robdurant

Hi Bruma, Sorry it's taken me so long to get back Yes, it's a beautiful boat. Not much progress so far, I'm afraid, as I'm still rigging my frigate, but I've started marking up and shaping the bulkheads. I'll post some pictures in a bit. Rob

A minor update in v1.0.7. I've added a Recent Files list in the File menu so that you can get back to recent profiles more easily. The list will be empty when you first use the app, but it'll fill in as you save settings files and start using them. As always, this completely free (cost-free, licensing-free, ad-free) app is available at: https://www.durant.biz/pictureresizer/ I think this is probably the last update for a little while, and I'll work on getting the documentation in a bit better shape. It's a few versions behind right now. Here's a screenshot of the recent files list in action:

Hi Jason, It's been a productive month or so I've attached my calculations below which are based on AOTS. The first page shows mast dimensions (with long, proper and stump additional measurements for topgallant (add the first column "height o/a" to the stump / long / proper)). These measurements are shown 1:1 in feet and inches, 1:1 in metres, and then 1:64 in cm. I opted for the long, but I have to say, it does add quite a lot to the height of a case!... It looks really smart, though, and gives the masts a sense of really gracefully stretching out above the hull. Please do check these yourself before you start cutting wood, because my mind's a little foggy on how I went about this, and I wouldn't want to steer you off course If you download this pdf, the second and third pages are all of the yard dimensions from AOTS. Spar dimensions at scale.pdf I drew all of these out in CAD and used those as the basis for making the spars. Unfortunately I lost those drawings with some computer troubles, otherwise I'd share them here. Hence not being quite as sure as I would have been as to what I decided. The rigging is all roughly per the kit, but looking at Lennarth Petersson's book to help me get it right... Those are the places where I used deadeyes instead of the special blocks Caldercraft provides.... (fiddle blocks?). Altogether I think they're pretty similar. My model is not going to be a completely accurate rendition as I've already realised that I missed out a shroud on the main mast, which has been repurposed as a topmast shroud so that the deadeye is occupied. And I missed the cleats on the masts, so the belaying points are being reworked a little. But I'm satisfied the overall effect will be sufficiently accurate to look workable. Thanks to all for the encouragement and interest shown. Rob

I've just completed the main mast stays - topmast, topgallant, and royal stays, as per the fore mast. And in doing so I ran out of .5mm natural thread.... again... but not before I got all of the yards attached to the masts, and the spritsail yard attached too with their trusses and parrel beads as appropriate. Here's what I did (although I'm aware that in various places it may be a little unorthodox - not least because I forgot to put the cleats on the masts, and it's way too late to start at this stage! Lesson learned! The bits that hold the yards up (trusses, parrel beads, and halyards?) Main yards and cross jack The main, fore and cross jack yards (those that are lowest on the masts) are fixed with trusses. I formed these by tying two lengths round the yards with loops in the ends at the yard. This was done off the model. Then the yards were put back in place, and the opposite ends passed through the loops and then down to the deck and fixed tied off to a double 3mm block opposite a single block hooked into the eyelet on the deck just behind the mast with a lanyard which ends on the cleat on the mast (or on the bitts if you've forgotten them!). There's a good illustration of this in the instructions, and an even better picture in Lennarth Petersson's book... but here's my attempt. Parrel beads (top / topgt yards) The maintop, maintopgallant, foremaintop, and foremaintopgallant yards have parrel beads in two rows with parrel bead separators between them. These are noted as being castings in my instructions, but were in fact brass etched. They need blackening / painting before you begin. Then you have to start the tortuous needs-five-hands-at-least task of getting them rigged. To make this easier, I did as much as I could off the model. .5mm rope was looped round the yard through the footropes, where it would finally end up, and parrel beads were threaded onto the rope, interspersed with the spacers - currently only on one rope (paying attention to which way round the spacers are - the curved edge will face out from the mast when fixed). Then, the other end of the rope was passed through the other hole in the spacers. The picture will make it more clear, hopefully... Once done, masking tape is applied to the loose ends to stop it all falling off... ...and the yard is then attached to the mast (it's pinned). Then the loose ends can be passed round the mast on the inner side of any rigging, ensuring that it isn't above or below any blocks that it shouldn't be... and fastened with a knot into a loop in as inconspicuous fashion as possible. I'll admit, I'm not great at this... but it's done for another model! I've seen others put extra layers on from this point to go round the middle of the parrel beads, but I call it a day at this point... or my head hurts too much! Here's an end shot. The fore and aft booms on the mizzen mast are secured with a single thread with parrel beads on it, but no spacers. Spritsail yard This is placed in a sling as shown below... A loop is tied round the bowsprit, and then another round the spritsail yard. It's all tied off in the middle. The spritsail yard stay can then be rigged... Finally, the heavy loops that support the weight of the yards, and are formed with suitably heavy rope along with the big 7mm blocks which were rigged and pass down to the deck to be rigged to the eyelets just fore of the mast being tied off on the bitts. So far so good. The gaps to fit one's hands in are growing smaller... but we're getting there. Rob

