mtaylor

Welcome to MSW, James.  The others have given some great advice.   If you havent' done so, read the tu;torials here:  https://modelshipworld.com/forum/98-planking-downloads-and-tutorials-and-videos/

As a side note, I find using sanding sticks such as those found in beau;ty supply shops for nails to work a treat for fairing.

You might want to do some testing using FireFox if it will run on a phone.  The Edge browser uses Google code for it's behind the scenes software and it may start having the same issues.   Hopefully, Google/Samsong will sort out their issues.  Iit's possible, I think, that Samsung is the problem with their driver so hopefully, they can fix it.

Have you tried heat bending the bamboo?   Might be the solution to the problem.  

Edit:  I found a builder who's bending bamboo..... here's  his post:  

Hmm.... emperor penguins can be a tall as 5 feet so double the size of a "normal" one.   But they'd still be tiny on the model.  I'll go stand in the corner now and penance for that.

Now that I think of it, we have had some couples building models even just one is doing some odds and ends.

Glen, I quite agree with Kieth.  I think the sails are giving us an optical illusion.  If looked at one way, it appears they are billowing from bow to stern.. and yet, they; also look like wind from astern and blowing forward.  Makes my eyes cross if I look too long.

Welcome to MSW.  I would suggest you open build log(s) when you're ready as it's a great way to questions and also meet other modelers.

14 hours ago, KeithAug said:

Maybe it's you that got it wrong PAT. 😜

 

So instead of "Rudolf the Red-Nosed Reindeer" you sing "Rudolf the Red Nosed Roo"?

17 hours ago, Jaager said:

A license and inspection is not needed for home built furniture, but if you use a simple plate glass and some sort of accident happens and the glass breaks into obsidian sharp spear points you might wish that you had been required to use a tempered glass that shatters into harmless balls. 

Excellent point, Dean.

Will there be a calender for 2024?

Just a couple more thoughts....   visit your local glass/window supply company.  You'll be able to see how flexible acrylic is.   Also have look what they off in glass, not acrylic.   You should also check if they have frosted acrylic or glass for light diffusion.  

You WILL be leaning forward and resting your arms and some body weight on this clear/frosted top along with other items so it needs to be able to resist the weight.   

Sheer brilliance to use the 3D printer.   

I hope you'll back off a bit and not push yourself so your body can recover.  Don't worry about the model as it's patient.

Even an old hair dryer will work.  They don't usually get hot enough to burn the wood if one's not being careful with a hot air gun.   I use both depending on my mood.

I find remember the "treat each piece as a model and at the the of the day, you'll have more models than most do in a lifetime.".    Yes, it's hard to do that and I'm still trying to follow that.

20 hours ago, Boccherini said:

Dick,

no different to making your own blocks and deadeyes. Sometimes this hobby has it's times of "patient endurance". Builds character I'm told.

 

Regards,

Grant.

Character and sometimes builds vocabulary in a non-mixed company way while turning the air blue.

'Necessity is the mother of invention' has reared it's head again.  Excellent solution.

1 hour ago, tmj said:

Roger,

How do you 'diffuse' the light so that you do not have bright "HOT-SPOTS" where the lights are mounted? 

I tried making one of these for a gal at work and could never get the light the way we wanted it. If I mounted the lights around the perimeter of the box, with a wide border to hide the lights, the face of the box would be brightest around the outside of the 'window', getting darker as you moved towards the center. If I put the lights in the middle of the window It looked like a box full of light sabers through the diffusion material. Even tried LED strips for a more subtle effect, but still no go. No matter what I tried, I could always see where the lights were. I never achieved a smooth, uniform lighting effect.   

The "diffusing" is a problem.   Way back in the day, the "best" one I saw had the lamps (florescent as I recall) under shades around the edges that shined on a white board about 6" from the glass.  Also, the glass was frosted on the "light bulb" side.  Ours were in a room that wasn't brightly lit but did have easels with lights to hang drawings, etc.

I'd think the 1/8" is pretty flimsy for something that large at 4X8.    Best bet may be to go to the supplier (hopefully local) and see.   I have a feeling you might need something thicker than 1/ 4" as you will be leaning on it.  Back in the day, ours had glass (1/4" or 3/16") for the large tables.