robdurant

You're very welcome

Thanks for your kind words

Great start Hope you won't mind me pulling up a chair and sitting in on this build. I used Original Marquetry for my boxwood and they were really helpful (even ringing up to check details on the order), and the veneer seemed to me to be very good quality. I found it pretty tough to get it to sit flat on the hull as I put down the second planking, but that was my skill level, not the wood's fault! There's less wriggle room than with the thicker planks. I don't regret using it. It has a really lovely colour.

Hi David, Many of the ideas are from other builds on this great forum, so I can't claim them for my own, but please do take whatever you find helpful and use to your heart's content. I'm very glad to hear that the software is proving a help as well. I look forward to seeing lots of updates as you progress. Diana makes up into a stunning and very impressive model! Thanks Rob

Okay - the new video describing the functionality in v1.0.5 is now live... and since then I've updated it to v1.0.6, which also brings support for GIF, TIFF and Windows Bitmap (.bmp) files. https://www.durant.biz/pictureresizer/ Hope it's helpful. All questions / comments, welcome. Here's the video.

More functionality. Version 1.0.5 is on the website: https://www.durant.biz/pictureresizer/ If you check the checkbox that says: "View each file individually before resizing", it'll come up with an image preview window for each picture that's going to be resized. In that window you have the option to manually rotate the image, and/or flip it horizontally or vertically. Then you can either resize that image, or skip it, and it will go on to the next image that's queued up to be resized. Again it doesn't make any changes to the original file. Just the new one. I haven't documented it yet, but I will when I get a moment, and I'll do a video too. Hope it's helpful. Rob

I used one of these too. They certainly make life easier, and if marks are put regularly enough, you can make pretty good curves. I have a violin rib bender that I'm going to try this time round, which I'm hoping will be even quicker, and will leave no marks on the back (especially useful where you want to make concave curves, where the inside of the curve will be visible when fixed. Looks like you're making quick progress, and the 1.5mm lime will give plenty of room for sanding back any rough edges. [EDIT] scrolling back up I see that you've made lots more progress than that - those gunports are tricky, and you've done a lovely job. The first planking looks like a good smooth platform for the next one too. Nice job!

Thanks Bob, Hopefully I'll make it through, and perhaps if I take lots of photos, it will help others - or at least, help them avoid the mistakes I make

Welcome to Modelshipworld - it's a really friendly place, and if you start a build log you should get a bunch of people willing to offer advice and encouragement.

The next stage is to trial fit the bulkheads, checking that they are a comfy, but not stressed fit. This was remarkably easy - again the accuracy of the laser-cutting was great... When I tried putting in the wooden dowels they slid in really easily - one dowel was a little oval in cross-section, so I sanded it down, but the holes for the dowels were perfectly placed, and when sighting along the hull with the dowels in, I was thrilled to find the hull was really nice and smooth... (bulkhead fairing excepted) Lego was employed to check squareness. As HeronGuy noted, the dowels will make a wonderfully rigid structure, but you do need to check it's all straight. Once satisfied with the vertical and widthways squareness of the parts, I took the whole thing apart, and glued it bit by bit with carpenter's glue. This diverted from the instructions which suggest brushing on watered down glue. I wasn't confident that the glue would work effectively enough for my liking, and I didn't want things coming unstuck during the fairing process. I had one oopsy moment, where I realised that I'd got a bulkhead slightly high, but pushing it down, the dowels fitted like a glove. The carpenter's glue gave Just enough time to double-check things to make sure all was square, and that brings us up to date. It's now going to be left overnight to glue nice and solid ready for fairing tomorrow. Here's the glue I've been using (for every model I've built so far). I can't fault it. Good strength, quick grab, plenty of moving time, and waters down brilliantly for the rigging. It dries clear with a dull sheen. (And no I don't work for them ) I've ordered some extra balsa, which will hopefully arrive in the next few days. I wasn't expecting to get so far so quickly, but it's testament to MarisStella that I have. One last photo... Ethalion and Stefano in the same room... They're very comparable in size. I think I'm going to rig this model with yards braced round, as per some contemporary models in the Maritime Museum in Greenwich. e.g. https://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/66318.html It could help with the space 🤣 So far, I'm falling just as in love with this kit as with Ethalion, which bodes well for the next few years! Happy building Rob

