Bob Cleek

I've sure someone will respond with copies they can share.  Better it was the plans pages and not the finished, fully-rigged model, as has been the case on repeated occasions. In the meantime, write 100 times, "Cats and ship models don't mix." 
 
Consider losing the cats and getting a dog.  

What scale are you working in? Degaussing cables were generally at the waterline. Some went down the entire length of the vessel and others only part way. Some were ever moved around from time to time. Was that 240mm cable 240mm in diameter or circumference? There's a big difference between a nine inch diameter and a three inch diameter. That's a lotta copper either way! 

I've sure someone will respond with copies they can share.  Better it was the plans pages and not the finished, fully-rigged model, as has been the case on repeated occasions. In the meantime, write 100 times, "Cats and ship models don't mix." 
 
Consider losing the cats and getting a dog.  

It's 1/200, the anatomy of ships plans clearly shows the position and whole run around the hull. Ill post some pictures on this thread of some samples in the next few days and get some consensus 

The Russians used 240mm cables, but electromagnets were also used to degausse ships.
 
Jim

Good question. I don't know. That said, there were and are many degaussing cable arrangements and many more of the related "deperming" system which serves the same purpose. It is quite likely that a variety of cable arrangements would vary from ship to ship and from location to location. (Of course, the "pole" of a ship's induced magnetic field has to be reversed as the ship travels from one hemisphere to the other in order to achieve the magnetic neutrality necessary to defeat detection by magnetic mines and so the configuration of the degaussing cables may have changed from hemisphere to hemisphere, as well. See: Degaussing — National Museum of the Royal New Zealand Navy (navymuseum.co.nz)
 
I'm going to guess and say that the cable was probably fairly substantial, but it's size and physical positioning would vary from vessel to vessel. 

If you are getting a gloss finish from the shellac, you are putting too much shellac on. Just apply a single coat of thinned shellac (out of the can if premixed, 2 pound cut if not) and let the line soak it up. If that is allowed to dry without excessive shellac build-up, the clear shellac should be invisible. If you put another coat on top of the thinned shellac, you will start seeing a gloss effect. You should be able to remove most, if not all of the gloss shine by wiping the shellacked line down with an alcohol-soaked piece of cloth or a cotton ball. 

WYOMING went into her case yesterday and is now on display in the gallery as you come in the door.  She, OREGON, PERRY, and the MORGAN cross section will be going to the New London event this weekend.  

Perhaps you can be more specific. I don't think there are many "sets of mini wood saws" available in the marketplace. Also, are you referring to hand saws or powered saws? Which model are you building? Your answers to these questions will get you responses that are more accurately tailored to your inquiry. Generally, it's not wise to buy "sets" of any tools because they load these "sets" up with a lot of stuff you will never use. Follow the maxim: "Only buy a tool when you need it and then buy the best you can afford." The most expensive tool is the one you have to buy twice!
 
Much of the cutting done in modeling is done with scalpels and "hobby blades" which are readily available on hobby shops and on line. X-Acto and similar brands offer small saw blades that will fit their holders. A basic set runs around $25. In this case, the below "set" is an exception to the "avoid sets" rule. You probably will never use half the blades provided, but the price is worth it for the handles alone. There's a wide selection of bladees availabel separately.  https://www.amazon.com/s?k=xacto+x5282+basic+knife+set&adgrpid=1333708177723075&hvadid=83356927325719&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=43893&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvtargid=kwd-83357125204862%3Aloc-190&hydadcr=24627_10488567&tag=mh0b-20&ref=pd_sl_1gynreog08_e (There are Chinese copies all over the place that look exactly like the X-Acto and Excel brands, but are pure junk. Don't buy them!)
 

 
Another brand of hobby knife saw set showing the sort of saw blades available for the X-Acto sets. $11.00. https://www.amazon.com/LitKiwi-Modeling-Hacksaw-Handcrafted-Cutting/dp/B0BRKR9KQP/ref=sr_1_44?keywords=jewelers%2Bsaw%2Bkit&qid=1682128554&sr=8-44&th=1
 

 
Another option is a classic adjustable jeweler's saw, which will hold a variety of different sized blades suitable for cutting wood, plastics, and metals. You want the adjustable frame so you can reuse broken blades that are no longer full length. (And you will break blades!) Buy a decent quality one. There are cheaper ones that aren't worth the money and hugely expensive ones that IMHO are overkill unless you are a professional jeweler. See: https://www.ottofrei.com/products/classic-jewelers-adjustable-sawframes (Note that Otto Frei jeweler's supply house is an excellent tool source.)  Buy a selection of saw blades while you are at it: https://www.ottofrei.com/collections/saw-blades
 
