders over the Vanda-Lay. The first, but not the greatest, difference is that the Byrnes is exceptionally accurate and is easier to adjust. It has an indexed adjustment knob that allow adjustments in increments of .002". The Vanda-Lay may be just as accurate but I expect it is more fiddily to set. The second, and biggest... huge... difference in the two machines is that the Vanda-Lay has a three-inch wide drum. It will only sand wood three inches wide or less. The Byrnes machine has a six-inch wide drum! The Byrnes sander will handle twice the width capacity of the Vanda-Lay and the Byrnes offers the option of loading its six inch wide drum with two different grits of abrasive sheet, each three inches wide, on the six inch drum. This allows you to use half of the drum for coarser sanding and the other for finer sanding, should you desire to do so.
 
So, for the same price, all else considered, the Byrnes is twice the machine in my estimation.  
 
I realize that price is often a serious issue for all of us. All I can say in that regard here is that the difference in price isn't much to get twice the machine in the Byrnes. It can't be said enough that the cheapest tool in the end is often the most expensive one. You could buy any one of the Byrnes Model Machines, use it for ten years, and if you didn't beat it up, probably sell it easily for half or two thirds of what you paid for it. Not so with the Vanda-Lay. If it's a difference of even a couple of hundred bucks, how long will it really take for you to forget the "pain" of that? These days, where I live, at least, that's maybe three half-way decent dinners out with the Missus. If you get the Byrnes, you won't be sorry.
 
 
 

I have a Vanda-Lay Dremel-powered drill press. Vanda-Lay makes some interesting tools and their quality is probably second only to Jim Byrnes' Model Machines tools. That said, there is no question that the Byrnes thickness sander is the better tool and the better buy, as well. I see from checking Jim's website that they are not taking orders for machines at the moment because they took time off for summer vacation, but will be back shipping machines in mid-August. I suppose this is why they don't have the prices for the machines listed on their website at the moment! As I recall, the Byrnes sander is about the same, or even less money than the Vanda-Lay thickness sander with the motor. I have to say, owning a Byrnes thickness sander, that it is the "better buy," even if it costs a bit more than the Vanda-Lay. 
 
These sanders require some power to work effectively. I don't doubt that you can power one with a hand drill motor as Vanda-Lay suggests and a few have noted above, but I would think that would put some serious power demands on a hand drill motor, particularly if you are using it for a prolonged period. I also don't think there are any hand drill motors that put out anything like the RPMs that either the Byrnes motor or the power tool motor Vanda-Lay sells for somewhere around $300 do.
 
The fact that the Byrnes' integral motor takes up far less bench space than the Vanda-Lay, regardless of how the Vanda-Lay is powered, is no small consideration, not to mention that the integral motor on the Byrnes machine is far more "elegant" than the cobbled-together power options for the Vanda-Lay.
 
There are two big differences that put the Byrnes head and shoulders over the Vanda-Lay. The first, but not the greatest, difference is that the Byrnes is exceptionally accurate and is easier to adjust. It has an indexed adjustment knob that allow adjustments in increments of .002". The Vanda-Lay may be just as accurate but I expect it is more fiddily to set. The second, and biggest... huge... difference in the two machines is that the Vanda-Lay has a three-inch wide drum. It will only sand wood three inches wide or less. The Byrnes machine has a six-inch wide drum! The Byrnes sander will handle twice the width capacity of the Vanda-Lay and the Byrnes offers the option of loading its six inch wide drum with two different grits of abrasive sheet, each three inches wide, on the six inch drum. This allows you to use half of the drum for coarser sanding and the other for finer sanding, should you desire to do so.
 
So, for the same price, all else considered, the Byrnes is twice the machine in my estimation.  
 
I realize that price is often a serious issue for all of us. All I can say in that regard here is that the difference in price isn't much to get twice the machine in the Byrnes. It can't be said enough that the cheapest tool in the end is often the most expensive one. You could buy any one of the Byrnes Model Machines, use it for ten years, and if you didn't beat it up, probably sell it easily for half or two thirds of what you paid for it. Not so with the Vanda-Lay. If it's a difference of even a couple of hundred bucks, how long will it really take for you to forget the "pain" of that? These days, where I live, at least, that's maybe three half-way decent dinners out with the Missus. If you get the Byrnes, you won't be sorry.
 