Well, it finally happened. Lockdown began in the UK, and I ran out of the rope I needed to continue with Ethalion... so, it was over to Stefano for a bit... The build begins with the parts for the false keel being taken out of the walnut sheet. These are laser cut and fit well. Here they are laid out... The angle on the cut was quite significant (I don't know whether it's more than on other builds, as I've only built CNC cut parts before. I didn't sand these down as they were a snug fit already, and I didn't want to make the joint loose. Instead, I glued it as was (but NOT the stern post or the front of the bow part... I want these to be nice and neat, so I'll add them later). I spent some time thinning down the stern so that the planking will not stick out from the stern post when added. The stern post will not be added until at least the first planking is complete, and that way I'll be able to thin the first planking down to 1mm short of the width of the post, so that it fits nicely when the second planking goes on... Here's the thinning in progress (test fitted with the other parts) And how it looks once glued... Here they are being glued (I discovered that baking paper DOES stick to carpenter's glue *sigh*... The metre ruler makes sure that the keel is glued straight. Having glued the parts together, I spent a little time working on a rabbet at bow and stern to provide a guide for the planking. This was done with a proxxon mini drill and an engraving tool... it's a bit messy, but I'll tidy it up once the balsa is in. The next day, I noticed there was a little twist in the keel - but I'm not expecting this to be an issue once the hull structure is together. I made up the building board with some highly engineered parts being used for the bow and stern supports (courtesy of my son!) - it turns out if you leave one dot between the side supports, then add 2mm of wood, it makes the perfect width for the walnut to fit in. I went ahead and took out the bulkheads... These are beautifully cut. No issues at all about shaping... They look perfect. Trial fits confirmed that they are indeed very accurate... The 14mm dowels that connect them together were cut to size as per the plans (nb: the top and bottom plans measure slightly differently on sheet 3... I used the bottom measurements which are P5, as mentioned in the instructions. The difference isn't major, but certainly one to watch out for. The main-mast step is fitted into bulkhead 12. This has to fit so that the step goes back to the notch on the false keel, but with the hole itself sitting slightly inside the extent of the bulkhead so that the part is flush with the forward edge of the bulkhead. It makes sense when you put it together, and the plans and instructions are well done. Whatever you do, don't do what I nearly did and glue it onto the false keel blocking the way for the bulkhead to be inserted! At this stage bulkhead 12 is glued to the mast step, but nothing is glued to the false keel. A strip is added to bulkhead 2, which will act as the deck support. I used some leftover walnut from Ethalion, but it does tell you which wood you can use in the kit. The top side is curved... I didn't try to edge bend the wood, I just sanded a curved profile in it. This was nice and easy. You'll notice in the images below that the upper two holes in Bulkhead 2 are assymetrical (the left hand hole is further from the bowsprit hole... There's no mention of this as far as I can tell in the instructions... I'm working on the assumption that I can fix it later easily enough if I need to, but in the meantime, I looked at the MarisStella.hr log, and copied their prototype... Hence the pencil marking for aft / fore on either side. You'll need to work this out before you stick on the strip because it goes on the aft side. All this gets hidden under the raised deck platform at the bow, so I'm not too concerned about looks. No-one will see it, from what I can tell. This post is quite long enough, so I'll start another one. Happy building Rob

It could simply be because the lens on mobile phones are so wide angle. If the object is not in the centre of the shot they will have a curve to them. The solution can be to take the photo from slightly further away and zoom in a little. Then the subject will be further in towards the centre of the shot and will be straighter in the image. I've tried to put examples below... The first is taken at full frame (zoomed right out). This gives the biggest file, but as you'll see from the straight yellow line i added afterwards, the edges of the image are warped... making the ruler bend. The second image was taken from about three times further away but using the camera zoom to get closer. The image quality is not so good as the lighting in my kitchen is pretty poor, but the phone effectively takes a full photo then cuts off the edges... that means that the ruler is effectively closer to the centre of the frame and the distortion is reduced... as below... Again the yellow line was added afterwards in a graphics programme. Hope that helps explain what is probably happening. Rob