You're very welcome

Thanks for your kind words

Great start Hope you won't mind me pulling up a chair and sitting in on this build. I used Original Marquetry for my boxwood and they were really helpful (even ringing up to check details on the order), and the veneer seemed to me to be very good quality. I found it pretty tough to get it to sit flat on the hull as I put down the second planking, but that was my skill level, not the wood's fault! There's less wriggle room than with the thicker planks. I don't regret using it. It has a really lovely colour.

Hi David, Many of the ideas are from other builds on this great forum, so I can't claim them for my own, but please do take whatever you find helpful and use to your heart's content. I'm very glad to hear that the software is proving a help as well. I look forward to seeing lots of updates as you progress. Diana makes up into a stunning and very impressive model! Thanks Rob

Okay - the new video describing the functionality in v1.0.5 is now live... and since then I've updated it to v1.0.6, which also brings support for GIF, TIFF and Windows Bitmap (.bmp) files. https://www.durant.biz/pictureresizer/ Hope it's helpful. All questions / comments, welcome. Here's the video.

More functionality. Version 1.0.5 is on the website: https://www.durant.biz/pictureresizer/ If you check the checkbox that says: "View each file individually before resizing", it'll come up with an image preview window for each picture that's going to be resized. In that window you have the option to manually rotate the image, and/or flip it horizontally or vertically. Then you can either resize that image, or skip it, and it will go on to the next image that's queued up to be resized. Again it doesn't make any changes to the original file. Just the new one. I haven't documented it yet, but I will when I get a moment, and I'll do a video too. Hope it's helpful. Rob

I used one of these too. They certainly make life easier, and if marks are put regularly enough, you can make pretty good curves. I have a violin rib bender that I'm going to try this time round, which I'm hoping will be even quicker, and will leave no marks on the back (especially useful where you want to make concave curves, where the inside of the curve will be visible when fixed. Looks like you're making quick progress, and the 1.5mm lime will give plenty of room for sanding back any rough edges. [EDIT] scrolling back up I see that you've made lots more progress than that - those gunports are tricky, and you've done a lovely job. The first planking looks like a good smooth platform for the next one too. Nice job!

Thanks Bob, Hopefully I'll make it through, and perhaps if I take lots of photos, it will help others - or at least, help them avoid the mistakes I make

Welcome to Modelshipworld - it's a really friendly place, and if you start a build log you should get a bunch of people willing to offer advice and encouragement.

The next stage is to trial fit the bulkheads, checking that they are a comfy, but not stressed fit. This was remarkably easy - again the accuracy of the laser-cutting was great... When I tried putting in the wooden dowels they slid in really easily - one dowel was a little oval in cross-section, so I sanded it down, but the holes for the dowels were perfectly placed, and when sighting along the hull with the dowels in, I was thrilled to find the hull was really nice and smooth... (bulkhead fairing excepted) Lego was employed to check squareness. As HeronGuy noted, the dowels will make a wonderfully rigid structure, but you do need to check it's all straight. Once satisfied with the vertical and widthways squareness of the parts, I took the whole thing apart, and glued it bit by bit with carpenter's glue. This diverted from the instructions which suggest brushing on watered down glue. I wasn't confident that the glue would work effectively enough for my liking, and I didn't want things coming unstuck during the fairing process. I had one oopsy moment, where I realised that I'd got a bulkhead slightly high, but pushing it down, the dowels fitted like a glove. The carpenter's glue gave Just enough time to double-check things to make sure all was square, and that brings us up to date. It's now going to be left overnight to glue nice and solid ready for fairing tomorrow. Here's the glue I've been using (for every model I've built so far). I can't fault it. Good strength, quick grab, plenty of moving time, and waters down brilliantly for the rigging. It dries clear with a dull sheen. (And no I don't work for them ) I've ordered some extra balsa, which will hopefully arrive in the next few days. I wasn't expecting to get so far so quickly, but it's testament to MarisStella that I have. One last photo... Ethalion and Stefano in the same room... They're very comparable in size. I think I'm going to rig this model with yards braced round, as per some contemporary models in the Maritime Museum in Greenwich. e.g. https://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/66318.html It could help with the space 🤣 So far, I'm falling just as in love with this kit as with Ethalion, which bodes well for the next few years! Happy building Rob