 
 

I have a Vanda-Lay Dremel-powered drill press. Vanda-Lay makes some interesting tools and their quality is probably second only to Jim Byrnes' Model Machines tools. That said, there is no question that the Byrnes thickness sander is the better tool and the better buy, as well. I see from checking Jim's website that they are not taking orders for machines at the moment because they took time off for summer vacation, but will be back shipping machines in mid-August. I suppose this is why they don't have the prices for the machines listed on their website at the moment! As I recall, the Byrnes sander is about the same, or even less money than the Vanda-Lay thickness sander with the motor. I have to say, owning a Byrnes thickness sander, that it is the "better buy," even if it costs a bit more than the Vanda-Lay. 
 
These sanders require some power to work effectively. I don't doubt that you can power one with a hand drill motor as Vanda-Lay suggests and a few have noted above, but I would think that would put some serious power demands on a hand drill motor, particularly if you are using it for a prolonged period. I also don't think there are any hand drill motors that put out anything like the RPMs that either the Byrnes motor or the power tool motor Vanda-Lay sells for somewhere around $300 do.
 
The fact that the Byrnes' integral motor takes up far less bench space than the Vanda-Lay, regardless of how the Vanda-Lay is powered, is no small consideration, not to mention that the integral motor on the Byrnes machine is far more "elegant" than the cobbled-together power options for the Vanda-Lay.
 
There are two big differences that put the Byrnes head and shoulders over the Vanda-Lay. The first, but not the greatest, difference is that the Byrnes is exceptionally accurate and is easier to adjust. It has an indexed adjustment knob that allow adjustments in increments of .002". The Vanda-Lay may be just as accurate but I expect it is more fiddily to set. The second, and biggest... huge... difference in the two machines is that the Vanda-Lay has a three-inch wide drum. It will only sand wood three inches wide or less. The Byrnes machine has a six-inch wide drum! The Byrnes sander will handle twice the width capacity of the Vanda-Lay and the Byrnes offers the option of loading its six inch wide drum with two different grits of abrasive sheet, each three inches wide, on the six inch drum. This allows you to use half of the drum for coarser sanding and the other for finer sanding, should you desire to do so.
 
So, for the same price, all else considered, the Byrnes is twice the machine in my estimation.  
 
I realize that price is often a serious issue for all of us. All I can say in that regard here is that the difference in price isn't much to get twice the machine in the Byrnes. It can't be said enough that the cheapest tool in the end is often the most expensive one. You could buy any one of the Byrnes Model Machines, use it for ten years, and if you didn't beat it up, probably sell it easily for half or two thirds of what you paid for it. Not so with the Vanda-Lay. If it's a difference of even a couple of hundred bucks, how long will it really take for you to forget the "pain" of that? These days, where I live, at least, that's maybe three half-way decent dinners out with the Missus. If you get the Byrnes, you won't be sorry.
 
 
 

Excellent advice from Allan. If you can afford it, the Byrnes unit is the way to go.

It looks similar to the Jim Byrnes sander.   I cannot speak for the Vanda Lay unit but my Byrnes unit is about 15 years old and runs like the day I bought it.  Thousands of board feet of wood have gone through it.  It is a bit more compact than the Vanda Lay unit with the motor built into the frame. No matter which unit you choose, DO NOT use it without a vacuum hose attached. If you do not have a shop vacuum set up, portable or otherwise, you will need one.  The amount of fine power sawdust created is immense and will cover everything, including you.    Wear a mask!!!!!  
 
Allan

Great finds! Those old MoTorBoaTing magazine Ideal Series plans books are really great. Apparently, Hearst Publishing still owns the copyrights on the Ideal Series. There's something between twenty and thirty volumes to the set, but I've only seen a handful here and there and always grabbed them when I could. Some are full of really classic William and John Atkin designs. Years ago, I tried to find out of Hearst Publishing would allow me to do a "Best of" anthology of plans from the Ideal Series. The jerks wouldn't even reply to my letter. 

Great finds! Those old MoTorBoaTing magazine Ideal Series plans books are really great. Apparently, Hearst Publishing still owns the copyrights on the Ideal Series. There's something between twenty and thirty volumes to the set, but I've only seen a handful here and there and always grabbed them when I could. Some are full of really classic William and John Atkin designs. Years ago, I tried to find out of Hearst Publishing would allow me to do a "Best of" anthology of plans from the Ideal Series. The jerks wouldn't even reply to my letter. 