I'm just starting to build the case for my Diana (Ethalion)... it was when I costed the clear plastic and realised it alone would be over 200 pounds itself that I realised I'd built a seriously large model (although crossing the main yard was a hint)... but cover it I will because already it's a challenge getting into the nooks and crannies to dust her and I have children who benefit from not having to edge round fragile models all day Vane, whatever you decide you're going to end up with a stunning fleet. Your skills are very evident in all your builds. Oboship... have you considered rigging the yards braced round, or even building her as an admiralty model without the masts or rigging? (The much smaller option) Both would be preferable to not finishing?

Wow. You're doing a wonderful job with this model, and at 1:96, too. Very impressive. The chestrees and fenders do add that bit of detail to the side, don't they, and you've executed them really well. They look like they've always been there.

Hi all, A quick update. I've just released version 1.0.4, which has a couple of minor bug fixes and introduces application icons and a few other touches that will make the programme look nicer on your computer. Do uninstall the previous version first, then you can find the application here: https://www.durant.biz/pictureresizer/ v1.0.4 updates: * When you close the application it will now keep hold of your settings, and bring them up again when you come back. * The profile files now store the resize images option. * Application icons and installer graphics updated. Thanks Rob

Two years very well spent from what I can see Happy new year to you too!

Hi Peter You spotted them They were a gift from santa... I really struggle making the wooden little boats so I now have the resin hull set sold separately. I spent a happy few hours yesterday evening putting paper onto them as per Jason's (beef wellington) build to make them look clinkered. Having put them in place I now realise it will leave almost nothing showing on the gundeck so I'll probably display them along the front of the model with perhaps one in place. We'll see. Here's the progress so far. Thanks Rob

Okay - so just looking back at what I did yesterday, I'm still getting confused myself... Here's what I did, using the mizzen mast as the example (the main mast is the same) 1. Mizzentopmast stay. Goes to the block just below the mainmast top, then passes down to the deck where it is secured as shown. 2. Mizzentopmast preventer stay. The same, but goes to the block above the mainmast top. 3. Mizzentopgallantmast stay. Goes from the hounds of the topgallant to the block on the maintopmast just above the crosstrees, then passes down to the top where it is seized to an eyelet. 4. Mizzentop royal stay. Goes from the tip of the topgallant to the block seized round the hounds of the maintopgallant mast, then down to be tied off on the mainmast main shroud behind the mast. Then rinse and repeat for the main mast, tying off to the fore mast in the respective positions. As always, hope this helps Next post will be on the (somewhat confusing) array of backstays that can be fitted... Happy building Rob

Oh yes, and a picture of progress so far.... (with the yards temporarily fixed to see how it looked ) And one with just the rigging...

More stays, a martingale, and some backstays... Once the lower stays are in place, it's time to move onto the backstays. These are set up much like the lower stays, except that the foretopmast stay and the foretopgallant stay go through the holes in the bees on either side of the jib boom. They attach to eyelets in the bow on either side of the jib boom, where they're seized. These photos are warts and all, but hopefully it allows you to see how I've gone ahead and done things. I rigged the martingale next... This is the rope that goes from the tip of the jib boom, under the dolphin striker (that points down from the joint between the jib boom and bowsprit) and to the bow. Foretopgallant stay This goes from the hounds of the foretopgallant mast down to the block on the tip of the jibboom and then runs back along the jib boom to tie off on the starboard deadeye on the foremost ring of deadeyes on the bowsprit. The main and mizzen topgallant stays and royal stays, go to the mast in front where they pass through blocks and down. The top gallant stays go to the deck where they are fixed with blocks... the royals, are tied off to the back of the main shroud. For some reason I didn't take pictures of this, so I'll try and get some and add a post. All of this may not be entirely accurate to the period, but it's how I'd gone about it based on my understanding of the plans and Lennarth Petersson's book. Hope it's helpful. Rob

Thanks gsdpic. And welcome to the build.