For example, this looks like an acceptable starter set: https://www.amazon.com/Megacast-Professional-Jewelers-Blades-Wooden/dp/B089XSPBJL/ref=pd_vtp_h_pd_vtp_h_sccl_5/139-6146405-0707815?pd_rd_w=5bdn2&content-id=amzn1.sym.a5610dee-0db9-4ad9-a7a9-14285a430f83&pf_rd_p=a5610dee-0db9-4ad9-a7a9-14285a430f83&pf_rd_r=S6XHMSDNABQSEVP6TC18&pd_rd_wg=rM4x6&pd_rd_r=cd18a20a-775c-4dfe-9bea-d3a7d7d282bc&pd_rd_i=B089XSPBJL&psc=1 (The wooden piece clamps to the edge of your workbench and is used to saw shapes from thin flat sheet metal or whatever other small piece you need to hold to saw. It will save you from sawing up the edge of your workbench!)
 

 
These saws pretty much cover the "mini" handsaw selection for modeling. There are more options for power saws, but for small, fine work, you will probably opt for handsaws anyway. You can spend hundreds of dollars on powered scroll saws, a Byrnes Model Machines table saw and attachments, and so on.
 
Happy sawing!

She was transferred to a wheeled cradle which was pushed down a large launching ramp by a large eighteen-wheeler tractor connected by a rigid push bar.  The cradle failed on the starboard side.
 
 

She was transferred to a wheeled cradle which was pushed down a large launching ramp by a large eighteen-wheeler tractor connected by a rigid push bar.  The cradle failed on the starboard side.
 
 

Perhaps you can be more specific. I don't think there are many "sets of mini wood saws" available in the marketplace. Also, are you referring to hand saws or powered saws? Which model are you building? Your answers to these questions will get you responses that are more accurately tailored to your inquiry. Generally, it's not wise to buy "sets" of any tools because they load these "sets" up with a lot of stuff you will never use. Follow the maxim: "Only buy a tool when you need it and then buy the best you can afford." The most expensive tool is the one you have to buy twice!
 
Much of the cutting done in modeling is done with scalpels and "hobby blades" which are readily available on hobby shops and on line. X-Acto and similar brands offer small saw blades that will fit their holders. A basic set runs around $25. In this case, the below "set" is an exception to the "avoid sets" rule. You probably will never use half the blades provided, but the price is worth it for the handles alone. There's a wide selection of bladees availabel separately.  https://www.amazon.com/s?k=xacto+x5282+basic+knife+set&adgrpid=1333708177723075&hvadid=83356927325719&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=43893&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvtargid=kwd-83357125204862%3Aloc-190&hydadcr=24627_10488567&tag=mh0b-20&ref=pd_sl_1gynreog08_e (There are Chinese copies all over the place that look exactly like the X-Acto and Excel brands, but are pure junk. Don't buy them!)
 

 
Another brand of hobby knife saw set showing the sort of saw blades available for the X-Acto sets. $11.00. https://www.amazon.com/LitKiwi-Modeling-Hacksaw-Handcrafted-Cutting/dp/B0BRKR9KQP/ref=sr_1_44?keywords=jewelers%2Bsaw%2Bkit&qid=1682128554&sr=8-44&th=1
 

 
Another option is a classic adjustable jeweler's saw, which will hold a variety of different sized blades suitable for cutting wood, plastics, and metals. You want the adjustable frame so you can reuse broken blades that are no longer full length. (And you will break blades!) Buy a decent quality one. There are cheaper ones that aren't worth the money and hugely expensive ones that IMHO are overkill unless you are a professional jeweler. See: https://www.ottofrei.com/products/classic-jewelers-adjustable-sawframes (Note that Otto Frei jeweler's supply house is an excellent tool source.)  Buy a selection of saw blades while you are at it: https://www.ottofrei.com/collections/saw-blades
 
For example, this looks like an acceptable starter set: https://www.amazon.com/Megacast-Professional-Jewelers-Blades-Wooden/dp/B089XSPBJL/ref=pd_vtp_h_pd_vtp_h_sccl_5/139-6146405-0707815?pd_rd_w=5bdn2&content-id=amzn1.sym.a5610dee-0db9-4ad9-a7a9-14285a430f83&pf_rd_p=a5610dee-0db9-4ad9-a7a9-14285a430f83&pf_rd_r=S6XHMSDNABQSEVP6TC18&pd_rd_wg=rM4x6&pd_rd_r=cd18a20a-775c-4dfe-9bea-d3a7d7d282bc&pd_rd_i=B089XSPBJL&psc=1 (The wooden piece clamps to the edge of your workbench and is used to saw shapes from thin flat sheet metal or whatever other small piece you need to hold to saw. It will save you from sawing up the edge of your workbench!)
 