Bob my Zipper build came from one of the Ideal Series books. I also will buy them when I find them.

Have you tried binder clips? Handy and cheap. Lots of different sizes available.
 

Not me and I've been using it for going on fifty years or so. Of course, a museum professional will tell you it's not "Class I archival" unless it has a hundred-year life span and we can't know that just yet.  What you want to steer clear of is anything that "out-gasses" acidic fumes, especially if your model will be cased (as it should be if you think it is worth keeping.)  There are some very valuable articles in the "Articles Database" and "More" drop-down menus that every modeler would do well to read. These should answer your questions about materials longevity. Some consider obsessing about the archival qualities of modeling materials is a bit "over the top," and maybe it is. Everybody's mileage may differ, but for my money, I see all aspects of ship modeling as an exercise in striving to "do the common thing uncommonly well," or at least as well as I am able to do it. Especially if one is building from scratch, you never know whether your one-of-a-kind model might be of some interest to someone else after you're gone. It doesn't take any more money or effort to use materials that will outlast us, so why not do so? 
 
Nautical Research Guild - Article - Ephemeral Materials in Ship Models (thenrg.org)
Nautical Research Journal - Vol 43 (thenrg.org)
Nautical Research Guild - Article - Specifications for Construction of Exhibition Models of U.S. Naval Vessels (thenrg.org)
Planking Downloads and Tutorials and Videos - Model Ship World™
 

I'd urge you to test sanding the heads off of brass nails before you go inserting them on your workpiece. Wood, being a lot softer, sands much more easily than brass nails. If you want to secure planking, you can drill holes and glue wood or bamboo "dowels" into the holes or, as some do, insert pieces of nylon fishing line into the holes. These options are more than adequately strong.  

It would depend upon the model kit. One should expect that plastic parts would be clean, but it's always possible that they aren't. Handling plastic parts with bare hands prior to painting can certainly leave skin oils that may interfere with a coating. I never worried about it much when I was building plastic models, but, obviously, when in doubt, cleaning the parts is advisable and can't hurt.  A soak and rinse in an appropriate mild cleaning solution which itself is not prone to leaving any sort of residue on the part should be sufficient to remove any oils or grease prior to applying any coating to plastic parts. 

I can't say whether these models were made in Singapore, Vietnam, or Mauritius or not, but they are the sort of product that small ship model factories in countries with developing economies are now turning out for the mass export. Singapore and Vietnam seem to have well-established ship model building industries. Mauritius has been the most prolific exporter of ship models since the last quarter of the 20th Century. Selling ship models for export is apparently a significant segment of the economy of this tiny island nation. Their product quality range runs from the almost crude to the very well-done. It's quite fascinating to see how they build these models on an assembly line basis. It's even more amazing that they can turn a profit doing so! Certainly, the people working in these small factories can't be making much at all. I expect much of the profit goes to the middle men who import the product and resell it around the world, but still and all, the Mauritians must be making enough building them for it to be worth their while to do so.
 
Check out these websites. While we will all lament that we often can't even give away our completed models, there's a whole industry out there selling ship models to an apparently viable customer base. 
 
See: http://customwoodhandicrafts.com/custom-wood-model-ships/ 
       https://hoiancraftships.com/ 
       https://silhoutech.com/
       http://aemodels.com/AE-MODELS-TEAM-PTE-LTD.-Services-Ship-Rig-Models-Rig-model-supplier-Singapore-Model-makers-in-Singapore
       https://bobatoshipmodels.com/ 
       https://historic-marine.com/ 
       https://le-port-ship-model-factory-and-showroom.business.site/ 
       https://mautourco.com/model-ship-building-works-of-art/
 
 
 
 
 

 
 

 
 
 
 
 
https://www.bbc.com/news/av/business-43432017
 

Ditto to the best wishes with the docs! 

Hi guys, hi Johann. Can you please help me. I am trying to find how to do certain knots like this one. Where did you find how to tie them?
 
The Ashley Book of Knots is generally recognized as one of the two encyclopedic works on knots of all kinds. It's been in print forever now and there are many used copies available online as well as new ones. It's a volume I expect anyone who has occasion to work with cordage of any kind to appreciate as an essential reference work. The Ashley Book of Knots: Clifford W. Ashley: 9780385040259: Amazon.com: Books
 
 
 
The Arts of the Sailor by Hervey Garrett Smith is another classic on the subject of rigging and fancy rope work. It's not encyclopedic, but it has much of the basics.
 