Thanks Chris I mentioned above that the copper plates provided had fairly significant marking across each of the sheets. I was reasonably confident it would come off, but didn't want to leave it until I came to the point of wanting to install them just in case I was wrong. Well, here are the results of my test... 1. The whole sheet before testing... (as it came in the box) I cut out one tile to experiment on from the centre of the worst marking. Here's a close-up... 2. Test one: Acetone (nail-varnish remover) The first attempt to remove the marks was with acetone. Despite bathing the tile in the acetone (in a sealed container for about five minutes) and then scrubbing it with a toothbrush, this seemed to have absolutely no effect. The tile ended up looking precisely as it started, when compared to the sheet it had come from. 3. Test two: neat Lemon juice The second attempt was using neat lemon juice... and scrubbing gently with a toothbrush. (The detail on the etching is so fine, it shreds tissue paper, and I was concerned I'd damage the tiles) This method provided almost instant results. Within 20 seconds the tile was completely shiny, as I would hope - all marking entirely gone. I was conscious that the active ingredient is citric acid, so I rinsed the tile afterwards in plenty of water to remove the acid. Here's the tile on it's own... And in situ to compare to the rest of the sheet... And... I'm much more confident it's all going to be fine now, so I can pack it all away and concentrate on Ethalion Take care, and a very happy Christmas to you all! Rob Update: Zoran from MarisStella has helpfully pointed out the putting the sheet into Coca Cola for a few seconds, and then rinsing with clean water will clean the copper well, too. Thanks Zoran

That's very generous of you, thank you. I hope I can do it justice, but I'm relishing the challenge.

You're very welcome Jason. As I said, it might be a few weeks before I really get going on this build, as I must finish Ethalion In the meantime, here's some pictures of what you get in the kit: In the shot below, the laser cut sheets are all stacked up - there are LOADS of them, all of which look beautifully cut. I figured I wouldn't give anyone looking to knock off this kit a head start, but they look good! A nice uniform colour to the walnut, too, which will help as we move ahead. Note as well, bottom right are the pre-sewn sails - again the sewing is very fine, but I haven't had the material out of the pack yet... I want to keep it clean. I've only done sails out of tissue before, but I was pleased with that effect. When the time comes, I shall offer them up against each other and see which I feel will give the better outcome. Nice to have the option, though, and this model WILL be fully rigged with sails unfurled. You can see the black marking on the copper plates - this marking is on each of the numerous sheets. I'm not too worried about this. I figure when the time comes I can get it clean with some acetone. We'll see. And finally the plans... and plans... and plans... all beautifully detailed. Again, I don't want to give anyone wanting to copy the kit a headstart, so I haven't shown the contents here. Doubtless snippets will appear as the build progresses. I've never seen such detailed plans on a kit. They really are lovely, so I suspect this aspect of the build will be an absolute pleasure. I'm a sucker for a nice plan! Finally, a picture of the book by Gustave Rathe, grandson of one of the people onboard the Barque when she sank. I'm looking forward to reading this in preparation for the build. That's it for now until I finish Ethalion Happy building! Rob p.s. my ten-year-old son has just demonstrated he can climb inside the box this kit was delivered in and the lid pretty much closes.... Are my builds getting over-ambitious?!?!

Thanks Tim, Yes, the knots are clove hitches. At first I always have the following picture next to me while I'm tying them otherwise I get confused. By the time I'm half way up the first shroud, I pretty much have it under my belt again and I can get into the rhythm. When it's right, you get one line across the front, and two across the back. It looks really nice Tweezers are a must, and after each row, I put on watered down PVA. I go up the sections from bottom to top, every other line, and then go back the next day and fill in the other lines. As I go, I watch to see if the shrouds are being pulled out of line (using pencil marks on the paper behind, made when i put in the guides), and then gently pull the lines (which at that point still have some spare on either end) to fix it. Once the whole shroud is done, that's when I go back and cut off the 5mm or so I've left on each end of each line. I've learned to leave that little bit, as on Pickle, I didn't, and occasionally I'd undo work I'd done earlier, much to my frustration.