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md1400cs

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Everything posted by md1400cs

  1. Hi John, Just catching up. Whoa beautiful updates, your masts and spars are perfect. Scaling looks awesome. Sorry to read about extended family member's illness, nice that he's now ok (:-) Regards as always, Michael
  2. Hi Mike, Found your build log and spent some time here. Excellently detailed work. I'll drop in more often. Very informative log as well. I have always been so impressed with builders on the scratch side. I will prob. not reach that level of skill (;-) Regards, Michael
  3. GLakie, Just a thought, and far be it for me to even offer an opinion regarding tools, however; When I first discovered about milling bits and our hobby I thought that I should buy Proxxon bits. Geezzz are they expensive, or what? After further research I learned that the Proxxon quality bits are also applicable for metal work. Work for very light wood work, as in our hobby, the Proxxon's would have been overkill IMO. So eBay it was. As you can see in my first attempt with this type of work the bits did a "perfect" job of grooving. I think that I paid around $20 USD for the five diff. size bits. Michael
  4. Glakie, Thanks for your kind words. Here is what I used. Bought a set of five diff. sizes from a vendor on eBay. They have worked out very nicely as I'm learning.
  5. Hi Mates, Thanks for all of your kind remarks, very nurturing indeed. This post will be long winded, but I hope that my frustrations will help some others; I having learned so much from so many of you. Well another attempt at that pesky knighthead. This time I tried to do just a lamination without any grooves, and after sanding and shaping would again try my luck with the Proxxon. Followed Nigel’s excellent “how to” lesson, and started feeling good the grooves looked to be taking their proper shapes. The front side looked “ok”. Flipped it over and the grooves were all out of alignment. Hmm, then realized that my pre-shaping resulted in the piece being off square. This, off course resulted in another failure with the innocently abused Proxxon. So now feeling more informed, cut a fresh piece of wood and had the Proxxon go back to work with newly gained operator knowledge. Well “I’ll be” looked as if I knew what I was doing for a change. After subsequent sanding and adjusting to fit in the weather-deck hole I was able to adjust the outer shape to better match the grooves. So, I’m relieved and have learned so much with this small bit, but also gained needed confidence, after four attempts Oh My!!. Now onto the others…..pieces of cake -- ha ha. Cheers, Michael
  6. Ferit, Never a blunder. The blunder was mine by not using the full potential of my tools that resulted in a compromise. To answer your question, if I use that piece, it will look just like that (:-( But I will try one more time to make a new one using Nigel's advice on how to use the Proxxon with special drill bits. Wish me luck lol Regards, Michael
  7. Ferit, Nice of you to still drop by, very kind. I think that you are asking about the square opening next to the sheaves? Yes that will be framed with four pieces cut at 45º angles, along with small studs and then the ladder will be re-installed. Thanks for your kind words, but you have it in reverse; It is me that has learned so much from you watching your amazing levels of details on your Berlin (:-) PS: I (many of us) hope to see your Berlin come back to life here at MSW !! Cheers, Michael
  8. Hi Mates, Thanks for your supportive comments, very nice of you to add your thoughts. They are always such a source of encouragement. So Plan B on the sheaves; the laminating idea, here are a few pics. PS: without a sanding wheel/belt this would have never turned out. Looks OK, though it sits a bit too high on the deck, needs to be lowered a bit, along with needing two more pulleys, and hardware. PS 2: Plan C is coming up (last pic). I was so completely annoyed at myself for not correctly using the Proxxon MF70, that I fashioned a third sheave, and will give it another go. I will follow Nigel’s sage advice and try this again. Again Nigel, we know that you are so busy, thanks for taking the time to give instructions on the proper procedure. LOL. Cheers, Michael
  9. Daniel, With apologies I DON'T know how I could have missed this amazing build and superbly informative log. I won't repeat the hundreds of "OH My's" I'll will visit from the start taking my time. Amazing that it started as a plastic kit. And to think that you have also populated the ship with historically excellent shimates yes--OH MY, Regards, MIchael
  10. Frank, Catching up--Impressive work. Nice details. Your weather deck stern railings, and your excellent rotating cannon look great. Getting there!! Regards, Michael
  11. Frank, George, Thanks guys..Yes things do seem much better all of a sudden. Hmmm chocolate Malt my all-time favorite comfort food
  12. Hi Mates, Well the large block sheave (knighthead) is not working out too well with the Proxxon; certainly operator malfunction. You might note that on the second pic. left side, that the first hole has burn marks (used slowest drill speed) Also, when I tried to drill the second hole, it was much too close to the first one. My error…grrrr Then tried a scrap; drilled three holes, but on the back side they did not burrow straight down. Also I think that Walnut is probably too dense for the intended part. And there should be four pulley grooves, well that’s not going to happen. My skill set is wanting. So I’m going to plan B and will follow Mark’s (marktiedens) idea of laminating some strips to form the block. I’ll play with that and see how it comes out, Mark's looks very good. Not ready to walk-the-plank, but might be time for a Sunday single malt ha ha…. Cheers, Michael
  13. Mark, Thanks, yes it was a test of will. As it is Corel's effort with this kit is so already way off, but having fun challenging my risks.. I may eventually actually finish her. Not a daily ritual.... Regards, Michael
  14. Mark, Yes, excellent platforms. Great job, and certainly worth the effort and time. Michael