 
These saws pretty much cover the "mini" handsaw selection for modeling. There are more options for power saws, but for small, fine work, you will probably opt for handsaws anyway. You can spend hundreds of dollars on powered scroll saws, a Byrnes Model Machines table saw and attachments, and so on.
 
Happy sawing!

She was transferred to a wheeled cradle which was pushed down a large launching ramp by a large eighteen-wheeler tractor connected by a rigid push bar.  The cradle failed on the starboard side.
 
 

She was transferred to a wheeled cradle which was pushed down a large launching ramp by a large eighteen-wheeler tractor connected by a rigid push bar.  The cradle failed on the starboard side.
 
 

She was transferred to a wheeled cradle which was pushed down a large launching ramp by a large eighteen-wheeler tractor connected by a rigid push bar.  The cradle failed on the starboard side.
 
 

She was transferred to a wheeled cradle which was pushed down a large launching ramp by a large eighteen-wheeler tractor connected by a rigid push bar.  The cradle failed on the starboard side.
 
 

She was transferred to a wheeled cradle which was pushed down a large launching ramp by a large eighteen-wheeler tractor connected by a rigid push bar.  The cradle failed on the starboard side.
 
 

She was transferred to a wheeled cradle which was pushed down a large launching ramp by a large eighteen-wheeler tractor connected by a rigid push bar.  The cradle failed on the starboard side.
 
 

Ah yes, "two peoples divided by a common language" as they say.  
 
In Cangarda's case, it's entirely proper to allow her bronze to acquire a patina. Hers seems to have turned a verdigris green. Often, the bronze weathers to a "tarnished penny brown," but i suppose the verdigris is a function of the amount of tin in the alloy. Her iron fittings require chipping and repainting. (The modern zinc paint undercoaotings would save a lot of work in this regard!) I did also note that there's a bolt missing from the steam line union on the anchor windlass. That definitely requires replacement before steam pressure is put to that union! On a "gold plater" of Cangarda's quality the original blocks on the anchor crane tackle would have been internally bronze-strapped varnished teak or lignam vitae-cheeked or all cast bronze open-web-cheeked. There wouldn't have been any stainless on her as built in 1901. It's this old sailor's "bosun's eye" that catches such details.  
 

 
 

It is a personal source of irritation, but asking about what is the "best" of anything much outside a bar or chatroom is pointless.  It is of no use here.  Asking about what is "excellent" or "necessary" or "a good value" will yield valuable information - if the subject is relevant to this site's purpose.
 
I am going to make propositions rather than suggestions given the scant clues offered by the OP:
 
The nature of the inquiry suggests that the OP is a beginner and is building a kit or intends to.  The question does not say what is to be cut.  
Remembering back to my Yellow Box, solid hull days, even with the high degree of semi scratch fabrication there was little that required more that the occasional use of a narrow blade razor saw.
From what I can see of it, neither old style nor recent laser cut kits require much sawing.  Any sort of "saw kit" will be mostly bench clutter.  The $12 plastic sprue that @Bob Cleek has found for us has no downside even if nothing comes up that requires its use.
I think that serious saw use comes with scratch.  Then, the jobs will dictate the sort of saw needed.   With that narrow class, asking here about which saws in it are junk and which are value may save money and frustration.
 
 
I agree with @von_bednar that the Japanese mini pull cut saws are easier for me to cross cut   ~1/4" thick stock or similar.  Many of the saw models have no back support -a pull cut does not need it - but the push reset needs care less the blade be kinked  -  There are choices in tooth length and set.  Wide thick stock being cut with a saw with little or no set saves on kerf, but the wood wants to seize the blade. Usually, with a crosscut, kerf  is not a factor worth factoring in.
 

I like scalpels personally.
 
I have an Excel brand razor saw that is on its 2nd blade in 20 years.
 
I have a couple of coping saws for heavier work.
 
I just replaced the blades in both of them.
 
It should be noted that I added the saw set, that Bob mentioned, to my cart.
 
Many people like scroll saws for cutting out small parts.
 
Jigsaws are good for cutting out larger parts.

I like the Zona brand razor saws.  These are miniature “Backsaws” where a very thin blade is reinforced with a thicker back piece.  These are usually available in sets with different blade tooth counts; the coarsest cuts wood and the finest brass tubing and structural shapes.  Like the X-Acto  products above, the different blades fit into a common handle.  They are semi-disposable.  While they last a long time they would be very hard to sharpen.
 
