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MrBlueJacket

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Everything posted by MrBlueJacket

  1. MrBlueJacket
    Jim bought his Portland kit in 2014, it is the revised version.
  2. MrBlueJacket
    Hi Jon, The diorama is really coming together! Leaving the figures as pale white images is a technique I have seen in museums before. It both gives the observer a sense of scale and lends a "museum-like" quality to the whole image, but doesn't detract from the model. I agree if you painted them, the focus would shift from the model to the figures. Keep going! Nic
  3. MrBlueJacket
    There is a Facebook posting of the building of the Portland from Jim Finan. It's about 2 years old, but a good sequence for you. Nic
  4. MrBlueJacket
    Nice!
  5. MrBlueJacket
    Yes, it's the waterline reference, about 1/8" above waterline. The fainter lines further up are for bead molding and channel placement.
  6. MrBlueJacket
    And the rudder is attached to the hull.
  7. MrBlueJacket
    Here's the bowsprit assembly finished for now.
  8. MrBlueJacket
    Over the weekend I was able to trim the forecastle,and make and fit the bowsprit.
  9. MrBlueJacket
    Here's the decking applied.Main and poop are glued in, Forecastle is just placed in, needs trimming.
  10. MrBlueJacket
    Looking very good, Stan. Can't wait to see the plating! Nic
  11. MrBlueJacket
    Testing the fit, I guess I have about another 1/4 inch to go.
  12. MrBlueJacket
    I also have to carve out a notch to fit the bowsprit. I cut the sides of the notch with a razor saw, and used the chisel blade in my Xacto handle. Slow going, but not difficult.
  13. MrBlueJacket
    In my working on the Red Jacket, I neglected to sand in the deck camber before I put the bulwarks on. So now I have 3 choices: 1- ignore it 2- rip the bulwarks out 3- get creative. I can't do #1 because the laser-cut deckhouses have the curvature cut into the bottoms already. As for #2 - NO WAY JOSE ! So I got creative, and made a spine and ribs to the 3/32 camber. I made sure the ribs supported the deckhouse edges, fiferails, and mast locations. I think it will work just fine. tapering the ribs is much easier than trying to sand the entire deck, anyway.
  14. MrBlueJacket
    And with that, the model is FINISHED. I really like the natural wood base.
  15. MrBlueJacket

    FINISHED

  16. MrBlueJacket
    And here's the nets in place.
  17. MrBlueJacket
    One of the last touches is to add netting. Of course, the nets have to have floats attached.
  18. MrBlueJacket
    Yes, we will. As with all our kit pieces, they will be available individually. It will probably take some weeks to get them going.
  19. MrBlueJacket
    I'm sure it would. You would have to mark the two edge rails and glue the battens to them, that's all.
  20. MrBlueJacket
    And guess what? IT WORKED! So well, in fact, that we will be adding this into the three kits we offer that have battens (Pauline, Bowdoin, and Notman)
  21. MrBlueJacket
    So the rigging is done, and it's time to add the battens to the port shrouds. Now, that's a job I don't particularly like. After attaching hundreds of them on the Charles Notman, I decided to try something new and novel. Why not laser cut the battens at the correct spacing, and leave a support strip on each side? That way you have a single piece, correctly spaced, that you can glue to the shrouds. When the glue dries, all you have to do is snip off the excess, and you have perfectly spaced battens the easy way!
  22. MrBlueJacket
    We do have shot for the kit, ( 2 sizes I think) but because it is a kit specific part, it is not on the web. You can call and request it, however. Nic
  23. MrBlueJacket
    Moving on, the gallows are attached. Check out the just visible inside of the companionway door - I'm kinda proud of that detail.
  24. MrBlueJacket
    It's Floquil CN Green - we still have a bunch of bottles of that color to sell.
  25. MrBlueJacket
    Living in Maine, I invite you to come visit our shop and gallery in Searsport, outside Belfast. Nic

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