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Everything posted by scrubbyj427
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	I cut most of my wood thicker than 3/64, for almost the whole Winnie project and I did for the same reason, so I had lots of room to sand. It has bit me a few times but it’s helped more than hindered. It should produce a nice cabin floor when complete. I would recommend leaving the cabin floor just a bit high where the deck planks meet so you can sand it flush to the planks, or you could go the other way around and since you didn’t add paint like I did, you won’t have to worry about sanding too far.
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- winchelsea
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	That looks really nice and crisp. Well done!
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- winchelsea
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	Thanks Glenn. I’ve been experimenting with lighting. I’ve just been holding my work lamp above until it looks good. Trying to keep a dark background. My photography has been in need of improvement for awhile now lol. Thank you Gus! Thank you James! I’m enjoying watching your Winnie begin to progress.
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	That looks really good Mike! Well done.
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- winchelsea
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	And that concludes chapter 8, opening chapter 9 as I write this, forward progress will begin tomorrow. I did the same for 8 as chapter 7 with the deck beams and all the knees. Had to finagle the stove in so I could block sand all the beams down fair and make a gigantic mess but it all worked out. One more gun to rig for this chapter and then I’ll finish remaining four after chapter 9. And no more lights! Thanks for stopping by. JJ
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	Thanks Gabe. I finally got them all installed and that design worked perfectly.
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	Congratulations Jim, she looks great. The figures add a whole new layer to the model and the copper looks really good. The crew really gives perspective to the size of Winnie. Looking forward to seeing how you display her. JJ
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- winchelsea
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	You could also take sections through your butt lines and then offset each one to the thickness you want the frame (in profile view) and then proceed to build the new frames around those lines as a reference. Also as @Richard Dunn mentioned, offsetting by the outer surface of the frames and creating a solid from that would be beneficial. The issue is that the inner hull and outer hull are shaped differently. Have you tried to just offset your hull surface by itself and see how that results? For my model I just used offsets from the hull surface at the thickness I wanted for the frames and extruded solids so the tops of the frames are as fair as the outside. These were always taken from the higher side of the hull, for example, in the bow I would take the section from the fwd facing side and extrude aft and the opposite in the stern. This allows for proper sanding. In rhino you would do the same but run you spline that you would use to create planks, from the highest side of the frame to the next highest one, slicing right through the part that would be sanded… if that makes any sense.
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				HMS Euryalus 1803 by rlb - 1:48 scale
scrubbyj427 replied to rlb's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1801 - 1850
Very nice work Ron, it’s coming along very well!- 122 replies
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- Euryalus
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	Beautiful job Glenn! Well done! And that angle cutter… wow! I need that for sure.
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- winchelsea
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	Beautiful work Fred! Those guns look great! I hope it’s motivating you to do the same to your Winnie.
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- Cheerful
 - Syren Ship Model Company
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	Congratulations Stuglo! Well done. She looks great! Been great following along.
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