 
 
 Another encyclopedic work is the Encyclopedia of Knots and Fancy Rope Work by Hensel and Graumont.  Encyclopedia of Knots and Fancy Rope Work: Hensel, John, Graumont, Raoul: 9780870330216: Amazon.com: Books  Similar to Ashley's above, this volume purports to describe every knot known to man and probably can claim the record for that notwithstanding Ashley's similar claim.  While Ashley's is entertainingly illustrated with many drawings and is done in "coffee table" style, Ashley's organizes its knots by the purposes and trades which commonly employ the particular knots, while "Graumont and Hensel" is organized by type of knot as defined by the knot type's mechanics and so is organized by chapters on knots, bends, hitches, and so on. "Graumont and Hensel" is a much more academic and dry reference work illustrated with black and white photographs. 
 

 
The Rigging of Ships in the Days of the Spritsail Topmast - 1600-1720 by Anderson is another valuable classic which was written specifically for ship modelers. It specifically addresses the period between 1600 and 1720. The Rigging of Ships: in the Days of the Spritsail Topmast, 1600-1720 (Dover Maritime): Anderson, R. C.: 9780486279602: Amazon.com: Books
 

 
Some have found Peterson's Rigging Period Ship Models helpful, although it has been criticized with apparent validity for suffering some inaccuracies. Rigging Period Ship Models: A Step-By-Step Guide to the Intricacies of Square-Rig: PETERSSON, Lennarth: 9781848321021: Amazon.com: Books
 

 
 
There are other more period-specific books on rigging and rope work. These are contemporary works and quite technical. Two of these are available in PDF format for free on the MSW forum website in the drop-down menu at the top of the forum homepage.  Both happen to be called The Art of Rigging. One is by David Steel and the other by George Biddlecomb and are usually  referenced simply as "Steel's" and "Biddlecomb." TheArtOfRigging-Steel.pdf (thenrg.org)    The art of rigging (thenrg.org)
 
Many of these reference books address full-size work and not miniature model-making, but reducing full-size prototypes to scale is what we are about, so it's an easy enough task to tie our knots smaller with smaller rope, or to develop ways of faking it to accommodate our smaller scales. As far as tying small knots, I suggest anybody who's interested in tying rigging knots should spend some time searching YouTube for videos on "surgical instrument knot tying" or "instrument suture tying" and the like. There are many instructional videos, many posted by medical schools, demonstrating how to tie very small knots in very confined spaces using surgical instruments which can easily be purchased for little money on eBay and other sites. These are easily learned basic techniques of great practical value to modelers.
 
For example:
 
 
 

Hi guys, hi Johann. Can you please help me. I am trying to find how to do certain knots like this one. Where did you find how to tie them?
 
The Ashley Book of Knots is generally recognized as one of the two encyclopedic works on knots of all kinds. It's been in print forever now and there are many used copies available online as well as new ones. It's a volume I expect anyone who has occasion to work with cordage of any kind to appreciate as an essential reference work. The Ashley Book of Knots: Clifford W. Ashley: 9780385040259: Amazon.com: Books
 
 
 
The Arts of the Sailor by Hervey Garrett Smith is another classic on the subject of rigging and fancy rope work. It's not encyclopedic, but it has much of the basics.
 

 
 
 Another encyclopedic work is the Encyclopedia of Knots and Fancy Rope Work by Hensel and Graumont.  Encyclopedia of Knots and Fancy Rope Work: Hensel, John, Graumont, Raoul: 9780870330216: Amazon.com: Books  Similar to Ashley's above, this volume purports to describe every knot known to man and probably can claim the record for that notwithstanding Ashley's similar claim.  While Ashley's is entertainingly illustrated with many drawings and is done in "coffee table" style, Ashley's organizes its knots by the purposes and trades which commonly employ the particular knots, while "Graumont and Hensel" is organized by type of knot as defined by the knot type's mechanics and so is organized by chapters on knots, bends, hitches, and so on. "Graumont and Hensel" is a much more academic and dry reference work illustrated with black and white photographs. 
 

