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mtaylor

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Everything posted by mtaylor

  1. Part of our problem with ships of the age is that while we can find the evidence (Viking ships come to mind and all that follow) our knowledge is limited. Much was not recorded because it was common knowledge back then. Sadly, much of that common knowledge has been lost. Lost knowledge even hits us now...cars for example. How many 20-somethings actually know how to drive a stick shift? Change oil, spark plugs, etc. Or adjust the points in the distributor? The info is out there in books. The problem is, there are no books from the deep past. Bob, you have sea in your blood. Many of us (most?) don't. It's good that you do as you have a perspective that many of us don't have.
  2. Glen, I picked up fettling from some of the builders here on MSW. Kind of fits in my mind. To me it's a mix of "fixing", "grumbling" and "multiple redo's. LOL
  3. Thanks, Dave. I'm not in England for Oregon in the US. My doc and hospital have a good reputation so I feel I'm in good hands.
  4. Welcome to MSW, Tom. Moved to appropriate area. I suggest you do a short intro of yourself also in this topic. As for planking, do you have the plans? There are planking tutorials available here to help.. top of the page under the "More" heading.
  5. More congrats are in order then. What an honor for you and the model. I'll be among those keeping my fingers crossed that transportation goes smoothly and safely.
  6. You might just as well give in as resistance is futile. The Dark Side of the Force beckons. I went with a Little Machine Shop machine after my MicroMark mini mill died. Very useful. As for sanding frames... they make assorted sizes of sanding "cones" (cylinders?) for drills that work well in a mill. The abrasive sleeves are consumables.
  7. It's all making sense to me now, Bob. One thing that's been said in somewhat of a jest is that we need a "Wayback" machine. The reality, is... we really do.
  8. One of the issues here is "tar". Tar today is an oil based product and black. Way back when it was resin based and when fresh was anything but black (amber as I recall). So color choices could be made on the shrouds and lanyards.
  9. I think I have the stern fixed. Still needs a bit of shaping which is in work. I couldn't remove the underlayment for both pieces as I'd CA'd them. Bad on me. But the upper parts are where they should be. The lower one is now where it should be. Here's pics of the stern as fixed. I'll have to do some fettling for the windows but I accept that. I've also learned that wood this thin is delicate and need to remember to have a lighter touch.
  10. I re-reading this and looking at the first picture, several things come to mind. The picture shows 7 windows with the 2 outboard ones seemingly hanging out there with no quarter galleries. Follow the line from the stern bulwark downwards and it appears to go between the the outboard windows. We know that many countries did false windows to make the stern appear larger. On some, they were all false windows. You are right about O'Brian and his method it seems. He may have been a technical writer but his books aren't technical. Their about the characters and their actions. So, as for what's below the quarter deck, don't worry about it unless you're planning on doing cut-outs in the hull and showing interior works. If that's the case, then it's another can of worms to sort out.
  11. Barefoot seems to a common practice but not everyone did it. I've seen more than few paintings from the 1700's/1800's of sailors barefoot and the guy next to him has shoes.
  12. Looking great from here. Love the detail work. And that's a great idea to put some of the hidden stuff outside the ship and on the display.
  13. Download the guide that posted. The right blade as such is dependent on wood thickness.
  14. Looks to be a very nice kit of topic not seen much here. BTW, Trumpeter is legit. We have quite a few logs here on their products. both ships and non-ships.
  15. Hi Lauren,, Welcome to MSW. Once you know what model you'll build, feel free to open a build log in the kit area.
  16. Thanks B.E. I'm fixing it now. Once dry, I'll post a pic. The issue was actually the counter.
  17. Thanks for the likes and comments. Making more progress, slowly but still moving forward. I've installed the gallery framing and also the first stern fascia. Had some issues but my fault for not noting that the stern needs to be higher than the pics at this point show. The note is later in the build,,,,, doooooh . Broke a few bits off moving it but I'll add them back on before the covering piece. There is some misfit with the counter blank as I think I set it too low but I think a bit of fill, sanding, and then the paint at the appropriate time will fix that. I'll holding off painting the wales for a bit until I get the rest of the galleries set up. I'm not fond of gluing things to paint which includes the gallery lower finishing pieces.
  18. The little guys look great as always from you. And as others have said, it brings things to life and adds detail to the model.
  19. Good lighting is a must. I have a set of magnifier "googles" with built in LED lights that I use along with some hand held magnifiers. I also now have a pair of 4X reading glasses from my eye doc's office that was very reasonably priced and included the prism I need for one eye. Start with the lighting then go from there. See your doc about reading glasses. They can set the magnification and distance focal point for you.
  20. Wow... that is an improvement. Getting the upgrade bits probably helped a lot also. Congrats. I hope things keep going well.
  21. I did find out that brass can be tempered which is probably what this needs. However, finding an oven to get that hot is a problem. https://sciencing.com/determine-copper-real-10511.html Scroll down and you'll instructions.
  22. Don't forget that the planks will need tapering at the bow. This should reduce the clinkering also. I failed to taper far enough aftwards on my build but was able to "push" the next plank such that it filled the clinker. Once the clinkering started I redid the plank tapers and it came out much better. And also accurately line off the hull and follow the marks. This is probably the most important part.
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