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scrubbyj427

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Everything posted by scrubbyj427

  1. scrubbyj427
    This is really nice work Chuck, anything I’ve built in the past has been a dismal failure when it comes to this part. A quick eye test has always indicated that the crew will fall through the grates.
  2. scrubbyj427
    I can attest to using the head on a similar sized vessel, in the bow... it’s not fun
  3. scrubbyj427
    Just incredible work!
  4. scrubbyj427
    Very well done!
  5. scrubbyj427
    Your cheerful is looking good Fred. The decking and furniture are coming together very well. Now take care of those eyes so you can get back to work!! JJ
  6. scrubbyj427
    I’m speechless. Just amazing work!
  7. scrubbyj427
    Wow! Awesome work!
  8. scrubbyj427
    Beautiful work!
  9. scrubbyj427
    This is just amazing work!
  10. scrubbyj427
    Wow! Just incredible work! Following with much interest.
  11. scrubbyj427
    She’s looking great Rusty! Take care of that Covid, I hear model building is the best remedy.
  12. scrubbyj427
    Looks good Kevin, this is a great project, you don’t see many HMHS Britannic models. I’ve been very tempted to do an Olympic 1911 with this kit. Are you planing to do all the modifications to her promenade deck windows as well as B deck? I wonder if the aftermarket has anything to offer yet. Britannic was quite different from her two sisters
  13. scrubbyj427
    The piece you are tying to make will be almost impossible to cut as a solid at those angles/curve. The best way is to extrude your cutting curve as a surface along a perpendicular line or two lines, for example draw a perpendicular curve at the beginning and end of the cut and extrude the cutting surface “along two curves”, then simply split the open surface into two parts, copy the cutting plane and trim it at each end of the open surfaces to close the part. In regards to cnc cutting or even laser cutting, I think it is possible with a curve, im exploring this same problem with a design I am working on currently. You can see below that like your keel piece, I also had to cut on a curve, all the pieces are perpendicular to the camber. You can see the complexity of the cambered beams that require scarf joints as well as camber. If these beams were flat then it would be easy, however they are not, two options are one, to cut them flat and individually camber/bend each piece... or pre camber the subject wood board and laser cut. My theory is that if the wood to be cut is already curved (cambered deck beams in my case) then perhaps the router or laser can be programmed high enough (at top of camber/curve) to cut, yet not too high to miss the bottom of the curve, then what you are trying to accomplish is possible. I hope that made some sense...
  14. scrubbyj427
    Wow! Wonderful work!
  15. scrubbyj427
    Wonderful work. So good to see an early rendition of victory.
  16. scrubbyj427
    Brilliant! I love where this is going. 🍿
  17. scrubbyj427
    It would seem that they are the experts over there, with all the new designs and innovation freely flowing to the market.
  18. scrubbyj427
    Welcome to MSW! Awesome work. Don’t see that version of victory often.
  19. scrubbyj427
    Nice work Glenn. Well done on the moldings.
  20. scrubbyj427
    Excellent news! I will be building this at some point. Just love this project!
  21. scrubbyj427
    Looks great Fred.. that boxwood kit was an excellent choice, your planking looks spot on.
  22. scrubbyj427
    Looks really good Steve, well done!
  23. scrubbyj427
    Great looking drawings Chris!
  24. scrubbyj427
    That would be some advanced lighting effects. I think after a bit of grog they may start to spiral on their own! Lol
  25. scrubbyj427
    I’ve been wondering where you went, Fred. I’ve patiently been watching for an update on your winnie. Glad to see you building again, your cheerful is looking great.

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