Well, it finally happened. Lockdown began in the UK, and I ran out of the rope I needed to continue with Ethalion... so, it was over to Stefano for a bit... The build begins with the parts for the false keel being taken out of the walnut sheet. These are laser cut and fit well. Here they are laid out... The angle on the cut was quite significant (I don't know whether it's more than on other builds, as I've only built CNC cut parts before. I didn't sand these down as they were a snug fit already, and I didn't want to make the joint loose. Instead, I glued it as was (but NOT the stern post or the front of the bow part... I want these to be nice and neat, so I'll add them later). I spent some time thinning down the stern so that the planking will not stick out from the stern post when added. The stern post will not be added until at least the first planking is complete, and that way I'll be able to thin the first planking down to 1mm short of the width of the post, so that it fits nicely when the second planking goes on... Here's the thinning in progress (test fitted with the other parts) And how it looks once glued... Here they are being glued (I discovered that baking paper DOES stick to carpenter's glue *sigh*... The metre ruler makes sure that the keel is glued straight. Having glued the parts together, I spent a little time working on a rabbet at bow and stern to provide a guide for the planking. This was done with a proxxon mini drill and an engraving tool... it's a bit messy, but I'll tidy it up once the balsa is in. The next day, I noticed there was a little twist in the keel - but I'm not expecting this to be an issue once the hull structure is together. I made up the building board with some highly engineered parts being used for the bow and stern supports (courtesy of my son!) - it turns out if you leave one dot between the side supports, then add 2mm of wood, it makes the perfect width for the walnut to fit in. I went ahead and took out the bulkheads... These are beautifully cut. No issues at all about shaping... They look perfect. Trial fits confirmed that they are indeed very accurate... The 14mm dowels that connect them together were cut to size as per the plans (nb: the top and bottom plans measure slightly differently on sheet 3... I used the bottom measurements which are P5, as mentioned in the instructions. The difference isn't major, but certainly one to watch out for. The main-mast step is fitted into bulkhead 12. This has to fit so that the step goes back to the notch on the false keel, but with the hole itself sitting slightly inside the extent of the bulkhead so that the part is flush with the forward edge of the bulkhead. It makes sense when you put it together, and the plans and instructions are well done. Whatever you do, don't do what I nearly did and glue it onto the false keel blocking the way for the bulkhead to be inserted! At this stage bulkhead 12 is glued to the mast step, but nothing is glued to the false keel. A strip is added to bulkhead 2, which will act as the deck support. I used some leftover walnut from Ethalion, but it does tell you which wood you can use in the kit. The top side is curved... I didn't try to edge bend the wood, I just sanded a curved profile in it. This was nice and easy. You'll notice in the images below that the upper two holes in Bulkhead 2 are assymetrical (the left hand hole is further from the bowsprit hole... There's no mention of this as far as I can tell in the instructions... I'm working on the assumption that I can fix it later easily enough if I need to, but in the meantime, I looked at the MarisStella.hr log, and copied their prototype... Hence the pencil marking for aft / fore on either side. You'll need to work this out before you stick on the strip because it goes on the aft side. All this gets hidden under the raised deck platform at the bow, so I'm not too concerned about looks. No-one will see it, from what I can tell. This post is quite long enough, so I'll start another one. Happy building Rob

