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scrubbyj427

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Everything posted by scrubbyj427

  1. That looks like a great idea for lining up the frames. What did you use to ensure the keel is perpendicular to the board?
  2. So here’s a few shots in very dim light. I need to start using a real camera, this iPhone just doesn’t capture what it really looks like, they are much warmer and not nearly as bright as the camera shows. Very happy with the LED’s that I went with, this will display very well and lifelike when complete.
  3. Been slowly plugging away at chapter 7. I’ve got my first set of lamps in, now I can begin working my way forward to complete chapter 7. I’ve been building some fittings, including the pumps and the stove and I started on the forward guns in anticipation of chapter 8. I’ve also got the first bulkhead installed and after I complete a few more sets of lamps I can move on to the next bulkhead. Lots of care has been taken to make the electrical element as discrete as possible, I have been thinking of how to accomplish this for months and I decided on a simple system of carving a small channel into the underside of the beam and gently running the wire with some pva to secure it. The natural beams will be the hardest, as soon as I hit the red ones I can begin to fill the channel and smooth it out and simply paint it again. Big thank you to Gabe @Gabek for his assistance with the lamp printing, the resin printer captured the 3D model wonderfully. These are very small pieces and require some assembly work as well as an opaque glazing. I’m happy with the results. JJ
  4. Will hobbymill mill the wood to your desired thickness? I would inquire to see if they also offer a lumber package for the Winchelsea. I believe the owner of hobbymill.eu is also a MSW member.
  5. You can rip as you go or buy the completed wood package . I just cut my wood as I needed it. Chuck outlines pretty clearly what thickness you will need, If you’re cutting your own. http://www.modelerssawmill.com/wood-packages.php
  6. Joe, im Not sure what kind of glue you are using but I found the mistakes I made early on were easy to correct by using some denatured alcohol to soften the PVA and move/adjust pieces, in fact I think I even encountered a similar problem on my framing as you are experiencing, I just softened the glue and made adjustments. Rebuild your transom frames and glue back into the slots, set your angles with a jig and let set. This is a recoverable problem.
  7. Is there a Dutch or similar equivalent to the NMM that offers plans like this? This is my next direction after my current projects.
  8. Just awesome! Are you going to start building a prototype from wood? Would love to see this develop further.
  9. Is there a wreck that has been discovered? I am also dying to know if she was plastered with carvings like Vasa? This is proving to be an interesting subject, no doubt.
  10. Good work Joe, looks just as it should. Some advice for fairing the frames, take the drawing Chuck posted in post #51 and cut it out and glue it lightly to the frames to double check and also for fairing the two outer frames. Worked well for me and a little bit of alcohol will take it right off with minimal mess. JJ
  11. Wonderful work! You sure are making progress quickly. Was this a well documented ship with much material available?
  12. What program is this in? I’m trying to learn Zbrush right now and wow, what a learning curve involved. Excellent work there
  13. Looking forward to seeing some progress on you Winnie. I used a precut piece of MDF from home depot. It was 12”X 48” and I think I just cut 8” off but it worked well. Welcome to the group Gary. JJ
  14. Lovely work. It looks like you’re working in Rhino using the sketch rendering feature? Looks so crisp.
  15. Definitely level with the deck, I missed that on mine and had to straighten/carve them out late in the game in order to finish out the window frames. If you look way ahead to chapter five, pg.8 you will get a better idea of what’s to come.
  16. This is a very interesting subject, when do you plan to start building? I was going to build the Vasa again.. next but this has my attention.
  17. Oh Washington or North Carolina are two of my favorites. Probably my first battleship model as a kid was North Carolina, i would love to build her in 1/96 or even 1/48. I agree on the dreadnaught as well. Ahh too many models and never enough time.
  18. Apologies for my poor grammar but yes, I meant the Yamato’s. I wish I could find the article I read that compares the two but you pretty much summarized it. Nevertheless, I find both classes of battleships fascinating and worthy of the attention they receive. I’ve been casually looking at building a Yamato for years, not sure if I want to build Musashi or Yamato but I’m leaning towards Musashi. These 1/200 kits with all their PE are very very tempting but my heart tells me that the fleet scale 1/96 is the direction I need to go, with where these 1/200 kits are with all the add ons and details they actually aren’t far off in price between the two sizes.
  19. I read somewhere that the Iowa’s were slightly advanced in their targeting and therefore more accurate than the Yamato and musashi and if I remember correctly they had a slight advantage in range. But there is no doubt they were the most powerful battleships ever built, it was also quite a task to finally get them to go down according to us navy pilots.
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