Roger

She's hanging an anchor light in the above picture, but in the below much earlier picture she appears to be carrying a steaming light on the foremast. I presume this was a permanently mounted electric light. Note that on the flying bridge she is carrying a large electric spotlight.
 

Perhaps you can be more specific. I don't think there are many "sets of mini wood saws" available in the marketplace. Also, are you referring to hand saws or powered saws? Which model are you building? Your answers to these questions will get you responses that are more accurately tailored to your inquiry. Generally, it's not wise to buy "sets" of any tools because they load these "sets" up with a lot of stuff you will never use. Follow the maxim: "Only buy a tool when you need it and then buy the best you can afford." The most expensive tool is the one you have to buy twice!
 
Much of the cutting done in modeling is done with scalpels and "hobby blades" which are readily available on hobby shops and on line. X-Acto and similar brands offer small saw blades that will fit their holders. A basic set runs around $25. In this case, the below "set" is an exception to the "avoid sets" rule. You probably will never use half the blades provided, but the price is worth it for the handles alone. There's a wide selection of bladees availabel separately.  https://www.amazon.com/s?k=xacto+x5282+basic+knife+set&adgrpid=1333708177723075&hvadid=83356927325719&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=43893&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvtargid=kwd-83357125204862%3Aloc-190&hydadcr=24627_10488567&tag=mh0b-20&ref=pd_sl_1gynreog08_e (There are Chinese copies all over the place that look exactly like the X-Acto and Excel brands, but are pure junk. Don't buy them!)
 

 
Another brand of hobby knife saw set showing the sort of saw blades available for the X-Acto sets. $11.00. https://www.amazon.com/LitKiwi-Modeling-Hacksaw-Handcrafted-Cutting/dp/B0BRKR9KQP/ref=sr_1_44?keywords=jewelers%2Bsaw%2Bkit&qid=1682128554&sr=8-44&th=1
 

 
Another option is a classic adjustable jeweler's saw, which will hold a variety of different sized blades suitable for cutting wood, plastics, and metals. You want the adjustable frame so you can reuse broken blades that are no longer full length. (And you will break blades!) Buy a decent quality one. There are cheaper ones that aren't worth the money and hugely expensive ones that IMHO are overkill unless you are a professional jeweler. See: https://www.ottofrei.com/products/classic-jewelers-adjustable-sawframes (Note that Otto Frei jeweler's supply house is an excellent tool source.)  Buy a selection of saw blades while you are at it: https://www.ottofrei.com/collections/saw-blades
 
For example, this looks like an acceptable starter set: https://www.amazon.com/Megacast-Professional-Jewelers-Blades-Wooden/dp/B089XSPBJL/ref=pd_vtp_h_pd_vtp_h_sccl_5/139-6146405-0707815?pd_rd_w=5bdn2&content-id=amzn1.sym.a5610dee-0db9-4ad9-a7a9-14285a430f83&pf_rd_p=a5610dee-0db9-4ad9-a7a9-14285a430f83&pf_rd_r=S6XHMSDNABQSEVP6TC18&pd_rd_wg=rM4x6&pd_rd_r=cd18a20a-775c-4dfe-9bea-d3a7d7d282bc&pd_rd_i=B089XSPBJL&psc=1 (The wooden piece clamps to the edge of your workbench and is used to saw shapes from thin flat sheet metal or whatever other small piece you need to hold to saw. It will save you from sawing up the edge of your workbench!)
 

 
These saws pretty much cover the "mini" handsaw selection for modeling. There are more options for power saws, but for small, fine work, you will probably opt for handsaws anyway. You can spend hundreds of dollars on powered scroll saws, a Byrnes Model Machines table saw and attachments, and so on.
 
Happy sawing!

Ah yes, "two peoples divided by a common language" as they say.  
 
In Cangarda's case, it's entirely proper to allow her bronze to acquire a patina. Hers seems to have turned a verdigris green. Often, the bronze weathers to a "tarnished penny brown," but i suppose the verdigris is a function of the amount of tin in the alloy. Her iron fittings require chipping and repainting. (The modern zinc paint undercoaotings would save a lot of work in this regard!) I did also note that there's a bolt missing from the steam line union on the anchor windlass. That definitely requires replacement before steam pressure is put to that union! On a "gold plater" of Cangarda's quality the original blocks on the anchor crane tackle would have been internally bronze-strapped varnished teak or lignam vitae-cheeked or all cast bronze open-web-cheeked. There wouldn't have been any stainless on her as built in 1901. It's this old sailor's "bosun's eye" that catches such details.