  15. Hi Mates, Thanks for your kind comments, likes, and suggestions. Always so appreciated. Minor, well no, major relief that the “simple” plank exchange worked out as well as it did. I used a small hammer; along with two knife tools to pre groove the planks so that the adjoining ones would be out of harm’s way as I tried to remove the bits. I thought of using an Exacto knife to run along the plank, but felt that there would be a risk of also grooving into adjoining planks, as well as not cutting deep enough. You may note that one of those plank bits gave me a hard time. Must have been where all the glue had secured it to the under deck. That bit was nerve wracking. Now onto re-framing the larger (and more correct) deck opening, then making the knightheads. So NO cigar but much closer looking to the 1/1 from what it was. Again thanks so much for dropping by, and Peter cheers!! Regards, Michael
  16. Peter. Brilliant idea thanks. Then it occurred to me that I had absolutely none of that planking left-over. In fact I remember being so happy that the last plank for the outer hull, was in fact the last piece that I had left. Then, I looked through my big zip-lock bag (we never throw anything away, do we?), and I found one very small piece left over. J see pic…(the other one a bit aft is 1mm smaller) So, will do as you suggested. As well as squaring off the opening, which will bring it closed to the other two knightheads, and it will also remove the deck scars around the opening. The newly moved large knighthead will cover the inner scared plank. My big trepidation is removing part of that outer deck plank, If I mess it up - Hmmmm then what? The plank will end up being too short, but will get visually lost when all is buttoned up. Again thanks for your excellent advice, and thanks for your very kind comment as well. Mark, I had thought of your idea as well. thanks for posting Cheers, Michael
  17. Hi Mates, Minor update - again doing some “fixing” of previous errors J PICS 1,2,3 are my initial knightheads, railing around entry down into upper gun deck, and incorrect weather deck gratings. Back then I was, well confused ha ha.. PIC 4 is how it should be - hmmm PIC 5 are the Corel drawings, which added to the errors. To compound all of this, when I pulled out the old knightheads I then decided to actually cutout the deck in order insert the new pieces down into the upper gun deck. Also to hide the old glue and nail holes, I cut through those same places. This left the new pieces in still the wrong locations. Oh well. Also you will note that the two tandem knightheads (the one the left) is larger. I think that I was using a too small replacement piece, so increased the hole sizes. Now I need some advice, if you could offer some? I would like to remove that second bit of framing trim from the upper gun deck entry, and then move that large knighthead closer in to where it should be). BUT that will leave an obvious big scar if I re-plank that first hole. There is already a scar from that removed railing grrr. Could I put something over the hole to cover? Would a “tarp” be appropriate there? Any suggestions will be appreciated. Does anyone have any ideas? I will use the Proxxon to cut the pulley grooves. Again thanks so much for dropping by… Cheers Michael
  18. Frank, Gorgeous work...I'm repeating myself, as well as all others whom are following along! Michael
  19. Nigel, Thanks for also dropping by. Your comments are also much appreciated. So, you are very busy, well being economically productive has its "upside". I sort of remember those days-I think (;-) Cheers, Michael
  20. Piet, JUST discovered your wonderful build, from "full View" thread. Whao !. I tabbed your build. I'll be back to spend some time here. PS: love the beer boxes, wrong label or not--sweet Cheers, Michael
  21. Hi Mates, Minor update. Install pics of those sheaves. Thanks for looking in. Regards, Michael
  22. I have contacted Ages of Sail regarding this issue. They responded, and they said that they will contact me with USD pricing info when product comes in. Oh my -- it is a beautiful ship kit...I'll update this thread when I have their price. Michael
  23. George, Thanks, appreciated. Noted on the vocabulary still learning it (:-) Michael
  24. Hi Mates, Started, again, working on the mizzen chainplate pulley sheaves. These pulleys were apparently used for the lower foremast sail. Here are some preliminary pics. The photos are self-explanatory. This is the first time (novice) that I “really” use the Proxxon MX70 (including X & Y attachment) for a task for which it was better intended. Nice tool-super accurate, great addition to my shipyard. Using the routing drill bits for the first time as well. PS: Nigel - thanks for you previous advice on how to correctly use these bits, I know that you have been very busy of late..good luck =============== Oops, just noticed, after again looking at the 1/1 photo that the housings have an outward overhang from the chainplates by a fair amount. (I used the 1:10th as a guide, hmmm wrong, no overhang on that model) So the two that I made would attach to the without any overhang. Fix: added a strip of wood to the rear of each one and re-shaped the back edge so as to gain that overhang. Bit of a diff. wood, but that will visually disappear once installed. The overhang is not as pronounced as in the 1/1, but I’m satisfied. At least this time I caught the error before installing. Hmmm is that a good sign?? Ha ah… Then made pulleys, as some of you know this is where I cheat. I’ve tried making real pulleys with my Proxxon Lathe, but just can’t seem to get that task right. So deadeyes to the rescue, a bit of sanding using a rotary tool, results in a “pulley”. Then a bit of sanding on the resulting sharp edges and Voila a pulley. I now need to add proper looking mounting nails, as well as the pulley shaft, then glue both into place. I’ll post a couple of pics when it’s all done. Again, thanks for looking in, and thank you so much to the kind mates that follow along, give advice, click like, and post way too nice of messages J Cheers Michael
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