 
The Rigging of Ships in the Days of the Spritsail Topmast - 1600-1720 by Anderson is another valuable classic which was written specifically for ship modelers. It specifically addresses the period between 1600 and 1720. The Rigging of Ships: in the Days of the Spritsail Topmast, 1600-1720 (Dover Maritime): Anderson, R. C.: 9780486279602: Amazon.com: Books
 

 
Some have found Peterson's Rigging Period Ship Models helpful, although it has been criticized with apparent validity for suffering some inaccuracies. Rigging Period Ship Models: A Step-By-Step Guide to the Intricacies of Square-Rig: PETERSSON, Lennarth: 9781848321021: Amazon.com: Books
 

 
 
There are other more period-specific books on rigging and rope work. These are contemporary works and quite technical. Two of these are available in PDF format for free on the MSW forum website in the drop-down menu at the top of the forum homepage.  Both happen to be called The Art of Rigging. One is by David Steel and the other by George Biddlecomb and are usually  referenced simply as "Steel's" and "Biddlecomb." TheArtOfRigging-Steel.pdf (thenrg.org)    The art of rigging (thenrg.org)
 
Many of these reference books address full-size work and not miniature model-making, but reducing full-size prototypes to scale is what we are about, so it's an easy enough task to tie our knots smaller with smaller rope, or to develop ways of faking it to accommodate our smaller scales. As far as tying small knots, I suggest anybody who's interested in tying rigging knots should spend some time searching YouTube for videos on "surgical instrument knot tying" or "instrument suture tying" and the like. There are many instructional videos, many posted by medical schools, demonstrating how to tie very small knots in very confined spaces using surgical instruments which can easily be purchased for little money on eBay and other sites. These are easily learned basic techniques of great practical value to modelers.
 
For example:
 
 
 

It was a long while ago, but I a photo of an open sided assembly line decorator model production in Vietnam.
The think the formula is:  a country with a skilled, but under utilized work force, willing to work for much less than their skills are worth because their economy is temporarily stuck on a sandbar.   When the economy recovers or has its initial bloom, this sort of operation probably has to reappear in the next country with the proper factors.
There used to be something named Starving Artists - a large room with a lot of people, each behind their own easel, all copying a master painting projected at the front of the room.    I imagine something similar for mass produced decorator models.  I do not imagine someone just looking to earn enough for their next hit could be a satisfactory worker.
 
Your two have something extra - the designer had an eye for elegant design, the lines have artistic curves.  The wood is not pallet quality crap. It looks like Acer, or Beech or Birch.
 
They are not actually ship models as we would define them here. They are simulacrum of ship models.  Tasteful background decoration.

I can't say whether these models were made in Singapore, Vietnam, or Mauritius or not, but they are the sort of product that small ship model factories in countries with developing economies are now turning out for the mass export. Singapore and Vietnam seem to have well-established ship model building industries. Mauritius has been the most prolific exporter of ship models since the last quarter of the 20th Century. Selling ship models for export is apparently a significant segment of the economy of this tiny island nation. Their product quality range runs from the almost crude to the very well-done. It's quite fascinating to see how they build these models on an assembly line basis. It's even more amazing that they can turn a profit doing so! Certainly, the people working in these small factories can't be making much at all. I expect much of the profit goes to the middle men who import the product and resell it around the world, but still and all, the Mauritians must be making enough building them for it to be worth their while to do so.
 
Check out these websites. While we will all lament that we often can't even give away our completed models, there's a whole industry out there selling ship models to an apparently viable customer base. 
 
See: http://customwoodhandicrafts.com/custom-wood-model-ships/ 
       https://hoiancraftships.com/ 
       https://silhoutech.com/
       http://aemodels.com/AE-MODELS-TEAM-PTE-LTD.-Services-Ship-Rig-Models-Rig-model-supplier-Singapore-Model-makers-in-Singapore
       https://bobatoshipmodels.com/ 
       https://historic-marine.com/ 
       https://le-port-ship-model-factory-and-showroom.business.site/ 
       https://mautourco.com/model-ship-building-works-of-art/
 
 
 
 
 

 
 

 
 
 
 
 
https://www.bbc.com/news/av/business-43432017
 

I make spherical parts from brass using a punzel and a lead plate.

I have not found an adhesive that would bond brass, copper, etc. to a wooden hull with any confidence that the bond would not fail over time.  Even Epoxy seems iffy.  Some joints are secure, some can be easily peeled off.  I tried 3M transfer tape recommended by the guys that build models for the Navy.  The plates easily peeled away from the hull.
 
