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Everything posted by mtaylor
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Thanks Glenn. I'll go have a look at how you did it.
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Thanks Glenn. That's what I use for the rigging. I'm trying to sort how how fit the hardware to the hull. Thanks, B.E. I'm using the pin vice also. Just having a devil of a time getting the hole in right position and thought maybe someone had a jig type of setup.
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Thanks everyone. All is well back in the shop after a minor disturbance in the force by a young lad. Without too much detail, the model is repaired and I'm back to building. I do have a question about deadeyes... is there a trick to getting these things into position? After installing the deadeye and then the hardware, there needs to be pins put into place. I'm having a devil of a time as the pins don't just press in but need pre-drilled holes. How have you other ones done it?
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We do have an area for 3D printing and lasers.... https://modelshipworld.com/forum/172-3d-printing-and-laser-cutting/ There are quite a few of us (myself included) with lasers and the 3D printing folks are growing also. Several build logs for some ships that are 3d printed. You're doing some nice work there.
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Artesenia Latina Printed Instructions Needed
mtaylor replied to Aj73's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Allan, I don't think AL puts plans in kits anymore. From what I've read in the logs, it's just CD's. -
What Keith asked I'm curious about and also is it possible that they only rigged rails/ropes around hatchways and other areas as needed in foul weather?
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Artesenia Latina Printed Instructions Needed
mtaylor replied to Aj73's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
As footnote... you could take the CD to any architectural blue print shop (they copy large drawings) and have them print the plans from the CD. I hope the plans Gregory gave are for the correct plans. -
For a build log, we have a scratch and kit area and both are subdivided by yearrs. There's pinned posts for help in getting started and set up. As for past projects, use the gallery. If you'll go here, https://modelshipworld.com/forum/47-how-to-use-the-msw-forum/, there's lots of pinned posts on how to use the forum features.
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Welcome to MSW, Gene. Best advice I can offer is start small and the half-hull project would be a good one. Open a log for it as it's the best way to meet others and get helpl.
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Interesting that there's no handrails on the ladders or around the opening. I'm surprised that there wouldn't at least have been rope ones in stanchions.
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Welcome to MSW, John. Do feel free to start a build log on each of your projects as you go. We'd love to see them.
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This is impressive work, Keith. Given the scale it's beyond impressive. I'm glad you stuck with it and sorted things out.
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Very well done, Eric. The capstan is beautiful. As for your RR project, don't let that stop you from sharing the build here in Shore Leave. It looks fascinating.
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Nothing wrong with no masts or limited masts and rigging. I'm in that same boat with others as far as space, so from the current build on, stub masts only.
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Copper plates
mtaylor replied to Barbara's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Ah... copper plating. I'll delete that topic as I thought the same as Roger. I haven't seen one here on MSW but there might be one. You might check Youtube or do a search here for "copper plating". I got a not quite a thousand hits on a search of the whole site. Many are build logs but there are topics on plating hulls. If this is for your build of the Pride of Baltimore, you might just limit your search to the ship as other builders would be plating also. -
The quest for a fix for my eyes was a success. As for the build, I've been working with the PE friezes and less then happy with my work so I've pulled the few I had installed off and set them aside for now. Luckily, none have been damaged. I'll get the hang of this sooner or later. While I think this through on the friezes, I'll bypass that step and come back to it.
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NAIAD 1797 by Bitao - 1:60
mtaylor replied to Bitao's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
From your description, it doesn't seem to be the wood or the color but the color balance of the camera. The important thing is that it looks good to your eye in person. All cameras are different in the way they grab the image and store it. Some can have the color balance shifted along with contrast, etc. The lighting in the room can also affect the image. My take is... don't worry about it. If it looks good to you, it is good.
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