It could simply be because the lens on mobile phones are so wide angle. If the object is not in the centre of the shot they will have a curve to them. The solution can be to take the photo from slightly further away and zoom in a little. Then the subject will be further in towards the centre of the shot and will be straighter in the image. I've tried to put examples below... The first is taken at full frame (zoomed right out). This gives the biggest file, but as you'll see from the straight yellow line i added afterwards, the edges of the image are warped... making the ruler bend. The second image was taken from about three times further away but using the camera zoom to get closer. The image quality is not so good as the lighting in my kitchen is pretty poor, but the phone effectively takes a full photo then cuts off the edges... that means that the ruler is effectively closer to the centre of the frame and the distortion is reduced... as below... Again the yellow line was added afterwards in a graphics programme. Hope that helps explain what is probably happening. Rob

I'm just starting to build the case for my Diana (Ethalion)... it was when I costed the clear plastic and realised it alone would be over 200 pounds itself that I realised I'd built a seriously large model (although crossing the main yard was a hint)... but cover it I will because already it's a challenge getting into the nooks and crannies to dust her and I have children who benefit from not having to edge round fragile models all day Vane, whatever you decide you're going to end up with a stunning fleet. Your skills are very evident in all your builds. Oboship... have you considered rigging the yards braced round, or even building her as an admiralty model without the masts or rigging? (The much smaller option) Both would be preferable to not finishing?

Wow. You're doing a wonderful job with this model, and at 1:96, too. Very impressive. The chestrees and fenders do add that bit of detail to the side, don't they, and you've executed them really well. They look like they've always been there.

Hi all, A quick update. I've just released version 1.0.4, which has a couple of minor bug fixes and introduces application icons and a few other touches that will make the programme look nicer on your computer. Do uninstall the previous version first, then you can find the application here: https://www.durant.biz/pictureresizer/ v1.0.4 updates: * When you close the application it will now keep hold of your settings, and bring them up again when you come back. * The profile files now store the resize images option. * Application icons and installer graphics updated. Thanks Rob

Two years very well spent from what I can see Happy new year to you too!

Hi Peter You spotted them They were a gift from santa... I really struggle making the wooden little boats so I now have the resin hull set sold separately. I spent a happy few hours yesterday evening putting paper onto them as per Jason's (beef wellington) build to make them look clinkered. Having put them in place I now realise it will leave almost nothing showing on the gundeck so I'll probably display them along the front of the model with perhaps one in place. We'll see. Here's the progress so far. Thanks Rob

Okay - so just looking back at what I did yesterday, I'm still getting confused myself... Here's what I did, using the mizzen mast as the example (the main mast is the same) 1. Mizzentopmast stay. Goes to the block just below the mainmast top, then passes down to the deck where it is secured as shown. 2. Mizzentopmast preventer stay. The same, but goes to the block above the mainmast top. 3. Mizzentopgallantmast stay. Goes from the hounds of the topgallant to the block on the maintopmast just above the crosstrees, then passes down to the top where it is seized to an eyelet. 4. Mizzentop royal stay. Goes from the tip of the topgallant to the block seized round the hounds of the maintopgallant mast, then down to be tied off on the mainmast main shroud behind the mast. Then rinse and repeat for the main mast, tying off to the fore mast in the respective positions. As always, hope this helps Next post will be on the (somewhat confusing) array of backstays that can be fitted... Happy building Rob

Oh yes, and a picture of progress so far.... (with the yards temporarily fixed to see how it looked ) And one with just the rigging...

More stays, a martingale, and some backstays... Once the lower stays are in place, it's time to move onto the backstays. These are set up much like the lower stays, except that the foretopmast stay and the foretopgallant stay go through the holes in the bees on either side of the jib boom. They attach to eyelets in the bow on either side of the jib boom, where they're seized. These photos are warts and all, but hopefully it allows you to see how I've gone ahead and done things. I rigged the martingale next... This is the rope that goes from the tip of the jib boom, under the dolphin striker (that points down from the joint between the jib boom and bowsprit) and to the bow. Foretopgallant stay This goes from the hounds of the foretopgallant mast down to the block on the tip of the jibboom and then runs back along the jib boom to tie off on the starboard deadeye on the foremost ring of deadeyes on the bowsprit. The main and mizzen topgallant stays and royal stays, go to the mast in front where they pass through blocks and down. The top gallant stays go to the deck where they are fixed with blocks... the royals, are tied off to the back of the main shroud. For some reason I didn't take pictures of this, so I'll try and get some and add a post. All of this may not be entirely accurate to the period, but it's how I'd gone about it based on my understanding of the plans and Lennarth Petersson's book. Hope it's helpful. Rob

Thanks gsdpic. And welcome to the build.