I finally used add free paper saturated with shellac and glued to the hull with PVA glue.  It worked!
 
Roger

I give you Thistle
 
I would like to start by thanking all of you have who have encouraged me and followed my build over these past two years.

To say that I have learned a lot, from drafting the plans to the actual build, would be an understatement. This was my first true scratch-built model and I am glad that I did it.  I have discovered ways to do things wrong that truly amaze even me.  I have also discovered that the eyes are not as sharp as they once were and the fingers less nimble.  While Thistle will never be in a contest, the soon to be cased Thistle will proudly reside next to my fireplace. 
 
Thank you all again. LJP



 

Well, it certainly looks like you are well on your way to success! Beautifully done, clean, crisp work. It looks perfect, 

Hi guys, hi Johann. Can you please help me. I am trying to find how to do certain knots like this one. Where did you find how to tie them?
 
The Ashley Book of Knots is generally recognized as one of the two encyclopedic works on knots of all kinds. It's been in print forever now and there are many used copies available online as well as new ones. It's a volume I expect anyone who has occasion to work with cordage of any kind to appreciate as an essential reference work. The Ashley Book of Knots: Clifford W. Ashley: 9780385040259: Amazon.com: Books
 
 
 
The Arts of the Sailor by Hervey Garrett Smith is another classic on the subject of rigging and fancy rope work. It's not encyclopedic, but it has much of the basics.
 

 
 
 Another encyclopedic work is the Encyclopedia of Knots and Fancy Rope Work by Hensel and Graumont.  Encyclopedia of Knots and Fancy Rope Work: Hensel, John, Graumont, Raoul: 9780870330216: Amazon.com: Books  Similar to Ashley's above, this volume purports to describe every knot known to man and probably can claim the record for that notwithstanding Ashley's similar claim.  While Ashley's is entertainingly illustrated with many drawings and is done in "coffee table" style, Ashley's organizes its knots by the purposes and trades which commonly employ the particular knots, while "Graumont and Hensel" is organized by type of knot as defined by the knot type's mechanics and so is organized by chapters on knots, bends, hitches, and so on. "Graumont and Hensel" is a much more academic and dry reference work illustrated with black and white photographs. 
 

 
The Rigging of Ships in the Days of the Spritsail Topmast - 1600-1720 by Anderson is another valuable classic which was written specifically for ship modelers. It specifically addresses the period between 1600 and 1720. The Rigging of Ships: in the Days of the Spritsail Topmast, 1600-1720 (Dover Maritime): Anderson, R. C.: 9780486279602: Amazon.com: Books
 

 
Some have found Peterson's Rigging Period Ship Models helpful, although it has been criticized with apparent validity for suffering some inaccuracies. Rigging Period Ship Models: A Step-By-Step Guide to the Intricacies of Square-Rig: PETERSSON, Lennarth: 9781848321021: Amazon.com: Books
 

 
 
There are other more period-specific books on rigging and rope work. These are contemporary works and quite technical. Two of these are available in PDF format for free on the MSW forum website in the drop-down menu at the top of the forum homepage.  Both happen to be called The Art of Rigging. One is by David Steel and the other by George Biddlecomb and are usually  referenced simply as "Steel's" and "Biddlecomb." TheArtOfRigging-Steel.pdf (thenrg.org)    The art of rigging (thenrg.org)
 
Many of these reference books address full-size work and not miniature model-making, but reducing full-size prototypes to scale is what we are about, so it's an easy enough task to tie our knots smaller with smaller rope, or to develop ways of faking it to accommodate our smaller scales. As far as tying small knots, I suggest anybody who's interested in tying rigging knots should spend some time searching YouTube for videos on "surgical instrument knot tying" or "instrument suture tying" and the like. There are many instructional videos, many posted by medical schools, demonstrating how to tie very small knots in very confined spaces using surgical instruments which can easily be purchased for little money on eBay and other sites. These are easily learned basic techniques of great practical value to modelers.
 
For example:
 
 
 

If it's bees' wax, I'd think it would not be  a good idea. Bees' wax tends to be acidic and over time could cause the thread to become weakened.
 
Wax of any kind on rigging thread can attract and hold dust. 
 
At "scale viewing distances," there's no observable shine to tarred rigging.  If a coating is required on rigging thread, clear shellac is a good option and is invisible once dry.